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Post by copperband on Jan 9, 2019 14:06:58 GMT -5
Also I am running 12 gauge wire, but I’m pretty sure that’s overkill. 14 would be more than adequate IMO. building a new house, my builder comes standard speaker cable = 16 gauge. I have them wire the 4 ceiling speakers & 2 surround speakers. I wonder if I need to upgrade to 14 gauge? |
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Post by novisnick on Jan 9, 2019 14:54:39 GMT -5
Also I am running 12 gauge wire, but I’m pretty sure that’s overkill. 14 would be more than adequate IMO. building a new house, my builder comes standard speaker cable = 16 gauge. I have them wire the 4 ceiling speakers & 2 surround speakers. I wonder if I need to upgrade to 14 gauge? 14 gauge in-wall wire minimum, I just purchased 12 gauge for a 25’ - 30’ run. Price difference is minimal. Good luck on your new construction! |
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Post by copperband on Jan 9, 2019 17:05:21 GMT -5
price from builder is NOT minimal....I may stay with 16 gauge, did some reading from the web people saying 16 gauge is fine when the run is < 50 feet. The longest run for me is around 28 feet. By the way, one person(experience professional) from AVS forum suggest the KEF Uni-Q design ceiling speakers for atmos, quoted from his writing for the main reason: "like 90% most other in-ceiling speakers, an "island tweeter". An island tweeter is where the tweeter sits on a bridge in front of the woofer cone. This limits off axis throw and dispersion, any of the KEF Uni-Q models are what I would recommend. With Uni-Q KEF puts their tweeter in the center of the woofer cone. The result is OUTSTANDING dispersion and off axis performance. the KEF will sound better all around the room. Or, in your case, off axis in an ATMOS application. KEF's metal dome might also be a little clearer at lower volumes/power. Here is the link, hope the link works: www.avsforum.com/forum/89-speakers/2325177-atmos-ceiling-buy-triad-vs-sonance.htmlPost 12 of 17. |
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Post by Creature on Jan 9, 2019 18:55:47 GMT -5
Hi,
I recommend 12 gauge plenum rated. I went with 10 gauge and am glad I
did but would argue it is over kill and one must make certain that end
connectors or terminals used can accomodate the thicker 10 gauge wire.
The majority of terminals or connectors (spade, bannana plug, etc.) of
reasonable quality should be able to accommodate 12 gauge with no trouble.
Other than the builder adding to his/her profit, there's such little
cost per foot difference between the gauges. Parts Express, for
example, has only about a $0.40 cost per foot difference between
their plenum rated 16 and 12 guage two conductor wire.
Also, make certain that the installer doesn't run the speaker wire near
light fictures, parallel to 120/240V circuits, or anything that might
produce EMI. When unable to avoid crossing a 120/240V line, do so at
pretty much a right angle. Don't run in parallel without at least several
inches of separation. You can also armor the spots where wire runs
through studs. There are little metal plates that can be tacked onto
the stud with a hammer that prevent sheet rockers and other finish
contractors from accidently driving fasteners deep into the studs at
these points and risking hitting the wires.
Another thing I learned, don't burry your power outlets deep into
corners of the walls. About 20+ inches out of the corner is ideal.
Stud centers are often 16 inches apart, so on the furthest side of
the next stud might be okay but might be a bit too close. I say
this because adding corner traps will often cover the outlets.
Best to anticipate the use of corner traps and other accoustic
treatment, even if not in the immediate plan.
Consider extra 120/240V home runs for the locations where you plan
to place your equipment. If building a new home, specify a breaker
pannel that is over sized for what your builder thinks is actually
needed. It is nice to have extra unused and available breaker postions.
These can be used to accomodate whole home surge suppressors and
future expansion. Much better than finding you need at some future
date to add satellite panels.
Consider 20 Amp circuits for your home runs. Also, try not to have
AFCI breakers for the home runs that your equipment is on. GFI and
particularly AFCI breakers can sometimes missinterpret the power
transients as being indicative of a dangerous condition and may trip.
This last bit about AFCI can be a bit of problem if building code in
your area requires. Usually, it is only certain types of rooms where
GFI or AFCI breakers are required (bedrooms, bathrooms, etc). You
might even consider having one or more 240V home runs, though that'd
be some very hefty amplifiers indeed.
Don't forget Ethernet and possibly antenna coax. I'd suggest at least
two Cat6A or better Ethernet twisted pair runs into the media room or
equipment closet. Perhaps some more where you anticipate adding Wi-Fi
access points.
Dimmable bias lighting near the display might be worth considering.
Something 5,000 Kelvin (6,500 even better) shinning on a neautral
wall color and not shinning on you display or screen. Bias lighting
can be added later but is arguably best considered during building.
I don't know what to say about overhead/height speakers other than
endorsing what others are recommending. I went with Monitor Audio
CDT-380's but think they are over kill. At about $650 each, I don't
like the idea of leaving about $4k US behind when it's time to move.
I suspect there are several good alternatives in the under $300
range. I supose one could go with a model that uses a very common
hole size and then swap out for cheaper speakers when time to move.
On locations for top/height speakers, I suggest going with locations
that satisfy the expectation of both Atmos and DTS:X. Kind of the
overlap regions where both competing designs have common ground.
Perhaps even accomodating Auro3D's rear height instead of surround
height location.
Anyhow, sorry for the ramble. Just trying to do a dump of info that
I would have found useful back when we built a media room a few
years ago. It turned out really well, except for a few minor details,
such as having some of the outlets too far into the corners and
being instead covered by bass traps. Good luck and best wishes.
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