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Post by leonski on Jan 25, 2018 23:06:20 GMT -5
And different MAY or MAY NOT be 'better'. Kinda-Sorta depends.
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Post by torifile on Jan 26, 2018 0:42:13 GMT -5
I would have recommended the TA-100 in place of your Yamaha AVR, and it's too bad you got the headphone amp as I have two brand new in the box Nuforce HA-200 Class A amps for sale Chad What do you think of the PT-100 + A-100 in place of the AVR and Lyr?
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Post by creimes on Jan 26, 2018 9:49:03 GMT -5
I would have recommended the TA-100 in place of your Yamaha AVR, and it's too bad you got the headphone amp as I have two brand new in the box Nuforce HA-200 Class A amps for sale Chad What do you think of the PT-100 + A-100 in place of the AVR and Lyr? You would have more power for the headphones at a higher cost, though I'm not sure those Sennheiser's would need that kind of power, my buddy has the HD600's and Massdrop HD6XX and he has the Schiit Asgard 2 and Valhalla 2 with good results. I have those two Nuforce HA-200 amps for sale and I may keep one but I'm still only running a pair of Shure SRH440's which for the price sound amazing and they barely need any power as even the Fulla 2 I have can drive them fine, though I am eyeing a pair of Shure SRH1840 cans on Canuck Audio Mart Chad
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Post by torifile on Jan 26, 2018 10:45:10 GMT -5
What do you think of the PT-100 + A-100 in place of the AVR and Lyr? You would have more power for the headphones at a higher cost, though I'm not sure those Sennheiser's would need that kind of power, my buddy has the HD600's and Massdrop HD6XX and he has the Schiit Asgard 2 and Valhalla 2 with good results. I have those two Nuforce HA-200 amps for sale and I may keep one but I'm still only running a pair of Shure SRH440's which for the price sound amazing and they barely need any power as even the Fulla 2 I have can drive them fine, though I am eyeing a pair of Shure SRH1840 cans on Canuck Audio Mart Chad It would actually be cheaper than what I have now. The AVR is new and I could return it ($500+) and the Lyr is easy to resell for around $350. Those emotiva setup would run me a little over $500 total. On another note, does anyone play music through their iPhones or iPads with a PT-100? Does the USB work to play music off a mobile device?
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Post by creimes on Jan 26, 2018 12:14:05 GMT -5
You would have more power for the headphones at a higher cost, though I'm not sure those Sennheiser's would need that kind of power, my buddy has the HD600's and Massdrop HD6XX and he has the Schiit Asgard 2 and Valhalla 2 with good results. I have those two Nuforce HA-200 amps for sale and I may keep one but I'm still only running a pair of Shure SRH440's which for the price sound amazing and they barely need any power as even the Fulla 2 I have can drive them fine, though I am eyeing a pair of Shure SRH1840 cans on Canuck Audio Mart Chad It would actually be cheaper than what I have now. The AVR is new and I could return it ($500+) and the Lyr is easy to resell for around $350. Those emotiva setup would run me a little over $500 total. On another note, does anyone play music through their iPhones or iPads with a PT-100? Does the USB work to play music off a mobile device?You would need to purchase the BTM-1 bluetooth stick from Emotiva as it doesn't come with any of the preamps.
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Post by torifile on Jan 26, 2018 12:48:38 GMT -5
It would actually be cheaper than what I have now. The AVR is new and I could return it ($500+) and the Lyr is easy to resell for around $350. Those emotiva setup would run me a little over $500 total. On another note, does anyone play music through their iPhones or iPads with a PT-100? Does the USB work to play music off a mobile device?You would need to purchase the BTM-1 bluetooth stick from Emotiva as it doesn't come with any of the preamps. I hate Bluetooth. Is there no wired way to do it?
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Post by creimes on Jan 26, 2018 12:51:56 GMT -5
You would need to purchase the BTM-1 bluetooth stick from Emotiva as it doesn't come with any of the preamps. I hate Bluetooth. Is there no wired way to do it? I have an apple TV connected to my Anthem via HDMI and Optical and use airplay from my old iphone 5c
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,261
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Post by KeithL on Jan 26, 2018 15:44:33 GMT -5
The USB input on the PT-100 is a standard USB input, like you would find on a USB DAC. It accepts Stereo PCM USB audio up to 24/96k from any device that is willing to output it. The limitations really depend on the source device. 1) Any computer, including Windows, Apple, and most Linux computers, will send audio directly to the PT-100 (they'll see it as "an external USB sound card"). 2) Many phones, including most newer Android phones, have a standard USB output which supports audio. They will also work - but you might need a specific adapter wire. 3) The basic problem with Apple devices is that most of them are "locked" in such a way that they will ONLY provide a digital audio output to other Apple brand devices. In order to use an iPhone with the PT-100, you would need something that the phone will connect to that will then put out a standard USB audio output. For older iPhones, an "Apple USB to Camera Adapter" should work. For new iPhones, you would want the "Apple Lightning To USB Camera Adapter". (This is basically an adapter to let the iPhone work with standard non-Apple USB devices.) (They call it a "camera adapter" because the most common use for it is to connect a USB camera - but it will work fine for audio.) There are also third party "iPhone docks" that connect to the iPhone and send a digital output (Coax of Toslink) to the PT-100 or other audio device. (Make sure that, whichever one you get, it has the proper connector to fit your model of iPhone... different models are different.) You would need to purchase the BTM-1 bluetooth stick from Emotiva as it doesn't come with any of the preamps. I hate Bluetooth. Is there no wired way to do it?
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Post by leonski on Jan 26, 2018 17:16:24 GMT -5
I don't know WHY you'd want such a connection from an iPhone to a stereo. Most persons have a phone full of marginal quality MP-3 files. ALL my MP-3 are MP3-160, a slightly higher sample rate taking more drive space for a marginal increase in SQ. Years ago, you could get a WADIA device to play the digital files from an iPhone. I don't know if it is available any more. You might as well use the headphone output / splitter, to a high level input.
If you really are set on using the USB input? Get some kind of server computer. I use an old iMac and iTunes with ALL my files dual saved as MP3-160 and as ALAC. A MacMini might work well, be compact and still full-function. Start by putting ALL your CDs on the confuser as ALAC or FLAC. That's what I do, than copy as MP3 for iPhone use.
I wish I knew where to get 24/192 files.
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hemster
Global Moderator
Particle Manufacturer
...still listening... still watching
Posts: 51,951
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Post by hemster on Jan 26, 2018 17:23:16 GMT -5
... Start by putting ALL your CDs on the confuser as ALAC or FLAC. That's what I do, than copy as MP3 for iPhone use. I wish I knew where to get 24/192 files. Confuser?
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Post by leonski on Jan 26, 2018 17:56:43 GMT -5
Yeah, hemster, you know, that silly thing we all spend so much time TYPING into. The Confuser!
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Post by torifile on Jan 26, 2018 19:18:49 GMT -5
I don't know WHY you'd want such a connection from an iPhone to a stereo. Most persons have a phone full of marginal quality MP-3 files. ALL my MP-3 are MP3-160, a slightly higher sample rate taking more drive space for a marginal increase in SQ. Years ago, you could get a WADIA device to play the digital files from an iPhone. I don't know if it is available any more. You might as well use the headphone output / splitter, to a high level input. If you really are set on using the USB input? Get some kind of server computer. I use an old iMac and iTunes with ALL my files dual saved as MP3-160 and as ALAC. A MacMini might work well, be compact and still full-function. Start by putting ALL your CDs on the confuser as ALAC or FLAC. That's what I do, than copy as MP3 for iPhone use. I wish I knew where to get 24/192 files. There are many places to get non-crappy quality audio files. Spotify and Apple Music high quality are 320 kbps files. I’ve also got a bunch of my CDs ripped and stored at that quality on my device. Why use my phone to play music? Because it’s got the best interface to browse of any of my options to play music. I have an Apple TV and it could play music no problem but I far prefer touching my display to any abstracted control device. That said, if I start to go lossless like ALAC or FLAC, I will look into a silent HTPC and put up with the poorer interface for the higher quality.
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Post by leonski on Jan 26, 2018 20:45:47 GMT -5
I use my iPhone and years ago my iPod Touch both with the 'remote' app. The app connects wirelessly to my computer which is connected by USB to my DAC. No loss of quality using 'Lossless' files. If all you have is 320kbps files, I don't know why you'd want a digital connection. Or rather need a digital connection. The 320k is a good compromise between ultimate fidelity and smaller file size.
In tests on my old iMac (a 2009) using Grado SR80e on-ear headphones my volunteers could 100% tell the difference between MP3-160 files and ALAC. The preference was always for the ALAC. Bitrate for ALAC is variable. And ranges from maybe 500kbps to 1100kbps or greater. I made up a playlist of 'duplicate' files which were NOT identified and had the same title. I left the room during testing.
To start the ball rolling, I turn on my DAC and select the USB input. DAC has no remote! From my easy chair, I select the correct input on my preamp and start the 'Remote' app.
At shows, I've seen plenty of 'touch pad' systems with nothing but Hi-Rez files, all easily selectable by touch from across the room. Memory is cheap enough that I wouldn't worry too much about large files.
I don't know how much noise a Mac Mini makes, but I'm not sold on that approach. My older iMac works fine. I have 'fan control' installed and can turn fans down were they to seem too loud.
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Post by torifile on Jan 26, 2018 20:50:23 GMT -5
I use my iPhone and years ago my iPod Touch both with the 'remote' app. The app connects wirelessly to my computer which is connected by USB to my DAC. No loss of quality using 'Lossless' files. If all you have is 320kbps files, I don't know why you'd want a digital connection. Or rather need a digital connection. The 320k is a good compromise between ultimate fidelity and smaller file size. In tests on my old iMac (a 2009) using Grado SR80e on-ear headphones my volunteers could 100% tell the difference between MP3-160 files and ALAC. The preference was always for the ALAC. Bitrate for ALAC is variable. And ranges from maybe 500kbps to 1100kbps or greater. I made up a playlist of 'duplicate' files which were NOT identified and had the same title. I left the room during testing. To start the ball rolling, I turn on my DAC and select the USB input. DAC has no remote! From my easy chair, I select the correct input on my preamp and start the 'Remote' app. At shows, I've seen plenty of 'touch pad' systems with nothing but Hi-Rez files, all easily selectable by touch from across the room. Memory is cheap enough that I wouldn't worry too much about large files. I don't know how much noise a Mac Mini makes, but I'm not sold on that approach. My older iMac works fine. I have 'fan control' installed and can turn fans down were they to seem too loud. All well and good, but the fact remains that most of my music listening right now is from my iPhone. How do I get it through an emotiva solution? If it’s not possible, that’s cool but I want to verify that before assuming it’s a limitation that is insurmountable.
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Post by leonski on Jan 26, 2018 20:58:35 GMT -5
Headphone out to RCA 'splitter' to hi level input? I did that for a while to test, and still have the 10 foot cord around here. My pre amp has a front-panel 3.5mm input for such use, and some additional gain cranked into the circuit. www.parasound.com/p5.phplook at the 'features' list and it's 2nd from bottom. It's just my Opinion, but using a digital connection for Any flavor of MP3 is not necessary. I also use the phone when in the wife's car. Hooks up wirelessly and provides hours of non-duplicate music. I could drive cross-country and never hear the same tune twice.
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Post by creimes on Jan 27, 2018 0:39:53 GMT -5
I use my iPhone and years ago my iPod Touch both with the 'remote' app. The app connects wirelessly to my computer which is connected by USB to my DAC. No loss of quality using 'Lossless' files. If all you have is 320kbps files, I don't know why you'd want a digital connection. Or rather need a digital connection. The 320k is a good compromise between ultimate fidelity and smaller file size. In tests on my old iMac (a 2009) using Grado SR80e on-ear headphones my volunteers could 100% tell the difference between MP3-160 files and ALAC. The preference was always for the ALAC. Bitrate for ALAC is variable. And ranges from maybe 500kbps to 1100kbps or greater. I made up a playlist of 'duplicate' files which were NOT identified and had the same title. I left the room during testing. To start the ball rolling, I turn on my DAC and select the USB input. DAC has no remote! From my easy chair, I select the correct input on my preamp and start the 'Remote' app. At shows, I've seen plenty of 'touch pad' systems with nothing but Hi-Rez files, all easily selectable by touch from across the room. Memory is cheap enough that I wouldn't worry too much about large files. I don't know how much noise a Mac Mini makes, but I'm not sold on that approach. My older iMac works fine. I have 'fan control' installed and can turn fans down were they to seem too loud. All well and good, but the fact remains that most of my music listening right now is from my iPhone. How do I get it through an emotiva solution? If it’s not possible, that’s cool but I want to verify that before assuming it’s a limitation that is insurmountable. Did you not see my mention of using airplay to send it from your iphone to your apple TV ?
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Post by torifile on Jan 27, 2018 1:02:15 GMT -5
All well and good, but the fact remains that most of my music listening right now is from my iPhone. How do I get it through an emotiva solution? If it’s not possible, that’s cool but I want to verify that before assuming it’s a limitation that is insurmountable. Did you not see my mention of using airplay to send it from your iphone to your apple TV ? I did. I meant to respond to that one. It’s a reasonable thought but I would prefer to keep my tv off when listening to music. Using the optical output from the tv to the amp only works when the tv is on (at least that’s how my tv is).
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Post by leonski on Jan 27, 2018 1:14:25 GMT -5
You're still stuck with whatever format you did the transfer to the iPhone using. Typically, an MP3 of one flavor or another. The MPEG-1 type can go to 320bps and sample rate from 32k to 48k. The highest frequency reproduced will be <1/2 the sample frequency minus a guard band. I don't know offhand how to 'force' the encoder to a higher frequency. Most TV audio, for example, is 32k which is actually not quite as good a a proper FM Radio signal. At least, that's off my small dish.
If you are willing to try an experiment, try saving some ALAC files to the phone and try THAT thru airplay. But in this day and age I see No reason whatsoever for MP3.
I just looked at iTunes Preferences. For recording a disc to my music file, I can choose mp3 to 192kb. And I can choose from 32k to 48k along with a few other options. You can even opt for 'variable bit rate' which I'd guess means that 'simple' music runs at a slow rate while complex music has a higher bitrate.
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Post by creimes on Jan 27, 2018 2:49:45 GMT -5
Did you not see my mention of using airplay to send it from your iphone to your apple TV ? I did. I meant to respond to that one. It’s a reasonable thought but I would prefer to keep my tv off when listening to music. Using the optical output from the tv to the amp only works when the tv is on (at least that’s how my tv is). The Apple TV has it's own Optical output so no need to keep the TV on Chad
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Post by vneal on Jan 27, 2018 11:18:05 GMT -5
24/192 files----?------HD Tracks
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