|
Post by ironman1718 on Mar 12, 2019 11:22:47 GMT -5
Hello All,
I guess this is going to be a stupid question. I just received my new DR3 amp yesterday. Will the unit go into standby or do I have to turn it off after each use? If not, is this what the triggers are for? I've read through the manual and probably missed it.
FYI, this is my first amp. So no impressions yet. It is hooked up to a Anthem 1120 using the unbalanced connections. I will upgrade to a pre/pro in the future.
Thank you
|
|
|
Post by davidl81 on Mar 12, 2019 11:39:04 GMT -5
Hello All, I guess this is going to be a stupid question. I just received my new DR3 amp yesterday. Will the unit go into standby or do I have to turn it off after each use? If not, is this what the triggers are for? I've read through the manual and probably missed it. FYI, this is my first amp. So no impressions yet. It is hooked up to a Anthem 1120 using the unbalanced connections. I will upgrade to a pre/pro in the future. Thank you You should have 3.5mm inputs on the back of the amp (12V Trigger input) that go from your AVR/Pre-Pro to the amp for it to go into standby mode. The lights will be amber in standby and light up blue when the amp is active.
|
|
|
Post by ironman1718 on Mar 12, 2019 12:43:28 GMT -5
Hello All, I guess this is going to be a stupid question. I just received my new DR3 amp yesterday. Will the unit go into standby or do I have to turn it off after each use? If not, is this what the triggers are for? I've read through the manual and probably missed it. FYI, this is my first amp. So no impressions yet. It is hooked up to a Anthem 1120 using the unbalanced connections. I will upgrade to a pre/pro in the future. Thank you You should have 3.5mm inputs on the back of the amp (12V Trigger input) that go from your AVR/Pre-Pro to the amp for it to go into standby mode. The lights will be amber in standby and light up blue when the amp is active. I see that on the back of the amp.. I will have to look at the Anthem. Thank you
|
|
KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,273
|
Post by KeithL on Mar 12, 2019 15:05:19 GMT -5
Just to clarify the whole deal....
When you turn the amp on with the switch on the back it will go into Standby.
You can then turn it on and off manually; press the Standby button once to turn it On; press the button again to turn it Off.
Or, if you connect the trigger, the amp will go on and off automatically when you turn your processor or AVR on and off. When you turn the processor or AVR on, it sends a +12 VDC trigger signal out of the trigger output, and the amp will turn on and remain on as long as this 12V trigger signal is present at its trigger input. (In order for this to work, the rear panel main power switch of the amp must remain on; the trigger will only work if the amp is in Standby.)
(In Standby the amp uses only a tiny amount of power - and you can leave it that way all the time.)
Just for completeness: - There are a few oddball devices out there that use other types of trigger signals (NOT your Anthem). - There are a few amps out there that will turn on automatically when they sense an audio signal on their input (NOT your XPA-DR amp). - Some processors, and some AVRs, allow you to set their triggers to do more complicated things - like specifically turn on your Zone 2 amp when you turn on Zone 2 (our XMA-1 and RMC-1 each have four independent trigger outputs).
Hello All, I guess this is going to be a stupid question. I just received my new DR3 amp yesterday. Will the unit go into standby or do I have to turn it off after each use? If not, is this what the triggers are for? I've read through the manual and probably missed it. FYI, this is my first amp. So no impressions yet. It is hooked up to a Anthem 1120 using the unbalanced connections. I will upgrade to a pre/pro in the future. Thank you
|
|
|
Post by ironman1718 on Mar 13, 2019 17:14:22 GMT -5
Thanks Keith. The trigger works fine from my anthem to the XPA DR3
|
|
|
Post by ironman1718 on Apr 13, 2019 15:54:04 GMT -5
Hello all. I currently have an Emotiva dr3 3rd gen amp for my FCR speakers hooked to an Anthem 1120. I would like to add another amp powering my sides, rears and 4 atmos along with 3 subs. Which of the Emotiva amps would you suggest? next year I will go from a receiver to a pre/pro so I can have separates. Preferably the rmc 1... My thought would be the gen 3 11 channel amp for flexibility. I’m thinking of running 7.3.6 in the future. Thank you
|
|
|
XPA - DR3
Apr 13, 2019 16:28:39 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by davidl81 on Apr 13, 2019 16:28:39 GMT -5
Hello all. I currently have an Emotiva dr3 3rd gen amp for my FCR speakers hooked to an Anthem 1120. I would like to add another amp powering my sides, rears and 4 atmos along with 3 subs. Which of the Emotiva amps would you suggest? next year I will go from a receiver to a pre/pro so I can have separates. Preferably the rmc 1... My thought would be the gen 3 11 channel amp for flexibility. I’m thinking of running 7.3.6 in the future. Thank you Are you going for a 7.2.4 set up or a 9.2.4? Either way the 11 channel setup will work fine. I have a DR-2 on my fronts, CPA-5 running my center and surrounds, and a A-700 for my Astros and a Zone 2.
|
|
|
Post by doc1963 on Apr 13, 2019 16:37:57 GMT -5
Hello all. I currently have an Emotiva dr3 3rd gen amp for my FCR speakers hooked to an Anthem 1120. I would like to add another amp powering my sides, rears and 4 atmos along with 3 subs. Which of the Emotiva amps would you suggest? next year I will go from a receiver to a pre/pro so I can have separates. Preferably the rmc 1... My thought would be the gen 3 11 channel amp for flexibility. I’m thinking of running 7.3.6 in the future. Thank you Since you’re only using this addition amp to support your surround and height channels, you don’t need the power that the XPA “mono” blades are capable of supplying. If it were me, I would order a “custom” XPA-10 using 5 stereo blades. This custom configuration gives you 10 channels at 65 wpc (8 ohms) or 100 wpc (4 ohms) and leaves you two open slots if you should decide to add even more channels (or a separate zone) down the road. A custom “Ten” would cost $1599 which saves you $400 versus the cost of the stock XPA-11 ($1999). Food for thought... 😉
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Apr 14, 2019 13:45:28 GMT -5
Hello all. I currently have an Emotiva dr3 3rd gen amp for my FCR speakers hooked to an Anthem 1120. I would like to add another amp powering my sides, rears and 4 atmos along with 3 subs. Which of the Emotiva amps would you suggest? next year I will go from a receiver to a pre/pro so I can have separates. Preferably the rmc 1... My thought would be the gen 3 11 channel amp for flexibility. I’m thinking of running 7.3.6 in the future. Thank you 3 Subs? THREE? Any particular reason you settled on that number? Unless you are fairly wealthy and willing to go BigTime for such subs, I'd suggest a PAIR for the same $$$ you were willing to spend for 3 might yield better results. Size / Shape and HEIGHT of room? Any hard reflecting surfaces like a big stone fireplace or a wall of glass / sliding glass doors?
|
|
|
Post by ironman1718 on Apr 14, 2019 14:20:25 GMT -5
Hello. I’m already running 7.3.4. 3 SVS SB16 ultras. In the future I’m thinking of adding 6 height speakers but the real question was which amp would people suggest beyond my current DR-3. I think I will add an xpa-11 and a new rmc-1 when they get all the bugs worked out. I have a dedicated movie room, 16 x 18.
My my current setup:
JVC RS2000 : Panamorph DCR Lens : Stewart Nuve 125" 2:35:1 screen Anthem MRX 1120 : Kaleidescape Strato :Kaleidescape 24TB Server : Apple TV 4K Oppo 203 : Xbox One X Paradigm 95f , 55c, Paradigm Elite in wall surround and atmos speakers SVS sb16 ultra x 3 : Emotiva XPA 3 DR 3 for LCR : Current Setup 7.3.4 Atmos
|
|
|
XPA - DR3
Apr 14, 2019 14:58:01 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by jcam2881 on Apr 14, 2019 14:58:01 GMT -5
Hello. I’m already running 7.3.4. 3 SVS SB16 ultras. In the future I’m thinking of adding 6 height speakers but the real question was which amp would people suggest beyond my current DR-3. I think I will add an xpa-11 and a new rmc-1 when they get all the bugs worked out. I have a dedicated movie room, 16 x 18. My my current setup: JVC RS2000 : Panamorph DCR Lens : Stewart Nuve 125" 2:35:1 screen Anthem MRX 1120 : Kaleidescape Strato :Kaleidescape 24TB Server : Apple TV 4K Oppo 203 : Xbox One X Paradigm 95f , 55c, Paradigm Elite in wall surround and atmos speakers SVS sb16 ultra x 3 : Emotiva XPA 3 DR 3 for LCR : Current Setup 7.3.4 Atmos Do you think you benefit from amp power in the atmos and surrounds? I’m running the xpr-5 and using marantz to power the remaining. My dual uxl 18s in mini Marty custom boxes I built really slam ... glasses flop over upstairs if I crank it and I put sound insulation in every interior and floor /ceiling in my custom house.. watching Fury/tank battles is becoming a bit obsessive hahaha... I would be Tempted for more amp power for the future 2 ch room though... baby on way and I just got my theater installed I don’t think i will push my luck for rest of 19’
|
|
|
Post by doc1963 on Apr 14, 2019 15:18:57 GMT -5
Hello. I’m already running 7.3.4. 3 SVS SB16 ultras. In the future I’m thinking of adding 6 height speakers but the real question was which amp would people suggest beyond my current DR-3. I think I will add an xpa-11 and a new rmc-1 when they get all the bugs worked out. I have a dedicated movie room, 16 x 18. My my current setup: JVC RS2000 : Panamorph DCR Lens : Stewart Nuve 125" 2:35:1 screen Anthem MRX 1120 : Kaleidescape Strato :Kaleidescape 24TB Server : Apple TV 4K Oppo 203 : Xbox One X Paradigm 95f , 55c, Paradigm Elite in wall surround and atmos speakers SVS sb16 ultra x 3 : Emotiva XPA 3 DR 3 for LCR : Current Setup 7.3.4 Atmos Kinda curious why you would consider the XPA-11 over a “Built to Order” XPA. You already have the DR-3 which drives your main LCR bed channels which, in a 7.1.x layout, leaves the remaining four “surround” bed channels uncovered. The XPA-11 uses 3 “mono” blades and 4 “stereo” blades to achieve a total of 11 channels of amplification. But, no matter how you divide it up, those 3 mono blades are an odd number when pairs of speakers are involved. IMO, to achieve equally balanced amplification to your surrounds, as well as your immersive channels, a BTO is the better choice.
|
|
|
Post by SteveH on Apr 14, 2019 15:51:40 GMT -5
The XPA-11 uses 3 “mono” blades and 4 “stereo” blades to achieve a total of 11 channels of amplification. But, no matter how you divide it up, those 3 mono blades are an odd number when pairs of speakers are involved. I have a 13, which is six stereo modules for twelve channels and one mono for a total of 13. It sounds to me like the 11 referenced is five stereo modules and one mono, not eight stereo and three mono. Might want to go for the 14 if the center channel is already covered by the DR-3. You can never have too many channels!
|
|
|
Post by doc1963 on Apr 14, 2019 15:57:44 GMT -5
The XPA-11 uses 3 “mono” blades and 4 “stereo” blades to achieve a total of 11 channels of amplification. But, no matter how you divide it up, those 3 mono blades are an odd number when pairs of speakers are involved. I have a 13, which is six stereo modules for twelve channels and one mono for a total of 13. It sounds to me like the 11 referenced is five stereo modules and one mono, not eight stereo and three mono. Might want to go for the 14 is the center channel is already covered by the DR-3. You can never have too many channels! Nope... the XPA-11 is three mono blades and four stereo blades. See HERE for the details. Even still, both 3 and 5 are odds numbers when you need to power “pairs” of speakers. The oddball, which is his center channel, is already being powered by his DR-3.
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Apr 14, 2019 16:19:53 GMT -5
At some point you'll have to consider speaker sensitivity IF you desire a certain and higher output level. Unless the amp is built for and will use a 20 amp service, you've only got about 1800 watts or 1440 long term watts to consider. The A/B output modules are still only about 50% efficient, regardless
of the higher efficiency of a Switcher PS....
One solution is a 2nd and perhaps 3rd dedicated circuit. One for the backchannel amp, and a 2nd for front amp and other electronics....or some such solution where the load is divided.
ANOTHER way to get the power you desire, higher efficiency AND maybe even ease the wiring situaiton would be a brace of the PA-1 mono 'D' amps. This is a real nice solution for some....maybe?
Just Looking at the specs for the SVS SB16 Ultra makes me want to dedicate a power circuit just for THEM.
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Apr 14, 2019 17:04:40 GMT -5
If you would conider something out of the EMO universe? parasound.com/1250.phpParasound is well regarded though I have no experience with this line. Bridgeable amps will drive 4ohm speakers easily...... Expensvie? Not for someobdy with 3x of the 'big' SVS subs. Good value lasts.
|
|
|
Post by ironman1718 on Apr 14, 2019 20:09:38 GMT -5
I have a 13, which is six stereo modules for twelve channels and one mono for a total of 13. It sounds to me like the 11 referenced is five stereo modules and one mono, not eight stereo and three mono. Might want to go for the 14 is the center channel is already covered by the DR-3. You can never have too many channels! Nope... the XPA-11 is three mono blades and four stereo blades. See HERE for the details. Even still, both 3 and 5 are odds numbers when you need to power “pairs” of speakers. The oddball, which is his center channel, is already being powered by his DR-3. Looking at the BTO, I should get the ten 4 -3s??? If not which one? Thanks for all the suggestions
|
|
|
Post by doc1963 on Apr 15, 2019 0:34:02 GMT -5
Nope... the XPA-11 is three mono blades and four stereo blades. See HERE for the details. Even still, both 3 and 5 are odds numbers when you need to power “pairs” of speakers. The oddball, which is his center channel, is already being powered by his DR-3. Looking at the BTO, I should get the ten 4 -3s??? If not which one? Thanks for all the suggestions Which way to configure really depends upon how much power you want to provide to your “surround” and “height” channels. As it stands now, your “front three” channels are being driven by your DR-3. This is a good choice as those are, by far, the most active channels and would require the most power. Your DR-3 will serve you well here and I would not change it. This leaves you with your “side surround”, “back surround” and “height” (top) channels. Neither the bed surround channels or the height (atmospheric) channels require the amount of power that the front three do, so you don’t necessarily “need” high powered mono blades in those positions. You don’t specifically say which Paradigm Elite in-wall/ceiling models you use, but a quick look at the current models shows me that they’re 8 ohm loads and have a sensitivity rating of 90-92 dB throughout the model line. A speaker that sensitive won’t require much power to play loudly throughout your listening area. Using a true 65 wpc stereo blade in a low demand channel using a high efficiency speaker should not be a concern. They were designed for just this purpose. Quite honestly, what I would do in your current 7.1.4 setup (you’re using three subs, but there’s only one LFE channel) is to order a custom XPA “Eight” using four stereo blades. This would power your bed surround channels along with your four height channels. When, or if, you decide to add additional height channels down the road, you can have Emotiva add additional blades to your three open slots. That’s the beauty of the modular design of the XPA “Gen 3” series... it can grow, or change, as you do. A “built to order” XPA-8 (Eight-0-4S) would cost $1399. If you truly believe that you will be adding two additional height channels, then go for a BTO XPA-10 (TEN-0-5S) for $1599. FWIW, if the “stereo” blades were available at the time I purchased my “stock” XPA-5, I would have ordered differently. Now that the XMC-2 is on the verge of being released, I will be sending my XPA-5 back to be reconfigured. I will never exceed 7.1.4 in my current home, so I will be reconfiguring mine to support 9 channels using one mono blade (to drive my center channel) and four stereo blades to drive my bed surround and height channels. This still leaves me with two open slots for future expansion and, considering that there is a trade in value for the blades themselves, is the most cost effective way for me to go. Hope this helps and good luck with whatever you decide to do...
|
|
|
Post by ironman1718 on Apr 15, 2019 16:05:26 GMT -5
Looking at the BTO, I should get the ten 4 -3s??? If not which one? Thanks for all the suggestions Which way to configure really depends upon how much power you want to provide to your “surround” and “height” channels. As it stands now, your “front three” channels are being driven by your DR-3. This is a good choice as those are, by far, the most active channels and would require the most power. Your DR-3 will serve you well here and I would not change it. This leaves you with your “side surround”, “back surround” and “height” (top) channels. Neither the bed surround channels or the height (atmospheric) channels require the amount of power that the front three do, so you don’t necessarily “need” high powered mono blades in those positions. You don’t specifically say which Paradigm Elite in-wall/ceiling models you use, but a quick look at the current models shows me that they’re 8 ohm loads and have a sensitivity rating of 90-92 dB throughout the model line. A speaker that sensitive won’t require much power to play loudly throughout your listening area. Using a true 65 wpc stereo blade in a low demand channel using a high efficiency speaker should not be a concern. They were designed for just this purpose. Quite honestly, what I would do in your current 7.1.4 setup (you’re using three subs, but there’s only one LFE channel) is to order a custom XPA “Eight” using four stereo blades. This would power your bed surround channels along with your four height channels. When, or if, you decide to add additional height channels down the road, you can have Emotiva add additional blades to your three open slots. That’s the beauty of the modular design of the XPA “Gen 3” series... it can grow, or change, as you do. A “built to order” XPA-8 (Eight-0-4S) would cost $1399. If you truly believe that you will be adding two additional height channels, then go for a BTO XPA-10 (TEN-0-5S) for $1599. FWIW, if the “stereo” blades were available at the time I purchased my “stock” XPA-5, I would have ordered differently. Now that the XMC-2 is on the verge of being released, I will be sending my XPA-5 back to be reconfigured. I will never exceed 7.1.4 in my current home, so I will be reconfiguring mine to support 9 channels using one mono blade (to drive my center channel) and four stereo blades to drive my bed surround and height channels. This still leaves me with two open slots for future expansion and, considering that there is a trade in value for the blades themselves, is the most cost effective way for me to go. Hope this helps and good luck with whatever you decide to do... Fantastic information. Thank you very much. I will lean toward the BTO when the time comes. Thanks again
|
|
|
XPA - DR3
Apr 15, 2019 16:15:53 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by emofrmcgy on Apr 15, 2019 16:15:53 GMT -5
Hello all. I currently have an Emotiva dr3 3rd gen amp for my FCR speakers hooked to an Anthem 1120. I would like to add another amp powering my sides, rears and 4 atmos along with 3 subs. Which of the Emotiva amps would you suggest? next year I will go from a receiver to a pre/pro so I can have separates. Preferably the rmc 1... My thought would be the gen 3 11 channel amp for flexibility. I’m thinking of running 7.3.6 in the future. Thank you 3 Subs? THREE? Any particular reason you settled on that number? Unless you are fairly wealthy and willing to go BigTime for such subs, I'd suggest a PAIR for the same $$$ you were willing to spend for 3 might yield better results. Size / Shape and HEIGHT of room? Any hard reflecting surfaces like a big stone fireplace or a wall of glass / sliding glass doors? Why do you suggest 2 over 3 ? I’ve read 3 is better than 2. I know when I run my 6 in 3 different locations it’s better than 4 in 2 locations.
|
|