Mine was making that same click sound when I finally threw in the towel and sent it in. You have more skills then I as your previous posts show. When I was able to get mine to stay on, I'd leave it powered on....for weeks at a time actually, not sure if that was a smart idea as I travel for work but was getting pissed off with it's finicky nature. The last straw was after a bad storm I intermediately lost power before the backup generator kicked on, I could not get it to come on.....tried like 30 or more cycles of the power button. I may be in the minority here, but I believe inferior products are used in these pre-amps when built. Sometimes cheap labor equals cheap parts and the consequence is just guy that want's to listen to music and have a few beers but he can't. Honestly, if I could do it all over again, I'd pass on the Emotiva XSP-1... and had stuck with the Parasound, it worked each time every time but didn't have all the bells & whistles. Oh well. Good luck on your journey with it.
I did try the unit with 230v converter. It recognizes the voltage - red led illuminated, but has the same blue-then-black behavior. For what it's worth, the opposite led (green, 115v) does not flicker.
I wish Emotiva used the standard switch based user voltage selection...
Update. Picked up $30 worth of capacitors at RadioShack, 12V voltage regulator and two adjustable voltage regulators used for + and - 15V power supplies. Regulators got just in case. Removed the board, and now I had a better opportunity to look at it more detailed. ...5V stand by, 12V, +15V and -15V power supplies, and look at this, there is another one under the board. It looks like 5V for the microprocessor in running mode. With respect to all the suggestions I received, I checked all suggested and didn't find any failure there, including relays. I replaced the capacitor planned. Reconnected cables. Plugged to 120V, power selector LED's came to life, and the green LED is on. Tried to start, no start, and it behaves now exactly like on dimitryz videos. Plugged to 220V, starts, power selector LED shows red for 220V. I don't know what replacing this capacitor did, considering the fact that it is on 12V side power supply, but it did something.
I replaced all the capacitors on top of the board, but four - C13,14,17,18 - left alone. They are on +-15V power supply, and I am pretty sure that they have nothing to do with start-up, at least for now. Plugged in - same no start. And yes, I forgot about the one voltage regulator under the board. After finding and reviewing the datasheet for this voltage regulator, I realized that it may be the one not starting, or starting late. There is another capacitor - SMD V105 - which is 1mkf, 35v. I soldered an additional one to it. Reconnected everything, plugged to 120V, and it started. It starts every time I push the power button so far.
I don't have the SMD one, so I soldered the 1mkf I had.
I assembled everything, but decided to keep both covers off the unit. It starts now on both, 120V and 220V. I will give it a good test, and see what will happen. I feel that this is not the end. I mentioned about the other my problem with this unit loosing output. That may be another thread.
In regards to dimitryz problem - there may be a deeper failure on a 5V stand-by side and 5V running. I would give all the diodes a good test, don't miss the single one in the middle of the board(D5), ohm two brown (R21,22) resistors by the main transformer connector, ohm the transformers coils itself, check relays operation as suggested earlier and that may be a start. But again, I don't have any formal education working with this kind of equipment, therefore take my suggestions with caution.
I have been running it for 10 hours, and everything is working so far. I do have a few questions, and hopefully, somebody is more familiar with this unit than I am. Before starting this morning I connected a borrowed multichannel voltmeter to 5V, 12V, and both + and - 15V board outputs. - on 5V: actual 5.34V and remains stable. A slight drop during startup, up to 4.5V; - on 12V: actual 11.83V and remains stable; - on +15V: actual 15.34V and remains stable; - on -15V: actual 15.03V and drops to 15V after about 15 min, but remains the same after that; - 12V supply diodes rectifiers are very hot, goes to 230F; - all three heat exchangers go up to 240F. Does everything look OK? Isn't it a little too hot? And on 15V - shouldn't it be exactly the same voltage on both sides? Thanks.
Post by audiosyndrome on Jan 26, 2020 20:26:48 GMT -5
Way to hot. Something is not right. Perhaps your temperature reading??
Mac mini-roon-UpTone LPS-1- SOtM sMS-200- USB input XMC-1-roon remote Chromecast Ultra-HDMI input XMC-1- roon remote XM Radio Receiver Oppo BDP-103D Technics SL-1200Mk2 with KAB mods,Grado Gold2 Bryston 0.5B balanced phono stage XMC-1 XPA-1L Gen 2 (x5) NHT 2.9 (front L/R), NHT Super One (surround L/R), NHT Audio Center 2 TWL Seven Plus - American Series power cords LF and RF amps TWL Spirit II - balanced XLR cables LF and RF amps Vizio 60-inch LCD
Reading about this issue, I thought I would comment: back in late 2017 my XSP-1 Gen2 preamp failed in similar fashion after leaving it in standby mode for about two months while I was away from home. Upon returning it failed to start successfully using 110VAC. Emotiva customer support was very responsive and helpful. I sent it in for warranty repair; it was less than two years old at the time. I was told that a cap in the PSU had dried out and was replaced.
Ever since I got my preamp back from Emotiva, I have never turned it off and it has been working well, giving exemplary performance. I am apprehensive however about ever turning it off again.
I know that cost control is an issue to remain competitive, but so is reliability. I am certain caps are not failing after two years in Bryston gear. I am left under the impression that Emotiva should consider using higher-grade caps. I don't know what caps are in there now - I have not looked, but I have to presume that if something such as muRata polymer aluminum electrolytic caps with the proper rating for voltage and temperature were used, this issue would not be occurring.
I have a NAD 2600A amplifier, and the PSU caps for the low-voltage rail had to be replaced after 30 years of constant use ... more reasonable. I went ahead and replaced the high-voltage rail caps too, whether they needed replacing or not.
Main system: Music Server / LMS 8.0 -> Squeezebox Touch -> CI Audio VDA.2 DAC / VRX.1 XLR cables -> Emotiva XSP-1 Gen 2 preamp -> Emotiva XLR cables -> Emotiva XPA-DR2 amp -> Blue Jeans cables -> B&W 804 speakers
I am seeing a few post about checking the fuses. We don't mean visual inspection only. We mean to check with a meter that the fuse is not opened. Seems obvious but it really easy to have a fuse open near the cap and never visually see it. A meter to check the fuse IS the definitive way to know a fuse is bad aside from the obvious poof inside or broken fuse wire inside the middle.