Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 1, 2013 9:42:39 GMT -5
I just received my XPR-5 but cannot connect it to the wall outlet because I don't have a 20 amp circuit. My new house won't be ready for a few months (getting 20 amp circuits installed) so I'm renting a house right now so I can't install a dedicated 20 amp circuit so what do you guys recommend or suggest I do?
|
|
|
Post by creimes on May 1, 2013 9:53:20 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by audiophill on May 1, 2013 9:59:47 GMT -5
You can buy a cmx-2 and use that! No harm in having extra filtering and you can still use it in your new home, plus it looks great and has a fantastic build quality to it!
|
|
|
Post by GreenKiwi on May 1, 2013 12:26:33 GMT -5
I wonder if its better to have something like that. It like this with a 15a protector built in. www.zzounds.com/item--FURADP1520BI guess in theory your circuit breaker should trip if you go over 15a on the circuit.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 1, 2013 13:16:58 GMT -5
Thanks guys, appreciate the info.
|
|
|
Post by ocezam on May 1, 2013 13:44:07 GMT -5
I wonder if its better to have something like that. It like this with a 15a protector built in. www.zzounds.com/item--FURADP1520BI guess in theory your circuit breaker should trip if you go over 15a on the circuit. In theory? That's what it's there for. It's not theoretical. ...
|
|
|
Post by phatfos1 on May 1, 2013 13:46:04 GMT -5
Mamba24 this is the better option for your needs www.amazon.com/Furman-ADP-1520B-Power-Adapter-Black/dp/B0063R8OPC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367433645&sr=8-1&keywords=Furman+20amp+converterI was in a similar predicament and this is what Dan Laufman (CEO of Emotiva) recommended. I run inefficient speakers 88db and even at VERY high SPL (to the point that it's uncomfortable) I don't trip this breaker or the main. I get a lot of the blue lights glow too! And just in case you did get to the point of tripping a breaker this model has a breaker built it which makes it a lot easier to reset (just make sure you get the "B" model as Furman told me that the "A" does not have the breaker and there are still a lot of those floating around the web for sale. PS The amp is amazing. Best addition to my home theater to date. Have fun!!
|
|
|
Post by GreenKiwi on May 1, 2013 15:12:43 GMT -5
I wonder if its better to have something like that. It like this with a 15a protector built in. www.zzounds.com/item--FURADP1520BI guess in theory your circuit breaker should trip if you go over 15a on the circuit. In theory? That's what it's there for. It's not theoretical. ... Yeah. I know that they should all work. I guess it's the do you put the check before or after all the wiring. Guess it shouldn't really matter. So then you should never need a device like that. Or do they trip faster and therefore protect your circuit better.
|
|
|
Post by edoggrc51 on May 1, 2013 15:49:00 GMT -5
Those adapters will work just fine. But if you cant find one locally and dont feel like waiting on shipping, you just pick up a standard 20amp outlet plug at your local home improvement store. Thats what i did for both of my XPR-1's and ive had ZERO problems.
|
|
|
Post by deltadube on May 1, 2013 22:47:26 GMT -5
nothing like checking your local building codes
maybe the insurance wont pay...
its the in wall wire thats going to heat up and burn down the house...
house burn on local news with great tunes being heard!!!
cheers
|
|
|
Post by AudioHTIT on May 1, 2013 23:51:21 GMT -5
As long as the breaker matches the wiring you're good, no one has suggested anything dangerous ... well swapping a receptacle without turning off the power wouldn't be safe.
|
|
|
Post by ocezam on May 2, 2013 7:31:26 GMT -5
Those adapters will work just fine. But if you cant find one locally and dont feel like waiting on shipping, you just pick up a standard 20amp outlet plug at your local home improvement store. Thats what i did for both of my XPR-1's and ive had ZERO problems. As long as the breaker matches the wiring you're good, no one has suggested anything dangerous ... well swapping a receptacle without turning off the power wouldn't be safe. Exactly. It's not code, but it's not unsafe. Increasing the breaker amperage WOULD be unsafe. ...
|
|
bootman
Emo VIPs
Typing useless posts on internet forums....
Posts: 9,358
|
Post by bootman on May 3, 2013 9:49:18 GMT -5
nothing like checking your local building codes maybe the insurance wont pay... its the in wall wire thats going to heat up and burn down the house... house burn on local news with great tunes being heard!!! cheers 14ga copper wire is rated for 15A. If that is what the breaker is also then what is the issue again? Now if you are running aluminum wire chances are you have bigger issues than this.
|
|
|
Post by jevans64 on May 4, 2013 0:41:17 GMT -5
I've seen construction from the mid-1980's to around 2003, when they switched to color-coded NM-B ( commonly called Romex for the company that patented and manufactured the wire ), that will have 12 gauge white NM but use 15 amp breakers and receptacles. The white sheath should be marked 12 AWG every 24 to 36 inches if you can gain access to the wire either in an attic or at the breaker box. If you have yellow-coded Romex, then you are golden for 20 amps. I can tell the gauge of a wire by looking at it but a stripping tool can be used to gauge the wire as well. If the wire is 12 gauge full copper, then it is safe to swap out the breaker and receptacle with 20 amp equivalents. IF your wire is copper-clad or aluminum then the amperage is reduced by one factor -- 12 gauge = 15 amp, 14 gauge = 12 amp. Shouldn't be more than $12 total for both parts unless you spring for a GFCI TR receptacle. Those are only code for bathrooms and kitchen. The older black button / red button GFCI are no longer code compliant.
|
|
|
Post by deltadube on May 4, 2013 1:19:19 GMT -5
I've seen construction from the mid-1980's to around 2003, when they switched to color-coded NM-B ( commonly called Romex for the company that patented and manufactured the wire ), that will have 12 gauge white NM but use 15 amp breakers and receptacles. The white sheath should be marked 12 AWG every 24 to 36 inches if you can gain access to the wire either in an attic or at the breaker box. If you have yellow-coded Romex, then you are golden for 20 amps. I can tell the gauge of a wire by looking at it but a stripping tool can be used to gauge the wire as well. If the wire is 12 gauge full copper, then it is safe to swap out the breaker and receptacle with 20 amp equivalents. IF your wire is copper-clad or aluminum then the amperage is reduced by one factor -- 12 gauge = 15 amp, 14 gauge = 12 amp. Shouldn't be more than $12 total for both parts unless you spring for a GFCI TR receptacle. Those are only code for bathrooms and kitchen. The older black button / red button GFCI are no longer code compliant. im using 14 gauge and 15 amp breakers in my house.. code.. all runs are under 40 ft.. what if your run is 150 ft? cheers.
|
|
|
Post by Dan Laufman on May 4, 2013 9:06:42 GMT -5
Hi guys, As I've said several times before, we use the 20 amp style connector because we must pass CE testing and the 15 amp style is not adequate for the currents that can be drawn during compliance testing. The use of the plug adapters is completely safe in a house with normal wiring.
But remember, you are not running load banks with continuous sine wave testing at home. You are playing movies and listening to music. The duty cycle is far less demanding.
Now, if you want to, and especially if you have several large amplifiers in the system, you should consider running a dedicated 20 amp feed, but the reality is that it is not really necessary for most humans.
The XPR's can ask for large power peaks, but the average home power wiring is usually quite adequate and completely safe. The great thing about home circuits is they are designed to allow brief high current spikes, but long term overloads (the type that cause the house wiring to heat up and pose a safety risk) are well protected by your homes circuit breakers.
There are a few of you out there that can exceed the capabilities of any power source, but we're talking about normal people at the moment.
My rule is this. Try it. If you EVER trip the breaker, upgrade the service. 99+ % of you will never have to do this. Cheers, Big Dan
|
|
|
Post by monkumonku on May 4, 2013 9:30:25 GMT -5
Hi guys, As I've said several times before, we use the 20 amp style connector because we must pass CE testing and the 15 amp style is not adequate for the currents that can be drawn during compliance testing. The use of the plug adapters is completely safe in a house with normal wiring. But remember, you are not running load banks with continuous sine wave testing at home. You are playing movies and listening to music. The duty cycle is far less demanding. Now, if you want to, and especially if you have several large amplifiers in the system, you should consider running a dedicated 20 amp feed, but the reality is that it is not really necessary for most humans. The XPR's can ask for large power peaks, but the average home power wiring is usually quite adequate and completely safe. The great thing about home circuits is they are designed to allow brief high current spikes, but long term overloads (the type that cause the house wiring to heat up and pose a safety risk) are well protected by your homes circuit breakers. There are a few of you out there that can exceed the capabilities of any power source, but we're talking about normal people at the moment.My rule is this. Try it. If you EVER trip the breaker, upgrade the service. 99+ % of you will never have to do this. Cheers, Big Dan But remember, you're saying this to the Lounge members so does the part in red really apply? ;D
|
|
|
Post by roadrunner on May 4, 2013 17:21:09 GMT -5
Dan, Good advice, but keep in mind the Lounge Members are audio nuts, and as such are NOT normal human beings. ;D ;D You give us an inch and we will take a mile.
|
|
|
Post by Porscheguy on May 4, 2013 18:02:32 GMT -5
I'm running everything in my sig on one 15 amp circuit. Not even a hint of an issue.....
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 4, 2013 18:39:49 GMT -5
Spend $5, get a 20 amp plug and swap them out. You'll still only have 15a on that line but you'll be able to plug in you amp. It's not against code to do so, as long as you still have the 15A breaker, all is great.
Others have already stated that exact same advise because it's the best advise.
|
|