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Post by leonski on Sept 17, 2022 1:19:55 GMT -5
Not that it helped?? My Cambridge Audio DACMagic+ came with a 24watt (2amp / 12v) wall wart. I thought it was getting flakey and sent off (about 20$ or less) for a Meanwell 12v 3amp = 36 watt. Nice..... And with a 78xx regulator I suppose I could knock it down to 5v or maybe 9v at one amp for other purposes....... I thought I saw someone around here with the Goldenear in their 'equipment' call out.......  ?? |
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 17, 2022 20:45:06 GMT -5
Thought my Stealth DC-1 DAC had died this evening - Turned out to be only the batteries in the remote had failed (and leaked all over the battery holder). I needed to clean the corrosion off the battery holder before trying new batteries, so for those who have never had to clean corrosion:
1. Use an old toothbrush to remove all loose corrosion from the springs. Tap the device on your work surface to remove all dust.
2. Put some white vinegar on a Q-tip, and swab all corroded areas (Warning - don't let the vinegar get onto any of the electronics or circuit boards). If corrosion remains, use a small flat screwdriver blade to scrape the springs.
3. Dry the vinegar with a dry Q-tip or two
4. Dip a Q-tip in rubbing alcohol, and clean everything that vinegar has touched.
5. Dry everything off & put new batteries in.
Worked like a charm - my remote now works like new again.
Boom
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 18, 2022 9:06:48 GMT -5
And having spent 40+ hours grooming my music library (directory tags & removing duplicates), I'm starting the first duplication of the drive this morning. Using Chronosync (that, for some reason seems to work faster and perhaps more reliably than OS-X Finder), it's churning right along. At my convenience, I still have to replace some artwork and verify file names. Is there an app or online service that would let me drag and drop a directory that the program would then identify the album, add the artwork, and insert the tag names?
Thanks - Boom
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 18, 2022 20:39:48 GMT -5
Passing cogitations about loudspeakers: If you buy a bookshelf speaker, plan on adding between $100 and $300 for a good pair of stands. By "good" stands, I mean some that are robust enough that a child or pet (or vacuum cleaner) passing by won't dump your expensive speaker on the floor. Whether you buy a tower speaker OR a bookshelf speaker, plan on buying a subwoofer if you want any bass. Most bookshelf and tower speakers sold these days (for the most part) roll off at about 40 Hz. Yes, there are exceptions, but be careful even there. A LOT of manufacturers quote their 3-dB-down point for the bass VERY optimistically (yes, they actually lie). And in general, good subwoofers aren't cheap; cheap subwoofers aren't good... So to whatever you spend for speakers plan on spending from $1,000 to $3,000 more for a good subwoofer or two. Speaker sensitivity is overrated. At one time, amplifier Watts were expensive! Therefore, a speaker that could play loudly with very few watts was highly desirable. Any more, most speakers are designed not only to play loudly with not too many watts, but also to have benign impedance loads so that AVRs can drive them. Good amplifiers can be cheap and even cheap amplifiers can be good! It's EASY to pay WAY too much for speakers. Many consumers believe that there's a strong positive correlation between the price of speakers and how good they'll sound. I believe this idea to be false (although it was closer to true the farther back in time you go). Today, GREAT sounding speakers can be had at just about every price point if you're willing to shop. On the other hand, if you want to impress your audio amigos with your megabuck speakers, feel free... It's only money. And finally, you can make a great pair of speakers sound like dog soup with bad placement. The opposite is also true. Placement makes at least as much difference as the quality of the speakers themselves. But once you've got the speakers roughly placed properly, even small adjustments can provide large audible benefits ( garbulky taught me this). Finis - Boom |
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Post by leonski on Sept 19, 2022 16:44:26 GMT -5
Thought my Stealth DC-1 DAC had died this evening - Turned out to be only the batteries in the remote had failed (and leaked all over the battery holder). I needed to clean the corrosion off the battery holder before trying new batteries, so for those who have never had to clean corrosion: 1. Use an old toothbrush to remove all loose corrosion from the springs. Tap the device on your work surface to remove all dust. 2. Put some white vinegar on a Q-tip, and swab all corroded areas (Warning - don't let the vinegar get onto any of the electronics or circuit boards). If corrosion remains, use a small flat screwdriver blade to scrape the springs. 3. Dry the vinegar with a dry Q-tip or two 4. Dip a Q-tip in rubbing alcohol, and clean everything that vinegar has touched. 5. Dry everything off & put new batteries in. Worked like a charm - my remote now works like new again. Boom I wouldn't use the 'flat screwdriver' technique. Get a small piece of 400 or 800 SC sandpaper. Or failing that? one of those nail boards the wife has hiding in the 'misc' drawer in the bathroom. Trim to size.... This spring contacts are probably chrome plated. So once scratched? You have a continuing service issue. Better to avoid the battery leakage altogether. Swap 'em on a regular basis......or at FIRST SIGN of 'expansion'. |
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 19, 2022 17:53:52 GMT -5
The only way to preemptively prevent battery leakage would be to:
1. Use the same (good grade) of batteries and
2. Change the batteries on a routine interval (in advance of credible failures)
If you wait until the device stops working (as I did) you can’t predict whether the leakage has already occurred or not.
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Post by leonski on Sept 20, 2022 0:33:25 GMT -5
I've pitched a LOT of otherwise good batteries. Simplly based on a 'cycle'.
a few devices use batteries much faster than they age-out, so those are chenged when they have functional problems....
Plan 'B;? I remove batteries from remotes or devices I don't use. Install batteries at need
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 20, 2022 9:12:02 GMT -5
I'm too finicky to predict what remotes I'll use or not use. Therefore, I think that I'd rather toss some good batteries than to have to clean corrosion. I plan to change all batteries on an annual basis. At New Years (when I change the batteries in my smoke alarms and CO2 detectors), I'll just hunt up all my remotes and change their batteries too. Come to think of it, I have other remotes that would benefit from this - Gate openers that use coin batteries, Closet lights in closets where the house builders didn't run power to, and every three or four years, the batteries in my UPS boxes. If the VOM shows that batteries are still at or above their ratings (1.6 VDC for a 1.5 V battery), I might run them for a second year, but in general, I'm game to change them. I used to use Energizer Lithium AA and AAA batteries in my devices, but I've found that Costco Kirkland brand alkaline batteries are cheaper and last just as long.
Boom
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 22, 2022 13:47:48 GMT -5
I tried selling on Discogs and quickly discovered that it's not for me:
Obscure labels and rare CDs are not in Discogs database.
If you want to add a new item to Discogs database, you must take, edit, and upload three photos (not taken from the internet) front, back, and disc label.
You must also manually enter track numbers, track names, track times, and all other metadata (takes about 20 minutes per disc).
If you ask why Discogs can't auto-populate metadata from other websites like ripping programs do, you're instantly jumped on by "this is the way we've always done it" posters.
So it didn't take much time to decide that Discogs was NOT the place for me to sell discs. I deleted my account, and will try eBay instead. Would there be enough interest to post discs on the Emporium here on the Lounge? If not, it's CraigsList & eBay for me, and pretty darn soon!
Boomzilla
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Post by leonski on Sept 23, 2022 1:00:00 GMT -5
I sold about 100 discs on Craigslist but set the bar low at 200$ the lot.
Some, IMO were not usable, but a few might have made the whole thing worthwhile for a dedicated Vinyl guy......
A couple East Wind DD pressings. A DSOM (pink floyd) with the 'right' number on the jacket.
A couple Telarc and a single Sheffield.
I think there was even a 3 record set of Will The Circle Be Unbroken......recorded 2 track, 15ips on half inch tape. WOW.
I would send the complete listing to anyone who asked........took a while to enter all that data.....
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KeithL
Administrator 
Posts: 10,273
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Post by KeithL on Sept 23, 2022 10:47:21 GMT -5
BATTERY RECOMMENDATION:Unfortunately MOST normal alkaline batteries now seem to have a leakage problem (definitely Duracell). They will now sometimes even leak before being fully depleted of power in something like a clock. Since this was not true in the distant past we must assume that either the formulation or something in the manufacturing process has changed. (Unfortunately I've even seen Duracells leak in under one year recently - in a clock that was still running.)
HOWEVER, I now use the new "Ultimate Lithium" batteries in everything, and so far I have not had a single one ever leak. They also have a REALLY long shelf life (10 years or so) - which makes them an excellent choice for devices that are used infrequently. They also deliver more power overall - so they run longer in devices like flashlights. (Unlike some other types of lithium batteries they deliver a normal 1.5V and are a direct replacement for alkalines.) There are ONLY two down-sides that I know of. 1. The are only available in smaller sizes - AA, AAA, and 9V (no C or D as far as I know). 2. They are quite expensive (around $1 each). The only way to preemptively prevent battery leakage would be to: 1. Use the same (good grade) of batteries and 2. Change the batteries on a routine interval (in advance of credible failures) If you wait until the device stops working (as I did) you can’t predict whether the leakage has already occurred or not.
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 23, 2022 11:45:12 GMT -5
The online battery reviews I’ve read that compare brands generally rate Costco’s Kirkland brand as best (but perhaps they were only comparing alkaline batteries - I don’t recall). I agree that I’ve never had a lithium battery leak - but I’ve never had a Kirkland alkaline leak either. The cost difference doesn’t matter - I don’t have that many battery devices.
My biggest battery user is a set of eight remote controlled, battery-operated lights in a closet. Each light uses three AAA batteries, and each of the batteries last but six months (whether the lights are actually used or not). Lithium batteries in this service last no longer than alkaline. So at a rate of 48 batteries per year, the alkaline are more attractive.
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Post by marcl on Sept 23, 2022 12:14:24 GMT -5
The online battery reviews I’ve read that compare brands generally rate Costco’s Kirkland brand as best (but perhaps they were only comparing alkaline batteries - I don’t recall). I agree that I’ve never had a lithium battery leak - but I’ve never had a Kirkland alkaline leak either. The cost difference doesn’t matter - I don’t have that many battery devices. My biggest battery user is a set of eight remote controlled, battery-operated lights in a closet. Each light uses three AAA batteries, and each he batteries last but six months (whether the lights are actually used or not). Lithium batteries in this service last no longer than alkaline. So at a rate of 48 batteries per year, the alkaline are more attractive. I have little lights with motion sensors stashed in various strategic places, especially the stairwell. Three AAA's each, last a long time. Great for nighttime navigation without turning all the lights on. I only use Ultimate Lithia! |
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 23, 2022 12:39:43 GMT -5
I have little lights with motion sensors stashed in various strategic places, especially the stairwell. Three AAA's each, last a long time. Great for nighttime navigation without turning all the lights on. I only use Ultimate Lithia! I think that motion-sensing lights might have been a better choice for this closet. The light set I got is controlled by a remote control, and the lights have to be waiting for the remote's signal at all times. Maybe the motion sensors use less power? But as I said, six months is the limit for any and every battery I've tried in these lights. I like the even illumination, even in the corners of the closet (that wouldn't be as well lit by a single overhead bulb), but the maintenance to remove, disassemble, replace batteries, and reinstall twice per year is a PITA. |
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Post by marcl on Sept 23, 2022 12:47:23 GMT -5
I have little lights with motion sensors stashed in various strategic places, especially the stairwell. Three AAA's each, last a long time. Great for nighttime navigation without turning all the lights on. I only use Ultimate Lithia! I think that motion-sensing lights might have been a better choice for this closet. The light set I got is controlled by a remote control, and the lights have to be waiting for the remote's signal at all times. Maybe the motion sensors use less power? But as I said, six months is the limit for any and every battery I've tried in these lights. I like the even illumination, even in the corners of the closet (that wouldn't be as well lit by a single overhead bulb), but the maintenance to remove, disassemble, replace batteries, and reinstall twice per year is a PITA.  |
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Post by leonski on Sept 24, 2022 19:11:34 GMT -5
BATTERY RECOMMENDATION:Unfortunately MOST normal alkaline batteries now seem to have a leakage problem (definitely Duracell). They will now sometimes even leak before being fully depleted of power in something like a clock. Since this was not true in the distant past we must assume that either the formulation or something in the manufacturing process has changed. (Unfortunately I've even seen Duracells leak in under one year recently - in a clock that was still running.)
HOWEVER, I now use the new "Ultimate Lithium" batteries in everything, and so far I have not had a single one ever leak. They also have a REALLY long shelf life (10 years or so) - which makes them an excellent choice for devices that are used infrequently. They also deliver more power overall - so they run longer in devices like flashlights. (Unlike some other types of lithium batteries they deliver a normal 1.5V and are a direct replacement for alkalines.) There are ONLY two down-sides that I know of. 1. The are only available in smaller sizes - AA, AAA, and 9V (no C or D as far as I know). 2. They are quite expensive (around $1 each). The only way to preemptively prevent battery leakage would be to: 1. Use the same (good grade) of batteries and 2. Change the batteries on a routine interval (in advance of credible failures) If you wait until the device stops working (as I did) you can’t predict whether the leakage has already occurred or not. Manufacturing is a game of 'inches'......or if you'd prefer.....Pennies....... It's unfortunate that the book keeper might require a process change which impacts performance.....reliability at least......at the savings of Pennies Per Thousand..... GM is famous for this. Even my 2007 Toyota Camry had a Bum Water Pump and the sun visors were later replaced under recall.....The pump I put in? Been going good for over a decade while the new visors are fine.......The new owner loves this beast. I'm not going to get into the oil consumption test performed by Toyota.......They had ENGINE problems that year, too..... |
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Post by leonski on Sept 26, 2022 18:02:54 GMT -5
Well, Boom, Now you've done it.
I changed some batteries today.
9v in clock radio, food scale and my DMM
2 of 3 were just below 8v and the third just OVER.........No leakage seen.
New all were at 9.5, give or take.
Bathroom scale takes AAA of which I'm 'out of stock' and my 'visible' ceiling fan remote is still good......also a 9v.
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,273
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Post by KeithL on Sept 27, 2022 9:31:42 GMT -5
In "the old days" I used either Duracells or Energizers - both alkalines. Back then, leaks were rare, and only happened years after the battery had gone dead (like in a flashlight abandoned in the back of a drawer). And, back then, at least some manufacturers actually guaranteed their batteries.... One time Eveready replaced two expensive safety-certified flashlights I had that had literally leaked after decades of being buried in an drawer. (They cheerfully replaced both with the same brand and safety rating - and I was quite impressed.) Then something changed in the formulation of either alkaline batteries themselves or the seals used on them (I've always assumed something involving environmental regulations). About ten years ago I started to see Duracells leaking while the battery was actually still alive. I opened up one clock the day the display went blank... and the batteries had obviously been leaking for quite some time. (These were batteries that were used well before their expiration... and only lasted about a year in that clock.) The second time this happened I switched to the Ultimate Lithiums. Their extremely long and reliable shelf life also makes them an excellent choice for emergency lights that are rarely used. So far I have never had a lithium battery either leak or die simply from sitting too long. Well, Boom, Now you've done it. I changed some batteries today. 9v in clock radio, food scale and my DMM 2 of 3 were just below 8v and the third just OVER.........No leakage seen. New all were at 9.5, give or take. Bathroom scale takes AAA of which I'm 'out of stock' and my 'visible' ceiling fan remote is still good......also a 9v. |
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on Sept 27, 2022 9:39:13 GMT -5
It depends on the design of the circuitry and nothing else. Anything that uses a remote control must have receiver circuitry that remains active and "listens for a signal". However motion controlled lights don't work by magic either. So-called "passive infrared motion sensors" have active circuitry that watches for changes in heat patterns that indicate movement. Basically, they have the equivalent of a very low resolution thermal image scanner, and they "look for the picture to shift". This circuitry is actually pretty complicated - and must also remain active. Designs for both have gotten very efficient recently so it really just depend son how well they're designed. If you want a light that won't run down the batteries when not in use then get one with a pull-string or an actual flip switch. These are cute for occasional use: www.amazon.com/Wireless-Stairwell-Emergency-Operated-Batteries/dp/B09CGJS2XHI have little lights with motion sensors stashed in various strategic places, especially the stairwell. Three AAA's each, last a long time. Great for nighttime navigation without turning all the lights on. I only use Ultimate Lithia! I think that motion-sensing lights might have been a better choice for this closet. The light set I got is controlled by a remote control, and the lights have to be waiting for the remote's signal at all times. Maybe the motion sensors use less power? But as I said, six months is the limit for any and every battery I've tried in these lights. I like the even illumination, even in the corners of the closet (that wouldn't be as well lit by a single overhead bulb), but the maintenance to remove, disassemble, replace batteries, and reinstall twice per year is a PITA. |
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 27, 2022 12:59:58 GMT -5
I think that my closet light batteries have a switch to turn off the remote control circuitry. But then you have to physically press the light "lens" to turn on/off the light. And with eight of them scatted over the walls & ceiling of the closet, it's just a LOT easier to click the remote to turn them all on and off simultaneously.
But the factory that made these very obviously cheaped-out on the electronics so that the standby power draw is HUGE. The things EAT batteries,. After six months, even lithium batteries are as dead as can be (about 0.9VDC each). Could I use rechargeables? Yes, and that would probably be more eco-friendly than replacing 48 AAA batteries per year, so I may consider it. OTOH, we aren't planning on being in this house much longer, and I'm leaving the lights & remote with the next owner.
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