AntonP
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RMC-1
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Post by AntonP on Jun 3, 2022 4:48:21 GMT -5
Do I understand correctly that if the front speakers are configured as small and I turn on the reference stereo mode via the OSD, then the full range signal goes to the front and the crossover is turned off (in fact, the front speakers go into large mode)?
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Jun 3, 2022 7:17:52 GMT -5
Do I understand correctly that if the front speakers are configured as small and I turn on the reference stereo mode via the OSD, then the full range signal goes to the front and the crossover is turned off (in fact, the front speakers go into large mode)? That's the fact Jack! Yes. But Reference Stereo is not available via the remote's Mode Up/Down quick menu when Fronts are setup as Small. It takes more effort to get Reference Stereo to be chosen with Small Fronts. Ref Stereo is available as a selection in the Input menu and selecting Ref Stereo as the choice for 5.1 Mode/2.1 Mode. It's also possible to select directly in the quick Mode menu on some mobile device Emotiva apps, like the one for iPad and my MacBook Air which can run ios apps, which is a dangerous oversight IMO. It should not be something that can be changed easily. I understand why it should be a choice in the Input menu, because some may want to setup sufficiently large speakers as Small for some inputs and uses, and Large for others. |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jun 3, 2022 10:02:41 GMT -5
Do I understand correctly that if the front speakers are configured as small and I turn on the reference stereo mode via the OSD, then the full range signal goes to the front and the crossover is turned off (in fact, the front speakers go into large mode)? That's the fact Jack! Yes. But Reference Stereo is not available via the remote's Mode Up/Down quick menu when Fronts are setup as Small. It takes more effort to get Reference Stereo to be chosen with Small Fronts. Ref Stereo is available as a selection in the Input menu and selecting Ref Stereo as the choice for 5.1 Mode/2.1 Mode. It's also possible to select directly in the quick Mode menu on some mobile device Emotiva apps, like the one for iPad and my MacBook Air which can run ios apps, which is a dangerous oversight IMO. It should not be something that can be changed easily. I understand why it should be a choice in the Input menu, because some may want to setup sufficiently large speakers as Small for some inputs and uses, and Large for others. Reference mode can also be selected directly on the Harmony Hub ‘device’ for the G3P. I don’t think it’s all that dangerous because most of our front speakers were designed to be run full range, but just don’t have very good bass. Also, Reference Mode turns off all EQ, Dirac, Loudness, Tone controls, etc, so any possibly damaging bass boost is eliminated. You’re right though that it’s best to avoid doing it inadvertently. Boom shaka laka laka |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Jun 3, 2022 18:24:25 GMT -5
I would just kill for proper working HDMI, no way I pay for an upgrade card till its proven that it works about to sell my XMC-2 due to the simple fact that my comcast box locks it up every time I dont switch off that input before turning everything off  I may have a fix for you. It worked for me. Like your issue, mine was when TiVo is left on 24/7, the processor is set for VRO but the processor could be On or in VRO and the issue would occur, the processor's active input is TiVo, and the tv is turned off for more than 15 minutes, after which the processor locks up. My issue only started happening a few weeks ago when I changed from an all copper HDMI cable to Fiber Optic. I have yet to get a proper response from Ruipro or any other company I've contacted about what might be different in a fiber optic cable vs an all copper HDMI cable, nobody will say. I think it has to do with one way signal in the circuitry for converting copper to fiber. I have a Sony 950G tv. There is a setting that I changed to help with a totally unrelated issue with a product that needs to use one of the USB ports on the tv for power. The setting is named: RS232C Control, and the options are Off, Via HDMI Port, Via Serial Port. The default is Via HDMI Port. I changed it to Via Serial Port. Problem gone. No more processor lockup. The last few times I've turned on the tv and the selected input was TiVo I fully expected the need to reboot the processor, but was surprised when the tv had video and audio. Today I purposely left the TiVo input active when I turned off the tv. When I got home I turned on the tv and was shocked that no reboot was needed! I still want to know what is different, electrically, about a fiber optic cable that might cause a disruption to some periodic communication in a standby scenario. edit: HDMI is not simple. So many things can cause an issue. As I stated in another post, as of 2013 it was estimated that 1 in 7 systems will have a product that will suffer from HDCP Lockup. Mine it seems was exacerbated by a change in HDMI cable type, but the setting that is really the cause is a "Control Function for Professional Use" as stated in the menu of my tv settings.
To solve an issue: Every possible setting in every device must be considered, no matter how unrelated it may seem. |
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Post by sandbagger on Jun 6, 2022 18:58:15 GMT -5
I would just kill for proper working HDMI, no way I pay for an upgrade card till its proven that it works about to sell my XMC-2 due to the simple fact that my comcast box locks it up every time I dont switch off that input before turning everything off
To solve an issue: Every possible setting in every device must be considered, no matter how unrelated it may seem.I will check and see if those selections are even available on the projector but.... in bold above, I took all the connections off ALL OF THEM, had only the power cord and the HDMI from the Comcast box and it would lock up based on that it kind of seems like its either a comcast or Emotive device problem. what boggles my mind is I cant believe I am the only person using that comcast box on the forum or that Emo has ever had |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Jun 6, 2022 21:20:39 GMT -5
To solve an issue: Every possible setting in every device must be considered, no matter how unrelated it may seem.I will check and see if those selections are even available on the projector but.... in bold above, I took all the connections off ALL OF THEM, had only the power cord and the HDMI from the Comcast box and it would lock up based on that it kind of seems like its either a comcast or Emotive device problem. what boggles my mind is I cant believe I am the only person using that comcast box on the forum or that Emo has ever had I didn't realize a projector was involved. What brand and model please? |
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Post by sandbagger on Jun 7, 2022 17:11:15 GMT -5
I will check and see if those selections are even available on the projector but.... in bold above, I took all the connections off ALL OF THEM, had only the power cord and the HDMI from the Comcast box and it would lock up based on that it kind of seems like its either a comcast or Emotive device problem. what boggles my mind is I cant believe I am the only person using that comcast box on the forum or that Emo has ever had I didn't realize a projector was involved. What brand and model please? JVC DLA-RS4910 with the latest FW too |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Jun 7, 2022 17:28:13 GMT -5
I didn't realize a projector was involved. What brand and model please? JVC DLA-RS4910 with the latest FW too Please look for this setting in the menu for the projector and change it to the opposite of however it is set. The RS232 setting can cause the processor to lockup as I discovered recently.  |
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Post by dvcdude on Jun 8, 2022 7:25:30 GMT -5
I do not want to start a huge debate or bru ha, but just wondering if there is any estimate on when the next major update will arrive?
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Post by tngiloy on Jun 8, 2022 9:23:19 GMT -5
I do not want to start a huge debate or bru ha, but just wondering if there is any estimate on when the next major update will arrive? Get a magic 8-Ball and ask it. It will be as accurate as any answer you will get here. Until a firmware update is officially announced there can only be guesses. On a more positive note, each day that passes is one day closer to the next update. But also, each day that passes is one day closer to my death. Hopefully the former comes before the latter. |
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Post by rudiedj23 on Jun 8, 2022 11:57:41 GMT -5
Hey everyone, if I want to start off by calibrating my RMC-IL the old school way with Radio Shack meter with 75db what is the reference volume of the RMC?
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NicS
Sensei
Will the G4 upgrade help quell my RMC1-L frustrations...?
Posts: 238
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Post by NicS on Jun 8, 2022 16:49:13 GMT -5
I do not want to start a huge debate or bru ha, but just wondering if there is any estimate on when the next major update will arrive? Well, I was told "in a few weeks" more than four months ago. Last time I checked it was "about two weeks away." This can only mean that once under the hood of the firmware, lots of issues were found. If you look at the test results of the RMC1 that Amir did on ASR, there are jitter issues that are quite pronounced and probably part of the firmware fixes. There were many things promised on release of XMC-2 / RMC-1 / L series, like DSD via USB that still are not available. And even if they are, it won't be DSD native, it'll be DoP in a PCM wrapper to be decoded. I'm told this is not problematic, but I'll believe it when I hear it. The main issue is the resolution of the HDMI handshake issue that plagues most of us here. It is astonishing that when I borrowed a $300 AVR from a friend, all the HDMI compatibility issues I have been having with the RMC1-L simply were not present in a low end device. No lag in changing inputs. No weird pops and clicks. No distorted sound when a codek is not properly recognized. No lock-ups. No freezes. How can an entry level Sony work better than a high end unit like the RMC1-L? I'm sure we all feel the same way. We have a connection to this company because they are decent people and make a decent product that in most cases exceed expectations, especially at the price. I can feel this loyalty give way to abject disillusionment. |
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Post by autocrat on Jun 8, 2022 17:01:20 GMT -5
If you look at the test results of the RMC1 that Amir did on ASR, there are jitter issues that are quite pronounced and probably part of the firmware fixes. Are you talking about the issues that were fixed more than 2 years ago? Hopefully they'll remain fixed in the next update. |
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NicS
Sensei
Will the G4 upgrade help quell my RMC1-L frustrations...?
Posts: 238
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Post by NicS on Jun 8, 2022 17:37:36 GMT -5
If you look at the test results of the RMC1 that Amir did on ASR, there are jitter issues that are quite pronounced and probably part of the firmware fixes. Are you talking about the issues that were fixed more than 2 years ago? Hopefully they'll remain fixed in the next update. No. I'm talking about the issues that linger from more than two years ago. These issues were not completely fixed. Some issues had improvements but not fixes. I'm not expecting miracles with anything I buy. As a product developer, in bth hardware and software, I am more than sympathetic to the issues that Emotiva is trying to address. I'm not throwing my arms up in a reactionary way. But I'm beginning to draw my line in the sand. |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jun 8, 2022 19:50:00 GMT -5
Hey everyone, if I want to start off by calibrating my RMC-IL the old school way with Radio Shack meter with 75db what is the reference volume of the RMC? There really isn’t a reference volume for setting levels, and each of our SPLs will be different based on the sensitivity of our amps and speakers. I usually use the ‘Medium’ setting in Levels which typically gives an SPL in the mid 70’s, I measure the SPL (C) my Center speaker produces at ‘0’, and then adjust my other speakers to that SPL. You could use one of your L/Rs as well. Others may do it differently. |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Jun 8, 2022 20:02:34 GMT -5
Hey everyone, if I want to start off by calibrating my RMC-IL the old school way with Radio Shack meter with 75db what is the reference volume of the RMC? I do the same as AudioHTIT. One channel remains at 0.0dB, the others are leveled to match. |
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Post by panasonicst60 on Jun 9, 2022 9:24:34 GMT -5
Hey everyone, if I want to start off by calibrating my RMC-IL the old school way with Radio Shack meter with 75db what is the reference volume of the RMC? There really isn’t a reference volume for setting levels, and each of our SPLs will be different based on the sensitivity of our amps and speakers. I usually use the ‘Medium’ setting in Levels which typically gives an SPL in the mid 70’s, I measure the SPL (C) my Center speaker produces at ‘0’, and then adjust my other speakers to that SPL. You could use one of your L/Rs as well. Others may do it differently. I wouldn't use the internal pink noise to do the leveling as it bypass a lot of things(Dirac, etc) but rather you should use REW. Also the internal is a full band pink. You want a limited band pink between 500 Hz and 2 kHz for speaker leveling. |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jun 9, 2022 12:35:02 GMT -5
There really isn’t a reference volume for setting levels, and each of our SPLs will be different based on the sensitivity of our amps and speakers. I usually use the ‘Medium’ setting in Levels which typically gives an SPL in the mid 70’s, I measure the SPL (C) my Center speaker produces at ‘0’, and then adjust my other speakers to that SPL. You could use one of your L/Rs as well. Others may do it differently. I wouldn't use the internal pink noise to do the leveling as it bypass a lot of things(Dirac, etc) but rather you should use REW. Also the internal is a full band pink. You want a limited band pink between 500 Hz and 2 kHz for speaker leveling. Sure, there’s always a better way, but if you read his OP you see he wants to use his RS meter for ‘old school’ leveling, I think it and internal tones will do a good job when done right. |
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Post by panasonicst60 on Jun 9, 2022 13:10:27 GMT -5
I wouldn't use the internal pink noise to do the leveling as it bypass a lot of things(Dirac, etc) but rather you should use REW. Also the internal is a full band pink. You want a limited band pink between 500 Hz and 2 kHz for speaker leveling. Sure, there’s always a better way, but if you read his OP you see he wants to use his RS meter for ‘old school’ leveling, I think it and internal tones will do a good job when done right. I disagree. It's not a better way, but the correct way. The other way is wrong and will not get the correct leveling. |
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Post by marcl on Jun 9, 2022 13:35:36 GMT -5
There really isn’t a reference volume for setting levels, and each of our SPLs will be different based on the sensitivity of our amps and speakers. I usually use the ‘Medium’ setting in Levels which typically gives an SPL in the mid 70’s, I measure the SPL (C) my Center speaker produces at ‘0’, and then adjust my other speakers to that SPL. You could use one of your L/Rs as well. Others may do it differently. I wouldn't use the internal pink noise to do the leveling as it bypass a lot of things(Dirac, etc) but rather you should use REW. Also the internal is a full band pink. You want a limited band pink between 500 Hz and 2 kHz for speaker leveling. Actually ... while I agree that it's best to use the REW Signal Generator and SPL Meter ... it's a little more complicated ... First, the pink noise from the processor does play with whatever Equalization slot is active. I just tried it with a Dirac slot vs my User slot (which has no filters) and the response follows what I would expect with the Dirac slot having a flatter profile. Here's my left front which is full range with processor noise up to 2KHz then rolling off ... (ignore the 40Hz peak ... that's ambient noise from a nearby refrigerator)  REW band limited 500-2KHz for the left front looks like this ...  Processor Level noise appears to NOT include bass management, as this response from my front top speaker shows it's falloff below 100Hz ...  Testing small speakers from REW would of course include bass management, though it wouldn't matter since you would use the 500-2kHz speaker cal noise. The response for the sub processor noise represents the 120Hz 12db/octave low pass filter that is applied to the LFE channel  The sub response with REW noise band limited 30-80Hz looks like this ...  But comparing the levels of the processor sub noise to the REW sub noise, the processor sub noise measured +5db above the left front, while the REW noise measured +10db above the left front. I would expect +10db or 0db, but not something in between. The REW measurement has to be correct because the processor should (and does) add the +10db required for the LFE channel. Of course the other issue is that we can only measure standard 7.1 speaker arrangement with REW. We have to use the processor noise to check Atmos tops. I normally use REW to set the 7.1 levels, then use left front as a reference and set the top speaker levels using the processor noise. |
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