geebo
Emo VIPs
"Too bad that all the people who know how to run the country are driving taxicabs and cutting hair"
Posts: 24,211
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Post by geebo on Jul 18, 2020 11:40:40 GMT -5
That is not normal, especially with 1.10 where they got the layer 1 stuff fixed. I know you’ve done a lot of troubleshooting with this, but mine only ‘disconnects’ temporarily now (like I described above). In regards to the NIC, mine is the same as it's always been. Fortunately, I'm able to leave my unit in the standby mode that allows TV to still work. Due to that, I'm not having to cycle the power much anymore, thus having more uptime on the NIC. If I lose power, or have to kill the power for any reason, it is a circus to get the NIC back online. Never had a lick of trouble with XMC-1 or RMC-1L networking. I use low power standby and the network sees the processors every time I boot so long as I wait a minute between a shutdown and reboot. I have the RMC-1L connected directly to an Asus router configured as a wireless bridge that's linked up with my main Asus router downstairs.
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Post by megash0n on Jul 18, 2020 12:07:53 GMT -5
In regards to the NIC, mine is the same as it's always been. Fortunately, I'm able to leave my unit in the standby mode that allows TV to still work. Due to that, I'm not having to cycle the power much anymore, thus having more uptime on the NIC. If I lose power, or have to kill the power for any reason, it is a circus to get the NIC back online. Never had a lick of trouble with XMC-1 or RMC-1L networking. I use low power standby and the network sees the processors every time I boot so long as I wait a minute between a shutdown and reboot. I have the RMC-1L connected directly to an Asus router configured as a wireless bridge that's linked up with my main Asus router downstairs. I think that's the key. There is a waiting period that needs to occur before you boot it up. Ideally, there would be some error-handling that restarted the network stack due to various reasons. I'm sure we'll get there.
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geebo
Emo VIPs
"Too bad that all the people who know how to run the country are driving taxicabs and cutting hair"
Posts: 24,211
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Post by geebo on Jul 18, 2020 12:26:46 GMT -5
Never had a lick of trouble with XMC-1 or RMC-1L networking. I use low power standby and the network sees the processors every time I boot so long as I wait a minute between a shutdown and reboot. I have the RMC-1L connected directly to an Asus router configured as a wireless bridge that's linked up with my main Asus router downstairs. I think that's the key. There is a waiting period that needs to occur before you boot it up. Ideally, there would be some error-handling that restarted the network stack due to various reasons. I'm sure we'll get there. I always wait at least 60 seconds between a shutdown and a reboot. Keith has said the NIC needs a little time to "reset" before re-starting the processors or you risk it not being seen. 60 seconds is more than enough.
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Post by megash0n on Jul 18, 2020 14:06:05 GMT -5
I think that's the key. There is a waiting period that needs to occur before you boot it up. Ideally, there would be some error-handling that restarted the network stack due to various reasons. I'm sure we'll get there. I always wait at least 60 seconds between a shutdown and a reboot. Keith has said the NIC needs a little time to "reset" before re-starting the processors or you risk it not being seen. 60 seconds is more than enough. I always count to 15 with the switch off, flip it back on for 15, then hit the power button. It usually takes a few times. I can leave it off all day and it won't come back on without the hassle. Luckily the low power mode.. Or whatever it is, keeps me from having to fuss with it so much.
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Post by hsamwel on Jul 18, 2020 15:45:07 GMT -5
I always wait at least 60 seconds between a shutdown and a reboot. Keith has said the NIC needs a little time to "reset" before re-starting the processors or you risk it not being seen. 60 seconds is more than enough. I always count to 15 with the switch off, flip it back on for 15, then hit the power button. It usually takes a few times. I can leave it off all day and it won't come back on without the hassle. Luckily the low power mode.. Or whatever it is, keeps me from having to fuss with it so much. As I said no troubles with network.. Although haven’t tried if it disconnects when driving ”heavy stuff”.. There must be something wrong with either your processor or your internet/network. How do you have your network setup? Router make & model? firmware? Switch? I have an ASUS router (RT-AC86U) with custom firmware (Merlin). Also a Netgear switch which serves all my stuff in the HT room. All CAT6 or better cables. As I said, I use DHCP with assigned IP adresses for all my gear. Every unit that can use ethernet rather than wifi. I do reboot my routers regulary also. Atleast every 2-4 months I guess. Keeps them fast and agile.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jul 18, 2020 16:09:22 GMT -5
... Although haven’t tried if it disconnects when driving ”heavy stuff”.. Put on a 4K disk or stream and then try to use the App in the middle of the movie, I’d be interested if it happens with others.
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Post by megash0n on Jul 18, 2020 16:33:23 GMT -5
I always count to 15 with the switch off, flip it back on for 15, then hit the power button. It usually takes a few times. I can leave it off all day and it won't come back on without the hassle. Luckily the low power mode.. Or whatever it is, keeps me from having to fuss with it so much. As I said no troubles with network.. Although haven’t tried if it disconnects when driving ”heavy stuff”.. There must be something wrong with either your processor or your internet/network. How do you have your network setup? Router make & model? firmware? Switch? I have an ASUS router (RT-AC86U) with custom firmware (Merlin). Also a Netgear switch which serves all my stuff in the HT room. All CAT6 or better cables. As I said, I use DHCP with assigned IP adresses for all my gear. Every unit that can use ethernet rather than wifi. I do reboot my routers regulary also. Atleast every 2-4 months I guess. Keeps them fast and agile. In attempt to not sound super defensive, I've been in IT for 23 years. I've installed and supported many small and large networks in my time. I am extremely capable in networking. I have over 25 different networked devices in my home. This processor is the only thing I have issues with. I can reproduce the issue without fail. This is more of an issue around Emotiva needing to enhance the software to prevent or remediate these sorts of issues. It just isn't a priority to be fixed.
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Post by megash0n on Jul 18, 2020 16:36:04 GMT -5
... Although haven’t tried if it disconnects when driving ”heavy stuff”.. Put on a 4K disk or stream and then try to use the App in the middle of the movie, I’d be interested if it happens with others. mine would stall or break during switching of inputs and such. I no longer have those "load" issues. It has been very stable once it is up and active. The issues now are that, if the unit does not boot in a specific way, you have to continue killing the power until it works. This could be resolved with some code.
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Post by 5channels on Jul 18, 2020 18:16:42 GMT -5
From what I gather, the new 2.x firmware is purpose built for hardware unique to the XMC-2, RMC-1 and RMC-1/L. 1.x versions are to varying degrees based on the XMC-1...read "baggage" I expect we will see big improvements all around with 2.x.
I do have the occasional network hiccup with the XMC-2, a quick trip to the equipment room in the basement...a flip of the power switch on the back and the handshakes commence.
The only kit I have in the good room are the speakers, subs and an iPad for control, the rest is underneath.
In my setup any gear with an RJ-45 is always hardwired, with an assigned IP managed by me. I only opt for DHCP with wireless devices if I have no option to hard code
I prefer to bounce my router once a week, when even the crickets are asleep.
The next few weeks will be a buzz
Cheers J
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Post by Mikomill on Jul 18, 2020 19:05:51 GMT -5
As I said no troubles with network.. Although haven’t tried if it disconnects when driving ”heavy stuff”.. There must be something wrong with either your processor or your internet/network. How do you have your network setup? Router make & model? firmware? Switch? I have an ASUS router (RT-AC86U) with custom firmware (Merlin). Also a Netgear switch which serves all my stuff in the HT room. All CAT6 or better cables. As I said, I use DHCP with assigned IP adresses for all my gear. Every unit that can use ethernet rather than wifi. I do reboot my routers regulary also. Atleast every 2-4 months I guess. Keeps them fast and agile. In attempt to not sound super defensive, I've been in IT for 23 years. I've installed and supported many small and large networks in my time. I am extremely capable in networking. I have over 25 different networked devices in my home. This processor is the only thing I have issues with. I can reproduce the issue without fail. This is more of an issue around Emotiva needing to enhance the software to prevent or remediate these sorts of issues. It just isn't a priority to be fixed. I never worked in IT and i've had no trouble at all with the app and i've been using it since the XMC-1. I've also had no trouble at all with the RMC-1L that i now have. It worked great since the day i got it. The only problems i had was because i did something wrong when i set it up. Again, I'm not a self proclaimed IT expert and the Emotiva software works great for me...hmmm.
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Post by megash0n on Jul 18, 2020 19:10:48 GMT -5
In attempt to not sound super defensive, I've been in IT for 23 years. I've installed and supported many small and large networks in my time. I am extremely capable in networking. I have over 25 different networked devices in my home. This processor is the only thing I have issues with. I can reproduce the issue without fail. This is more of an issue around Emotiva needing to enhance the software to prevent or remediate these sorts of issues. It just isn't a priority to be fixed. I never worked in IT and i've had no trouble at all with the app and i've been using it since the XMC-1. I've also had no trouble at all with the RMC-1L that i now have. It worked great since the day i got it. The only problems i had was because i did something wrong when i set it up. Again, I'm not a self proclaimed IT expert and the Emotiva software works great for me...hmmm. I think we've all well documented the inconsistencies at times. It is what it is. Luckily the unit doesn't hang causing a full reboot multiple times a week anymore, so I don't have near the fits with it. This is however a known issue they've acknowledged. Secondly, this issue isn't really a network issue. It's a hardware issue. It just happens to be the hardware that allows networking. Edit: I apologize. I responded to the NIC issue. I don't know what's up with the app. Installed it on my Android and the wife's iPhone. Both behave identically. It will turn on the RMC but not off. Everything on the zone 2 screen works. Nothing on any other screen works. I gave up and wrote (borrowed) code to integrate the network api to my home automation system. That is far more functional anyways.
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Post by 5channels on Jul 18, 2020 19:17:37 GMT -5
But wouldn't you like a more feature rich app for your processor?
I would as I use mine mostly for audio. If I want to make any settings changes I have to power on the screen...blah, blah. What I think would be even better and not device dependent, is a web app that you can access using the browser of your choice from any device, a smartphone, a tablet and laptop etc. Enter the IP of the processor into the address bar and you are off to the races, or wherever you wish to go. One plus is no overlay on your screen, changes can be more dynamic and seamless.
Cheers J
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Post by Mikomill on Jul 18, 2020 19:25:42 GMT -5
I never worked in IT and i've had no trouble at all with the app and i've been using it since the XMC-1. I've also had no trouble at all with the RMC-1L that i now have. It worked great since the day i got it. The only problems i had was because i did something wrong when i set it up. Again, I'm not a self proclaimed IT expert and the Emotiva software works great for me...hmmm. I think we've all well documented the inconsistencies at times. It is what it is. Luckily the unit doesn't hang causing a full reboot multiple times a week anymore, so I don't have near the fits with it. This is however a known issue they've acknowledged. Secondly, this issue isn't really a network issue. It's a hardware issue. It just happens to be the hardware that allows networking. Again, no problems with any of the hardware on my RMC-1l, everything works the way it was designed to and it sounds fantastic. Much better and a lot more stable then the Rotel and Marantz that i had before I got the RMC-1L. Of course, Improvements are always appreciated
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Post by ttocs on Jul 18, 2020 19:46:46 GMT -5
I always wait at least 60 seconds between a shutdown and a reboot. Keith has said the NIC needs a little time to "reset" before re-starting the processors or you risk it not being seen. 60 seconds is more than enough. I always count to 15 with the switch off, flip it back on for 15, then hit the power button. It usually takes a few times. I can leave it off all day and it won't come back on without the hassle. Luckily the low power mode.. Or whatever it is, keeps me from having to fuss with it so much. After one of the firmware updates a while ago, May? early June? don't recall. I had a very consistent problem with the network and it allowed me to do lots of testing over a few days. I found that if I timed 40 seconds of OFF time that the results were inconsistent of getting the NIC to Link. But if I waited 50 seconds the NIC got a Link every time. So I wait one minute any time I do a warm or cold boot. I thought I came up with something interesting so I told a buddy of mine who took care of the network in all the grade schools in my town, and he informed me of their standing rule for doing a bounce. Never heard that term before. Their rule is nothing less than 45 seconds. When a teacher comes in with a network issue, the first question is did they follow the rule? If they answer "but it worked before this way", he tells them to do it again. Saved him lots of time traveling between the schools.
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Post by foggy1956 on Jul 18, 2020 19:49:13 GMT -5
But wouldn't you like a more feature rich app for your processor? I would as I use mine mostly for audio. If I want to make any settings changes I have to power on the screen...blah, blah. What I think would be even better and not device dependent, is a web app that you can access using the browser of your choice from any device, a smartphone, a tablet and laptop etc. Enter the IP of the processor into the address bar and you are off to the races, or wherever you wish to go. One plus is no overlay on your screen, changes can be more dynamic and seamless. Cheers J I haven't been paying attention so please be gentle but wouldn't a harmony hub be far less hassle?
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Post by jjkessler on Jul 19, 2020 11:19:15 GMT -5
On my RMC-1L, if I am using dual subs with an XLR Y splitter, which sub connector Would I connect into (L or R sub} and what do I set the channel configuration to? My goal is to have DIRAC measure correct as if it were a single sub
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Post by ttocs on Jul 19, 2020 11:30:00 GMT -5
On my RMC-1L, if I am using dual subs with an XLR Y splitter, which sub connector Would I connect into (L or R sub} and what do I set the channel configuration to? My goal is to have DIRAC measure correct as if it were a single sub I believe the manual says to use the Left set to Mono. Or use Center Sub set to Mono. edit: I found the reference in the manual: Note: If you plan to connect two subs to the Left Sub and Right Sub outputs, then you must configure the Left/Right Subs outputs as Dual Mono. If you plan to connect only a single sub to those outputs, then you MUST connect it to the Left Sub output, and you must configure the Left/Right Subs as Mono. When Left/Right Subs is set to Mono ONLY the Left Sub output is active. (This setting is independent from the configuration of the Center Sub output.)
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Post by jjkessler on Jul 19, 2020 11:35:37 GMT -5
That’s exactly what I was looking for, thank you
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Post by marcl on Jul 19, 2020 12:48:20 GMT -5
I don't believe this is explicitly documented in the Manual, but may be useful to anyone who wants to use the Center Subwoofer output only for LFE ... but you still want bass management for speakers other than your Large Left/Right Fronts.
If you set Center Subwoofer to LFE, and Left/Right Subwoofer to None, and Left/Right Front speakers to Large, then the following happens:
1 - LFE content from x.1.y sources goes only to the Center Subwoofer 2 - Bass Management content for all speakers configured as Small goes to Left/Right Front speakers in mono 3 - Enhanced Bass option is not available
If you have other speakers configured as Large, Bass Management may go to them too ... I was not able to test this scenario.
If you want Dirac to properly correct multiple subs, you would use a Y connector or miniDSP on the Center Subwoofer output.
If you have some different subs for music listening, they can be connected to the Left/Right Front speakers in this scenario and they would provide sub bass for the bass-managed speakers also.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jul 19, 2020 15:06:51 GMT -5
But wouldn't you like a more feature rich app for your processor? I would as I use mine mostly for audio. If I want to make any settings changes I have to power on the screen...blah, blah. What I think would be even better and not device dependent, is a web app that you can access using the browser of your choice from any device, a smartphone, a tablet and laptop etc. Enter the IP of the processor into the address bar and you are off to the races, or wherever you wish to go. One plus is no overlay on your screen, changes can be more dynamic and seamless. Cheers J I haven't been paying attention so please be gentle but wouldn't a harmony hub be far less hassle? I have and use both, and actually use the Harmony Hub Extender for home automation as well as the Hub controlling all my components. But while the Harmony works, I find it’s interface primitive and limited, there are things the App does much more intuitively, not to mention it has feedback, including the display. The Harmony can hit all the current controls, and if they release the new command set it could do even more, but it will still be a so so UI that has limited customization. So yes, less hassle, but less useful. I would love to design and build an app, but those days are gone.
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