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Post by kauai82 on Nov 7, 2016 14:47:04 GMT -5
I have owned several small tube headphone amps. Have not tried the Bravo, but there is another brand called Indeed on ebay that looks like the Bravo but is much better built. This is the first one that I bought a.nd it puts out the power to drive my HiFiman 400 that take a lot of power to get decent volume out of them. It was a little too much bass and I tried a few more but ended up with the Little Dot MKIII that has enough power to drive the HiFiman's and the silky highs and mids that I desire in my headphones. I have also had good luck with a SMSL M6 dac/headphone amp that replaced my Emotiva XDA-2 in my main system. It is a very good dac and a great headphone amp. It runs about $170 dollars. I got the Little Dot MKIII on eBay direct from the factory for $200. Matt |
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Post by KeithL on Nov 7, 2016 17:03:20 GMT -5
I had one of the Indeed amps several years ago - and it worked fine (they have had several different models). Do note, though, that many of the "little tube headphone amps"' you see on eBay and other places are HYBRID amps. This means that they have a tube gain stage followed by a solid state output stage. You will find that MOST amps that use a single tube, and a few that use multiple tubes, are in fact hybrids. While I wouldn't consider this an actual flaw, much of the "tube sound" that people like is caused in part by the output transformer - which hybrid amps don't use. Even some "pure tube" headphone amps don't use a transformer, but they're still using tubes for the output drive, which means they're more likely to sound like you would expect a tube amp to sound. There's also another issue with most of those cute little ones that look like a sandwich of two plastic plates with a circuit board between them..... In order for most tubes to run well, they require plate voltages on the order of several hundred volts. And, conversely, while many tubes can run on plate voltages as low as 12V, they tend not to perform very well at such low voltages. This tends to suggest that any real tube amp where they leave the metal circuit parts exposed where you can touch them generally don't qualify as good designs. The more serious ones like the Little Dot series and many of the Yaqin models are for-real tube amps..... (and they generally use proper voltages - and keep the circuitry safely inside the box where you can't touch it and zap yourself). If you really want to play with that sort of thing, then I would recommend buying one that uses the current equivalent of 12AU7 or 12AX7..... or one of the other very common tube variants.... That way you'll have a huge selection of both new and NOS tubes to try..... I have owned several small tube headphone amps. Have not tried the Bravo, but there is another brand called Indeed on ebay that looks like the Bravo but is much better built. This is the first one that I bought a.nd it puts out the power to drive my HiFiman 400 that take a lot of power to get decent volume out of them. It was a little too much bass and I tried a few more but ended up with the Little Dot MKIII that has enough power to drive the HiFiman's and the silky highs and mids that I desire in my headphones. I have also had good luck with a SMSL M6 dac/headphone amp that replaced my Emotiva XDA-2 in my main system. It is a very good dac and a great headphone amp. It runs about $170 dollars. I got the Little Dot MKIII on eBay direct from the factory for $200. Matt |
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Post by KeithL on Nov 7, 2016 17:11:58 GMT -5
Absolutely.... and it sounds VERY nice. Note that, like many pieces of vintage equipment, the A-100 drives its headphone output from the main outputs through a pair of high quality dropping resistors. This allows it to deliver a lot of punch, and excellent dynamics, even with high impedance phones. You will also find that many headphones may sound a little different - and usually better - on the A-100 than they do on other headphone amps. (And, while the headphone outputs on vintage equipment that's wired this way may be a bit noisy, and have some extra distortion, the A-100 was especially optimized to be super quiet and super clean.) The A-100 also has a very special option that allows you to drive low efficiency planar headphones directly from the main outputs without the resistors. (You have to put on a pair of internal jumpers to enable this option.) if you were even considering spending for a "high powered headphone amp" then you really owe it to yourself to try the A-100.  Also note that the little $50 "tube amp" is a hybrid (which means it has a tube in it - but the output is solid state), and it now seems to have accumulated some downright horrible reviews. There are a lot of sub-$100 headphone amps around.... and some of them are even pretty good.... but don't get carried away.  KeithL, What about the new A-100? Have you given this a listen with headphones yet? |
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Nov 7, 2016 18:58:21 GMT -5
Thanks Keith, I have one out for delivery by UPS right now and I'm patiently waiting. I've been waiting on this headphone amp since I bought my Sennheisers a year ago, or more precisely a headphone amp that I know would be able to properly drive my cans. It's nice to know that the A-100 has been "optimized to be super quiet and clean". At $199 I'm thinking this will be one the best deals in the Emotiva lineup. Absolutely.... and it sounds VERY nice. Note that, like many pieces of vintage equipment, the A-100 drives its headphone output from the main outputs through a pair of high quality dropping resistors. This allows it to deliver a lot of punch, and excellent dynamics, even with high impedance phones. You will also find that many headphones may sound a little different - and usually better - on the A-100 than they do on other headphone amps. (And, while the headphone outputs on vintage equipment that's wired this way may be a bit noisy, and have some extra distortion, the A-100 was especially optimized to be super quiet and super clean.) The A-100 also has a very special option that allows you to drive low efficiency planar headphones directly from the main outputs without the resistors. (You have to put on a pair of internal jumpers to enable this option.) if you were even considering spending for a "high powered headphone amp" then you really owe it to yourself to try the A-100. KeithL, What about the new A-100? Have you given this a listen with headphones yet? |
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Nov 7, 2016 19:44:24 GMT -5
Mark: There is something extremely misleading about that article that you should know, which is its title and the claims it is making about the phones that are listed... "10 Best headphones on the market" is so hopelessly misleading that "snake oil" does not even begin to describe it... The Schiit Asgard, for example, is a decent piece of hardware, but to call it "the best," even among "Schitt"'s own stable of headamps would be quite widely off the mark. I'm just sounding a word of caution here, and not attempting to throw the thread of gear. I never believe what I read in article like that, and I don't worry about the title. That's why I asked for thoughts here. I value the opinions of real users here more than a random article. Got a reco for me on one to consider? Thoughts on any in the article? Mark |
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Post by klinemj on Nov 7, 2016 19:47:52 GMT -5
Thanks Keith, I have one out for delivery by UPS right now and I'm patiently waiting. Well, what are you waiting for...hurry up and review the thing for us! I am sitting here waiting very impatiently...(tap, tap, tap...) Mark |
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Post by sahmen on Nov 7, 2016 20:48:09 GMT -5
Mark: There is something extremely misleading about that article that you should know, which is its title and the claims it is making about the phones that are listed... "10 Best headphones on the market" is so hopelessly misleading that "snake oil" does not even begin to describe it... The Schiit Asgard, for example, is a decent piece of hardware, but to call it "the best," even among "Schitt"'s own stable of headamps would be quite widely off the mark. I'm just sounding a word of caution here, and not attempting to throw the thread of gear. I never believe what I read in article like that, and I don't worry about the title. That's why I asked for thoughts here. I value the opinions of real users here more than a random article. Got a reco for me on one to consider? Thoughts on any in the article? Mark The Bottlehead Crack OTL amp is often widely recommended as one of the amps that synergizes optimally with the HD 650... You will need to build it from a kit, which is a process I am thinking you would enjoy: See the basic amplifier kit here : bottlehead.com/product/crack-otl-headphone-amplifier-kit/You might want to add the "speedball" upgrade, because that allegedly takes the experience with Hd 650 to an even higher intoxicating level. The speedball upgrade kit can be found here: bottlehead.com/product/speedball-upgrade-for-crack-amplifier/If you google "Bottlehead Crack with speedball and Sennheiser Hd650," I am sure you will run across several interesting reads. I should normally ask you such preliminary questions as how much you would like to spend, or whether you intend to use a specific DAC with the amp, before making a recommendation, but I think the bottlehead crack with speedball would be a good place to start. |
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Post by vneal on Nov 7, 2016 20:49:22 GMT -5
I like Shiit and Grace headphone amps. I personally would spend under $500.
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Nov 7, 2016 21:10:06 GMT -5
Well I've got the A-100 connected to the RCA outputs from the DC-1 using the Auto Triggering(Audio Signal Sense), source is a Tascam CD-200SB CD/Media Player. I've thrown in a few CD's I'm quite familiar with Billy Joel/Hybrid/Diana Krall/Al DiMeola/Aaron Copland, in other words an array of different types of music. I've not used the jumpers to bypass the resistors on the headphone output as of yet, and already the A-100 has WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more control of my HD600's than the DC-1 had at any and all volume levels. This just makes me wonder what the full speaker output signal will do with even less efficient planar magnetic headphones. KeithL is right, the A-100 is super quiet, noise floor is what I'd say as non-existent, as I can't hear any hiss at all when idle. I'm thinking that the true signal of the transport and DAC are what I'm hearing and that the A-100 is as neutral as all other Emotiva amps I've heard. I believe I'm hearing small nuiances in the music that were there already there but are now more than sufficiently being amplified, thus hearing it more clearly.
The A-100 has by far exceeded my expectations thus far.
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Post by hosko on Nov 7, 2016 21:16:56 GMT -5
What does it look like with the DC1 on top. Black beats Schiit silver in my eyes.
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Nov 7, 2016 21:36:35 GMT -5
Not the greatest picture and sorry for the flash, but this should give you an idea of the DC-1 on top the A-100. Personally I have the DC-1 to the right side of the A-100 for heat breathability(is this even a word?) purposes. The A-100 has been on now for about two hours straight and the top of the unit is actually still cool to the touch. My guess is the A-100 is laughing at the load of the HD600's.  |
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Nov 7, 2016 21:54:04 GMT -5
I never believe what I read in article like that, and I don't worry about the title. That's why I asked for thoughts here. I value the opinions of real users here more than a random article. Got a reco for me on one to consider? Thoughts on any in the article? Mark The Bottlehead Crack OTL amp is often widely recommended as one of the amps that synergizes optimally with the HD 650... You will need to build it from a kit, which is a process I am thinking you would enjoy: See the basic amplifier kit here : bottlehead.com/product/crack-otl-headphone-amplifier-kit/You might want to add the "speedball" upgrade, because that allegedly takes the experience with Hd 650 to an even higher intoxicating level. The speedball upgrade kit can be found here: bottlehead.com/product/speedball-upgrade-for-crack-amplifier/If you google "Bottlehead Crack with speedball and Sennheiser Hd650," I am sure you will run across several interesting reads. I should normally ask you such preliminary questions as how much you would like to spend, or whether you intend to use a specific DAC with the amp, before making a recommendation, but I think the bottlehead crack with speedball would be a good place to start. Interesting, but for a headphone amp, not into a kit. For a main amp, sure. Mark |
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Post by geebo on Nov 7, 2016 23:17:25 GMT -5
Well I've got the A-100 connected to the RCA outputs from the DC-1 using the Auto Triggering(Audio Signal Sense), source is a Tascam CD-200SB CD/Media Player. I've thrown in a few CD's I'm quite familiar with Billy Joel/Hybrid/Diana Krall/Al DiMeola/Aaron Copland, in other words an array of different types of music. I've not used the jumpers to bypass the resistors on the headphone output as of yet, and already the A-100 has WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more control of my HD600's than the DC-1 had at any and all volume levels. This just makes me wonder what the full speaker output signal will do with even less efficient planar magnetic headphones. KeithL is right, the A-100 is super quiet, noise floor is what I'd say as non-existent, as I can't hear any hiss at all when idle. I'm thinking that the true signal of the transport and DAC are what I'm hearing and that the A-100 is as neutral as all other Emotiva amps I've heard. I believe I'm hearing small nuiances in the music that were there already there but are now more than sufficiently being amplified, thus hearing it more clearly. The A-100 has by far exceeded my expectations thus far. Hmm, I wonder how it would perform with my fairly efficient 32 ohm Oppo PM-2s. You got me thinkin' about it... |
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Nov 7, 2016 23:33:32 GMT -5
Well I've got the A-100 connected to the RCA outputs from the DC-1 using the Auto Triggering(Audio Signal Sense), source is a Tascam CD-200SB CD/Media Player. I've thrown in a few CD's I'm quite familiar with Billy Joel/Hybrid/Diana Krall/Al DiMeola/Aaron Copland, in other words an array of different types of music. I've not used the jumpers to bypass the resistors on the headphone output as of yet, and already the A-100 has WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more control of my HD600's than the DC-1 had at any and all volume levels. This just makes me wonder what the full speaker output signal will do with even less efficient planar magnetic headphones. KeithL is right, the A-100 is super quiet, noise floor is what I'd say as non-existent, as I can't hear any hiss at all when idle. I'm thinking that the true signal of the transport and DAC are what I'm hearing and that the A-100 is as neutral as all other Emotiva amps I've heard. I believe I'm hearing small nuiances in the music that were there already there but are now more than sufficiently being amplified, thus hearing it more clearly. The A-100 has by far exceeded my expectations thus far. Hmm, I wonder how it would perform with my fairly efficient 32 ohm Oppo PM-2s. You got me thinkin' about it... $199 is a deal and I bet Loonie would literally hook up your PM-2s so you could hear for yourself! Oh the luxury of living so close!  |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2016 0:21:22 GMT -5
Hmm, I wonder how it would perform with my fairly efficient 32 ohm Oppo PM-2s. You got me thinkin' about it... $199 is a deal and I bet Loonie would literally hook up your PM-2s so you could hear for yourself! Oh the luxury of living so close! I think he is Loonie too!  |
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Post by garbulky on Nov 8, 2016 0:29:33 GMT -5
Ah Jeez LCSeminole . Here I am thinking about the Schiit Jotunheim. Then you throw a wrench with that great review! On one hand it's not balanced. But on the other hand...I don't have a balanced HD600 cable which will likely add a $100 to the Jotunheim's cost making the Mini-x a ready made lower cost solution with lots of power. That's what I've been after....something that can really control those HD600's. I have heard it controlled reasonably well before and it's pretty darn impressive when it is. The treble is no longer laid back, the bass can pound. I've heard both these things but in separate units. One but not the other etc. But overall the improvement is that things don't feel as "stuck" to the driver and instead is liberated in to the soundfield. Will this do it? |
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Nov 8, 2016 5:46:13 GMT -5
Ah Jeez LCSeminole . Here I am thinking about the Schiit Jotunheim. Then you throw a wrench with that great review! On one hand it's not balanced. But on the other hand...I don't have a balanced HD600 cable which will likely add a $100 to the Jotunheim's cost making the Mini-x a ready made lower cost solution with lots of power. That's what I've been after....something that can really control those HD600's. I have heard it controlled reasonably well before and it's pretty darn impressive when it is. The treble is no longer laid back, the bass can pound. I've heard both these things but in separate units. One but not the other etc. But overall the improvement is that things don't feel as "stuck" to the driver and instead is liberated in to the soundfield. Will this do it? At $199 and a great return policy, as well as only 15 lbs so inexpensive as far as return shipping goes, how can you not give it a listen? |
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Post by sahmen on Nov 8, 2016 7:55:21 GMT -5
The Bottlehead Crack OTL amp is often widely recommended as one of the amps that synergizes optimally with the HD 650... You will need to build it from a kit, which is a process I am thinking you would enjoy: See the basic amplifier kit here : bottlehead.com/product/crack-otl-headphone-amplifier-kit/You might want to add the "speedball" upgrade, because that allegedly takes the experience with Hd 650 to an even higher intoxicating level. The speedball upgrade kit can be found here: bottlehead.com/product/speedball-upgrade-for-crack-amplifier/If you google "Bottlehead Crack with speedball and Sennheiser Hd650," I am sure you will run across several interesting reads. I should normally ask you such preliminary questions as how much you would like to spend, or whether you intend to use a specific DAC with the amp, before making a recommendation, but I think the bottlehead crack with speedball would be a good place to start. Interesting, but for a headphone amp, not into a kit. For a main amp, sure. Mark Cool! There are great "non-kit" options out there too, fortunately. Happy hunting. |
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Post by geebo on Nov 8, 2016 8:53:02 GMT -5
Ah Jeez LCSeminole . Here I am thinking about the Schiit Jotunheim. Then you throw a wrench with that great review! On one hand it's not balanced. But on the other hand...I don't have a balanced HD600 cable which will likely add a $100 to the Jotunheim's cost making the Mini-x a ready made lower cost solution with lots of power. That's what I've been after....something that can really control those HD600's. I have heard it controlled reasonably well before and it's pretty darn impressive when it is. The treble is no longer laid back, the bass can pound. I've heard both these things but in separate units. One but not the other etc. But overall the improvement is that things don't feel as "stuck" to the driver and instead is liberated in to the soundfield. Will this do it? At $199 and a great return policy, as well as only 15 lbs so inexpensive as far as return shipping goes, how can you not give it a listen? |
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Post by geebo on Nov 8, 2016 8:55:14 GMT -5
Hmm, I wonder how it would perform with my fairly efficient 32 ohm Oppo PM-2s. You got me thinkin' about it... $199 is a deal and I bet Loonie would literally hook up your PM-2s so you could hear for yourself! Oh the luxury of living so close! Loonie? I'm not going to go out there and ask for Loonie. So are you going to try the direct drive mode? |
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