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Post by marcl on May 9, 2023 7:27:57 GMT -5
My daughter has friends who have family in Korea. The friends (both members of the couple are medical doctors) were able to get us medical-quality KF-94 masks that were certified by the government of South Korea. When we found such masks on Amazon, we thought we could quit relying on the charity of my daughter's friends. Alas, the masks from Amazon had the certifying agency misspelled on the packages, and were visibly different from the real KF-94 masks. We did end up having to use them, but with a cloth mask on top. The cloth mask caught larger debris and droplets, and (at least hopefully) the inner ersatz KF-94 masks caught viroids. Whether by cautious exposure practices or by blind luck, the masks seemed to work. Neither of us has had Covid (knock on wood). However, new Covid variants continue apace and the vaccines seem to be falling behind. Not wishing to open a political can of worms here - my wife is in poor health, and seems unlikely to survive Covid on top of her other medical problems. So when in public, we both still wear masks in hopes of reducing the probability of infection. But I notice that we're mostly the only ones... One thing I have noticed - if I wear even a cloth mask while I cut grass, I don't get hay fever like I do if I'm not using the mask. Who am I to blow against the wind? Well done! Likewise ... we have worn N95's for three years. Though not often at the moment, we wore them 100% indoors and outdoors while in Japan three weeks in January, and we will wear them while aboard a ship in August. We should not shy away from discussing science and health because some people have made it a political issue. Some people who insist on politicizing science don't believe in quantum physics ... but thankfully we can still discuss the merits of DAC's all day
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Post by Boomzilla on May 9, 2023 10:26:50 GMT -5
With a genuine KF-94 mask, no outer cloth mask is needed. But with the counterfeit masks, we wore the cloth over mask in hopes of increasing effectiveness. Now that we have genuine masks, we don’t bother.
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on May 9, 2023 13:52:22 GMT -5
"Ordinary paper dust masks" and cloth masks rely on mechanical filtering (the dust doesn't fit through the holes). With those having more layers would probably help. However, the "higher type" masks, in addition to mechanical filtering, include a special electrostatically charged plastic fabric "non-woven fabric" layer which actually attracts smaller particles and virii. In a "counterfeit" that simply had a phony certificate, but was otherwise properly made, including the electrostatic layer, an extra fabric layer would probably be unnecessary. And, in an out-and-out fake, which lacked the electrostatic layer, or one where the electrostatic layer had never been "charged", an extra layer of fabric would NOT "bring it up to the effectiveness of a real one". (Better protection if offered by staying up to date on the latest variant-specific vaccine and avoiding crowds as much as possible.) It's also worth mentioning, for those who actually care, that masks are nowhere near "100% effective". (And, while almost everyone agrees that "they help", their actual effectiveness is hotly disputed). On the "incoming side", a mask will trap some particles, which reduces your exposure, and certainly helps... But, more importantly, on the "outgoing side", they slow down the airflow... (so, if you are infected, the particles you breath out may either be caught, or may be slowed down so they travel less far, and stay in the air for a shorter amount of time). The upshot of all this is that, like seat belts, masks help, but do NOT totally protect you... (And the exact details of how much protection they offer vary depending on the circumstances... ) Also, unfortunately, the protection they offer is quite limited unless at least most people wear them. With a genuine KF-94 mask, no outer cloth mask is needed. But with the counterfeit masks, we wore the cloth over mask in hopes of increasing effectiveness. Now that we have genuine masks, we don’t bother.
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Post by marcl on May 9, 2023 13:59:40 GMT -5
"Ordinary paper dust masks" and cloth masks rely on mechanical filtering (the dust doesn't fit through the holes). With those having more layers would probably help. However, the "higher type" masks, in addition to mechanical filtering, include a special electrostatically charged plastic fabric "non-woven fabric" layer which actually attracts smaller particles and virii. In a "counterfeit" that simply had a phony certificate, but was otherwise properly made, including the electrostatic layer, an extra fabric layer would probably be unnecessary. And, in an out-and-out fake, which lacked the electrostatic layer, or one where the electrostatic layer had never been "charged", an extra layer of fabric would NOT "bring it up to the effectiveness of a real one". (Better protection if offered by staying up to date on the latest variant-specific vaccine and avoiding crowds as much as possible.) It's also worth mentioning, for those who actually care, that masks are nowhere near "100% effective". (And, while almost everyone agrees that "they help", their actual effectiveness is hotly disputed). On the "incoming side", a mask will trap some particles, which reduces your exposure, and certainly helps... But, more importantly, on the "outgoing side", they slow down the airflow... (so, if you are infected, the particles you breath out may either be caught, or may be slowed down so they travel less far, and stay in the air for a shorter amount of time). The upshot of all this is that, like seat belts, masks help, but do NOT totally protect you... (And the exact details of how much protection they offer vary depending on the circumstances... ) Also, unfortunately, the protection they offer is quite limited unless at least most people wear them. With a genuine KF-94 mask, no outer cloth mask is needed. But with the counterfeit masks, we wore the cloth over mask in hopes of increasing effectiveness. Now that we have genuine masks, we don’t bother. No debates in Japan! BTW, handy stats for the brother in law who says he can still smell farts: Covid virus cell 140nm ... fart molecule 0.4nm ![](//storage.proboards.com/1381179/thumbnailer/DGmxHBeurIgAhiOcHBwZ.png) Oh and ... I have some that have an extra layer treated to actually kill bacteria and viruses if they hand around long enough.
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Post by Boomzilla on May 9, 2023 16:17:20 GMT -5
About the best you get for a non-supplied-air device is a PAPR - Powered Air Purifying Respirator. This creates a positive pressure around the user's mouth and nose so that if any leakage occurs, it's filtered air leaking out - not contaminated air leaking in. Of course, this type of respirator neither supplies oxygen in an oxygen-deficient atmosphere nor works after its filters are saturated. But a PAPR is more tolerant of a poor mask-to-face seal. In fact, some employees with beards could use a PAPR when they were unable to use any non-pressurized face mask. The chemical and/or HEPA filters on a PAPR can also be larger and longer-lasting than the small cartridge filters that are used for on-the-face respirators.
The olfactory warning properties of the materials you're trying to filter are also important. Chlorine and ammonia, for example, you can easily smell and thus, when your air filters become saturated, you'll know it. Other materials, like vinyl chloride monomer, phosgene, or the Covid virus, have little to no olfactory warning properties and thus, you can be using a saturated filter but not know it. In phosgene use, for example, the odor threshold where you can smell it is above the IDLH (immediately dangerous to life & health) level - so if you can smell the phosgene, you're already dead...
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Post by garbulky on May 9, 2023 16:57:10 GMT -5
"Ordinary paper dust masks" and cloth masks rely on mechanical filtering (the dust doesn't fit through the holes). With those having more layers would probably help. However, the "higher type" masks, in addition to mechanical filtering, include a special electrostatically charged plastic fabric "non-woven fabric" layer which actually attracts smaller particles and virii. In a "counterfeit" that simply had a phony certificate, but was otherwise properly made, including the electrostatic layer, an extra fabric layer would probably be unnecessary. And, in an out-and-out fake, which lacked the electrostatic layer, or one where the electrostatic layer had never been "charged", an extra layer of fabric would NOT "bring it up to the effectiveness of a real one". (Better protection if offered by staying up to date on the latest variant-specific vaccine and avoiding crowds as much as possible.) It's also worth mentioning, for those who actually care, that masks are nowhere near "100% effective". (And, while almost everyone agrees that "they help", their actual effectiveness is hotly disputed). On the "incoming side", a mask will trap some particles, which reduces your exposure, and certainly helps... But, more importantly, on the "outgoing side", they slow down the airflow... (so, if you are infected, the particles you breath out may either be caught, or may be slowed down so they travel less far, and stay in the air for a shorter amount of time). The upshot of all this is that, like seat belts, masks help, but do NOT totally protect you... (And the exact details of how much protection they offer vary depending on the circumstances... ) Also, unfortunately, the protection they offer is quite limited unless at least most people wear them. With a genuine KF-94 mask, no outer cloth mask is needed. But with the counterfeit masks, we wore the cloth over mask in hopes of increasing effectiveness. Now that we have genuine masks, we don’t bother. Though nothing will completely prevent COVID, Genuine N95 masks can be considered "mostly" effective as they have been tested and certified for fit and its layers is proven to be small enough to filter out viral particles. Unfortunately for fake n95 masks, the aerosol airborn viral particles go straight through. But however, fit tends to be better than a regular cloth mask as the sides are not exposed and even fake masks can filter the large cough droplets. But does it filter the airborn viral aerosol? Most likely not. I doubt fake mask manufacturers put money into buying genuine HEPA filter materials. This may help illustrate the difference (older 2022 data) ![](https://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/volumes/71/wr/social-media/mm7106e1_MaskingEffectiveness_IMAGE_04Feb22_1200x675_1.jpg?_=64903)
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Post by marcl on May 9, 2023 18:03:27 GMT -5
About the best you get for a non-supplied-air device is a PAPR - Powered Air Purifying Respirator. This creates a positive pressure around the user's mouth and nose so that if any leakage occurs, it's filtered air leaking out - not contaminated air leaking in. Of course, this type of respirator neither supplies oxygen in an oxygen-deficient atmosphere nor works after its filters are saturated. But a PAPR is more tolerant of a poor mask-to-face seal. In fact, some employees with beards could use a PAPR when they were unable to use any non-pressurized face mask. The chemical and/or HEPA filters on a PAPR can also be larger and longer-lasting than the small cartridge filters that are used for on-the-face respirators. The olfactory warning properties of the materials you're trying to filter are also important. Chlorine and ammonia, for example, you can easily smell and thus, when your air filters become saturated, you'll know it. Other materials, like vinyl chloride monomer, phosgene, or the Covid virus, have little to no olfactory warning properties and thus, you can be using a saturated filter but not know it. In phosgene use, for example, the odor threshold where you can smell it is above the IDLH (immediately dangerous to life & health) level - so if you can smell the phosgene, you're already dead... I upset a LOT of people back in the 80's when I occasionally had to go into a refinery where they were prohibited from having beards. I did a lot of work in the 80's on protecting electronic gear from atmospheric contaminants, and it turns out electronics need to be in conditions one or two orders of magnitude LESS polluted than people can stand. We talked about how contaminants could diffuse in or out of a building .... positive pressure vs partial pressures and all that. Amongst things that have boggled my brain though with regard to a small aerosol particle finding its way through a fibrous, charged membrane is ... #1 the particle does not know which side of the membrane it is on, so the notion of the mask protecting me vs other people should be nonsense; and #2, if I had to say which side of a mask had greater protection, I still would say the wearer, because the wearer is forcing virus cells through the mask with some pressure into a confined space and so maybe more successful at pushing them out .... while in the other direction the wearer is trying to suck virus cells toward the mask from the open atmosphere, and I would think the virus cells would just fly around and bounce off. But hey, I'm just an engineer ...
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Post by leonski on May 9, 2023 18:29:16 GMT -5
About the best you get for a non-supplied-air device is a PAPR - Powered Air Purifying Respirator. This creates a positive pressure around the user's mouth and nose so that if any leakage occurs, it's filtered air leaking out - not contaminated air leaking in. Of course, this type of respirator neither supplies oxygen in an oxygen-deficient atmosphere nor works after its filters are saturated. But a PAPR is more tolerant of a poor mask-to-face seal. In fact, some employees with beards could use a PAPR when they were unable to use any non-pressurized face mask. The chemical and/or HEPA filters on a PAPR can also be larger and longer-lasting than the small cartridge filters that are used for on-the-face respirators. The olfactory warning properties of the materials you're trying to filter are also important. Chlorine and ammonia, for example, you can easily smell and thus, when your air filters become saturated, you'll know it. Other materials, like vinyl chloride monomer, phosgene, or the Covid virus, have little to no olfactory warning properties and thus, you can be using a saturated filter but not know it. In phosgene use, for example, the odor threshold where you can smell it is above the IDLH (immediately dangerous to life & health) level - so if you can smell the phosgene, you're already dead... I upset a LOT of people back in the 80's when I occasionally had to go into a refinery where they were prohibited from having beards. I did a lot of work in the 80's on protecting electronic gear from atmospheric contaminants, and it turns out electronics need to be in conditions one or two orders of magnitude LESS polluted than people can stand. We talked about how contaminants could diffuse in or out of a building .... positive pressure vs partial pressures and all that. Amongst things that have boggled my brain though with regard to a small aerosol particle finding its way through a fibrous, charged membrane is ... #1 the particle does not know which side of the membrane it is on, so the notion of the mask protecting me vs other people should be nonsense; and #2, if I had to say which side of a mask had greater protection, I still would say the wearer, because the wearer is forcing virus cells through the mask with some pressure into a confined space and so maybe more successful at pushing them out .... while in the other direction the wearer is trying to suck virus cells toward the mask from the open atmosphere, and I would think the virus cells would just fly around and bounce off. But hey, I'm just an engineer ... Add to that the MANUFACTURE of semiconductors must be in very clean spaces. Class 10 is not unusual and Class 1 is nice in some places. www.cleanairtechnology.com/cleanroom-classifications-class.php?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_pCU4LHp_gIVJAytBh2c5A2FEAAYASAAEgILDPD_BwEScroll down for cleanroom standards.
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Post by Boomzilla on May 10, 2023 22:07:29 GMT -5
The churn…
In preparation for moving out of state, the audio gear has been thinned to the bare minimum. I’ve sold two subwoofers, a single subwoofer room eq device, a pair of bookshelf speakers, two DACs, a tube amp, three solid state stereo amps, two room diffusers, and a preamp. I gave the legendary Heathkit mono blocks to Garbulky. I sold or gave away the bulk of my CDs, and I still have odds and ends to dispose of.
What remains? Roon core with Qobuz capability, an Emotiva Stealth DAC, Emo PA1 amps, and GoldenEar 3+ speakers. The most minimal system I’ve run in a LONG time!
Still satisfying!
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on May 11, 2023 6:34:13 GMT -5
The churn… In preparation for moving out of state, the audio gear has been thinned to the bare minimum. I’ve sold two subwoofers, a single subwoofer room eq device, a pair of bookshelf speakers, two DACs, a tube amp, three solid state stereo amps, two room diffusers, and a preamp. I gave the legendary Heathkit mono blocks to Garbulky. I sold or gave away the bulk of my CDs, and I still have odds and ends to dispose of. What remains? Roon core with Qobuz capability, an Emotiva Stealth DAC, Emo PA1 amps, and GoldenEar 3+ speakers. The most minimal system I’ve run in a LONG time! Still satisfying! I'm sure you mentioned it, but where are you moving to?
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Post by Boomzilla on May 11, 2023 7:29:39 GMT -5
I'm sure you mentioned it, but where are you moving to? That's a good question... My daughter, son in law, and two grandsons live in Arlington, MA. But we're not sure if we want to deal with Taxachusetts' taxes, so we may choose a nearby state with rail into Boston. The other question (both wife and I being born and raised in the South) is whether we'll tolerate northern winter weather. To find out, we'll likely rent for a year or two to try out the climate. Not to our liking? Back home to a southern state! Another option is to be snow-birds. North in the summer and south in the winter. So things are unsettled. We do want to get out of Louisiana for a number of reasons: - Likelihood of increasingly strong hurricanes
- Increasing poverty and crime
- Decline in educational levels
- Strong decline in the quality of State government
- Prevalence of homelessness and mentally ill on the streets
Some of these things could be cured. But some couldn't.
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on May 11, 2023 8:10:00 GMT -5
I'm sure you mentioned it, but where are you moving to? That's a good question... My daughter, son in law, and two grandsons live in Arlington, MA. But we're not sure if we want to deal with Taxachusetts' taxes, so we may choose a nearby state with rail into Boston. The other question (both wife and I being born and raised in the South) is whether we'll tolerate northern winter weather. To find out, we'll likely rent for a year or two to try out the climate. Not to our liking? Back home to a southern state! Another option is to be snow-birds. North in the summer and south in the winter. So things are unsettled. We do want to get out of Louisiana for a number of reasons: - Likelihood of increasingly strong hurricanes
- Increasing poverty and crime
- Decline in educational levels
- Strong decline in the quality of State government
- Prevalence of homelessness and mentally ill on the streets
Some of these things could be cured. But some couldn't. It's always nice to be within a reasonable distance of your kids and grandkids. Up and above the cold Massachusetts weather, the taxes would likely be the main problem, especially if you are in or close to retirement. Having lived in Virginia since the age of 18 and having seen that Louisiana, Georgia, Florida definitely has it's share of hurricane/tornado type weather. However, there are weather related problems no matter where you live. We had a tornado come through out neighborhood in Northern Virginia years ago. New roof, new siding. We deal mainly with strong thunderstorms in the summer. The other items you mention seem to be on the increase in the country at large and can be solved if elected officials have the gumption and desire to do so. The snowbird solution is one option if you can afford it. The key is to not make a quick decision and to weigh the positives and negatives.
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Post by Boomzilla on May 11, 2023 9:40:32 GMT -5
GREEN ROOM (again) - My computer room is at the far end of the house from the electrical panel and is prone to voltage variations. I know this because my two UPS boxes that power the computer systems trigger a few times per week. In fact, I moved my laser printer out of the computer room because it drew down the voltage every time it started.
The light fixture in the computer room is a ceiling fan. It has three e-12 (candelabra sized) sockets in its lighting fixture. To get more light, I switched from incandescent to LED lights in that fan fixture. The consequence is that every four to six months, the LED lights begin flickering and then go out. This, according to what I read on the internet, is because of the voltage fluctuations. LED lights don't like variable voltage...
When the e-12 bulbs DO go out (and they do often), I have to get more (they're hard to find at the corner store) and then essentially disassemble the whole fan to get to the bulbs. The threaded stem that drops from the fan serves as a channel for the chain operator for the light, but there is also a second chain that turns the fan on and off that dangles to the side of the central threaded tube. The light cover has two holes, one for each chain. But to get to the lights, I have to unthread the decorative cover over the frosted glass light bowl, then unthread the bowl retainer nut and gasket, then let the bowl hang by the chains while I reach inside to change the lightbulbs. It's a PITA.
So I'm trying to explore other options. If I keep the fan and light fixture, there are incandescent and halogen lights available. The incandescents will be (presumably) the most durable, but will also emit the lowest number of lumens. Since the computer room is dim, even with three good LED lights in the fan fixture, I don't think this is an option. I don't know how tolerant halogen lights are to voltage variation. Do you?
Another option is to remove the ceiling fan and its' problematic light fixture (I don't use the fan anyway) and instead install a light-fixture-only that uses three or more conventional-base light bulbs. Even with troublesome LED bulbs, the bulbs will be FAR easier to change, AND will provide a lot more light.
So my questions are:
Are halogen bulbs more tolerant of voltage variations than LED bulbs? Is there any other option for e-12 bulbs that I haven't considered? Should I scrap the whole fan with its wimpy e-12 bulbs and get a bright conventional fixture?
Thanks - Boom
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Post by marcl on May 11, 2023 9:49:47 GMT -5
GREEN ROOM (again) - My computer room is at the far end of the house from the electrical panel and is prone to voltage variations. I know this because my two UPS boxes that power the computer systems trigger a few times per week. In fact, I moved my laser printer out of the computer room because it drew down the voltage every time it started. The light fixture in the computer room is a ceiling fan. It has three e-12 (candelabra sized) sockets in its lighting fixture. To get more light, I switched from incandescent to LED lights in that fan fixture. The consequence is that every four to six months, the LED lights begin flickering and then go out. This, according to what I read on the internet, is because of the voltage fluctuations. LED lights don't like variable voltage... When the e-12 bulbs DO go out (and they do often), I have to get more (they're hard to find at the corner store) and then essentially disassemble the whole fan to get to the bulbs. The threaded stem that drops from the fan serves as a channel for the chain operator for the light, but there is also a second chain that turns the fan on and off that dangles to the side of the central threaded tube. The light cover has two holes, one for each chain. But to get to the lights, I have to unthread the decorative cover over the frosted glass light bowl, then unthread the bowl retainer nut and gasket, then let the bowl hang by the chains while I reach inside to change the lightbulbs. It's a PITA. So I'm trying to explore other options. If I keep the fan and light fixture, there are incandescent and halogen lights available. The incandescents will be (presumably) the most durable, but will also emit the lowest number of lumens. Since the computer room is dim, even with three good LED lights in the fan fixture, I don't think this is an option. I don't know how tolerant halogen lights are to voltage variation. Do you? Another option is to remove the ceiling fan and its' problematic light fixture (I don't use the fan anyway) and instead install a light-fixture-only that uses three or more conventional-base light bulbs. Even with troublesome LED bulbs, the bulbs will be FAR easier to change, AND will provide a lot more light. So my questions are: Are halogen bulbs more tolerant of voltage variations than LED bulbs? Is there any other option for e-12 bulbs that I haven't considered? Should I scrap the whole fan with its wimpy e-12 bulbs and get a bright conventional fixture? Thanks - Boom I think you have the answer ... MOVE!
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Post by monkumonku on May 11, 2023 9:56:06 GMT -5
I'm sure you mentioned it, but where are you moving to? That's a good question... My daughter, son in law, and two grandsons live in Arlington, MA. But we're not sure if we want to deal with Taxachusetts' taxes, so we may choose a nearby state with rail into Boston. The other question (both wife and I being born and raised in the South) is whether we'll tolerate northern winter weather. To find out, we'll likely rent for a year or two to try out the climate. Not to our liking? Back home to a southern state! Another option is to be snow-birds. North in the summer and south in the winter. So things are unsettled. We do want to get out of Louisiana for a number of reasons: - Likelihood of increasingly strong hurricanes
- Increasing poverty and crime
- Decline in educational levels
- Strong decline in the quality of State government
- Prevalence of homelessness and mentally ill on the streets
Some of these things could be cured. But some couldn't. Well aside from the hurricanes, the other reasons you mention affect a large portion of this country. It will be interesting to hear your observations of wherever your new stomping grounds turn out to be. What's your ETA for the next residence?
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on May 11, 2023 9:59:28 GMT -5
GREEN ROOM (again) - My computer room is at the far end of the house from the electrical panel and is prone to voltage variations. I know this because my two UPS boxes that power the computer systems trigger a few times per week. In fact, I moved my laser printer out of the computer room because it drew down the voltage every time it started. The light fixture in the computer room is a ceiling fan. It has three e-12 (candelabra sized) sockets in its lighting fixture. To get more light, I switched from incandescent to LED lights in that fan fixture. The consequence is that every four to six months, the LED lights begin flickering and then go out. This, according to what I read on the internet, is because of the voltage fluctuations. LED lights don't like variable voltage... When the e-12 bulbs DO go out (and they do often), I have to get more (they're hard to find at the corner store) and then essentially disassemble the whole fan to get to the bulbs. The threaded stem that drops from the fan serves as a channel for the chain operator for the light, but there is also a second chain that turns the fan on and off that dangles to the side of the central threaded tube. The light cover has two holes, one for each chain. But to get to the lights, I have to unthread the decorative cover over the frosted glass light bowl, then unthread the bowl retainer nut and gasket, then let the bowl hang by the chains while I reach inside to change the lightbulbs. It's a PITA. So I'm trying to explore other options. If I keep the fan and light fixture, there are incandescent and halogen lights available. The incandescents will be (presumably) the most durable, but will also emit the lowest number of lumens. Since the computer room is dim, even with three good LED lights in the fan fixture, I don't think this is an option. I don't know how tolerant halogen lights are to voltage variation. Do you? Another option is to remove the ceiling fan and its' problematic light fixture (I don't use the fan anyway) and instead install a light-fixture-only that uses three or more conventional-base light bulbs. Even with troublesome LED bulbs, the bulbs will be FAR easier to change, AND will provide a lot more light. So my questions are: Are halogen bulbs more tolerant of voltage variations than LED bulbs? Is there any other option for e-12 bulbs that I haven't considered? Should I scrap the whole fan with its wimpy e-12 bulbs and get a bright conventional fixture? Thanks - Boom First off, it may be worth asking an electrician to check things out as to why this happens and you may have already done that. Second, I would get rid of the fan if you don't use it and install a fixture of your choice that has replaceable LED A19 bulbs. Make sure to buy a fixture that is not enclosed. I have run into bulbs burning out that were meant for enclosed fixtures, but it didn't matter. They need some air. I had to create gaps between where the glass cover connected to the fixture by using small, clear rubber feet so there was airflow.
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Post by Boomzilla on May 11, 2023 15:38:32 GMT -5
...What's your ETA for the next residence? Now THAT'S the question of the decade! We had hoped to be moved by this Summer, but my wife has been ill and unable to prepare. So the best answer I can give is "I don't know."
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Post by Boomzilla on May 11, 2023 15:52:19 GMT -5
First off, it may be worth asking an electrician to check things out as to why this happens and you may have already done that. I know why this happens. The person who built this house also owned and built the apartments next door. He (apparently) built the house out or leftovers from the apartment job, and also had some friends on the municipal inspection board. NOTHING in this house is to code. The doors and halls are too narrow, the plumbing has been replaced, the wiring is substandard, and the house creaks like a ship at sea in high winds. All that being the case, we were able to buy the house "as is" for about half its market value. Second, I would get rid of the fan if you don't use it and install a fixture of your choice that has replaceable LED A19 bulbs. Make sure to buy a fixture that is not enclosed. I have run into bulbs burning out that were meant for enclosed fixtures, but it didn't matter. They need some air. I had to create gaps between where the glass cover connected to the fixture by using small, clear rubber feet so there was airflow. I did exactly this today, thank you. Although the new A19 bulbs are also LED, I can replace them without having to disassemble their fixture. And, as you suggest, I also bought an "open fixture" so that the bulbs have good ventilation. As a further benefit, the simple, two-bulb fixture was only $25 at Lowes. I donated the old fan and lighting to Re-Store (a non-profit that helps build homes for low income folks). So, other than about a half an hour on the ladder disassembling the old fan and lights, the install was simple. I left the wall switch for the fan and the fan wiring so that if anyone wants to re-install a ceiling fan in the future, the wiring is there. NEXT GREEN ROOM QUESTION - Who its reputable and efficient at HVAC duct cleaning? I'm pretty sure I have some gradu (technical term meaning dirt, gunk, and maybe mold) in my ductwork. The ceiling registers are mostly clean but a few have small fans of dust on the ceiling (despite the fact that I change the intake filters monthly). Stanley Steamer advertises heavily here but I don't know if they're any good or not. To my knowledge, the ducts haven't been cleaned since the house was built (1969). Thanks - Boom
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Post by leonski on May 11, 2023 16:13:15 GMT -5
I'm sure you mentioned it, but where are you moving to? That's a good question... My daughter, son in law, and two grandsons live in Arlington, MA. But we're not sure if we want to deal with Taxachusetts' taxes, so we may choose a nearby state with rail into Boston. The other question (both wife and I being born and raised in the South) is whether we'll tolerate northern winter weather. To find out, we'll likely rent for a year or two to try out the climate. Not to our liking? Back home to a southern state! Another option is to be snow-birds. North in the summer and south in the winter. So things are unsettled. We do want to get out of Louisiana for a number of reasons: - Likelihood of increasingly strong hurricanes
- Increasing poverty and crime
- Decline in educational levels
- Strong decline in the quality of State government
- Prevalence of homelessness and mentally ill on the streets
Some of these things could be cured. But some couldn't. People move from the NORTH to the SOUTH for a number of reasons. Florida Taxation and other laws. Followed by some other places with simply NICER weather than the north tier of states. But they Frequently move part way back. Tennesseee? Or perhaps South Carolina. These people are known as 'HALFBACKS'. Move all the way DOWN than 'Half Way Back'....... You, sir, are going the WRONG WAY. And I can assure you that winter, if a bad one, is NOT for the faint of heart or those without neighbor kids to pay to do the snow shoveling. Awful. And DRIVING is an entire new skillset in that crap. I just bought an AWD auto which I may never use for those conditions, but it is a bunch safer in rain / or mayhaps up in Big Bear? ANY place you choose to move with have EXTENSIVE Demographic and other data online. You need to start 'mining' such data. For example? A buddy of mine moved to Tennessee. I gave it brief thought. But places like Memphis and Knoxville are crime-ridden. Here is an example map from which you can branch out. All SORTS of stats and data are available for where you may want to move. Do NOT trust realtors whose job it is to SELL HOMES since they get the commission and you get robbed. Census Bureau and other sources of information are to be preferred. www.neighborhoodscout.com/tn/memphis/crimeAbove link to just Memphis. Easy to see why I don't want to go THERE..... This is just my OPINION, but you may want to buy a timeshare. 2 weeks, maybe. Spend them a couple months apart and Visit. A week here......than in a couple months another week. Don't forget that Boston, one of your 'target' destinations, had 'The Big Dig' which was one of the most Expensive public works projects ever and caused a mess for over 2 decades. Corrupt? OverBudget? LATE? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_DigEnjoy!
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Post by leonski on May 11, 2023 16:27:24 GMT -5
I see a lighting question above.....
My plan? I had 4x of the 4' fluorescent in the kitchen. A real PIA to get up and change
NOW? I hear they are going to be getting difficult to source and are ALREADY difficult to dispose of.....legally.
One of my pair of fixutres died and I decided after 'swap the bulb' that it was the BALLAST. Maybe 30$ with the 2nd fixture next.
So? Went out and bought LED direct connect to the AC line. I went UP and took fixture apart. Removed ballast and the tombstones....those ceramic ends which hold the pins from the tubular lamps. NEW kit came complete. 2 bulbs, wiring and pre-wired tombstones. electrically? Wire nut to hot. to Neutral and Ground. First one took me too long. about 90 minutes, since I had never had one apart before and I didn't know how EASY it was (nearly tooless) to remove most of the wiring. Ballast was hanging by a Thread. But that was EASY and it all went together quickly and worked the first time.
Brand name 'Toggled' and just over 20$ per boxed pair. comes with tombstones, wiring and decent instructions.....
Next day it took about an hour to do the 2nd fixture.
Wife Freaked Out and DOVE for her SunGlasses. I bought 5k color temp, IIRC and they are 2000 lumens EACH. but more efficient since the bulb goes in and has a small built-in reflector. I'd guess about 1/2 or less the power consumption of the bulbs I removed.
I doubt I'll EVER have to revisit this mess.
OH! LED tubes come in 3 or 4 flavors. Some NEED or are compatible with ballast, others not.
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