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Post by Darksky on Sept 5, 2015 23:51:54 GMT -5
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Post by jdubs on Sept 6, 2015 7:45:44 GMT -5
I started to read and realized how long it was so I'll just ask; how did you do the piano black? I was thinking of doing an automotive finish bc/cc using a good adhesion primer to seal the MDF. I realize there are products specifically for piano black, though. |
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Post by Darksky on Sept 6, 2015 10:17:43 GMT -5
The front and back are black Formica. I took the boxes to a cabinet shop and he put the Formica on in an instant. I went with Formica because there is not that much surface area when you remove the openings for the driver and the plate amp. So it doesn't look wavy.
The top is 1/8 inch plexiglass that I cut and glued down. It was surprisingly easy to work. It also has a very durable paper cover on both sides that you peel off when you are finished shaping.
I don't want to hijack this thread any further.
You can revive the old thread or PM me if you have any other questions.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 6, 2015 11:43:58 GMT -5
I started to read and realized how long it was so I'll just ask; how did you do the piano black? I was thinking of doing an automotive finish bc/cc using a good adhesion primer to seal the MDF. I realize there are products specifically for piano black, though. Use something along the lines of poly surfacer or a good high build primer over your bondo on the seams. Allow the primer to sink for a good long while before top coating with base and clear. I did my enclosures and the seams sank after about 8 months. You can't notice it a lot but if you really looks close the lines are there. And after putting $1k worth of pearls and metallics on the boxes they're not getting redone.. |
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Post by jdubs on Dec 4, 2015 5:51:35 GMT -5
Finally pulled the trigger and ordered 2 Stereo Integrity HST-11 subs. I am either going to build sonotube enclosures, or get a pre-made flat pack box. I'll start a build thread once I actually start to build.
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Post by LuisV on Dec 5, 2015 9:48:39 GMT -5
Looking forward to the build process, pictures as well your thoughts on how it sounds..  |
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Post by jdubs on Dec 5, 2015 13:19:47 GMT -5
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2015 14:53:55 GMT -5
You'll definitely need to trim the rear braces. The hst18 is too deep for the 4cuft flatpack as well, guys on avs have been trimming the braces without issue for a while now. www.diysoundgroup.com/ Contact Erich and ask him when he'll be getting more back in stock. Denovo audio is his company, he supplies PE with the flatpacks. |
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Post by jdubs on Dec 8, 2015 11:05:29 GMT -5
You'll definitely need to trim the rear braces. The hst18 is too deep for the 4cuft flatpack as well, guys on avs have been trimming the braces without issue for a while now. www.diysoundgroup.com/ Contact Erich and ask him when he'll be getting more back in stock. Denovo audio is his company, he supplies PE with the flatpacks. Erich replied and said it was about 8.25" depth and I need 10". Trying to decide if it's worth modifying. (EDIT: I sent Erich the technical drawing and he said no dice) I'm still considering the sonotube design; but after talking to my carpenter friend, it will be a pretty involved process to attach, make it airtight, and solid all while maintaining a controlled internal volume! I might be up to it, but I kinda like these boxes with an automotive finish! |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2015 11:25:53 GMT -5
I wouldn't think the sonotube would be too bad. Use some thick adhesive like PL premium or titebond and run some brad nails into the baffles from the outside. Should seal it up good. Sonotube is so ridgid already I don't know how to brace it better. Maybe some round window braces glued and brad nailed the same as the baffles.
Are you a body man? Automotive finishes are quite difficult and expensive without the right tools and materials. But the customization that is available is worth it if you're up to it.
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Post by jdubs on Dec 8, 2015 11:40:39 GMT -5
I wouldn't think the sonotube would be too bad. Use some thick adhesive like PL premium or titebond and run some brad nails into the baffles from the outside. Should seal it up good. Sonotube is so ridgid already I don't know how to brace it better. Maybe some round window braces glued and brad nailed the same as the baffles. Are you a body man? Automotive finishes are quite difficult and expensive without the right tools and materials. But the customization that is available is worth it if you're up to it. Not a body man, but am a car guy and have done a ton of DIY on my cars (up to and including a complete engine/tranny swap and everything involved including accessories, plumbing, and exhaust). I've never painted (other than parts and my dash), but I have sanded and polished. I figure it wouldn't be a huge leap and I could take my time, learn, and buy any tools I needed. Back on the sonotube idea now since Erich shot me down! I'd likely still want to do an automotive finish top and bottom; I'd do fabric through the middle tube. |
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on Dec 8, 2015 14:26:59 GMT -5
Sonotube really doesn't need extra bracing, and adding braces won't gain you much. Sonotube is stiff enough to be very strong, but still has significant internal damping. Because the cylindrical shape is inherently strong, and doesn't have "flex modes" like shapes with flat sides, it really doesn't gain significant strength by adding transverse bracing. In a box with flat surfaces, pressure inside the box tries to make the flat sides flex; in a cylinder, the only way for pressure to move the sides is if it makes the walls of the cylinder expand and contract, which would require the material to stretch and contract; since most materials are far more resistant to stretching or contracting than they are to flexing, this makes the shape inherently much stronger. And, since the sides are pure curves, you have also eliminated all but one of the resonant modes associated with parallel sides. You eliminate the only resonant mode that's left - the "organ pipe" longitudinal mode - by using plenty of stuffing, or make the tube long enough to take advantage of it, and make the one remaining flat side - the end - out of something very strong (which is easy since it's small). I wouldn't think the sonotube would be too bad. Use some thick adhesive like PL premium or titebond and run some brad nails into the baffles from the outside. Should seal it up good. Sonotube is so ridgid already I don't know how to brace it better. Maybe some round window braces glued and brad nailed the same as the baffles. Are you a body man? Automotive finishes are quite difficult and expensive without the right tools and materials. But the customization that is available is worth it if you're up to it. |
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Post by jdubs on Dec 8, 2015 15:04:24 GMT -5
Sonotube really doesn't need extra bracing, and adding braces won't gain you much. Sonotube is stiff enough to be very strong, but still has significant internal damping. Because the cylindrical shape is inherently strong, and doesn't have "flex modes" like shapes with flat sides, it really doesn't gain significant strength by adding transverse bracing. In a box with flat surfaces, pressure inside the box tries to make the flat sides flex; in a cylinder, the only way for pressure to move the sides is if it makes the walls of the cylinder expand and contract, which would require the material to stretch and contract; since most materials are far more resistant to stretching or contracting than they are to flexing, this makes the shape inherently much stronger. And, since the sides are pure curves, you have also eliminated all but one of the resonant modes associated with parallel sides. You eliminate the only resonant mode that's left - the "organ pipe" longitudinal mode - by using plenty of stuffing, or make the tube long enough to take advantage of it, and make the one remaining flat side - the end - out of something very strong (which is easy since it's small). I wouldn't think the sonotube would be too bad. Use some thick adhesive like PL premium or titebond and run some brad nails into the baffles from the outside. Should seal it up good. Sonotube is so ridgid already I don't know how to brace it better. Maybe some round window braces glued and brad nailed the same as the baffles. Are you a body man? Automotive finishes are quite difficult and expensive without the right tools and materials. But the customization that is available is worth it if you're up to it. Yeah, I was really talking about building it solid top and bottom, but I think I have a plan and a good carpenter! No internal bracing, but some polyfill up at the empty space at the top (downfiring design). These drivers require a tiny sealed box, so I won't have much wiggle room. |
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Post by jdubs on Dec 9, 2015 9:50:41 GMT -5
Nick at Stereo Integrity sent me an email update. That's great customer service! They should ship out by the end of the week. I believe mine are all the way to the left. (they look tiny compared to these others!)  |
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