ttocs
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I always have a wonderful time, wherever I am, whomever I'm with. (Elwood P Dowd)
Posts: 8,129
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Post by ttocs on Mar 5, 2022 15:34:40 GMT -5
Question on flexibility of remote control. In my 9.4.6 setup the left and right subwoofer outputs are configured to the rear heights instead of the subs. So the subwoofer output is from the center subwoofer out. With this configuration I find that the subwoofer trim on the remote control is disabled, presumably because the left and right subs are configured for the rear heights. Is there a way to assign the center sub to the subwoofer trim buttons on the remote? The only way I've found to adjust subwoofer output level is to go into the speaker levels menu. And that defeats the ability to adjust on the fly.... When I configure my system to use Left/Right Subs for other than subwoofer duties, I only see Sm or Lg Top Middle. So I'll assume you mean one of these. So I configured the Left/Right Subs for Sm Top Middle, Sm Front and Rear Tops are also configured, then I set the Center Sub for Mono. The SUB Trim on the remote works as it should. I then configured the Center Sub for LFE and had the same success using the SUB Trim buttons to raise/lower the level of the Center Sub. If you could please list out the channels and how each are configured, large/small, including crossover settings, so that I may duplicate. |
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 5, 2022 19:59:35 GMT -5
I have rotated my RMC-1 back into the rack. Like to switch things around every so often to shake the cobwebs out. I started using 2 Buckeye amps a month or so ago with the HTP-1 with no problem as far as triggering power on and off. After I put the RMC in again the triggers are no longer working. Is there something I am missing as far as setting up the RMC? I went to the triggers menu and set 1 and 2 for the Main Zone Power and selected all other choices. Is there anything else I should do?
Thanks much.
Just for info: The HTP-1 is an excellent processor. It has its faults but if you can get one I believe it is well worth it. I still have a soft spot for my RMC-1 and hope that the next firmware update (whenever that will be) will move it along to where it should be after all of this time.
Regards to all.
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Post by lhracing on Mar 5, 2022 21:53:24 GMT -5
I have an XMC-2 and have tried to setup it up in a 5.1.2 configuration but I keep getting results that I don’t understand. I am using the Airmotiv A1 as a reflective speaker placed on top of my Fronts.
In Preset 1, I setup the Front Height speakers as, (Size/Front Height) “SM Top Front”
I then select, Size/DD Reflective/Fronts (X)
When I do this the Size/Front Height changes to “DD Enabled Middle”.
Because the Front Height speakers change from “SM TOP Front” to “DD Enabled Middle” when I select the fronts as reflective am I doing something wrong or is this correct?
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ttocs
Global Moderator
I always have a wonderful time, wherever I am, whomever I'm with. (Elwood P Dowd)
Posts: 8,129
|
Post by ttocs on Mar 5, 2022 22:11:29 GMT -5
I have an XMC-2 and have tried to setup it up in a 5.1.2 configuration but I keep getting results that I don’t understand. I am using the Airmotiv A1 as a reflective speaker placed on top of my Fronts. In Preset 1, I setup the Front Height speakers as, (Size/Front Height) “SM Top Front” I then select, Size/DD Reflective/Fronts (X) When I do this the Size/Front Height changes to “DD Enabled Middle”. Because the Front Height speakers change from “SM TOP Front” to “DD Enabled Middle” when I select the fronts as reflective am I doing something wrong or is this correct? I get the same result when selecting DD Reflective/Fronts. But if I select DD Reflective/Middle, then the Front Heights don't change. So this seems correct, especially since your reflective speakers are on top of the Fronts. |
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Post by cwmcobra on Mar 5, 2022 23:02:36 GMT -5
Question on flexibility of remote control. In my 9.4.6 setup the left and right subwoofer outputs are configured to the rear heights instead of the subs. So the subwoofer output is from the center subwoofer out. With this configuration I find that the subwoofer trim on the remote control is disabled, presumably because the left and right subs are configured for the rear heights. Is there a way to assign the center sub to the subwoofer trim buttons on the remote? The only way I've found to adjust subwoofer output level is to go into the speaker levels menu. And that defeats the ability to adjust on the fly.... When I configure my system to use Left/Right Subs for other than subwoofer duties, I only see Sm or Lg Top Middle. So I'll assume you mean one of these. So I configured the Left/Right Subs for Sm Top Middle, Sm Front and Rear Tops are also configured, then I set the Center Sub for Mono. The SUB Trim on the remote works as it should. I then configured the Center Sub for LFE and had the same success using the SUB Trim buttons to raise/lower the level of the Center Sub. If you could please list out the channels and how each are configured, large/small, including crossover settings, so that I may duplicate. Thanks ttocs. I tried it again and now it works as it should. Maybe because I've done several rear power switch reboots today.... The system has been working fine with a single video source, my Sony disc player configured on HDMI 1 of the XMC-2. The XMC-2 is connected to the JVC RS2100 projector with a certified 8K fiber optic HDMI cable. Today I added a Dish receiver to the system and can't get it to work reliably. Audio works fine, but video hardly works at all. Flashes on and off a few times and then seems to stay off. If I connect the Dish receiver directly to the projector, it works fine. So it seems something in the XMC is not playing nice with the Dish receiver. I've played with settings for the HDMI 2 input on the XMC and changed the HDMI EDID setting int the projector to "B". Nothing has solved the problem yet. Do I need an HDMI switch between the XMC and projector? Something to straighten out the HDMI interface? I've seen the HDFury thread; is this something I need to consider? Are others having problems with Dish receivers? Thanks, Chuck |
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Post by cwmcobra on Mar 6, 2022 10:45:12 GMT -5
So after thinking more about this, I've purchased a Rooful HDMI switch that will be delivered by Amazon today. I plan to place it from the output of the Dish receiver and split its outputs to the XMC and to the projector. That will avoid whatever HDMI gremlins are plaguing the video interface between the Dish receiver and the XMC. Hoping to move on to calibration and tweaking soon.
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Post by markc on Mar 6, 2022 14:04:26 GMT -5
I have an XMC-2 and have tried to setup it up in a 5.1.2 configuration but I keep getting results that I don’t understand. I am using the Airmotiv A1 as a reflective speaker placed on top of my Fronts. In Preset 1, I setup the Front Height speakers as, (Size/Front Height) “SM Top Front” I then select, Size/DD Reflective/Fronts (X) When I do this the Size/Front Height changes to “DD Enabled Middle”. Because the Front Height speakers change from “SM TOP Front” to “DD Enabled Middle” when I select the fronts as reflective am I doing something wrong or is this correct? This looks entirely correct. Your Dolby Enabled speakers are not Top or Height speakers and should ideally not be setup as this. They are DD Reflective = Dolby Enabled = Ceiling bouncers Additionally, with any 5.1.2 setup, the 2 Atmos speakers should normally be designated Middle rather than front or rear. Even though sat on top of your front speakers, they should bounce overhead sound off of the ceiling that contains some rear Atmos audio in it as well as front Atmos audio. Also for the A1's as reflective speakers, ensure you "replace the flat grill with the included directivity control grill, and select the optimized midrange contour using the switch on the rear panel" |
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Post by hsamwel on Mar 6, 2022 14:36:07 GMT -5
I have rotated my RMC-1 back into the rack. Like to switch things around every so often to shake the cobwebs out. I started using 2 Buckeye amps a month or so ago with the HTP-1 with no problem as far as triggering power on and off. After I put the RMC in again the triggers are no longer working. Is there something I am missing as far as setting up the RMC? I went to the triggers menu and set 1 and 2 for the Main Zone Power and selected all other choices. Is there anything else I should do? Thanks much. Just for info: The HTP-1 is an excellent processor. It has its faults but if you can get one I believe it is well worth it. I still have a soft spot for my RMC-1 and hope that the next firmware update (whenever that will be) will move it along to where it should be after all of this time. Regards to all. I reported this to Emotiva today. After fw 2.5 suddenly my trigger 1 port didn’t start my XPA-11 amp anymore.. I first thought it had broken. After a bit of testing I found out that if you uncheck both fronts and subwoofer from a trigger it won’t send a trigger signal anymore.. So I temporarely checked subwoofer to have it working. |
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Post by lhracing on Mar 6, 2022 14:48:56 GMT -5
I have an XMC-2 and have tried to setup it up in a 5.1.2 configuration but I keep getting results that I don’t understand. I am using the Airmotiv A1 as a reflective speaker placed on top of my Fronts. In Preset 1, I setup the Front Height speakers as, (Size/Front Height) “SM Top Front” I then select, Size/DD Reflective/Fronts (X) When I do this the Size/Front Height changes to “DD Enabled Middle”. Because the Front Height speakers change from “SM TOP Front” to “DD Enabled Middle” when I select the fronts as reflective am I doing something wrong or is this correct? This looks entirely correct. Your Dolby Enabled speakers are not Top or Height speakers and should ideally not be setup as this. They are DD Reflective = Dolby Enabled = Ceiling bouncers Additionally, with any 5.1.2 setup, the 2 Atmos speakers should normally be designated Middle rather than front or rear. Even though sat on top of your front speakers, they should bounce overhead sound off of the ceiling that contains some rear Atmos audio in it as well as front Atmos audio. Also for the A1's as reflective speakers, ensure you "replace the flat grill with the included directivity control grill, and select the optimized midrange contour using the switch on the rear panel" Thank you for the information, I was confused by them designated as "Middle" when I had selected Front in the DD Reflective settings. I do have the A1's setup as you mentioned. Lane |
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 6, 2022 15:13:39 GMT -5
I have rotated my RMC-1 back into the rack. Like to switch things around every so often to shake the cobwebs out. I started using 2 Buckeye amps a month or so ago with the HTP-1 with no problem as far as triggering power on and off. After I put the RMC in again the triggers are no longer working. Is there something I am missing as far as setting up the RMC? I went to the triggers menu and set 1 and 2 for the Main Zone Power and selected all other choices. Is there anything else I should do? Thanks much. Just for info: The HTP-1 is an excellent processor. It has its faults but if you can get one I believe it is well worth it. I still have a soft spot for my RMC-1 and hope that the next firmware update (whenever that will be) will move it along to where it should be after all of this time. Regards to all. I reported this to Emotiva today. After fw 2.5 suddenly my trigger 1 port didn’t start my XPA-11 amp anymore.. I first thought it had broken. After a bit of testing I found out that if you uncheck both fronts and subwoofer from a trigger it won’t send a trigger signal anymore.. So I temporarely checked subwoofer to have it working. This is the response I got from Buckeye in regards to my trigger issue: "I did some quick searching and found in the RMC-1 owners thread on Emotiva that there is a known "short coming" that it seems the RMC-1 triggers do not have either enough juice or are very sensitive to inductive loads generated by traditional mechanical relays (like the ones my amps use). Seems to be a problem especially for people trying to trigger sub amps." "I would suggest getting their 12v trigger module that takes a trigger signal and beefs it up before sending it on to the amps." Part of the response above was removed due to their personal interaction with Emotiva. I did order the Emo ET-3 Trigger Expansion Module as suggested. Hope that does the trick because I really like the Buckey amps I got. I do seem to recall now some discussion about the Emo triggers but do not remember myself what the complete discussion or outcome was. Take care. |
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Post by jbrunwa on Mar 6, 2022 15:40:01 GMT -5
I reported this to Emotiva today. After fw 2.5 suddenly my trigger 1 port didn’t start my XPA-11 amp anymore.. I first thought it had broken. After a bit of testing I found out that if you uncheck both fronts and subwoofer from a trigger it won’t send a trigger signal anymore.. So I temporarely checked subwoofer to have it working. This is the response I got from Buckeye in regards to my trigger issue: "I did some quick searching and found in the RMC-1 owners thread on Emotiva that there is a known "short coming" that it seems the RMC-1 triggers do not have either enough juice or are very sensitive to inductive loads generated by traditional mechanical relays (like the ones my amps use). Seems to be a problem especially for people trying to trigger sub amps." "I would suggest getting their 12v trigger module that takes a trigger signal and beefs it up before sending it on to the amps." Part of the response above was removed due to their personal interaction with Emotiva. I did order the Emo ET-3 Trigger Expansion Module as suggested. Hope that does the trick because I really like the Buckey amps I got. I do seem to recall now some discussion about the Emo triggers but do not remember myself what the complete discussion or outcome was. Take care. Per my previous query to Emotiva tech support, the XMC-2 triggers are rated for 80 mA each. So that’s 80mA x 4. My 2 Buckeye amps are rated at 70 mA each and worked flawlessly with a separate trigger out from the XMC-2 for each amp under firmware 2.3. When I moved away from the XMC-2 I bought the Emo ET-3, which also works fine with the Buckeyes. |
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 6, 2022 15:54:20 GMT -5
This is the response I got from Buckeye in regards to my trigger issue: "I did some quick searching and found in the RMC-1 owners thread on Emotiva that there is a known "short coming" that it seems the RMC-1 triggers do not have either enough juice or are very sensitive to inductive loads generated by traditional mechanical relays (like the ones my amps use). Seems to be a problem especially for people trying to trigger sub amps." "I would suggest getting their 12v trigger module that takes a trigger signal and beefs it up before sending it on to the amps." Part of the response above was removed due to their personal interaction with Emotiva. I did order the Emo ET-3 Trigger Expansion Module as suggested. Hope that does the trick because I really like the Buckey amps I got. I do seem to recall now some discussion about the Emo triggers but do not remember myself what the complete discussion or outcome was. Take care. Per my previous query to Emotiva tech support, the XMC-2 triggers are rated for 80 mA each. So that’s 80mA x 4. My 2 Buckeye amps are rated at 70 mA each and worked flawlessly with a separate trigger out from the XMC-2 for each amp under firmware 2.3. When I moved away from the XMC-2 I bought the Emo ET-3, which also works fine with the Buckeyes. I first tried using RMC with firmware 2.3 and then installed 2.5. Triggers did not work under either firmware. Glad to hear that the ET-3 worked for you. Will keep my fingers crossed. |
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Post by hsamwel on Mar 6, 2022 16:31:16 GMT -5
I reported this to Emotiva today. After fw 2.5 suddenly my trigger 1 port didn’t start my XPA-11 amp anymore.. I first thought it had broken. After a bit of testing I found out that if you uncheck both fronts and subwoofer from a trigger it won’t send a trigger signal anymore.. So I temporarely checked subwoofer to have it working. This is the response I got from Buckeye in regards to my trigger issue: "I did some quick searching and found in the RMC-1 owners thread on Emotiva that there is a known "short coming" that it seems the RMC-1 triggers do not have either enough juice or are very sensitive to inductive loads generated by traditional mechanical relays (like the ones my amps use). Seems to be a problem especially for people trying to trigger sub amps." "I would suggest getting their 12v trigger module that takes a trigger signal and beefs it up before sending it on to the amps." Part of the response above was removed due to their personal interaction with Emotiva. I did order the Emo ET-3 Trigger Expansion Module as suggested. Hope that does the trick because I really like the Buckey amps I got. I do seem to recall now some discussion about the Emo triggers but do not remember myself what the complete discussion or outcome was. Take care. This isn’t the same thing I reported. I don’t trigger my subs at all, they are on ”auto on”. Still my RMC-1 requires subwoofer or fronts to be checked in the trigger settings for it to power on my XPA-11 which I have all the other speakers connected to. I use trigger port 2 for my 2ch amp which drives my fronts which powers on just fine with only the fronts checked in the settings. Before FW 2.5 the trigger worked as expected. I have used the same settings for several firmware versions, since atleast 1.8 or something. |
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 6, 2022 16:55:30 GMT -5
This is the response I got from Buckeye in regards to my trigger issue: "I did some quick searching and found in the RMC-1 owners thread on Emotiva that there is a known "short coming" that it seems the RMC-1 triggers do not have either enough juice or are very sensitive to inductive loads generated by traditional mechanical relays (like the ones my amps use). Seems to be a problem especially for people trying to trigger sub amps." "I would suggest getting their 12v trigger module that takes a trigger signal and beefs it up before sending it on to the amps." Part of the response above was removed due to their personal interaction with Emotiva. I did order the Emo ET-3 Trigger Expansion Module as suggested. Hope that does the trick because I really like the Buckey amps I got. I do seem to recall now some discussion about the Emo triggers but do not remember myself what the complete discussion or outcome was. Take care. This isn’t the same thing I reported. I don’t trigger my subs at all, they are on ”auto on”. Still my RMC-1 requires subwoofer or fronts to be checked in the trigger settings for it to power on my XPA-11 which I have all the other speakers connected to. I use trigger port 2 for my 2ch amp which drives my fronts which powers on just fine with only the fronts checked in the settings. Before FW 2.5 the trigger worked as expected. I have used the same settings for several firmware versions, since atleast 1.8 or something. Have to admit I have no idea what is going on with the trigger process or what might be the cause of the issue. In my case, the triggers on the HTP-1 worked fine in powering on both of my Buckeye amps. As soon as I replaced it with the RMC-1 the trigger process no longer worked. In the Trigger menu, I have everything checked in the RMC to power on. I don't know what would happen if I only had Main Power selected and nothing else. Suppose I could try that until I get the ET-3. Best regards. |
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Post by jbrunwa on Mar 6, 2022 17:17:58 GMT -5
This isn’t the same thing I reported. I don’t trigger my subs at all, they are on ”auto on”. Still my RMC-1 requires subwoofer or fronts to be checked in the trigger settings for it to power on my XPA-11 which I have all the other speakers connected to. I use trigger port 2 for my 2ch amp which drives my fronts which powers on just fine with only the fronts checked in the settings. Before FW 2.5 the trigger worked as expected. I have used the same settings for several firmware versions, since atleast 1.8 or something. Have to admit I have no idea what is going on with the trigger process or what might be the cause of the issue. In my case, the triggers on the HTP-1 worked fine in powering on both of my Buckeye amps. As soon as I replaced it with the RMC-1 the trigger process no longer worked. In the Trigger menu, I have everything checked in the RMC to power on. I don't know what would happen if I only had Main Power selected and nothing else. Suppose I could try that until I get the ET-3. Best regards. You might want to do a quick check with a voltmeter to see if you can measure 12V DC out on the trigger out cable. |
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 6, 2022 17:36:20 GMT -5
Have to admit I have no idea what is going on with the trigger process or what might be the cause of the issue. In my case, the triggers on the HTP-1 worked fine in powering on both of my Buckeye amps. As soon as I replaced it with the RMC-1 the trigger process no longer worked. In the Trigger menu, I have everything checked in the RMC to power on. I don't know what would happen if I only had Main Power selected and nothing else. Suppose I could try that until I get the ET-3. Best regards. You might want to do a quick check with a voltmeter to see if you can measure 12V DC out on the trigger out cable. Could you possibly give an example of a decently priced meter that I could get? Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks. |
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Post by jbrunwa on Mar 6, 2022 18:54:36 GMT -5
You might want to do a quick check with a voltmeter to see if you can measure 12V DC out on the trigger out cable. Could you possibly give an example of a decently priced meter that I could get? Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks. This is a very inexpensive UL listed model. The disadvantage is the unusual battery, probably because the meter is very small but it has decent features at a rock bottom price. But batteries usually last a really long time, like maybe years. It’s manual ranging so you need to select the range. Amazon makes a slightly more expensive autoranging meter. Fluke is my go to brand but they are not inexpensive and you need to be sure you buy a model that is warrantied for your country as there are sellers that grey market. www.amazon.com/dp/B00SF3SQ50/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_WQWNT2APE0TS8C2R77SE |
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 6, 2022 18:59:02 GMT -5
Thank you very much!!
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Post by 5channels on Mar 6, 2022 19:26:36 GMT -5
This isn’t the same thing I reported. I don’t trigger my subs at all, they are on ”auto on”. Still my RMC-1 requires subwoofer or fronts to be checked in the trigger settings for it to power on my XPA-11 which I have all the other speakers connected to. I use trigger port 2 for my 2ch amp which drives my fronts which powers on just fine with only the fronts checked in the settings. Before FW 2.5 the trigger worked as expected. I have used the same settings for several firmware versions, since atleast 1.8 or something. Have to admit I have no idea what is going on with the trigger process or what might be the cause of the issue. In my case, the triggers on the HTP-1 worked fine in powering on both of my Buckeye amps. As soon as I replaced it with the RMC-1 the trigger process no longer worked. In the Trigger menu, I have everything checked in the RMC to power on. I don't know what would happen if I only had Main Power selected and nothing else. Suppose I could try that until I get the ET-3. Best regards. Are you sure you did not plug the trigger cable into the IR Input or IR Output jack? They are right next to the trigger jacks. |
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Post by Thunderduck on Mar 6, 2022 19:50:59 GMT -5
Have to admit I have no idea what is going on with the trigger process or what might be the cause of the issue. In my case, the triggers on the HTP-1 worked fine in powering on both of my Buckeye amps. As soon as I replaced it with the RMC-1 the trigger process no longer worked. In the Trigger menu, I have everything checked in the RMC to power on. I don't know what would happen if I only had Main Power selected and nothing else. Suppose I could try that until I get the ET-3. Best regards. Are you sure you did not plug the trigger cable into the IR Input or IR Output jack? They are right next to the trigger jacks. With me, anything is possible. I am sure I got it right but will double check in the morning. No time to check now. Thanks for the suggestion! EDIT: Just checked the back panel photos and I am positive that I had the cables plugged into the proper output jacks. |
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