|
|
Post by SteveH on Feb 22, 2021 16:54:17 GMT -5
I love your videos. And it appears you know your NEC like a Pro. Great work and no compromises. Terrific. Glad you dropped your chat with the 'code guy'. Now? One question. Are those Apogee STAGE speakers? Wonderful panels. Buddy had some maybe 35 years ago......and I think he was using a B&K amp. What can I do? My house has a 100 amp service. Period. Not that I'm thinking this way, but do they make a small aux panel....like 40 amp or so? And LAST....I see you talk about the ground and neutral buss. Is the Ground buss to its OWN Copper Rod? Or is it bridged over? Living in Florida? Man, I hated that place. Florida Flicker and Flash with summer storms and those non-grounded Terrazzo floors. And not that it matters, but Old-school terrazzo seems different than new. Entire sidewalks of Terrazzo can be found south of hte border in Tijuana. And the floors where I lived in N.Miami were poured a decade or more before we bought our house there in about '68. Sorry,....I forgot! Since you live in one of the lightning centers of the USA, what do you do for Surge Protection? Point of use or will you install a whole-house solution? Thanks leonski. It took a couple months of serious reading and planning to decipher the NEC 2017 Handbook. The speakers are Carver Platinums, circa 1992. Because my sub panel is located at the main panel, I did not need a separate ground rod, I just connected the main panel and sub panel with a 4 gage ground wire, code said 5 gage, but the color green was not available in 5 gage. You need to do load calculations to make sure you don't overload your main panel, but you can add whatever size sub panel is available, you just have to use the appropriate circuit breaker size to protect it and the wiring. My sub panel is rated for 125 amps, but I chose to feed the sub panel with wiring rated for 115 amps and protect it with a 100 amp circuit breaker in the main panel. Because I was adding two-pole circuit breakers, I used a big panel to give me plenty of room to work with. As far as surge protection, I use a 'whole house' device at the meter that I rent from Florida Flicker And Flash, haha. FPL has replaced the whole house apparatus twice within the last fifteen years with upgraded units. I have never experienced it, but if you see that one of unit's three LEDs are not illuminated, they will come out and replace it. So far so good. Thanks for watching. |
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Feb 23, 2021 1:51:37 GMT -5
My house has a 100 amp panel and is pretty 'stuffed' with breakers. These houses are 'low bid'. My kitchen has ONE 20 amp circuit. Oer the stove was origianlly supposed to be a range hood. But I put in a microwave. THAT is a 15 amp circuit, not 20, which is the way I'd do it.
Most of the rest is daisy chained and I have NO real idea what breaker does what with few exceptions I figured out and labeled myself.
If I get solar installed? Part of the 'deal' will be 12 to that ONE outlet in the kitchen and replace the 15 amp breaker with a 20.... And IF I win the Lotto? Maybe a couple hundred square foot addition with a sub panel?
Stereo has ONE additional 20 amp circuit to a PSAudio Soloist outlet. Some surge and noise protection, too. I put my amps to that circuit and everthing else thru a power conditioner. Some of which is thru a 400va Isolation Transformer.....
Florida makes me NUTS. We lived in N.Miami (beach?) for several years. Floor was CONDUCTIVE and I almost fried myself touching a LAMP.
|
|
