ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Mar 31, 2021 12:23:08 GMT -5
Well, this is some good stuff.
I had some problems and wanted to find out what the causes were. Since updating to FW2.2 on my XMC-2 I first noticed extra bass, which I have a workaround for that is working well. But after that there were some other issues that cropped up, related to my Sony tv updating its firmware - a couple weeks after the XMC-2 FW update was installed.
Like I said, a few weeks ago my Sony tv did a firmware update, which caused troubles. Video sync became easy to lose when using TiVo skip features. Switching the XMC-2 to the HDMI Input the Mac mini uses would fail often, requiring the tv to be shut off for a minute or so, and sometimes needing to reboot the Mac mini, as doing anything with the XMC-2 would not restore the video from the Mac mini.
So I went on a quest to find the mix of settings that would fix the problems.
It seemed that the Sony tv was being very aggressive with trying to control the XMC-2 and Mac mini. I already knew that the tv is constantly "sensing" the audio stream, which bugs the heck out of me, so I started with disabling ARC from the system. Then I assigned a particular audio mode to each HDMI input which helped a little so the XMC-2 doesn't need to figure out anything on the fly when audio streams change during commercials, but this didn't do as much as all the following changes combined. I couldn't find a setting on the tv, so I just disabled HDMI CEC on the XMC-2. This did not stop the tv from trying, no affect on the problems, and I could still see the tv displaying the message of "Switching to tv speakers" or "Switching to audio system", this drives me nuts!! So again, anyone who likes using ARC, keep in mind it will slow down the audio stuff from locking on. I'm completely finished with ARC and won't even consider activating it again which I only did in the first place for helping to diagnose issues other folks have, I've never needed it or wanted to use it. ARC works the same for all the XMC-2 firmwares I've used it with.
Then I switched the HDMI output being used on the XMC-2 from HDMI-2 ARC output to HDMI-1 output. This didn't keep the tv from looking, so then I changed which input was being used on the tv from HDMI-3 eARC Input to HDMI-4 Input. This helped a little bit, but not totally, the tv wants me to setup the HDMI Input to make the system "work better". Forget it.
What worked is when I finally found the setting in the Sony menu called "BRAVIA Sync Control", which was set to enabled, so I disabled it. Several problems solved!
Now the Mac mini has not lost video feed since yesterday under the same conditions which would lead to video lost multiple times by now.
I don't hear any audio being dropped for brief durations during commercials that have different audio streams.
I can use the TiVo features like crazy with NO BAD SIDE EFFECTS!! There has been zero lost video blips of any kind, and I've been very abusive with it.
Audio returns pretty quickly after pausing, skipping, changing tuners, etc, with the TiVo. After releasing Pause the audio returns in less than a second.
None of this is related to the XMC-2 with firmwares 2.0, 2.1, or 2.2 which I'm currently using. All of my problems were caused by Sony while having ARC and CEC enabled.
The only downside is not being able to use VRO. Small price to pay for much improved user experience.
Yes, DV60 still works from the ATV4K.
The changed settings involved:
Disable the XMC-2 setting HDMI CEC.
Assign a particular Audio Mode for each XMC-2 HDMI Input.
Use XMC-2 HDMI-1 Output instead of HDMI-2 ARC Output.
Use Sony tv HDMI-4 Input instead of HDMI-3 eARC Input.
Disable Sony tv "setup" for the input the XMC-2 is using, this is part of Initial Setup on the tv. I just told it that I didn't hear any sound so the tv would give up on trying, then it said to change settings on the audio system before trying again.
Disable Sony tv BRAVIA Sync Control.
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Post by hanse1 on Apr 1, 2021 2:13:10 GMT -5
Hi all, EG services aps (Gato Audio) is the european supprt: emotiva.com/pages/international-supportEmotiva EU Service Center: EG services aps Marielundvej 28, 2730 Herlev, Denmark (+45) 7190 6754 My RMC has been repaired by them, the analog input didnt work and some others stuf, but its was the dsp board and the replaced it and I will get it back monday. It took only 14 days from they got it and to monday. They was very nice and Im so glad Emotiva chose a well know comnpany to repair for them here in europe and International, I live in Denmark and 20 mins away from me. Emotiva suggested that I send my XMC-2 to EG Service in Denmark, which I accepted. The shipping cost will then be relatively low. When I packed the XMC-2, I heard something rattling in the processor. Much like a loose screw. |
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Post by cwt on Apr 1, 2021 5:34:09 GMT -5
What worked is when I finally found the setting in the Sony menu called "BRAVIA Sync Control", which was set to enabled, so I disabled it. Several problems solved! Bravia sync or link control is shorthand for Sonys proprietary version of hdmi cec ttocs . thats where the problems start -with ce's different versions . Some are more compatible than others so good move to disable it  As the aussie cablechick website puts it ;  . |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Apr 1, 2021 8:58:30 GMT -5
What worked is when I finally found the setting in the Sony menu called "BRAVIA Sync Control", which was set to enabled, so I disabled it. Several problems solved! Bravia sync or link control is shorthand for Sonys proprietary version of hdmi cec ttocs . thats where the problems start -with ce's different versions . Some are more compatible than others so good move to disable it As the aussie cablechick website puts it ; . Yeah, over the last 14 years I've mentioned that even Panasonic's Viera Link wasn't compatible with Viera Link. I bought a Panasonic Plasma tv and when I saw it said "Viera Link", I thought - Great!, now I can use one remote for both Viera Link products, the tv and the dvd player, Nope! |
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Post by autocrat on Apr 1, 2021 17:59:49 GMT -5
Hi all, EG services aps (Gato Audio) is the european supprt: emotiva.com/pages/international-supportEmotiva EU Service Center: EG services aps Marielundvej 28, 2730 Herlev, Denmark (+45) 7190 6754 My RMC has been repaired by them, the analog input didnt work and some others stuf, but its was the dsp board and the replaced it and I will get it back monday. It took only 14 days from they got it and to monday. They was very nice and Im so glad Emotiva chose a well know comnpany to repair for them here in europe and International, I live in Denmark and 20 mins away from me. Emotiva suggested that I send my XMC-2 to EG Service in Denmark, which I accepted. The shipping cost will then be relatively low. When I packed the XMC-2, I heard something rattling in the processor. Much like a loose screw. $100 says the cover of a capacitor from the PSB is rolling around the bottom of the case. |
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Post by PaulBe on Apr 1, 2021 18:09:03 GMT -5
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Post by Stephen Park on Apr 2, 2021 21:30:18 GMT -5
Hello, long time only see the discussions without reply.
Maybe because I don't have any big issues for my RMC-1, but some issues I just ignore and endure myself, like popping noise when stream type is changed like from Dolby Surround to DTS, Dolby 5.1 to 7.1, and so on. This is known issue and I believe it will fixed some times later, hopfully.
But yesterday and today, I got weird problem and I can't get rid off it, even factory default doesn't help.
I use VRO mode, since RMC-1 is on my hand.
Yesterday I turned off VRO first time.
ARC Power On function is working, even I set ARC Power On to disable.
There is only 2 options enabled on ARC setting - Volume Control and CEC.
And my TV does not recognize that RMC-1 is offed. It must automatically change sound mode from HDMI ARC to Internal Speaker. I have to change it manually.
So I turn on VRO again, everything is back to normal.
RMC-1 does not automatically On when I turn on TV.
HDMI ARC mode automatically changed to Internal Speaker mode when RMC-1 is offed.
So I turned off VRO again for confirm, problem again.
I did factory reset, cold boot after 10 minutes - dozen times, no help. When VRO is offed, ARC is always working even ARC Power On is disabled.
Anybody has same problem like mine?
I can't find any of similar problems here...
I think it has to be informed to Emotiva for newly discovered error.
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Post by markc on Apr 3, 2021 4:38:11 GMT -5
Yeah, I understand your point in that the most important is to level match each speaker to each other. However, I want my 0.0 to be set to 75db as that is what I am used to and what I use as my reference for “reference.” Easier to compare apples to apples as I would know if I’m listening at the same or higher spl levels as before on my previous equipment. I don’t want 0.0 to be say 55db (just an example). So I’m just wondering which test tone to use to set the levels so that that is the actual level each speaker is set to. So if “low” is set to 75, will 0.0 be 75? Or, if “medium” is set to 75, would that be the level when the processor is at 0.0. One of these levels would need to be the baseline for 0.0db, right? My other prepro/avrs had 1 tone that u set to 75db so it was more clear. I know I could just play a pink noise file with my processor set to 0.0 (or -10 to see if it’s 65db) just to see what the spl is, but I figured it would ask since I figured someone may have noted this already. Reference level doesn't apply in the way you are suggesting. What you actually mean is that you want your -30dB system volume to play at 75dB with a -30db from full range source signal. Reference level means listening level or volume/sound pressure in a given room over a given system at a given volume. As you suggest, it needs an external sound source to calibrate. It does not necessarily have anything to do with the relative volumes of the speaker trims in relation to the test tones Low, medium or high. This is there simply to set the channels all to the same relative level. Electrically, a maximum volume sound signal though the main channels (not the .1 subwoofer channel which is 10dB attenuated which allows an EXTERNAL boost to give 115dB headroom) is 105dB. -105dB is silence. To establish reference volume (Which is accepted to be 85dB usually), one has to play a -20db test tone THROUGH the processor and amplifiers (not from the processor) and it should play at 85dB. Because we don't know for sure if the test tones on any, all or none of the processors you use are at this precise -20 (or-30) dB, you cannot compare different equipment using this kind of calibration. There are plenty of test discs with proper calibration sound signals to use for the purpose you describe. Because 85dB is actually pretty loud, most uses are with a -30dB signal and calibrate that to 75dB. Furthermore, different amplifiers have different gain values. Some even have a toggle selectable gain switch. These will play louder with the higher gain with the same trims and the same system volume than at the lower gain. Hence 75dB is not 75dB and -30dB is not 75dB. Without an external calibration sound source played through the whole equipment chain, you won't get a level playing field to allow any kind of comparison. |
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Post by markc on Apr 3, 2021 4:49:14 GMT -5
Very helpful! On a side note anyone have a suggestion for a solid sound meter to purchase. My one that I purchased from Radio Shack waaaay back in the day just hit the bed and stopped working! Would like to get a new one asap as I did not get to finish my calibration with it. If available at amazon even better! I'd say use the EMM-1 (or whatever mic you use for Dirac) and connect it to a PC with REW set to measure volume. The displayed volume seems to dance around a lot less than my digital readout Radioshack meter where it fluctuates over -0.1 to +0.1 dB meaning you have to manually "feel" the displayed sound pressure according to the rhythm of the fluctuating readings on the screen (i.e. some guessing about how many dB are actually being recorded!) |
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Post by kanichkhun on Apr 3, 2021 7:47:13 GMT -5
Yeah, I understand your point in that the most important is to level match each speaker to each other. However, I want my 0.0 to be set to 75db as that is what I am used to and what I use as my reference for “reference.” Easier to compare apples to apples as I would know if I’m listening at the same or higher spl levels as before on my previous equipment. I don’t want 0.0 to be say 55db (just an example). So I’m just wondering which test tone to use to set the levels so that that is the actual level each speaker is set to. So if “low” is set to 75, will 0.0 be 75? Or, if “medium” is set to 75, would that be the level when the processor is at 0.0. One of these levels would need to be the baseline for 0.0db, right? My other prepro/avrs had 1 tone that u set to 75db so it was more clear. I know I could just play a pink noise file with my processor set to 0.0 (or -10 to see if it’s 65db) just to see what the spl is, but I figured it would ask since I figured someone may have noted this already. Reference level doesn't apply in the way you are suggesting. What you actually mean is that you want your -30dB system volume to play at 75dB with a -30db from full range source signal. Reference level means listening level or volume/sound pressure in a given room over a given system at a given volume. As you suggest, it needs an external sound source to calibrate. It does not necessarily have anything to do with the relative volumes of the speaker trims in relation to the test tones Low, medium or high. This is there simply to set the channels all to the same relative level. Electrically, a maximum volume sound signal though the main channels (not the .1 subwoofer channel which is 10dB attenuated which allows an EXTERNAL boost to give 115dB headroom) is 105dB. -105dB is silence. To establish reference volume (Which is accepted to be 85dB usually), one has to play a -20db test tone THROUGH the processor and amplifiers (not from the processor) and it should play at 85dB. Because we don't know for sure if the test tones on any, all or none of the processors you use are at this precise -20 (or-30) dB, you cannot compare different equipment using this kind of calibration. There are plenty of test discs with proper calibration sound signals to use for the purpose you describe. Because 85dB is actually pretty loud, most uses are with a -30dB signal and calibrate that to 75dB. Furthermore, different amplifiers have different gain values. Some even have a toggle selectable gain switch. These will play louder with the higher gain with the same trims and the same system volume than at the lower gain. Hence 75dB is not 75dB and -30dB is not 75dB. Without an external calibration sound source played through the whole equipment chain, you won't get a level playing field to allow any kind of comparison. +1 |
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jasser
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Post by jasser on Apr 5, 2021 12:01:25 GMT -5
I tried updating the firmware on my xmc-2 and followed the instructions. The update got stuck on updating display panel for longer than 20 minutes and the instructions said it could happen in rare instances and to turn off and turn back on. Now it will "turn on" but the display is blank. The emotiva button flashes amber for a half second and then alternates purple and blue until staying blue. After about 10 seconds of being on there is a single click. That is all it will do. I have tried powering down and unplugging it for a few hours, nothing. Buttons are unresponsive. I tried the dim button on both remote and panel and nothing. There is no signal reading from the tv. Please help!
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on Apr 5, 2021 12:08:31 GMT -5
I tried updating the firmware on my xmc-2 and followed the instructions. The update got stuck on updating display panel for longer than 20 minutes and the instructions said it could happen in rare instances and to turn off and turn back on. Now it will "turn on" but the display is blank. The emotiva button flashes amber for a half second and then alternates purple and blue until staying blue. After about 10 seconds of being on there is a single click. That is all it will do. I have tried powering down and unplugging it for a few hours, nothing. Buttons are unresponsive. I tried the dim button on both remote and panel and nothing. There is no signal reading from the tv. Please help! Normally if it gets stuck the thing to do is remove the stick, power down for at least 60 seconds, and try again. On the stick you inserted....is the only thing on it the current firmware? I would try powering down again, remove all HDMI cables....wait five minutes and power up again.....if that doesn't work, call Emotiva support. |
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on Apr 5, 2021 12:25:32 GMT -5
I tried updating the firmware on my xmc-2 and followed the instructions. The update got stuck on updating display panel for longer than 20 minutes and the instructions said it could happen in rare instances and to turn off and turn back on. Now it will "turn on" but the display is blank. The emotiva button flashes amber for a half second and then alternates purple and blue until staying blue. After about 10 seconds of being on there is a single click. That is all it will do. I have tried powering down and unplugging it for a few hours, nothing. Buttons are unresponsive. I tried the dim button on both remote and panel and nothing. There is no signal reading from the tv. Please help! When it got stuck, did it show it was on the "Front Panel" portion of the update? If so: 1. Shut down the XMC-2 by the "rocker switch" on the back left of the box. 2. Pull the USB stick. 3. Now wait 5 minutes to be safe. 4. Now turn the "Rocker Switch" on the back left of the box back "ON". 5. Wait another 5 minute to be safe. 6. Press the "Power Button" on the front of your XMC-2 and wait for it to boot up. 7. If it successfully booted up, then press the "Menu" button on the remote and scroll down to "Information", and scroll right to the "Information" screen and verify the "Firmware Version" is updated. 8. As "Cawgijoe" stated above, to be thorough and safe, only the "update file should be in the USB stick's main directory" and nothing else. |
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Post by wizardofoz on Apr 6, 2021 10:49:02 GMT -5
Emotiva suggested that I send my XMC-2 to EG Service in Denmark, which I accepted. The shipping cost will then be relatively low. When I packed the XMC-2, I heard something rattling in the processor. Much like a loose screw. $100 says the cover of a capacitor from the PSB is rolling around the bottom of the case. That would be spooky |
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Post by hanse1 on Apr 6, 2021 11:43:03 GMT -5
My XMC-2 arrived at EG Service in Denmark today. I will return with the result of the troubleshooting
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Post by motogp34 on Apr 7, 2021 18:08:32 GMT -5
Seems to be a HDMI lag on the XMC2 is this the unit or cable ?
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Post by panasonicst60 on Apr 9, 2021 13:51:25 GMT -5
I'll be back when firmware 2.3 comes out...
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Post by millst on Apr 10, 2021 21:38:52 GMT -5
Anyone notice any bugs in decoding? Usage of channels and steering of audio to them, in particular. It's an XMC-2 and everything is in Auto mode. Both times it happened, I was able to fix it by cycling sound formats (putting it back in the same Auto/Surround mode).
First time, I had center channel content unnecessarily spread across the front channels. I was watching a talking head sports show and it was pretty obvious with the voice being spread out. It was kind of like it was in All Stereo mode. The TiVo would have been outputting DD 5.1.
Second time, none of my surround/back channels were being used. This was for some music, PCM stereo. Perhaps it could have been outputting stereo instead of upmixing. I didn't put my ear up against the center.
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Germotiva
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Post by Germotiva on Apr 11, 2021 3:36:24 GMT -5
Anyone notice any bugs in decoding? Usage of channels and steering of audio to them, in particular. It's an XMC-2 and everything is in Auto mode. Both times it happened, I was able to fix it by cycling sound formats (putting it back in the same Auto/Surround mode). First time, I had center channel content unnecessarily spread across the front channels. I was watching a talking head sports show and it was pretty obvious with the voice being spread out. It was kind of like it was in All Stereo mode. The TiVo would have been outputting DD 5.1. Second time, none of my surround/back channels were being used. This was for some music, PCM stereo. Perhaps it could have been outputting stereo instead of upmixing. I didn't put my ear up against the center. I have the same phenomenon. I am trying to explain this in more detail. it becomes a longer text. I hope google translat translates it understandably. see you later 🍻 |
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Post by doc1963 on Apr 11, 2021 6:41:59 GMT -5
Anyone notice any bugs in decoding? Usage of channels and steering of audio to them, in particular. It's an XMC-2 and everything is in Auto mode. Both times it happened, I was able to fix it by cycling sound formats (putting it back in the same Auto/Surround mode). First time, I had center channel content unnecessarily spread across the front channels. I was watching a talking head sports show and it was pretty obvious with the voice being spread out. It was kind of like it was in All Stereo mode. The TiVo would have been outputting DD 5.1. Second time, none of my surround/back channels were being used. This was for some music, PCM stereo. Perhaps it could have been outputting stereo instead of upmixing. I didn't put my ear up against the center. If this has only happened on a rare occasion, it sounds to me like the “DSU bug” that Dolby has acknowledged and is currently working to fix. It affects every platform that uses the newer DSU and isn’t specific to your XMC-2. Dolby hasn’t given a specific date for an expected patch, but I’ve been following the “Marantz AV8805 Users Thread” over on the AVS Forum for any updates. Since D&M was the first to confront Dolby on this matter, they will likely be among the first to release the fix. My TiVo also outputs DD 5.1 and I can definitely switch between channels and find some where the voices of the commentators are clearly “centered” and other stations where they’re clearly “spread” into the L/R, but I believe that’s how the content is coming in. However, I’ve never had an instance where they’re starting centered and then suddenly shifting outward. If the latter is exactly what you’re experiencing, that’s definitely the DSU bug. Since DSU is the default when your XMC-2 is in the “Auto” mode, and since there’s no other upmix option for DD until Emotiva unlocks it (since Dolby lifted their restrictions), there’s nothing you can do. However, for PCM based content, you can try using DTS:NeuralX as an upmixer and compare the results. |
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As the aussie cablechick website puts it ; 
