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Post by bitzerjdb on Sept 23, 2020 20:48:02 GMT -5
Off Topic a bit, but FYI
HDfury just released a new product, the Arcana. There is a problem with ARC and Lipsync when you use an external HDMI Source. Basically the issue is the Video/Audio is sent to the TV, then it has to extract the Audio and send it out the ARC to the Audio Device. There is a slight delay due to the converting and sending. The problem is that most devices (Soundbars for example) only allow you to add more delay. The Arcana goes between the Source and the TV and splits out the Audio. It also does some cool stuff like passing CEC and ARC back...
I installed it today and poof, the delay was gone, the Audio/Video was a perfect match.
I also upgraded my video switch to a Vertex2 (great package deal :-) ) I wanted the WEB interface so I could see what was going on with the EDIDs. I now have a few hundred things to tweak and break.
Again, sorry for the Off-Topic post, but if you are using ARC and dealing with an audio delay, there is a solution!
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Post by megash0n on Sept 23, 2020 21:33:07 GMT -5
Off Topic a bit, but FYI HDfury just released a new product, the Arcana. There is a problem with ARC and Lipsync when you use an external HDMI Source. Basically the issue is the Video/Audio is sent to the TV, then it has to extract the Audio and send it out the ARC to the Audio Device. There is a slight delay due to the converting and sending. The problem is that most devices (Soundbars for example) only allow you to add more delay. The Arcana goes between the Source and the TV and splits out the Audio. It also does some cool stuff like passing CEC and ARC back... I installed it today and poof, the delay was gone, the Audio/Video was a perfect match. I also upgraded my video switch to a Vertex2 (great package deal :-) ) I wanted the WEB interface so I could see what was going on with the EDIDs. I now have a few hundred things to tweak and break. Again, sorry for the Off-Topic post, but if you are using ARC and dealing with an audio delay, there is a solution! HD Fury has great HDMI products. They also produce OEM solutions for companies to outsource such. Just saying.
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Post by aswiss on Sept 24, 2020 10:10:29 GMT -5
Finally took the plunge on upgrading my XMC-2 from v1.10 to v2.1 Pretty straight forward although I plotted my steps out in detail beforehand. Pre-requisite: rubber chicken in paper bag on standby 15. Check for IP address (DHCP) from Front Panel - Information Menu - CHECK! Will change to fixed IP later Maybe your router has a capability to manually assign a static IP (fixed) over DHCP.
With this your RMC-1 would always request a IP from the Router - and receives allways the same IP.
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Post by 5channels on Sept 24, 2020 10:28:09 GMT -5
Thx...I do this as I like to assign a specific devices to a dedicated range and let DHCP assign addresses to Smart devices and such. I also do all manual IP assignments internally from a server and not with the router. The router has a specific scope outside of that range.
Cheers
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Post by hsamwel on Sept 24, 2020 12:20:28 GMT -5
Why use ARC? Isn’t it better to use a Sheild or ATV? With them you get native frame rate which is VERY important. I don’t know of a ”Smart TV” that outputs 24p from its streaming apps. Most (all?) do 60p. If you don’t use your TVs apps it will last you longer. You will not need to upgrade it all the time due to some new feature added. Simply upgrade it when it’s broken or the picture doesn’t satisfy you anymore. I use mine as a simple monitor. Although an Android TV with most apps I still think ATV 4k is a VERY much better streaming system than my TV. Always updated to the latest apps and versions. It is important to my family. I don't care ATV or Shield. I myself also considered Shield but these additional device will never win TV internal apps in case of "Easiness", "Comfort", "Quick Access", etc. 24p, 60p, full decode sound, it does not matter. Some people still want their apps. For me, it is not "Just forget about it, buy other device" thing. Different point of view and perspectives, different opinion. I myself also work on development team, I can not say "we have 'A' feature but this is problematic. So buy other device and don't use our "A" feature". If my product is used by normal consumers, I MUST FIX problematic function. It is duty for developers. Each to their own.. But to me ATV is alot more smooth to use than the TV smart apps. Especially if you consider using the processor to get multi channel output. If using the TV sound only I guess using the TV remote is better. For nontechnical (family) people as well. In my setup the TV is always set to get signal to HDMI3. So just starting the TV, the processor and the ATV. Then setting the volume of the processor, choosing correct input and controling the ATV with its remote. Simple! Using Harmony simplifies this process even more. The benefits, better picture (bad not updated apps on TVs and/or processing), often better sound (not all output atmos), framerate mostly locked to 60p causing stuttering picture and no hassle (with ARC or CEC). The lows being having to start and control another device. Which again a programmable remote fixes. Btw I’m not saying Emotiva shouldn’t get ARC working. I’m just not getting the appeal to use it contra using a good streamer like ATV. Maybe it’s my TV that really sucks (smartwise)?!
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Post by Stephen Park on Sept 24, 2020 20:18:33 GMT -5
It is important to my family. I don't care ATV or Shield. I myself also considered Shield but these additional device will never win TV internal apps in case of "Easiness", "Comfort", "Quick Access", etc. 24p, 60p, full decode sound, it does not matter. Some people still want their apps. For me, it is not "Just forget about it, buy other device" thing. Different point of view and perspectives, different opinion. I myself also work on development team, I can not say "we have 'A' feature but this is problematic. So buy other device and don't use our "A" feature". If my product is used by normal consumers, I MUST FIX problematic function. It is duty for developers. Each to their own.. But to me ATV is alot more smooth to use than the TV smart apps. Especially if you consider using the processor to get multi channel output. If using the TV sound only I guess using the TV remote is better. For nontechnical (family) people as well. In my setup the TV is always set to get signal to HDMI3. So just starting the TV, the processor and the ATV. Then setting the volume of the processor, choosing correct input and controling the ATV with its remote. Simple! Using Harmony simplifies this process even more. The benefits, better picture (bad not updated apps on TVs and/or processing), often better sound (not all output atmos), framerate mostly locked to 60p causing stuttering picture and no hassle (with ARC or CEC). The lows being having to start and control another device. Which again a programmable remote fixes. Btw I’m not saying Emotiva shouldn’t get ARC working. I’m just not getting the appeal to use it contra using a good streamer like ATV. Maybe it’s my TV that really sucks (smartwise)?! Yes, I agree with you that ATV or Shield has better performance and sound quality. If I use all myself, I would buy ATV for sure. I have HTPC, if I use PC app, I also can enjoy full decoded sound. It is much better than TV. BTW, I have Harmony 650, and it is not working properly as I intended... Many times device is not on, have to press help button. Maybe upgrade more advanced version? And yes, Emotiva should fix all hassles include ARC. Most important upgrade which has high priority is HDMI 2.1 and eARC for sure. And this annoying "Tick" noise is, I found, not only from ARC input, other circumstances such as play video file from HTPC, also bang on the speaker. Especially when I stop or pause movie/music playing. Very annoying.
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Post by hsamwel on Sept 25, 2020 11:07:07 GMT -5
Each to their own.. But to me ATV is alot more smooth to use than the TV smart apps. Especially if you consider using the processor to get multi channel output. If using the TV sound only I guess using the TV remote is better. For nontechnical (family) people as well. In my setup the TV is always set to get signal to HDMI3. So just starting the TV, the processor and the ATV. Then setting the volume of the processor, choosing correct input and controling the ATV with its remote. Simple! Using Harmony simplifies this process even more. The benefits, better picture (bad not updated apps on TVs and/or processing), often better sound (not all output atmos), framerate mostly locked to 60p causing stuttering picture and no hassle (with ARC or CEC). The lows being having to start and control another device. Which again a programmable remote fixes. Btw I’m not saying Emotiva shouldn’t get ARC working. I’m just not getting the appeal to use it contra using a good streamer like ATV. Maybe it’s my TV that really sucks (smartwise)?! Yes, I agree with you that ATV or Shield has better performance and sound quality. If I use all myself, I would buy ATV for sure. I have HTPC, if I use PC app, I also can enjoy full decoded sound. It is much better than TV. BTW, I have Harmony 650, and it is not working properly as I intended... Many times device is not on, have to press help button. Maybe upgrade more advanced version? And yes, Emotiva should fix all hassles include ARC. Most important upgrade which has high priority is HDMI 2.1 and eARC for sure. And this annoying "Tick" noise is, I found, not only from ARC input, other circumstances such as play video file from HTPC, also bang on the speaker. Especially when I stop or pause movie/music playing. Very annoying. Harmony Elite or what it is called.. Is really good. But you need to put some time into it to get everything to work as smooth as you like. When optimal setup it’s a fantastic product. There’s a lot of timings and order of start to optimize before everything works perfectly. Even though a device is on their ”list” it doesn’t mean it has all the timings and delays correct or even IR commands added to it. I optimized several of my devices getting it work really good.. IMO if you have a working Harmony remote you’ll have NO need for ARC or the ”smart” TV apps. ATV is way better in every way. Also alot easier (better UI) to use, especially if the family already use Apple products.
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Post by hsamwel on Sept 25, 2020 11:16:35 GMT -5
Have noticed that slow downs are especially bad when the unit is trying to determine the audio format or when an HDMI input fails to sync or lacks video. For instance, pause a source then try to change the volume - excruciatingly slow . I emailed with Damon about this issue and he confirmed that they are aware of this issue and probably have found the reason for it happening. I think it was something with the code for audio switching. They are working on it. Probably a fix for the next firmware. I have in the meantime stopped using the VRO feature because when using it the bug appears more often because of the processor never reboots. If you do manual reboots regulary VRO works mostly fine for a while anyway. I have not had a single slowdown during use since using low power mode.
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Post by megash0n on Sept 25, 2020 11:27:14 GMT -5
Have noticed that slow downs are especially bad when the unit is trying to determine the audio format or when an HDMI input fails to sync or lacks video. For instance, pause a source then try to change the volume - excruciatingly slow . I emailed with Damon about this issue and he confirmed that they are aware of this issue and probably have found the reason for it happening. I think it was something with the code for audio switching. They are working on it. Probably a fix for the next firmware. I have in the meantime stopped using the VRO feature because when using it the bug appears more often because of the processor never reboots. If you do manual reboots regulary VRO works mostly fine for a while anyway. I have not had a single slowdown during use since using low power mode. I would love to use low power mode, but... NIC issues. Things definitely seem more stable when you can shut the system all the way down.
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Post by hsamwel on Sept 26, 2020 3:38:15 GMT -5
I emailed with Damon about this issue and he confirmed that they are aware of this issue and probably have found the reason for it happening. I think it was something with the code for audio switching. They are working on it. Probably a fix for the next firmware. I have in the meantime stopped using the VRO feature because when using it the bug appears more often because of the processor never reboots. If you do manual reboots regulary VRO works mostly fine for a while anyway. I have not had a single slowdown during use since using low power mode. I would love to use low power mode, but... NIC issues. Things definitely seem more stable when you can shut the system all the way down. Is this actually a software thing? Have you talked to support by some way checking that it isn’t a hardware issue? I can tell you that I have no issues whatever from the network. I have never ever had an issue with connection either to Dirac or the app. VRO or low power mode makes no difference for me.
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Post by megash0n on Sept 26, 2020 8:28:16 GMT -5
I would love to use low power mode, but... NIC issues. Things definitely seem more stable when you can shut the system all the way down. Is this actually a software thing? Have you talked to support by some way checking that it isn’t a hardware issue? I can tell you that I have no issues whatever from the network. I have never ever had an issue with connection either to Dirac or the app. VRO or low power mode makes no difference for me. yes, I have talked to them. I'm supposed to wiggle my nose 3 times, stand on my head, and also wait one minute exactly before turning it back on. Not more and not less. You know, cause capacitors need 30 seconds to discharge. 🙄
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Post by geebo on Sept 26, 2020 9:33:31 GMT -5
Is this actually a software thing? Have you talked to support by some way checking that it isn’t a hardware issue? I can tell you that I have no issues whatever from the network. I have never ever had an issue with connection either to Dirac or the app. VRO or low power mode makes no difference for me. yes, I have talked to them. I'm supposed to wiggle my nose 3 times, stand on my head, and also wait one minute exactly before turning it back on. Not more and not less. You know, cause capacitors need 30 seconds to discharge. 🙄 Hmm, I only have to wait the 30 seconds and more than that is okay, too. I also don't have to wiggle my nose or stand on my head but I'm sure everyone here would enjoy a video of the next time you have to go through that.
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Post by megash0n on Sept 26, 2020 9:42:35 GMT -5
yes, I have talked to them. I'm supposed to wiggle my nose 3 times, stand on my head, and also wait one minute exactly before turning it back on. Not more and not less. You know, cause capacitors need 30 seconds to discharge. 🙄 Hmm, I only have to wait the 30 seconds and more than that is okay, too. I also don't have to wiggle my nose or stand on my head but I sure everyone here would enjoy a video of the next time you have to go through that. I bet ☺
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Post by Mikomill on Sept 26, 2020 11:16:47 GMT -5
No problem at all with the NIC or using low power mode. If we could just get that last 1%.....
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Post by megash0n on Sept 26, 2020 11:26:16 GMT -5
I may have found what could be a bug. Now, let's not get wrapped around "why" I'm doing this, but focus on what is happening. Source is an Xbox One X. Playing a 4K game with HDR. Xbox sound is Dolby Atmos. If you pull the power cord of the Xbox during this time, the RMC loses audio and will not return without a complete power cycle. FW 2.1 & VRO. I'm aware that this scenario is not ideal and all that. It does seem to manifest into the audio sync issue that we are seeing from time to time. Everything slows down on the RMC and sound will not return.
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Post by ttocs on Sept 26, 2020 12:58:44 GMT -5
^^^^^^ Why are you doing this?
Oh, wait, you said NOT to focus on that. OOPS.
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Post by Mikomill on Sept 26, 2020 17:53:01 GMT -5
I may have found what could be a bug. Now, let's not get wrapped around "why" I'm doing this, but focus on what is happening. Source is an Xbox One X. Playing a 4K game with HDR. Xbox sound is Dolby Atmos. If you pull the power cord of the Xbox during this time, the RMC loses audio and will not return without a complete power cycle. FW 2.1 & VRO. I'm aware that this scenario is not ideal and all that. It does seem to manifest into the audio sync issue that we are seeing from time to time. Everything slows down on the RMC and sound will not return. Ha Ha! Thanks for the heads up, I was just about to unplug my Oppo 203 in the middle of watching a movie while the rest of my system is still powered up! They better fix this "bug" in the next firmware update!!! There's that 1% again!
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Post by danblack on Sept 26, 2020 20:08:57 GMT -5
So why after I run Dirac on my XMC-2 does my bass seem to be lacking. I have one sub hooked up to the middle sub and one hooked up to the left. Problem is when Dirac runs it wants to run the right sub but their is no sub there so I get a signal to noise error. So I have to only say I have a middle sub. But I have to set that sub to mono as it won't let me set it to LFE with only one sub connected then after all is done I turn my left sub back on, and then set the middle sub back to LFE. But my bass seems so not there. Not deep at all. Any ideas? I do not have a minidsp.
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Post by PaulBe on Sept 27, 2020 6:50:41 GMT -5
I may have found what could be a bug. Now, let's not get wrapped around "why" I'm doing this, but focus on what is happening. Source is an Xbox One X. Playing a 4K game with HDR. Xbox sound is Dolby Atmos. If you pull the power cord of the Xbox during this time, the RMC loses audio and will not return without a complete power cycle. FW 2.1 & VRO. I'm aware that this scenario is not ideal and all that. It does seem to manifest into the audio sync issue that we are seeing from time to time. Everything slows down on the RMC and sound will not return. Ha Ha! Thanks for the heads up, I was just about to unplug my Oppo 203 in the middle of watching a movie while the rest of my system is still powered up! They better fix this "bug" in the next firmware update!!! There's that 1% again! I found a bigger bug than this in my system. When I turn it off, I actually have to turn it back on again to hear anything. Oh the humanity! Alexa! Alexa!!
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Post by steelman1991 on Sept 27, 2020 7:44:49 GMT -5
Ha Ha! Thanks for the heads up, I was just about to unplug my Oppo 203 in the middle of watching a movie while the rest of my system is still powered up! They better fix this "bug" in the next firmware update!!! There's that 1% again! I found a bigger bug than this in my system. When I turn it off, I actually have to turn it back on again to hear anything. Oh the humanity! Alexa! Alexa!!
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