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Post by dimitryz on Jan 21, 2020 10:37:40 GMT -5
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Post by Gary Cook on Jan 21, 2020 14:29:38 GMT -5
Checked the fuses?
Cheers
Gary
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Post by dimitryz on Jan 21, 2020 15:33:38 GMT -5
I did check the fuse and it is intact
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Post by Gary Cook on Jan 21, 2020 15:40:45 GMT -5
The 2 internal fuses?
Cheers
Gary
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Post by dimitryz on Jan 21, 2020 16:29:30 GMT -5
Just the visible one by the input socket...where is the second one?
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Post by mack71 on Jan 21, 2020 16:57:10 GMT -5
Just the visible one by the input socket...where is the second one? The second fuse is on the second plate ... under the inner casing, ... you need to unscrew a few more screws ; |
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Post by selind40 on Jan 21, 2020 18:36:01 GMT -5
Do you have any warranty left? Mine had turn on issues, I had no warranty, cost me 300 bucks flat rate to get fixed. Probably can search for the thread I posted on here. Good luck....
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Post by dimitryz on Jan 21, 2020 18:57:39 GMT -5
I am not sure if I have warranty... Sent the serial number to Emotiva.
I was planning to remove the power supply shield, but decided to hold off until I heard from tech support.
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Post by Gary Cook on Jan 21, 2020 21:39:21 GMT -5
The 2 slow blow fuses are on the power board, just visible under the red wiring harness loop.  Cheers Gary |
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Post by dimitryz on Jan 21, 2020 22:11:55 GMT -5
The 2 slow blow fuses are on the power board, just visible under the red wiring harness loop. Cheers Gary Thank you! I will proceed tomorrow. I tend to doubt it's the fuse, since this failure was intermittent for a day. I was able to turn the unit once after multiple failed attempt and it stayed on for a day. After turning it off after that it woyld never recover. |
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Sasha
Minor Hero
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Post by Sasha on Jan 23, 2020 23:10:53 GMT -5
I do have an XSP with the same problem, or maybe even more. I haven't touched it for a while, because of the lack of time, but I am about to get it from the storage and hopefully bring it back to life. That problem was coming on me slowly, over some period of time. It didn't power on occasionally, but it got progressively worse from starting from the second try to forty pushes on a button, until it would not start at all. I could come a week later, and it would start again, but if I shut it down, it would not start. Clicks, blinks blue and goes to stand by. Another problem I had was losing output intermediately, not very often. In a few days, I will start working on it, and hopefully, someone can give good advice where to start. My guts telling me that it is a power supply module, but I am not an electrical engineer. It is a fairly old unit and I doubt that I have a warranty left, but of course worth checking.
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Post by vcautokid on Jan 24, 2020 2:57:00 GMT -5
Doubt it is a fuse either. If a fuse goes, end of the show. It will blow and no come back. Why did the fuse blow etc. I am thinking something suspiciously as simple as a cold or cracked solder joint somewhere. Not easy to find but can happen due to thermal stresses in electronics over the years. Sometimes takes a long time. Sometimes not. But based on the last post and the word intermittent makes me suspicious. I am not promising that is what it is but until someone puts it on the bench and tests the sub systems of the XSP-1, we all are kind of guessing.
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Post by selind40 on Jan 24, 2020 6:07:37 GMT -5
After sending mine in for non-warranty repair ( $300 flat rate) it has been working fine. The question for many XSP-1 owners with power on issues is, Is 300 bucks worth getting it fixed?? I paid 500 bucks for it on Audiogon...plus 300 +shipping to get fixed, so I'm in in this thing for 800+, was that a good move or not??? Who knows. I do however think it sucks that many XSP-1 pre's suffered from this issue which appears to be from cheap caps being used on the power supply boards, sometimes cheap & good isn't really cheap & good.....I'll sell you mine for 800....Lol.
The words below are from my post back in November after getting it fixed.
"Sooooo.....just heard back from the big " E "......it seems they had to replace C5,13,14,17,18 caps on the power supply they found defective and causing the issues. Hopefully this will be a fix that will last longer than the 120 days they offer in warranty for this work.... $300 bucks flat rate...no idea how much those cap's cost to replace, but feel glad it wasn't just a fuse as Gary Cook pointed out. We shall see. In the meantime, the UMC-1 I grabbed from pdaddy has been a nice pick-up filling in. \""
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Post by mack71 on Jan 24, 2020 6:26:36 GMT -5
I do have an XSP with the same problem, or maybe even more. I haven't touched it for a while, because of the lack of time, but I am about to get it from the storage and hopefully bring it back to life. That problem was coming on me slowly, over some period of time. It didn't power on occasionally, but it got progressively worse from starting from the second try to forty pushes on a button, until it would not start at all. I could come a week later, and it would start again, but if I shut it down, it would not start. Clicks, blinks blue and goes to stand by. Another problem I had was losing output intermediately, not very often. In a few days, I will start working on it, and hopefully, someone can give good advice where to start. My guts telling me that it is a power supply module, but I am not an electrical engineer. It is a fairly old unit and I doubt that I have a warranty left, but of course worse to check. The repetition of the same defect may indicate the low quality of the used component, ... this is not good advertising  , ... or maybe it's time for XSP 1 gen 3 ?  |
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs 
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 5,033
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Post by cawgijoe on Jan 24, 2020 7:16:09 GMT -5
$300 flat rate is actually pretty good for labor and parts on an electronic repair. If you know how to, or have a friend who knows how to, replacing the caps with new high quality caps would probably not be hard. I've got a couple of friends, one a software engineer and one an EE who repair and upgrade stuff all the time. That's neither here or there though.
If you are planning on replacing the unit with a new one, you need to decide whether it's worth getting a new preamp or just sending in the XSP for repair.
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Post by Gary Cook on Jan 24, 2020 12:36:47 GMT -5
I do have an XSP with the same problem, or maybe even more. I haven't touched it for a while, because of the lack of time, but I am about to get it from the storage and hopefully bring it back to life. That problem was coming on me slowly, over some period of time. It didn't power on occasionally, but it got progressively worse from starting from the second try to forty pushes on a button, until it would not start at all. I could come a week later, and it would start again, but if I shut it down, it would not start. Clicks, blinks blue and goes to stand by. Another problem I had was losing output intermediately, not very often. In a few days, I will start working on it, and hopefully, someone can give good advice where to start. My guts telling me that it is a power supply module, but I am not an electrical engineer. It is a fairly old unit and I doubt that I have a warranty left, but of course worse to check. Try it first with nothing connected but the power cord. If it fails to completely boot up then you know it’s internal. If it does boot up completely then you know it’s something external. Cheers Gary |
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Post by selind40 on Jan 24, 2020 16:11:05 GMT -5
$300 flat rate is actually pretty good for labor and parts on an electronic repair. If you know how to, or have a friend who knows how to, replacing the caps with new high quality caps would probably not be hard. I've got a couple of friends, one a software engineer and one an EE who repair and upgrade stuff all the time. That's neither here or there though. If you are planning on replacing the unit with a new one, you need to decide whether it's worth getting a new preamp or just sending in the XSP for repair. I don't have any friends.......last time I checked. |
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Sasha
Minor Hero
Posts: 12
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Post by Sasha on Jan 24, 2020 16:19:49 GMT -5
Update. I did my best researching on the web, but the information found is very limited, and it was found only on Emotiva Lounge, thanks to the organizer and participants. Ok, I have my XSP on a bench. I have a good soldering gun with supplies and the multimeter, borrowed from my electrical department an infrared camera and the ESR meter. Opened the top casing. Plugged in 120V - stand by mode, push power - same no start. Looked for obvious problems in and out. Everything is looking good including the power fuses. ...but the power selector led's on a back not working. That shows some problems exist. Disconnected cables to remove the inner cover, removed the inner cover and connected cables back. I tried to start it a few more times, no start. The power supply module looks like a well build old school design one, just in my times everything was built on transistors, now using IC's. Nothing look damaged like bulged capacitors, no heat damages, good fuses on the board. Two power transformers - stand by rated up to 230 V, and dual power toroidal for powering audio section I guess. Why don't I try to power it with 220V? I did, and it started. Still, no power selector led's working. I was able to turn it on and off several times, and it works. Switched back to 120V. No start again. Back to 220V, start and was looking for any unusual heat changes using an infrared camera. After several minutes one of the capacitors was way hotter than other components, close to 150F, while the hottest heat exchanger was 103F only. The incoming power to it was less than the rating on this capacitor. This one is a goner. I don't see the number on board of it, but it is 2200mkf on a 12V power supply side, very top of the board by the heat exchanger. Just in case, I checked all the rectifier diodes I could see - all good. I am going to make a list of all capacitors I could see, and make a stop at the radio store later.
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Post by Gary Cook on Jan 24, 2020 16:53:26 GMT -5
Well done, good process., let us know how the fix goes.
Cheers
Gary
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KeithL
Administrator 
Posts: 10,261
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Post by KeithL on Jan 24, 2020 17:13:47 GMT -5
While I wouldn't rule out a bad capacitor I wouldn't count on it....
Here's some potentially useful information.
When the XSP-1 is configured for 230 VAC operation the primary windings of the main transformer are in series. When the XSP-1 is configured for 110 VAC operation the primary windings of the main transformer are in parallel. The default configuration is 230 VAC - and a relay switches it to the 110 VAC configuration when it senses that the voltage is in the 110 VAC range. So, since your unit works at 230 VAC, but not at 110 VAC, this suggests that the relay is not "switching over to 110 VAC mode". This could mean a bad relay or some other fault in the sensing circuitry.
Do make sure and actually check all the fuses - including the ones under the shield (actually measure them). A bad fuse can cause this and blown fuses don't always look blown.
The relay that controls the voltage is JDQ2 (at least on the schematic I have - it may or may not be clearly labelled on the PCB).
If you see voltage on the relay's coil but it isn't pulling in then the relay could be bad.. or stuck.
If the relay is good, or isn't being energized, and you can't find any other obvious problem, then it's probably time for a visit to the factory. (The circuitry that controls voltage sensing is actually a bit complicated.)
Update. I did my best researching on the web, but the information found is very limited, and it was found only on Emotiva Lounge, thanks to the organizer and participants. Ok, I have my XSP on a bench. I have a good soldering gun with supplies and the multimeter, borrowed from my electrical department an infrared camera and the ESR meter. Opened the top casing. Plugged in 120V - stand by mode, push power - same no start. Looked for obvious problems in and out. Everything is looking good including the power fuses. ...but the power selector led's on a back not working. That shows some problems exist. Disconnected cables to remove the inner cover, removed the inner cover and connected cables back. I tried to start it a few more times, no start. The power supply module looks like a well build old school design one, just in my times everything was built on transistors, now using IC's. Nothing look damaged like bulged capacitors, no heat damages, good fuses on the board. Two power transformers - stand by rated up to 230 V, and dual power toroidal for powering audio section I guess. Why don't I try to power it with 220V? I did, and it started. Still, no power selector led's working. I was able to turn it on and off several times, and it works. Switched back to 120V. No start again. Back to 220V, start and was looking for any unusual heat changes using an infrared camera. After several minutes one of the capacitors was way hotter than other components, close to 150F, while the hottest heat exchanger was 103F only. The incoming power to it was less than the rating on this capacitor. This one is a goner. I don't see the number on board of it, but it is 2200mkf on a 12V power supply side, very top of the board by the heat exchanger. Just in case, I checked all the rectifier diodes I could see - all good. I am going to make a list of all capacitors I could see, and make a stop at the radio store later. |
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, ... or maybe it's time for XSP 1 gen 3 ? 
