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Post by tropicallutefisk on May 24, 2024 8:47:54 GMT -5
It's been a long time since I've owned a Yamaha product, but from my experience, they were reliable, sounded good, and accomplished the task. I would not hesitate to give them a shot. I loved my Yamaha 2075 AVR. Sounded great and just simply did what was asked of it. Only abandoned it because I went the processor/external amp route and found a good deal on the Marantz. I do like the Marantz for HT, but the Yamaha 2075 in 2 channel sounded much better.
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Post by SteveH on May 24, 2024 9:09:24 GMT -5
I unplugged the mini DisplayPort-HDMI adapter from the NUC - the hum is gone. Apparently, the HDMI ground plane of the NUC was at a different voltage than that of the cable box (connected to the TV via HDMI). About two years ago, that same issue kicked my ass for over a week. The absolute worst part is trying to get behind all the gear to monkey around with interconnects. The RG-6 cable system was poorly grounded at the ground rod where the utilities enter the house and I also added ground wires from the cable splitters in the attic to house electrical ground. The cable system was also the last thing I checked, ain't that something? I put so much time into this, I made a tutorial video for others. If you ever get bored, check it out youtu.be/7SHQK7UZ_Ig
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Post by Boomzilla on May 24, 2024 9:53:11 GMT -5
About two years ago, that same issue kicked my ass for over a week. Then I don't feel so bad about fighting it for a few days. The absolute worst part is trying to get behind all the gear to monkey around with interconnects. WORD! The RG-6 cable system was poorly grounded at the ground rod where the utilities enter the house and I also added ground wires from the cable splitters in the attic to house electrical ground. The cable system was also the last thing I checked, ain't that something? As Justin Wilson (famous Cajun humorist) said: "Great mines, dey tink alike!" I put so much time into this, I made a tutorial video for others. If you ever get bored, check it out youtu.be/7SHQK7UZ_IgYou're a gentleman and a scholar, SteveH!
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Post by Boomzilla on May 24, 2024 9:56:34 GMT -5
Two channel only or full blown (almost) HT? Both? At this time, I'm expecting my usage to be 80% two channel listening and 20% movies. As of now, I've no center channel or surround speakers, but maybe in the future...
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Post by Boomzilla on May 24, 2024 10:33:42 GMT -5
I got up to make breakfast for myself & my wife this morning. The first egg I broke had two yolks! First time in my life that happened. So I broke a second egg and it ALSO had two yolks!
Per Google, the odds of a chicken egg having two yolks are one in a thousand. So the likelihood of randomly getting two in a row is one in a million. I should go buy a lottery ticket!
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Post by leonski on May 25, 2024 0:45:36 GMT -5
Bought that LOTTO yet?
Wife had a 'feeling' years ago to buy a ticket. But didn't. Turns out the winner was from a store she probably would have bought the ticket at........
When something like 2X Double-Yolkers in a row happens, you'd best LISTEN...
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Post by Boomzilla on May 29, 2024 10:24:30 GMT -5
I had a ground loop between the Cox Cable box & my stereo. It was getting back to my NUC through the HDMI connection. I bought a USB ground loop isolator on Amazon to try: www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXDKHNZN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsThe ground-loop isolator WORKS! The only negative is that the back of the NUC is crowded (power plug, display port to HDMI converter, Ethernet cable, USB port). The shoulders of the ground loop eliminator are too wide to plug directly into the NUC. So the USB chain is: AudioQuest Jitterbug (plugs into NUC) + USB isolator (plugs into Jitterbug) + Dragonfly (plugs into USB isolator) + 1/8" stereo headphone plug to dual RCA female jacks (plugs into Dragonfly). This contraption dangles in thin air off the back of the NUC and sags (putting stress on the flimsy NUC USB outlet). So I placed some wooden washers under the Dragonfly to support the output and relieve stress from the actual NUC USB port. Before anyone jumps on me, yes, I know that the AudioQuest Jitterbug does nothing, but I'm using it as a spacer - nothing else (and I bought it used on eBay for virtually nothing). Now I can have audio & video from the NUC at the same time. YouTube, anyone? So, the ground loop isolator was DEFINITELY worth the $$.
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on May 29, 2024 16:09:17 GMT -5
Just for the record... HDMI is quite often the way ground noise finds its way into a system. (Especially with cable boxes and various satellite dishes.) Another common issue is that the power supplies in many computers are often quite noisy... or have noisy grounds. Technically speaking that is a "USB galvanic isolator". It isolates both the ground and power between USB devices... (It actually includes a fully isolated power supply regenerator circuit.) They work well at eliminating ground and power supply noise for USB-powered devices. (Specifically they work VERY well at eliminating the noise you get when you connect a USB-powered DAC between a computer and an AC-powered audio system) The one you got supports up to "full speed USB" but not "high-speed USB"... and has limited current capabilities... (If you run into any of those limitations there are more expensive models that support high-speed USB and higher current.) Incidentally, if you're worried about stress on the connectors, just pick up one of these: www.amazon.com/CLAVOOP-Extension-Extender-Compatible-Keyboard/dp/B0BVGZZSBXI had a ground loop between the Cox Cable box & my stereo. It was getting back to my NUC through the HDMI connection. I bought a USB ground loop isolator on Amazon to try: www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXDKHNZN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsThe ground-loop isolator WORKS! The only negative is that the back of the NUC is crowded (power plug, display port to HDMI converter, Ethernet cable, USB port). The shoulders of the ground loop eliminator are too wide to plug directly into the NUC. So the USB chain is: AudioQuest Jitterbug (plugs into NUC) + USB isolator (plugs into Jitterbug) + Dragonfly (plugs into USB isolator) + 1/8" stereo headphone plug to dual RCA female jacks (plugs into Dragonfly). This contraption dangles in thin air off the back of the NUC and sags (putting stress on the flimsy NUC USB outlet). So I placed some wooden washers under the Dragonfly to support the output and relieve stress from the actual NUC USB port. Before anyone jumps on me, yes, I know that the AudioQuest Jitterbug does nothing, but I'm using it as a spacer - nothing else (and I bought it used on eBay for virtually nothing). Now I can have audio & video from the NUC at the same time. YouTube, anyone? So, the ground loop isolator was DEFINITELY worth the $$.
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Post by Boomzilla on May 30, 2024 13:46:43 GMT -5
And just a FYI - Having the ADUM3160 ground loop interrupter in my system has turned the AudioQuest Dragonfly Red into a radically better sounding DAC! Not only has the hum departed, but apparently the +5VDC coming out of my NUC was really dirty. Having the ground loop interrupter in the USB chain has changed the sound of my Dragonfly significantly. It is audibly quieter, more dynamic, and has more delicacy on quieter passages. These are not subtle changes either - my wife (normally totally uninterested in my audio hobby) even noticed. Suddenly the Dragonfly sounds like a 5x to 10x more expensive DAC. From what KeithL says, the sonic benefits I got happened primarily because my DAC lacks its own power supply and relies on the USB port to power it. You probably wouldn't get such a big benefit using an AC-powered DAC, but since the ground loop interruptors are so cheap, it might be worthwhile to try one? Boom
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Post by Boomzilla on May 31, 2024 5:57:54 GMT -5
And an audio amigo just pointed out to me that ground loop interruptors are available for the incoming coaxial cable connections. If this works, it allows me to use my Anthem MRX300 AVR as a stereo integrated amplifier. All other equipment I have could be routed to the AVR with a single ARC-HDMI connection to the TV. The Samsung TV remote is wretched, and wife refuses to use it. The Anthem remote is far easier to navigate. Additionally, the Anthem has bass management, and internal DACs that are supposed to be equal to my current Dragonfly Red. Should I desire a center channel speaker or room correction in the future, use of the Anthem also allows that. I've looked at the setup video for the Anthem's room correction again. I don't think it would be of much use to me right now, but the Anthem calibration microphone looks suspiciously like my UMIK-1. IF I can successfully use my existing UMIK-1 microphone for Anthem calibration, then I might try it out. Otherwise, it isn't worth the $50 that an Anthem calibration kit costs on eBay. But IF the UMIK and Anthem microphones are functionally identical, one can get a new Anthem calibrated microphone (and tripod) for $50 instead of the $109 that Amazon charges for a genuine UMIK (with no stand). I'll let y'all know if I try it out.
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on May 31, 2024 6:37:52 GMT -5
A coaxial ground isolator should work with your cable system... but the requirements, and the specs on the isolators, do vary. (So a given one may not work with a given cable system... if it doesn't work you may find that certain channels no longer work of start "getting a weak signal".)
ALL calibrated microphones require a matching calibration file in order to provide accurate results. The only catch with ones that "go with specific products" is that sometimes the calibration file that goes with them is hard-coded into the product. So, even if it works electrically, that microphone won't be accurate with a different product, and a different microphone won't be accurate with that product.
(The accuracy of calibrated microphones without their calibration file varies quite widely... and even "good" ones may be pretty far off without it.)
And an audio amigo just pointed out to me that ground loop interruptors are available for the incoming coaxial cable connections. If this works, it allows me to use my Anthem MRX300 AVR as a stereo integrated amplifier. All other equipment I have could be routed to the AVR with a single ARC-HDMI connection to the TV. The Samsung TV remote is wretched, and wife refuses to use it. The Anthem remote is far easier to navigate. Additionally, the Anthem has bass management, and internal DACs that are supposed to be equal to my current Dragonfly Red. Should I desire a center channel speaker or room correction in the future, use of the Anthem also allows that. I've looked at the setup video for the Anthem's room correction again. I don't think it would be of much use to me right now, but the Anthem calibration microphone looks suspiciously like my UMIK-1. IF I can successfully use my existing UMIK-1 microphone for Anthem calibration, then I might try it out. Otherwise, it isn't worth the $50 that an Anthem calibration kit costs on eBay. But IF the UMIK and Anthem microphones are functionally identical, one can get a new Anthem calibrated microphone (and tripod) for $50 instead of the $109 that Amazon charges for a genuine UMIK (with no stand). I'll let y'all know if I try it out.
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on May 31, 2024 6:41:05 GMT -5
It's also common for those ground connections to get damaged over time. I recall one case where the customer had a burglar alarm installed...
The alarm company used his existing cable ground and failed to re-tighten all the connections properly...
Computers are also quite notorious for having noisy grounds and power...
This is most often a problem if you use a USB-powered DAC, like our Ego+, or a Dragonfly. (One of those USB isolators is usually a perfect solution in that case... so you don't need one of those fancy "power hubs".)
I unplugged the mini DisplayPort-HDMI adapter from the NUC - the hum is gone. Apparently, the HDMI ground plane of the NUC was at a different voltage than that of the cable box (connected to the TV via HDMI). About two years ago, that same issue kicked my ass for over a week. The absolute worst part is trying to get behind all the gear to monkey around with interconnects. The RG-6 cable system was poorly grounded at the ground rod where the utilities enter the house and I also added ground wires from the cable splitters in the attic to house electrical ground. The cable system was also the last thing I checked, ain't that something? I put so much time into this, I made a tutorial video for others. If you ever get bored, check it out youtu.be/7SHQK7UZ_Ig
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Post by Boomzilla on May 31, 2024 10:47:54 GMT -5
My cable ground loop eliminator arrives tomorrow. For now, the Dragonfly is driving my Emotiva PA-1 mono blocks directly.
Once the coaxial cable ground loop eliminator is in place, I'm going to try replacing my PA-1s with the Anthem AVR. Will Roon recognize the AVR's DACs if connected by HDMI? If so, it's off to the races with the Anthem's internal DACs.
If Roon doesn't like the HDMI connection, I'll try the USB to TOSLINK converter & try optical into the Anthem. Will Roon recognize the AVR's DACs if connected by TOSLINK? If so, it's off to the races with the Anthem's internal DACs.
If Roon doesn't like the TOSLINK solution, I'll go back to the Dragonfly DAC and run analog stereo into the Anthem. With "direct" on with the Anthem, I'll lose the option for a center channel and bass management. I can get around that by using a signal splitter on the Dragonfly's outlet and blending the sub(s) in below the full-range satellites.
Whether or not Roon wants to play nicely with the Anthem AVR is the main issue to be addressed. I'm hoping to connect all sources through the Anthem via HDMI and get away from having to use our clunky Samsung remote. The Anthem's remote is more acceptable to my wife, and she could easily switch between Roon audio, Yamaha disc player, Roku, ARC TV audio, and any other inputs we may choose in the future. But before I can even try the "All HDMI" solution I'll have to find out if the coaxial cable ground loop isolator will actually vanish hum for all devices downstream.
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Post by leonski on May 31, 2024 11:59:20 GMT -5
Boom? Wife doesn't like a certain remote? If needed to run some stuff? You MAY consider.....or at least have a look at EITHER of the 2 SOFABATON models. They make an entry U2 (up from U1) and an also improved X1S, Both will allow 'macro' functions and the X1S also has an IR 'blaster' so you can certainly get to all pieces needing IR control.
Both of 'em I think ALSO have Bluetooth connectivity.
My modest system would seem to need only the U2, which also has a full number pad. This means I can direct-enter channels......
You can enter gear EITHER from a database or in a 'learning' mode where you can teach commands if you have a working remote of what you want controlled....
My wife certainly likes the Logitech, but they are now officially out of the market. Even used remotes go for a premium and anything NIB will be very $$$. And with my
Logitech Harmony failing, it need to transition to a new system......
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Post by Boomzilla on May 31, 2024 13:50:19 GMT -5
An audio amigo provided me with these insights:
Based on what you have told me, and what little I have read, I think Roon needs to digitally handshake with the end playback device. This is why the Nucleus only has usb and HDMI outputs; usb and HDMI allow for two-way communications. Roon will not be able to handshake through a usb to optical converter because optical does not allow two-way communications.
Hopefully, Roon will be able to handshake through the display port to HDMI adaptor. Also, hopefully, your Anthem will be recognized by Roon. (You should be able to query Roon customer support about that!)
The downside of connecting the Dragonfly to your (future) subwoofer is that you will only have the sub on music, not on DVDs or video from Cox cable or your Ruko.
My reply to him:
I think you are right. I'll check with Roon to see if it will connect to a HDMI plug that is sourced from a USB adapter. I'm betting not... I also think you're right that TOSLINK, lacking bidirectionality, won't be able to handshake with Roon either. If that's the case, then I'll have to go with the Dragonfly DAC and use the analog inputs of the Anthem AVR. You're also right that the sub won't be active on anything but the Roon source if I use the Dragonfly outputs. Therefore, I'll also have to forego pure direct mode on the Anthem AVR in order to activate the Anthem's bass management.
This is why I so value your input! Now once the Roon Nucleus arrives, I WILL be able to HDMI into the Anthem. That will alleviate the unwanted A/D-D/A conversions. Provided Roon recognizes the Anthem, I'm OK. And then the only thing left to hash out is whether or not the sound quality of a 13-year-old AVR is sufficient to my tastes. If not (Roon won't recognize the Anthem), my choices once again become more nebulous:
* I can replace the Anthem with a newer AVR or networked Stereo integrated that is "Roon tested" or "Roon certified."
* I can try to use converters to change all HDMI sources such as the Roku and TV to analog stereo and then put in a remote-controlled switchbox with ample inputs.
* I can ignore some of my sources (let the TV work with its internal speakers, for example).
I marvel at my ability to get myself into these situations! LOL
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Post by leonski on May 31, 2024 22:18:20 GMT -5
TOSLINK not being bidirectional is a real OPPORTUNITY.
Imagine even some simple uses for the 'upstream' link. Remote codes? Input select? Or any of several other uses.....
IF Curious? Find out from Sofabaton if what gear you own is supported in their database and any time for getting a new piece added by owner request?
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Post by Boomzilla on Jun 1, 2024 14:22:01 GMT -5
Coaxial ground breaker report - works as advertised. With the device in the incoming cable TV line, the audio system has no hum at all. Recommended! Boom PS: After rereading KeithL’s comments, I reconsidered the capabilities (and quality, sometimes conspicuous only in its absence) of the USB ports on my Intel NUC. I ordered the six-inch pigtail USB “extension cord” that Keith hyperlinked in his post. When it arrived, I removed the AudioQuest Jitterbug from the back of my NUC and replaced the Jitterbug with the extension cord. Why? The Jitterbug is an active device and the extension cord isn’t. If the NUC’s ports are so cheap as to need the ground-plane-breaker / power-conditioner to remove noise (and they are), then it’s also possible that their power-supply capabilities are also substandard. By removing the Jitterbug from the USB port, I may get a more stable +5VDC voltage and more current for the actual Dragonfly DAC. On the other hand, if my NUC’s USB ports meet standards, this change may have been totally unnecessary. I did hear an audible sonic improvement when I added the ground-plane-breaker / power-conditioner upstream of the Dragonfly. Will this pigtail for Jitterbug substitution make any difference? I will listen tomorrow and find out. Cheers - Boom
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Post by Boomzilla on Jun 2, 2024 7:54:04 GMT -5
If I live to be 150 years old, I will curse until my dying day and with the last breath in my body the effing "engineer" who invented the HDMI connector! And if anyone is ignorant and obnoxious enough to defend that little bastard, I'll curse them as well.
For the "average consumer," who connects a device by HDMI and never touches the cable or plug for the rest of the device's service life, HDMI is an adequate solution - a barely-adequate one, but at least minimally adequate. But if one needs to move cables or plugs on some frequent (or even infrequent) basis, as I do, the Devil's imps couldn't have devised a more infuriating plug-port connection. So what's wrong with HDMI? I'm so glad you asked!
* Since there is no lock between the plug and port, the two can come apart with the slightest tension on the HDMI cable. * Since there is no standardization for the plug housing, they come in all shapes and sizes, preventing use of any aftermarket locking solution. * The plug can tilt from side to side into the port, preventing some of the connectors from making contact * And worst of all, the plug can sometimes come partially out of the port, giving the impression that the connection is made when it isn't at all.
Should I ever encounter the designer of the HDMI interface, you'll undoubtedly get to read about me in your paper or see me on your TV news. I'm not normally a violent man, BUT...
Boomzilla
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Post by leonski on Jun 2, 2024 19:25:59 GMT -5
And I'd ADD?
Orientation can be a PIA upon install, as well. It only goes in ONE WAY.......
Even my CAMERA has a Mini Version of the HDMI and it is just as bad....but I can
control the camera so it is seldom a real problem....
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Post by Boomzilla on Jun 3, 2024 6:21:51 GMT -5
Progress report (for anyone who cares) -
For the time being, I have abandoned my AVR aspirations. I lack a contemporary AVR, a center channel speaker, surround speakers, and a subwoofer. And although I could easily afford to buy them, we’re still trying to get prepared to move and the last thing we need is more stuff to deal with. If it isn’t small, I don’t need it at all…
I think we’re rapidly approaching one of those inflection points in life where everything changes - kind of like going off to college or joining the Army. You think that once you reach adulthood, things become stable (and that they won’t ever significantly change again). And then life pulls the rug from under your feet and suddenly, in many ways, you have to start over again. That happened to me when the company I worked for (24 and a half years) began going bankrupt. I walked into the plant one Friday and was told that my job no longer existed. I was laid off with no pension, no medical insurance, and less than $41k of non-contributory retirement for 24.5 years of service.
Very fortunately for us, my smart and thrifty wife had always insisted that we live below our means and I had a sufficient nest egg to start a successful consulting business that (for an additional 24 years) made us a living. But retirement hasn’t been as advertised, either. Don’t get old, folks - it can be challenging!
Since we will be moving soon, ready or not, a lot of things are up in the air (my music system being the least of them). And although I don’t hope to fade off into the sunset in the immediate future, things definitely look different in the Fall of your life than in the Spring. I’m a man of little wit and less wisdom, but the main thing I’ve learned that I wish I’d known much earlier is “be kind to people.” It costs you little and returns enormous benefits. Those benefits help others, but benefit you far, far more. Courtesy, kindness, and empathy are worth more than gold.
Now you can blow a raspberry at me and be on your way. LOL. But I’d like to offer a heartfelt thanks to all my friends and acquaintances here on the Lounge who have educated me, entertained me, and chided me when I have so richly deserved it. I’m the better for having known all of you.
Cordially Boomzilla aka Glenn Young
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