LCSeminole
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Posts: 20,847
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Post by LCSeminole on Aug 18, 2016 21:39:31 GMT -5
KLF-20
Weight: 86.5 lbs. (39.27 kg)
Height: 40.75" (103.51 cm)
Width: 12" (30.5 cm)
Depth: 16" (41 cm)
Airmotiv T1:
Weight: 40.1 pounds
Height: 37-5/8”
Width: 8-3/8”
Depth: 11-5/8”
To be fair, the KLF-20's are just flat out bigger in all measurements, not to mention also has two 10in woofers. I do expect that the speakers that Dan referred to as the new Reference Series that will look like Stealth's on steroids will be even more robust in build and components, which should be more in line with the KLF's size/weight.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2016 2:14:10 GMT -5
Sorry, ............................................................... Not to offend but to offer some constructive suggestions. I owned one of the previous Denon 3000 series AVR's. The pre/pro IMO is very good but the newer model 3000 series amps like the X3200 are rather week on the low impedance like the 4 ohm Emo speakers (this is the same for all AVR's in the last 10-12 years or so) (note the 3200 weighs only 24.5 lbs). This level AVR 12 years ago were strong into 4 ohms and were much heavier due to a beafy amp. The 105 watts is with only two channels operating into 8 ohms (rather than the all channels operating such as separate power amp are measured..... the 3200 probably is about 75 watts per ch /8 ohms with all channels). Denon no longer even lists a 6 or 4 ohms spec. There is a good reason for that, be careful running the 3200 into the 4 ohm Emo's at very high dynamic levels as the amp might overheat, distort/clip or even shut down at times.. At lower levels you should have no problems (or with honest 8 ohm speakers) and I only mention this so you might be aware of the 4 ohm deficiency and possibly consider in the future an Emo amp that is very stable into 4 ohms for the best dynamic volume output with these speakers. Also setting the crossover to 120Hz is way too high. It should be about 70-80Hz for the T1's and I'm guessing you used Audyssey which gave that setting. Note that Audyssey makes frequent errors including designating way too many speakers as "full range." Your T1's plus the other speaker should all be set to "small.' This has nothing to do with the size of the speaker but properly re-directs the lower bass below the crossover points to the powered sub along with the (+10dB) LFE signal. This will also take some of the load off your AVR amp in driving the mains low bass frequencies. Your lower bass from 80Hz prox and down will sound much more clean and less boomy. This depends on your having a very good sub(s). The upcoming Emo sub might be a good choice. Otherwise I suggest you look at the online direct sub dealers for great subs and prices no local sub dealer can get even come close to. Check out HSU, Outlaw Audio (HSU clone), SVS, Power Sound Audio and Rythmik, don't skimp on the sub, $500-$600 and up is a good place to begin. If you do movies at reference levels a great sub will make a world of difference. Very few towers are effective below about 60-80Hz compared to an excellent sub. Running them simultaneously in the lower bass (with the towers at full range) will make for boomy and less than ultra clean bass. RE: Atmos. I'm not a fan of Atmos for home HT systems. It is fine for commercial large/high ceiling theaters. For homes it's just the latest " improvement which everyone must have." to make new money like 3D and 4K which is only a very slight improvement. In the last few years the industry has brought out new stuff to make folks think their current system is no longer any good. My solution for Atmos is to make sure your surround speakers are up high on the wall, like 2 or more feet above ear level and not pointed directly at your ears! Surround speakers ideally are a mix of some direct sound and mostly diffuse non-direct ambient sounds. That makes the surround track most realistic. One of the supposed reasons for Atmos is to enhance overhead effects. I have my Emo ERD-1's up about 7 feet on my 8.5 foot rear wall. (side walls are ideal but in your and my case the rear wall is fine/necessary). They sound great for music/movie multi-channel surround and also excellent for overhead special effects. In hind sight, the E1's might have been ideal for you on the wall but I would definitely get the B1's up higher with wall stands/brackets for a big improvement and no Atmos IMO needed. As you noted, your one T1 is way too close to the side wall/corner but there is little you can do in the your room except try to manually set the EQ's so the the left and right speakers sound as identical as possible as well as to the C1.. Again, no intention to criticize your system but to suggest some positive ideas for improvement. All the best with your system. Chuck  (The two X's is prox where I would place the two surrounds or even 6" higher. Yours on the stands are too wide and close to your ears. If you leave them as is then leave them far apart like you have them so they are pointed to the side of your heads or tilted up some over your heads with shims.)  www.amazon.com/Wiremold-C10-Cordmate-Channel-White/dp/B000BVXW08(Are paintable and work great for hiding wire up the walls....wife approved.) |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2016 2:46:12 GMT -5
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Post by rbk123 on Aug 19, 2016 8:32:31 GMT -5
More awkward than heavy I'd imagine. Could be real tough if he's got T-Rex arms..... |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2016 10:09:06 GMT -5
chuck...if you think Atmos and 4k are only very slight improvements you havent experienced them properly setup in a home theater (im talking a dedicated room with a large 4k projection image)
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Post by pedrocols on Aug 19, 2016 11:30:08 GMT -5
chuck...if you think Atmos and 4k are only very slight improvements you havent experienced them properly setup in a home theater (im talking a dedicated room with a large 4k projection image) I see that you have fallen victim of the sorround sound niche.... |
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Post by adaboy on Aug 19, 2016 11:31:14 GMT -5
Sorry, ............................................................... Not to offend but to offer some constructive suggestions. I owned one of the previous Denon 3000 series AVR's. The pre/pro IMO is very good but the newer model 3000 series amps like the X3200 are rather week on the low impedance like the 4 ohm Emo speakers (this is the same for all AVR's in the last 10-12 years or so) (note the 3200 weighs only 24.5 lbs). This level AVR 12 years ago were strong into 4 ohms and were much heavier due to a beafy amp. The 105 watts is with only two channels operating into 8 ohms (rather than the all channels operating such as separate power amp are measured..... the 3200 probably is about 75 watts per ch /8 ohms with all channels). Denon no longer even lists a 6 or 4 ohms spec. There is a good reason for that, be careful running the 3200 into the 4 ohm Emo's at very high dynamic levels as the amp might overheat, distort/clip or even shut down at times.. At lower levels you should have no problems (or with honest 8 ohm speakers) and I only mention this so you might be aware of the 4 ohm deficiency and possibly consider in the future an Emo amp that is very stable into 4 ohms for the best dynamic volume output with these speakers. Also setting the crossover to 120Hz is way too high. It should be about 70-80Hz for the T1's and I'm guessing you used Audyssey which gave that setting. Note that Audyssey makes frequent errors including designating way too many speakers as "full range." Your T1's plus the other speaker should all be set to "small.' This has nothing to do with the size of the speaker but properly re-directs the lower bass below the crossover points to the powered sub along with the (+10dB) LFE signal. This will also take some of the load off your AVR amp in driving the mains low bass frequencies. Your lower bass from 80Hz prox and down will sound much more clean and less boomy. This depends on your having a very good sub(s). The upcoming Emo sub might be a good choice. Otherwise I suggest you look at the online direct sub dealers for great subs and prices no local sub dealer can get even come close to. Check out HSU, Outlaw Audio (HSU clone), SVS, Power Sound Audio and Rythmik, don't skimp on the sub, $500-$600 and up is a good place to begin. If you do movies at reference levels a great sub will make a world of difference. Very few towers are effective below about 60-80Hz compared to an excellent sub. Running them simultaneously in the lower bass (with the towers at full range) will make for boomy and less than ultra clean bass. RE: Atmos. I'm not a fan of Atmos for home HT systems. It is fine for commercial large/high ceiling theaters. For homes it's just the latest " improvement which everyone must have." to make new money like 3D and 4K which is only a very slight improvement. In the last few years the industry has brought out new stuff to make folks think their current system is no longer any good. My solution for Atmos is to make sure your surround speakers are up high on the wall, like 2 or more feet above ear level and not pointed directly at your ears! Surround speakers ideally are a mix of some direct sound and mostly diffuse non-direct ambient sounds. That makes the surround track most realistic. One of the supposed reasons for Atmos is to enhance overhead effects. I have my Emo ERD-1's up about 7 feet on my 8.5 foot rear wall. (side walls are ideal but in your and my case the rear wall is fine/necessary). They sound great for music/movie multi-channel surround and also excellent for overhead special effects. In hind sight, the E1's might have been ideal for you on the wall but I would definitely get the B1's up higher with wall stands/brackets for a big improvement and no Atmos IMO needed. As you noted, your one T1 is way too close to the side wall/corner but there is little you can do in the your room except try to manually set the EQ's so the the left and right speakers sound as identical as possible as well as to the C1.. Again, no intention to criticize your system but to suggest some positive ideas for improvement. All the best with your system. Chuck (The two X's is prox where I would place the two surrounds or even 6" higher. Yours on the stands are too wide and close to your ears. If you leave them as is then leave them far apart like you have them so they are pointed to the side of your heads or tilted up some over your heads with shims.) www.amazon.com/Wiremold-C10-Cordmate-Channel-White/dp/B000BVXW08(Are paintable and work great for hiding wire up the walls....wife approved.) Great post! If he is running Audyssey then the LFE Should be set to 120Hz, per Audyssey. There is information for LFE that high in the frequency response. As far as normal speaker crossover 80Hz should be just fine, or tuned to taste. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2016 12:48:51 GMT -5
Technically the LFE channel starts rolling off very quickly at above 80Hz and hits a brick wall with zero sound at 120Hz. In a properly produced 5.1 movie there is very little LFE signal between 80Hz and 120Hz. The purpose of the LFE channel (the .1 part of 5.1) is to handle the +10db's loud special effects such as explosions down way below 80Hz and even below 20Hz. There should be very little sound above 80Hz. The crossover should refer only to what frequency the mains crossover to the sub for the lower bass (the LFE is in the separate .1 channel)
Unfortunately, many sound recording engineers don't know this and that goes for many manufacturers of pre/pro equipment and their bass management procedures are confusing to the users. Setting the mains at "full range" is a mistake which further complicates the matter. Now some use the LFE in music just because it us there and they think I might as well use it. The only reasonable purpose for it in multi-channel (5.1 plus) music that even uses the LFE track would be for extra loud very low tones like maybe for a loud pipe organ recording. The LFE track was designed for movies!
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Post by teaman on Aug 19, 2016 15:00:29 GMT -5
Just thinking aloud. Why would anyone opt for the E2 with the folded ribbon and 4 inch for $229 when they could have the same speakers powered wth an internal amp for roughly $60 more?
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hemster
Global Moderator
Particle Manufacturer
...still listening... still watching
Posts: 51,950
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Post by hemster on Aug 19, 2016 15:07:42 GMT -5
Just thinking aloud. Why would anyone opt for the E2 with the folded ribbon and 4 inch for $229 when they could have the same speakers powered wth an internal amp for roughly $60 more? I sure wouldn't. |
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Post by rbk123 on Aug 19, 2016 15:22:15 GMT -5
Just thinking aloud. Why would anyone opt for the E2 with the folded ribbon and 4 inch for $229 when they could have the same speakers powered wth an internal amp for roughly $60 more? Which one is the E2 or did you mean the E1? |
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Post by teaman on Aug 19, 2016 15:44:30 GMT -5
Just thinking aloud. Why would anyone opt for the E2 with the folded ribbon and 4 inch for $229 when they could have the same speakers powered wth an internal amp for roughly $60 more? Which one is the E2 or did you mean the E1? Sorry you are correct, the E1. |
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bootman
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Post by bootman on Aug 19, 2016 15:58:38 GMT -5
Just thinking aloud. Why would anyone opt for the E2 with the folded ribbon and 4 inch for $229 when they could have the same speakers powered wth an internal amp for roughly $60 more? Maybe becasue say a XPA-5 is better than the built in amp?  |
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Post by rbk123 on Aug 19, 2016 21:16:46 GMT -5
Sorry you are correct, the E1. Cool, just wanted to make sure which speakers you were referring to. IMO, it's an apples/oranges comparison. The E1's are meant to be used as rear surrounds and so hung on a wall but shallow so as not to be obtrusive. They probably are designed to be more diffuse as well for surround use. All of this is just my understanding from the brief mentioning of them in the CES videos, though. If it were apples to apples, I'd rather power them with my own (higher end) amp and have longer speaker cable runs, then the built in amps with longer interconnect runs. I'm not big on powered speakers though, so this is more like me liking red velvet cake and you preferring carrot cake. You wouldn't be wrong for wanting the powered ones. |
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lukeh
Minor Hero
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Post by lukeh on Aug 19, 2016 22:01:45 GMT -5
Sorry, ............................................................... Not to offend but to offer some constructive suggestions. I owned one of the previous Denon 3000 series AVR's. The pre/pro IMO is very good but the newer model 3000 series amps like the X3200 are rather week on the low impedance like the 4 ohm Emo speakers (this is the same for all AVR's in the last 10-12 years or so) (note the 3200 weighs only 24.5 lbs). This level AVR 12 years ago were strong into 4 ohms and were much heavier due to a beafy amp. The 105 watts is with only two channels operating into 8 ohms (rather than the all channels operating such as separate power amp are measured..... the 3200 probably is about 75 watts per ch /8 ohms with all channels). Denon no longer even lists a 6 or 4 ohms spec. There is a good reason for that, be careful running the 3200 into the 4 ohm Emo's at very high dynamic levels as the amp might overheat, distort/clip or even shut down at times.. At lower levels you should have no problems (or with honest 8 ohm speakers) and I only mention this so you might be aware of the 4 ohm deficiency and possibly consider in the future an Emo amp that is very stable into 4 ohms for the best dynamic volume output with these speakers. Hmm, Interesting information My Denon manual does have the 6/8 ohm rating listed, the site list something similar but it would seem that you are right. I could have sworn I saw the 4 ohm ratings somewhere. I've certainly been looking at emotive pre/pros and amps though. Not sure when I'll have the green to make that jump yet since I'd want to go at least 7.2. With the Emotiva gear I imagine I'd have pickup something like the XPA-1 and the XPA-3 for a fully setup so that might be a ways off. I had a Yamaha Aventage RX-A730 prior to this Denon but I just didn't like the sound quality personally. Maybe it was the processing but I always found I was fiddling with something on one speaker or a another. I just couldn't find the spot that made me happy. I generally don't exceed a volume level of about 60 or so though. That's almost to much for the space I am in right now though it sounds great at that level and I don't think I've heard any clipping or seen any notifications on the unit. Rated output: Front: 105 W + 105 W (8 Ω/ohms, 20 Hz – 20 kHz with 0.08 % T.H.D.) 135 W + 135 W (6 Ω/ohms, 1 kHz with 0.7 % T.H.D.) Center: 105 W (8 Ω/ohms, 20 Hz – 20 kHz with 0.08 % T.H.D.) 135 W (6 Ω/ohms, 1 kHz with 0.7 % T.H.D.) Surround: 105 W + 105 W (8 Ω/ohms, 20 Hz – 20 kHz with 0.08 % T.H.D.) 135 W + 135 W (6 Ω/ohms, 1 kHz with 0.7 % T.H.D.) Surround back: 105 W + 105 W (8 Ω/ohms, 20 Hz – 20 kHz with 0.08 % T.H.D.) 135 W + 135 W (6 Ω/ohms, 1 kHz with 0.7 % T.H.D.) Based on the quality of the speakers I'm definitely sold in the Emotiva brand at this point. They have been fantastic musically and the few movies I've watched seemed to have a bigger sound stage. I'll poke around some of those sites for subs when I get some time to look around here in a bit. Audyessy did set the cross over automatically. The sub itself goes all the way up to 120hz for cross over which I imagine is likely for speakers it would power directly but I hadn't given it much thought honestly. Most of my audio engineering experience in a past life was with very large equipment and vertically expanding systems, not so much home audio. I did some work in studio for a time but not much before I decided contract work just wasn't where I wanted to stay my whole life though I do miss it and think about it often. Maybe one day it will drag me back! Setting up sound stages and doing live mixes were such a rush especially when everything was clicking! The speakers themselves are handling the low end pretty well on their own but if what you say about the amp 4 ohm handling is true then it's likely in my interest to offload more of the low end stuff to the LFE. Since the information I thought I read a month or two ago seems to have escaped me. I'd rather error on the side of safety. I know the crossovers are a roll off from where they are set usually by about 20 or 30hz in most cases. Admittedly swapping out the speaker size, adjusting the cross overs to 80hz, and setting the LPF on the LFE to 80hz has made a pretty dramatic difference in the sound overall. The bass is indeed less boomy and much cleaner even with the sub I have. I feel like the meds and highs have an even better presence set this way too. That might be a product of the amp power availability. I wonder if I should pop the LPF up some for the LFE channel or just leave it at 80hz matched with the cross over. I guess it doesn't matter much where the LPF is set if things are rolling off to the LFE at 80hz so long as it's not below the roll off point. So maybe I should push the LPF back up to 90 or 100hz. I'm undecided on the whole Atmos and DTS:X thing for the moment. I do see the new audio encoding options as a good thing. I'm a technologist at heart so new technologies, good or bad tend to lead somewhere interesting even if it's not right now. I think the quality of the atoms speakers I have don't do things justice right now though admittedly that is why I bought them. I wanted to see how things were different without investing a kidney. I've heard some pretty good effects and performance from Atmos in professional setups but I have yet to be sold on the whole thing. Yea I'm a bit space strapped in terms of placement. I might consider pushing the surrounds up more and closing them in as you've suggested but I'm not sure how much longer I'm going to be here. I've started hunting for a house so the space issue might go away in the next year or so. I could push the stands up higher and give that a shot though I don't think I can hit the two feet mark with them. I will check out the amazon link you posted for wire channels though either way. (No wife approval needed, I'm not quite there yet!  ) Right now without touching anything in regards to the EQ it seems like Audyeesy did a decent job with EQ so the two towers and center do sound pretty close to each other at least with test tones they do. Things sound pretty balanced across the front. No offense taken, in fact it's nice to get some feedback since I really just dived into home/cinema audio systems without much research a year or 2 ago. That is pretty unusual for me but I just hadn't had time to get back to it while becoming a security specialist on Hadoop clusters (Big Data) being used by businesses everywhere even ones you don't realize. (I'm the guy they call when it's broken. yay me!) |
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Post by teaman on Aug 19, 2016 22:12:57 GMT -5
Sorry you are correct, the E1. Cool, just wanted to make sure which speakers you were referring to. IMO, it's an apples/oranges comparison. The E1's are meant to be used as rear surrounds and so hung on a wall but shallow so as not to be obtrusive. They probably are designed to be more diffuse as well for surround use. All of this is just my understanding from the brief mentioning of them in the CES videos, though. If it were apples to apples, I'd rather power them with my own (higher end) amp and have longer speaker cable runs, then the built in amps with longer interconnect runs. I'm not big on powered speakers though, so this is more like me liking red velvet cake and you preferring carrot cake. You wouldn't be wrong for wanting the powered ones. I totally understand. I just think for $70 difference and the fact that you get two amps included I cannot imagine the better value being with the passives. I would guess by seeing this difference Emotiva could have sold the passive E1 for considerably less than they are.....meaning if you are thinking about buying the passives they will probably be going on sale. |
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Post by khurram on Aug 19, 2016 22:13:53 GMT -5
Got my T1s home all by myself. Carrying them was a bit of a workout but it was manageable without much huffing and puffing. I'm going to unbox them in a few hours and try them out. Keeping my fingers crossed as I'm going to compare the sound quality with my ELAC UB5 (yikes).
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Post by teaman on Aug 19, 2016 22:18:05 GMT -5
Got my T1s home all by myself. Carrying them was a bit of a workout but it was manageable without much huffing and puffing. I'm going to unbox them in a few hours and try them out. Keeping my fingers crossed as I'm going to compare the sound quality with my ELAC UB5 (yikes). Glad to hear you got them home big boy. If I managed to carry my (95lbs each) JBL SVA-2100 pair through an apartment building and down three flights of stairs to my truck I thought you could manage these. Keep us posted once they are set up and let us know what you think. PS....Remember what we all told you about cranking too much through your speakers, no need to blow something! |
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Post by khurram on Aug 19, 2016 22:24:01 GMT -5
Got my T1s home all by myself. Carrying them was a bit of a workout but it was manageable without much huffing and puffing. I'm going to unbox them in a few hours and try them out. Keeping my fingers crossed as I'm going to compare the sound quality with my ELAC UB5 (yikes). Glad to hear you got them home big boy. If I managed to carry my (95lbs each) JBL SVA-2100 pair through an apartment building and down three flights of stairs to my truck I thought you could manage these. Keep us posted once they are set up and let us know what you think. PS....Remember what we all told you about cranking too much through your speakers, no need to blow something! Thanks Yep, I got that part. I had found a good spot in the volume where the speakers got nice and loud without any trouble or heating of the receiver. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2016 23:22:50 GMT -5
105 W + 105 W (8 Ω/ohms, 20 Hz – 20 kHz with 0.08 % T.H.D.) 135 W + 135 W ( 6 Ω/ohms, 1 kHz with 0.7 % T.H.D.) .......... The sub itself goes all the way up to 120hz for cross over which I imagine is likely for speakers it would power directly but I hadn't given it much thought honestly....... The speakers themselves are handling the low end pretty well on their own but if what you say about the amp 4 ohm handling is true then it's likely in my interest to offload more of the low end stuff to the LFE. I should pop the LPF up some for the LFE channel or just leave it at 80hz matched with the cross over. I guess it doesn't matter much where the LPF is set if things are rolling off to the LFE at 80hz so long as it's not below the roll off point. So maybe I should push the LPF back up to 90 or 100hzRight now without touching anything in regards to the EQ it seems like Audyeesy did a decent job with EQ so the two towers and center do sound pretty close to each other at least with test tones they do. Things sound pretty balanced across the front. Lukeh, glad you found some improvement with my suggestions. Here are some comments on the parts I bolded/underlined: .......... The 6 Ω/ohms, 1 kHz with 0.7 % T.H.D spec is basically useless for practical purposes. A good THD level is 0.1% or lower. 0.7% THD as they list for 6 ohms is close to 1.0% THD which is considered amp clipping. In other words the amp is very wimpy into even 6 ohms. .......... Denon might have the LFE confused in their manual and on the receiver, I haven't read it. You must mean more of the low end stuff to the LFE sub. I know it is confusing, but the LFE is actually the .1 channel in 5.1 or 7.1. The prep/pro in the Denon if done correctly, should send the LFE channel as is on the disc from 120Hz and down (if there are any tones in the LFE above 120Hz that is wrong!) and combine it with the lower bass you have selected by your sub/main crossover level and send it all to the sub together. Some brands screw this up and subsequently many folks are very confused and think the LFE is the sub channel. The sub channel is the LFE plus the re-directed lower (from the 5 or 7 channels) bass combined. Only one RCA mono input is really necessary on the sub (if you have the sub cross on the pre/pro set to 80Hz or below, since the 80Hz and below is effectively mono (stereo subs below 80Hz is a very common confusion, even here). The reason subs go higher is due to roll off above 80Hz or when matching the sub with speakers like some small bookshelf, small center or small surrounds that need a higher crossover above 80Hz. Since there should be very little info above 80Hz on the LFE channel you could set the LFE at 120Hz or even 80Hz (maybe best). Actually no LFE crossover/filter is necessary if done correctly as the LFE channel filters itself below 120Hz. Be sure to never use the crossover/filter (set it to off or bypass) on the sub panel, that is for an older style system with no bass management in a pre-pro. Powered subs for modern HT systems really only need an input jack (maybe output for daisy chain), phase dial or switch and a volume/gain knob and power switch. Some have there own EQ system, etc. which can be nice. I like to set the cross/filters on both the mains (if not too small) and the sub (good sub(s) at 80Hz. Should be fine for your T1, C1 and B1 and sub. You could try dropping the T1 down to 70Hz but no lower IMO (and perhaps the B1 at 90Hz). I would perhaps go for a better amp and sub before you add a 6th and 7th speakers. Look for a big (and many times heavy) sub for the best performance, the little cube style subs are relatively more expensive and not so good, too complicated to explain now. A high quality 5.1 system IMO is better than a mediocre 7.1 system. It is hard to see the side walls in your photo, but it doesn't look too good for side surrounds (6&7). In a new room you could go for 7.1 with surrounds both on the side walls and on the rear wall. However, this doesn't work too well if the sofa is right up against the back wall. Ideally the side surrounds would be about 90 degrees to the side of the seating area or slight;y back a foot or so and again up high. For a temporary test you might try getting your B1 stands/surrounds up high on some sturdy wood boxes, etc to see how that sounds, right against the rear wall is fine. As far as Audyssey goes I would again be sure it set all 5 speakers at small. Also be sure it's does not make any significant boost in the low bass area. Just a 3dB boost at any frequency will require twice the power, not good in the bass range. I know I've posted lots of info here and some Lounge members will disagree with some of my comments. All the best in your new system! Chuck  Lukeh, sorry, my big mistake! The B1's and E1's are new speakers but I should have noticed. Thanks to Axis for correcting me in a post. The B1 is a rear ported bookshelf speaker and would not be appropriate for against the wall placement as it needs some room behind it, maybe at least 4-6 inches or more. The E1 can be hung directly on the wall since it has a front port. I'm sorry for my error! IMO both side and rear surround speakers should be high up and on the wall. The B1 is only good for on a stand or the leading edge of a shelf or see here: Now if you can find a speaker angle stand/shelf that extends out from the wall about (the B1 is 8.25" deep) 12/13" to maybe 14-15" that would be fine. I would see if you can do this and it is not too protruding. \ Otherwise, I would see if Emotiva might be willing to exchange the B1's for the E1's. You should have 30 day return privilege on the B1's. This would be my best recommendation, going with the E1's. You could also keep the B1's for an excellent small bookshelf system. PS: There are many speaker shelves and mounts that might work for the B1's on the wall. Google for speaker stands and mounts and any other similar wording. www.google.com/search?newwindow=1&q=wall+speaker+mounts&oq=wall+speaker+mounts |
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