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Post by goodfellas27 on Dec 5, 2019 0:27:24 GMT -5
I tried an old 2gb USB and it worked. I am on firmware 1.7 I notice the volume increased after the firmware, maybe they change the levels. The XMC-1 had louder volume compare to XMC-2. Too bad Emotiva doesn't give you the total VRMS of this unit. If I remember correctly, the XMC-1 had a total of 11 VRMS via XLR.
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Post by marcl on Dec 5, 2019 8:58:37 GMT -5
I have noticed volume levels being different from time to time (XMC-1 at the moment). I have not been able to definitively correlate it to a firmware update or a Dirac recal or possibly even just rebooting. The difference for a given piece of music can seem to be 2-6db. I also had an odd occurrence last week while watching a Netflix movie where I had to increase volume 10db higher than usual, and then about 15 min into the movie it suddenly got a LOT louder. I tried the movie again this week and the sound was the normal volume from the start. So that makes me think the XMC-1 somehow changed the volume on its own as the movie progressed the first time.
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Post by almor54 on Dec 9, 2019 17:14:47 GMT -5
Any news on DIRAC availability?
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Post by emofrmcgy on Dec 9, 2019 17:30:04 GMT -5
Any news on DIRAC availability? Some time next year. They mentioned Q1 but don't be too expectant.
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Post by superhelmi on Dec 10, 2019 6:23:39 GMT -5
Hello,
I got my XMC-2 yesterday ! I`m starting with a 5.1 setup. What is the right connection for the rear speakers (two speakers left/right behind me)? Rear L/R or Surounds L/R
Markus
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Post by AudioHTIT on Dec 10, 2019 6:45:41 GMT -5
Hello, I got my XMC-2 yesterday ! I`m starting with a 5.1 setup. What is the right connection for the rear speakers (two speakers left/right behind me)? Rear L/R or Surounds L/R Markus Surround is for 5.1, Rear is for 7.1 (better put, for 5.1 use Surround, for 7.1 use Surround and Rear)
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Post by dashnizzle on Dec 11, 2019 12:13:07 GMT -5
Would like to know what initial setup everyone went through? I did a normal distance, crossover(LCR and surrounds at 80, heights at 90),spl meter calibration(medium test tone at 75db). Have a 5.1.4 setup.
Im not sure if Im doing something wrong but it doesn’t sound right. Surrounds and heights are very minimal. Not immersive as much as my denon x4500(Audyssey is off when I was doing comparisons). Bass is also not impactful as well. Curious on why I had to adjust one of my speakers to large in order to set the subwoofer to LFE.
I just recently bought this and out of the box, im not impressed yet. If yall have any tips it would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
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Post by goodfellas27 on Dec 11, 2019 21:14:16 GMT -5
the bass and overall volume seems lower than xmc-1. when i switched to regular surround, it sounds a bit louder. seems the way xmc-2 upmixer is configured plus weaker VRMS Would like to know what initial setup everyone went through? I did a normal distance, crossover(LCR and surrounds at 80, heights at 90),spl meter calibration(medium test tone at 75db). Have a 5.1.4 setup. Im not sure if Im doing something wrong but it doesn’t sound right. Surrounds and heights are very minimal. Not immersive as much as my denon x4500(Audyssey is off when I was doing comparisons). Bass is also not impactful as well. Curious on why I had to adjust one of my speakers to large in order to set the subwoofer to LFE. I just recently bought this and out of the box, im not impressed yet. If yall have any tips it would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
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Post by goodfellas27 on Dec 11, 2019 21:15:45 GMT -5
you could have dolby dynamic range compression (drc) enabled. I have noticed volume levels being different from time to time (XMC-1 at the moment). I have not been able to definitively correlate it to a firmware update or a Dirac recal or possibly even just rebooting. The difference for a given piece of music can seem to be 2-6db. I also had an odd occurrence last week while watching a Netflix movie where I had to increase volume 10db higher than usual, and then about 15 min into the movie it suddenly got a LOT louder. I tried the movie again this week and the sound was the normal volume from the start. So that makes me think the XMC-1 somehow changed the volume on its own as the movie progressed the first time.
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Post by kierre on Dec 12, 2019 11:03:34 GMT -5
DING. Another one got his XMC-2. I've been watching this thread closely and wanted to say thanks for everyone's input. This thread as well as the RMC1 thread certainly played a significant role in my decision process. I haven't made a major Emotiva purchase since the UMC-1. I actually starting looking around about 6 months ago after I came across the discount card, and I was looking to get the XMC1. It surprised me that it was discontinued, but I guess time flies if you're not paying attention. I look forward to doing my part in support for replicating issues and sharing my user experience with the unit with my suite of components.
The unit is out of the box and in the rack, but I just ordered the cables. I probably will not connect everything up until the week of Christmas in conjunction with some time off.
I'll be updating the equipment in my signature sometime before my next post.
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Post by pjgregory on Dec 14, 2019 7:07:01 GMT -5
Got my XMC-2 yesterday after it getting stuck in a mixture of Italian customs and UPS delivery problems for a week. Unpacked it and found the cute Birth Certificate. Less cute was the US power lead. Since this unit was shiped to Italy, you might think that someone would have thought to change the lead for a European one. Nevermind, I hope to substitue it for my existing XMC-1 over the weekend and see what happens.
PJG
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Post by bolle on Dec 14, 2019 7:17:43 GMT -5
The XMC-1 also did not come with an EU powercord. This has always quite been the norm with Emotiva products.
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Dec 15, 2019 3:38:42 GMT -5
For some reason after using REW and loading filter preset 1 & 2, I had to reboot the XMC2 a couple of times. It could be the same issue that the XMC1 had when you mess with menu a lot, things freeze.
On the bright side, sound is better and now with the SVS PB16-ultra, I’m not sure I need to go to the theaters anymore. The bass literally shakes my room way more than when I just had the SVS SB13.
REW is definitely worth the small effort especially since Dirac may be a while out. I’m hoping before Axpona 2020 but who knows.
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Post by hsamwel on Dec 15, 2019 17:37:27 GMT -5
The XMC-1 also did not come with an EU powercord. This has always quite been the norm with Emotiva products. In Sweden the reseller Hembiobutiken opens each box and add a powercord.
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Dec 15, 2019 18:45:13 GMT -5
Would like to know what initial setup everyone went through? I did a normal distance, crossover(LCR and surrounds at 80, heights at 90),spl meter calibration(medium test tone at 75db). Have a 5.1.4 setup. Im not sure if Im doing something wrong but it doesn’t sound right. Surrounds and heights are very minimal. Not immersive as much as my denon x4500(Audyssey is off when I was doing comparisons). Bass is also not impactful as well. Curious on why I had to adjust one of my speakers to large in order to set the subwoofer to LFE. I just recently bought this and out of the box, im not impressed yet. If yall have any tips it would greatly be appreciated. Thanks. Were you able to dial you system in? I thought my stuff sounded good doing the basic setup which included setting levels with the crossover set to 50hz for my mains and surrounds and 60hz for my center channel. 120 hz for my ceiling speakers and then I measured the distances for each speaker and set those. This basic setup had everything sounding really good. Then I got an SVS PB16-ultra which motivated me to use REW to fine tune things until we get Dirac and that made a big difference in the overall sound and obviously my bass is out of this world now. It took some work to dial the 2 subs in - using a master / slave hookup using mono mode to get rid of the 2 subs cancelling each other out. And I like that midbass slam so I had to dial in a little PEQ boost and 65 & 80hz in the PB16. Also for music REW recommended I lower the bass at 44hz so I added that in the PB16 - but not for movies (I want that bottom end boost). Now I’m at a point that music sound amazing and full and movies have room shaking bass with crystal clear dialogue. Basically everything sounds even better than before. Still have minor switching quibbles but it’s very minor as in switch out then switch back type of stuff.
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Post by Gary Cook on Dec 15, 2019 20:22:51 GMT -5
I thought my stuff sounded good doing the basic setup which included setting levels with the crossover set to 50hz for my mains and surrounds and 60hz for my center channel. 120 hz for my ceiling speakers and then I measured the distances for each speaker and set those. Just gotta ask, why the different cross over frequencies? The content that goes to the LFE channel (ie; your sub woofer) is determined by the movie sound mixer, hence whatever you set the cross over to has no effect on the LFE channel content. It's generally accepted that frequencies below 80 hz are extremely difficult to assign direction to but those around that and above their directionality can be determined. As a result setting the cross over at 120 hz for the ceiling speakers means that any sound destined for them (by the movie sound mixer) below that frequency will emanate from your sub woofer. You will hear them as coming from the floor not the ceiling. In regards to the different cross overs for the centre (60hz) and other speakers (50hz), it's so small a difference that I'm not sure why you bothered. It's unlikely, but if you have moving sound at, say, 55hz that travels from the left surround speaker to the centre speaker it will, in your case, travel to the sub woofer. Which may or may not sound a little off, or rather just not as the sound mixer intended. I have always set systems up (mine and others) with a common cross over to the sub woofer, generally around 60 hz to avoid any possibility of directionality being an issue. Merry Xmas Gary
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Dec 15, 2019 23:48:04 GMT -5
I thought my stuff sounded good doing the basic setup which included setting levels with the crossover set to 50hz for my mains and surrounds and 60hz for my center channel. 120 hz for my ceiling speakers and then I measured the distances for each speaker and set those. Just gotta ask, why the different cross over frequencies? The content that goes to the LFE channel (ie; your sub woofer) is determined by the movie sound mixer, hence whatever you set the cross over to has no effect on the LFE channel content. It's generally accepted that frequencies below 80 hz are extremely difficult to assign direction to but those around that and above their directionality can be determined. As a result setting the cross over at 120 hz for the ceiling speakers means that any sound destined for them (by the movie sound mixer) below that frequency will emanate from your sub woofer. You will hear them as coming from the floor not the ceiling. In regards to the different cross overs for the centre (60hz) and other speakers (50hz), it's so small a difference that I'm not sure why you bothered. It's unlikely, but if you have moving sound at, say, 55hz that travels from the left surround speaker to the centre speaker it will, in your case, travel to the sub woofer. Which may or may not sound a little off, or rather just not as the sound mixer intended. My center can’t handle the 50hz crossover as well. I tried it before but I think it’s too low for the center to handle. I don’t have directionality issues since anything below 80hz is in mono. I have always set systems up (mine and others) with a common cross over to the sub woofer, generally around 60 hz to avoid any possibility of directionality being an issue. Merry Xmas Gary I am with you on the LFE channel and in the XMC2, you can assign a sub as a LFE speaker. If you do, then when you listen to music, nothing comes out of that sub. My sub(s) are set to mono so I’m expecting all the speakers I set to small, anything below the crossover point will be directed to the sub. So in my setup where I am setting my full range main/surround speakers to small with a crossover of 50hz, anything below goes to the sub. If I set the crossover higher then, I’m not taking advantage of my F208/F12 speakers. For my ceiling speakers, I set the crossover at 120hz because I don’t think these JBL in-ceiling speakers can keep up with my other speakers, hence I’m keeping the load light with these guys. I’ll try to lower to crossover to like 80hz and see if it makes a difference. The Atmos sound works pretty good now and I feel my limitation is the in-ceiling speakers vs getting something like the Revel F16. If I can experience this level of sound using the XMC2, I think for others it’s a matter of tweaking your setup if you aren’t grinning from ear to ear.
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Post by marcl on Dec 16, 2019 7:56:54 GMT -5
A couple thoughts on the topic of crossovers .... maybe stating the obvious at first, but to get us aligned ... Yes the LFE in movies always goes to the sub so the crossover is irrelevant for actual movie LFE. Also for multichannel music the .1 goes to the sub. For all the other speakers (for both movies and music) you set the crossover to achieve the best balance of the low frequency capabilities of the speakers. You should measure this to see that there is a smooth transition at the crossover point. And of course listen to be sure it sounds good too. Large main speakers generally have faster, more accurate bass ... so cross them over lower (I cross my Magnepan 3.7's at 40Hz). Small in-ceiling speakers will be deficient in low frequencies so crossing at 100 or 120Hz is reasonable. My Magnepan MC1 surround speakers (on the wall) cross at 100Hz. In general I think it makes sense to cross as low as possible because subs will always be a bit sluggish. Measurements are also useful to ensure that the speakers and subs are in phase at the crossover point so you don't end up with a null.
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Post by Pioneer on Dec 16, 2019 9:30:05 GMT -5
A couple thoughts on the topic of crossovers .... maybe stating the obvious at first, but to get us aligned ... Yes the LFE in movies always goes to the sub so the crossover is irrelevant for actual movie LFE. Also for multichannel music the .1 goes to the sub. For all the other speakers (for both movies and music) you set the crossover to achieve the best balance of the low frequency capabilities of the speakers. You should measure this to see that there is a smooth transition at the crossover point. And of course listen to be sure it sounds good too. Large main speakers generally have faster, more accurate bass ... so cross them over lower (I cross my Magnepan 3.7's at 40Hz). Small in-ceiling speakers will be deficient in low frequencies so crossing at 100 or 120Hz is reasonable. My Magnepan MC1 surround speakers (on the wall) cross at 100Hz. In general I think it makes sense to cross as low as possible because subs will always be a bit sluggish. Measurements are also useful to ensure that the speakers and subs are in phase at the crossover point so you don't end up with a null. Well put, to make it simple you set the individual cross overs to protect the speakers so a large speaker (floor stander) will have a lower crossover and the smallest (like in ceiling) will have much higher crossover.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Dec 16, 2019 10:24:34 GMT -5
A couple thoughts on the topic of crossovers .... maybe stating the obvious at first, but to get us aligned ... Yes the LFE in movies always goes to the sub so the crossover is irrelevant for actual movie LFE. Also for multichannel music the .1 goes to the sub. For all the other speakers (for both movies and music) you set the crossover to achieve the best balance of the low frequency capabilities of the speakers. You should measure this to see that there is a smooth transition at the crossover point. And of course listen to be sure it sounds good too. Large main speakers generally have faster, more accurate bass ... so cross them over lower (I cross my Magnepan 3.7's at 40Hz). Small in-ceiling speakers will be deficient in low frequencies so crossing at 100 or 120Hz is reasonable. My Magnepan MC1 surround speakers (on the wall) cross at 100Hz. In general I think it makes sense to cross as low as possible because subs will always be a bit sluggish. Measurements are also useful to ensure that the speakers and subs are in phase at the crossover point so you don't end up with a null. Very well put. I’ve also heard it said that setting the crossover (even) higher for ceiling speakers might be desirable as it makes them more directional and may enhance height effects. This would certainly be subjective and room / speaker dependent, but a consideration.
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