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Post by davidl81 on Mar 19, 2022 7:52:03 GMT -5
You USE your camera. I’m not a photographer - the only reason I got my SLR was to do macro work for eBay sales. Now that I can accomplish the photos I need with an iPhone, I going to sell my SLR equipment. Looking at the watch inventory, it’s also time to clean house there… If you need someone to take that Breitling off of your hans let me know lol. |
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Post by Boomzilla on Mar 19, 2022 8:26:35 GMT -5
On eBay starting tomorrow.
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Post by brutiarti on Mar 19, 2022 10:50:41 GMT -5
On eBay starting tomorrow. Make sure that you have a certificate of authenticity. You don’t want a buyer claiming that is not original if it is the real thing. |
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Post by Boomzilla on Mar 19, 2022 12:00:52 GMT -5
Make sure that you have a certificate of authenticity. You don’t want a buyer claiming that is not original if it is the real thing. For watches that sell for >$2,000, eBay authenticates for free (free service to BOTH the buyer and the seller). For watches that sell for <$2,000 (as mine will), then either the seller has to get such a certificate, or trust the buyer to be honest. I once sold a Rolex on eBay and the buyer claimed that I'd sold him a fake. I explained that my local watch shop had seen the watch prior to me listing it on eBay. The buyer was welcome to return the watch, and that before opening the return, I'd have the same jeweler examine what was returned. If what was returned differed from what I'd sold, I'd file a felony mail fraud case against the buyer. Never heard from him again... I've never obtained a "certificate of authenticity" for a watch. Where would one get such a thing, and at what cost? Unless there's a formal certification, one is just getting a letter from a jeweler that wouldn't be worth the paper it was written on. What proof could the seller offer that the certifying jeweler was competent (or honest)? |
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Post by brutiarti on Mar 19, 2022 17:39:54 GMT -5
Make sure that you have a certificate of authenticity. You don’t want a buyer claiming that is not original if it is the real thing. For watches that sell for >$2,000, eBay authenticates for free (free service to BOTH the buyer and the seller). For watches that sell for <$2,000 (as mine will), then either the seller has to get such a certificate, or trust the buyer to be honest. I once sold a Rolex on eBay and the buyer claimed that I'd sold him a fake. I explained that my local watch shop had seen the watch prior to me listing it on eBay. The buyer was welcome to return the watch, and that before opening the return, I'd have the same jeweler examine what was returned. If what was returned differed from what I'd sold, I'd file a felony mail fraud case against the buyer. Never heard from him again... I've never obtained a "certificate of authenticity" for a watch. Where would one get such a thing, and at what cost? Unless there's a formal certification, one is just getting a letter from a jeweler that wouldn't be worth the paper it was written on. What proof could the seller offer that the certifying jeweler was competent (or honest)? Probably you can send the watch to the manufacturer for maintance and if they refuse to do it, it is fake. |
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Post by leonski on Mar 19, 2022 17:45:47 GMT -5
Authentic May NOT be the 'final answer'.
Nikon, for example, will NOT service Grey Market lenses or camera bodies. USA market ONLY if you are in the US.
Even IF what you are trying to get fixed is original and authentic NIKON. Even if otherwise legally purchased from a 'real' source.
I Imagine that Seiko might be the same. I have an Orange Monster dive watch bought overseas. The DAY part of the Day / Date is double language.
You can choose either Arabic OR English. This model was NOT sold in the USA and might not be serviced IF I send it to Seiko......
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Post by Boomzilla on Mar 19, 2022 19:45:57 GMT -5
The local watch shop has already told me (verbally) that my Breitling is authentic. Not that I needed their opinion - I wouldn't have bought it if I wasn't convinced that it was real. I did contact the licensed distributor for Breitling asking if they did such authentications. I'll have to wait till next week for their reply, though.
My gut feeling is that no, the Breitling dealer doesn't want to bother with used goods. They want you to buy a new Breitling. I've also tried to see if eBay offers their authentication service for a fee. So far as I can tell, no.
There are commercial authentication places on the internet, but what credibility they might have with a dishonest buyer is debatable.
Ultimately, I suspect that I'll have but two choices:
1. Trust the buyer to be honest or
2. Sell locally for whatever the market will bear
Oh well...
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Post by leonski on Mar 19, 2022 23:10:16 GMT -5
Authentic is NOT the issue, at least from the manufacturers point of view. REAL Nikon camera gear NOT INTENDED to be sold in the US Market is not eligible to be serviced by Nikon USA service. Even though it is quite 'authentic' and made in the same run as USA destined equipment. Some kind of ID number is INSIDE the lens, maybe behind the front element or  ?? Personally? I think that STINKS. But Nikon, and presumably Breitling and maybe others, will act to protect the 'local' market in whatever country.... So if my Seiko Orange Monster, in NO WAY and 'exotic' or 'collectible' watch needs service? I may end up back in DOHA where it was purchased! That Breitling you bought? VERY nice indeed. BTW? I bought a Fake Seiko once. I know it was fake going in, but wanted the style. I could see a dial problem easily. But too bad, it only worked about 3 days.......PHOOF! |
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Post by Boomzilla on Mar 20, 2022 21:21:17 GMT -5
Authenticity is not the issue. Dishonest buyers are. Historically:
A buyer would purchase a watch, claim it was fake, receive a refund, and then return a replica.
In other cases, the buyer would remove the original movement, substitute a Chinese movement, and then return the watch.
It got so bad that eBay implemented their own, free verification service. Any watch selling on eBay for $2,000 or more goes to eBay’s authentication service before delivery. This protects both the buyer and the seller, but isn’t available (so far as I’ve been able to tell) for less expensive watches.
On another topic…. Magnepan seems poised to (finally) introduce their 30.7 “Condo” speakers at the April 22 AXPONA show. The speakers will be Magnepan’s attempt to offer a “flagship” model intended to work in smaller areas. Supposedly, each speaker will have four 6.5 inch dynamic woofers on a triangular open baffle, a one-foot-wide Maggie panel, and a DSP box to glue the two together (sonically, not physically).
The dealers who previewed the thing say it drinks current - so much so that Magnepan is coming out with their own amp. My question - what new / used amps would be a good match? Brands mentioned by dealers included Naim, Parasound, Bryson, & Krell. I was thinking HPA-1 or XPA-1…. Your thoughts?
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Post by leonski on Mar 21, 2022 0:09:42 GMT -5
The reason I mentioned authentic is in reaction to you using that word 4x or 5x in you post.......
I think that it would be neat to offer such a service for a fee on watches between 2000$ and down to maybe 400$. Flat fee? Percentage deal?
OK? I've gone the expense time / trouble to swap movements from a Brietling and it is now JUNK. Now What?
As for an amp for Maggies? Apparently not tube. Pass would work....in higher powers. OR something from years back Krell. Whatever amp was used for the 1ohm Scintilla would
presumably work for these new Maggies......
At some point, higher sensitivity speakers look Better and Better. Less amp. Less space. Easier electric bill. Some 95db (real....not 99db rated) Klipsch with 70 a side sure look good
against more power hungry 85db (or lower) Maggies requirirng 10x the power for the same......'effect'? A 1400 watt amp would require its OWN 20 amp breaker.....And the cost of the AMP ALONE
would pay for a fine weekend for two in any resort in the western US......Except Sedona.....as fi I would go THERE on a bet.
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Post by audiobill on Mar 21, 2022 10:27:18 GMT -5
I’ve found that all the talk about massive current needs for Maggies is nonsense…,in my 14.400 cu ft room anything from 75 tube watts to 450 solid state does just fine with my Maggie 3.6/r speakers…..
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Post by marcl on Mar 21, 2022 11:05:27 GMT -5
I’ve found that all the talk about massive current needs for Maggies is nonsense…,in my 14.400 cu ft room anything from 75 tube watts to 450 solid state does just fine with my Maggie 3.6/r speakers….. Maybe the issue is not that they sound bad with low power, but that they can sound better with higher power. And depending on the music. My 3.7s sounded great with 300W, and distinctly better (especially the bass) with 700W. My LRS sound great with a 100W Yamaha receiver in the bedroom. But I bet they'd sound even better with the high power amp in the big room. But however you play them ... they do sound great! |
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Post by Boomzilla on Mar 21, 2022 13:17:46 GMT -5
Watts are cheap. Current, less so.
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Post by leonski on Mar 21, 2022 14:17:08 GMT -5
Watts are cheap. Current, less so. How could you get a 500 watt amp with only say........1 amp? That would be 500 volts.....or my math is wacky. And THAT would pop every capacitor in nearly any crossover EVER made...... P/I = E High Current (like 40 amps....or whatever) is ALSO a Red Herring. Such gigantic current ratings are at some VERY low voltage. If you were to try 40 amps at say.......50 volts? You'd be well into the Destruction Zone for output devices..... I once made 'do' with 80x2 4 ohm watts. With my MG-1 panels........but it WAS better / louder ability after I bought 'The Cube'...... The main reason is what YOU want. These days? I make do with 2x200 per panel BUT never stress anything OR annoy the neighbors. And for SURE! Watts have never been cheaper. I measure in 'Dollars Per Watt'.....But do NOT forget that 'Better Watts are STILL Better'....... And that depends in no small part on the speaker. A highly reactive load or something with a gigantic impedance dip.......for example. |
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Post by Boomzilla on Mar 21, 2022 20:45:04 GMT -5
Apogee (and Thiel, and Carver) are mostly out of the speaker business. The days of cowboy impedances and reactivities in speakers are (mostly) a thing of the past. Most speaker designers today, with fewer and fewer exceptions, design using the following assumptions:
1. Their speakers must tolerate being driven by a gutless AVR without blowing up the amp. Note that the speakers need not sound their BEST that way, but they must at least tolerate it. This means NO impedance dips much below 4 Ohms (and even those in VERY narrow frequency bands), a “nominal” impedance rating of about 6 ohms, and a sensitivity of at least 89-92 dB/1W/1m. Almost ALL “modern” speakers are designed like this.
2. Their speakers need not have much bass response, because 90% plus of users will be using the speakers with a subwoofer.
3. The majority of potential speaker buyers will buy based on branding (I’ve got the “Unobtainium” brand center speaker, so I’ll need the same brand of main speakers too!). Most buyers also equate price with performance, whether such a correlation exists or not (and often it doesn’t).
Now manufacturers save a TON of $$$ designing speakers like this, and you might assume that some of those savings would be reflected in retail prices. You’d be wrong. That’s why there’s still a huge demand for vintage speakers. They’re VERY high value for the money.
Boom
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Post by leonski on Mar 22, 2022 2:12:47 GMT -5
QUICK!
Send me a pair of perfect condition ORIGINAL LARGE ADVENT!
But I dont' know that I totally agree. I see a huge segment following the speaker design rule YOU cite. And it is both competitive and many to choose from.
But the OTHER half of the market is still alive and well....with speaker not necessarily 'friendly' to the AVR. most Maggies come to mind.
I'm not current on most others, but B&W had a reputaton for being Unfriendly to some amps and you listed the OTHERS, no longer made. I saw a crossover from a Thiel speaker and it
was big enough to SURF on......
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KeithL
Administrator 
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Post by KeithL on Mar 22, 2022 10:26:32 GMT -5
I had the Large Advents back in the day... and I loved them... real wood veneer and everything (the deluxe version). But I had a chance to play with a pair about twenty years ago and wasn't quite so impressed... And, thinking back, they always had good bass, acceptable but not especially extended treble, but midrange was never their strong point. (The "orange peel" covered a wide range of frequencies reasonably well but wasn't that great as a midrange.) I would also mention that you are quite unlikely to find a pair in "original condition". The woofers had foam edges - which have almost certainly disintegrated long ago - and had to be redone. (And the original woofers were rather special... so you really need to replace the foam... since it's questionable whether you could find a perfect replacement.) QUICK! Send me a pair of perfect condition ORIGINAL LARGE ADVENT! But I dont' know that I totally agree. I see a huge segment following the speaker design rule YOU cite. And it is both competitive and many to choose from. But the OTHER half of the market is still alive and well....with speaker not necessarily 'friendly' to the AVR. most Maggies come to mind. I'm not current on most others, but B&W had a reputaton for being Unfriendly to some amps and you listed the OTHERS, no longer made. I saw a crossover from a Thiel speaker and it was big enough to SURF on...... |
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Post by marcl on Mar 22, 2022 10:43:55 GMT -5
I had the Large Advents back in the day... and I loved them... real wood veneer and everything (the deluxe version). But I had a chance to play with a pair about twenty years ago and wasn't quite so impressed... And, thinking back, they always had good bass, acceptable but not especially extended treble, but midrange was never their strong point. (The "orange peel" covered a wide range of frequencies reasonably well but wasn't that great as a midrange.) I would also mention that you are quite unlikely to find a pair in "original condition". The woofers had foam edges - which have almost certainly disintegrated long ago - and had to be redone. (And the original woofers were rather special... so you really need to replace the foam... since it's questionable whether you could find a perfect replacement.) QUICK! Send me a pair of perfect condition ORIGINAL LARGE ADVENT! But I dont' know that I totally agree. I see a huge segment following the speaker design rule YOU cite. And it is both competitive and many to choose from. But the OTHER half of the market is still alive and well....with speaker not necessarily 'friendly' to the AVR. most Maggies come to mind. I'm not current on most others, but B&W had a reputaton for being Unfriendly to some amps and you listed the OTHERS, no longer made. I saw a crossover from a Thiel speaker and it was big enough to SURF on...... I have a pair of "The Smaller" that I bought 40 years ago to use as surrounds. The foam rotted about 15 years ago and I replaced them with more suitable surrounds. But maybe 6-7 years ago I got a re-foam kit - since it is impossible to find an exact replacement for the 9" woofer - and the project went very well. They sound great, especially in the bass, but I would agree that the midrange is the weak point. They were in the bedroom where I also had a pair of Dynaco A25's from the mid 70's. Comparing the two, the Dynaco went a bit lower in the bass but the Advent sounded better overall. And as of last summer ... they are replaced by the Magnepan LRS which of course is a bit lacking at the very low 30-50Hz end .... but sounds amazingly great in every other respect. I do need to get busy and turn those Advents and Dynacos into some cash ... might at least pay for half the LRS. |
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KeithL
Administrator
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Post by KeithL on Mar 22, 2022 10:50:33 GMT -5
From what I've heard it is more specifically that Nikon USA will not service Nikon products issued for sale in other countries.
From Nikon's page:
"Nikon Inc. USA and Nikon Authorized Dealers won’t provide technical support, repair or warranty service on Gray Market products.
If you suspect you may have purchased a Gray Market Nikon product, please contact the seller or importer for warranty and
service information as well as software updates and downloads. Refer to the seller or the warranty cards included with your
product for service contact information."
(That is not the same as saying that you cannot get service if you ship those products back to the country in which they were intended for sale.)
It's basically Nikon USA saying "don't call US if you didn't buy it from US or one of OUR dealers". (And, to be fair, this is not all that unusual for companies who sell products internationally, and sell different versions in different countries.)
Also, apparently, many reputable dealers sell both versions - and cover the non-USA versions with their own warranty... But, yes, always read the fine print on something like that.
Incidentally... if you really want to find out where a Nikon lens was manufactured and when:
Authentic May NOT be the 'final answer'. Nikon, for example, will NOT service Grey Market lenses or camera bodies. USA market ONLY if you are in the US. Even IF what you are trying to get fixed is original and authentic NIKON. Even if otherwise legally purchased from a 'real' source. I Imagine that Seiko might be the same. I have an Orange Monster dive watch bought overseas. The DAY part of the Day / Date is double language. You can choose either Arabic OR English. This model was NOT sold in the USA and might not be serviced IF I send it to Seiko...... |
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Post by leonski on Mar 22, 2022 17:15:46 GMT -5
Nikon has ALSO cut off 'aftermarket' guys from the spare parts chain. At one point you could get
nearly ANY pro-levle SLR serviced as aftermarket. Now? You better have a source of parts.
Some older camera bodies are becoming a little valuable since a FEW (fewer and fewer) pros rely on
stuff like the Origial F1, which would stop a BULLET. With the Photomic finder? even More $$.
So? If you own a 1973 F2? you can probably get it serviced. But `Grey Market? My brother was
a big fan. He found one that I inspected for him.....NO SIGNS of film. No scuffs or left-over emulsion
in any film handling areas. Came with plenty of goodies. No funny noises in shutter or film advance.
I suspect somebody bought it and put it away than forgot about it......It was PERFECT.
Yes.....so I've got a Grey Market lens.....NOW? What market was that intended for?
I'd LOVE to have to send my lens to Quito Equador since it was a 'South American' lens......
If I sent it to Nikon would they TELL me? There is something INSIDE they lens which is difficult
to fake which is the final word....
And MARCI? If you had the Large Advent / original....and especially in anything but the 'utility' box?
We might be negotiating or a sale.....
I know you are just saying that, since you KNOW how wacky that sounds.
And BTW, Keith.....I GET Nikon's point. they are acting to PROTECT dealers. But I've looked out of curiosity?
You simply can't SAVE enough to be worth going Grey Market. I value my dealer and the people I've been
working with for in at least ONE case, nearly 30 years and 3 stores.
My Orange Monster? No problem getting a battery / seal / pressure check.
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