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Post by AudioHTIT on Jul 18, 2020 10:17:43 GMT -5
Broken? It has worked fine for me ever since I installed it. Don’t even have issues with network dropping. My router setup is DHCP with manually assigned IPs locked to MAC adresses. This way I can setup my RMC-1 with static IP. Works every time and have never noticed a network drop. Although looking simple and having ”XMC-1” logos the app works as intended. Having full setup and remote on an app in my iPad would be fantastic though. A good way for Emotiva to get a GUI without having to rewrite the whole processor code. Although having a professional GUI designer design the app would be a GOOD idea. Especially the speaker and input setup would benefit hughly with a graphical view of the connections and speaker placements. Speaker placements with setups above 7.1 is a mess with the text based menu system except for the hardcore users. Ours doesn't work on iOS or Android. You can power the unit on, and control zone 2, but nothing else works. Been this way the whole time. The code I reworked using python and the network api works consistently as long as the network link is up. That is not normal, especially with 1.10 where they got the layer 1 stuff fixed. I know you’ve done a lot of troubleshooting with this, but mine only ‘disconnects’ temporarily now (like I described above).
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Post by 5channels on Jul 18, 2020 18:16:42 GMT -5
From what I gather, the new 2.x firmware is purpose built for hardware unique to the XMC-2, RMC-1 and RMC-1/L. 1.x versions are to varying degrees based on the XMC-1...read "baggage" I expect we will see big improvements all around with 2.x.
I do have the occasional network hiccup with the XMC-2, a quick trip to the equipment room in the basement...a flip of the power switch on the back and the handshakes commence.
The only kit I have in the good room are the speakers, subs and an iPad for control, the rest is underneath.
In my setup any gear with an RJ-45 is always hardwired, with an assigned IP managed by me. I only opt for DHCP with wireless devices if I have no option to hard code
I prefer to bounce my router once a week, when even the crickets are asleep.
The next few weeks will be a buzz
Cheers J
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jul 19, 2020 15:06:51 GMT -5
But wouldn't you like a more feature rich app for your processor? I would as I use mine mostly for audio. If I want to make any settings changes I have to power on the screen...blah, blah. What I think would be even better and not device dependent, is a web app that you can access using the browser of your choice from any device, a smartphone, a tablet and laptop etc. Enter the IP of the processor into the address bar and you are off to the races, or wherever you wish to go. One plus is no overlay on your screen, changes can be more dynamic and seamless. Cheers J I haven't been paying attention so please be gentle but wouldn't a harmony hub be far less hassle? I have and use both, and actually use the Harmony Hub Extender for home automation as well as the Hub controlling all my components. But while the Harmony works, I find it’s interface primitive and limited, there are things the App does much more intuitively, not to mention it has feedback, including the display. The Harmony can hit all the current controls, and if they release the new command set it could do even more, but it will still be a so so UI that has limited customization. So yes, less hassle, but less useful. I would love to design and build an app, but those days are gone.
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Post by sourgrapes on Jul 20, 2020 9:08:14 GMT -5
Here is a screenshot of my UniFi Management Console. You can sort by any of the column headers. This management software runs on my Windows PC, but as soon as I get the EDNIB, it will be running on that full time in my network closet. Like MegashOn said, the Unifi line is a great prosumer product line that can be mix and matched depending on network size and performance requirements. I currently have a UDMP, (integration of router/gateway, controller, and Video Security). The main reason I have the UDMP though is it's horsepower to support symmetric 1Gbps with DPS/IPS/QoS. I use RADIUS MAC authentication to have clients automatically assigned to appropriate segregated VLANs with a single SSID (eg. data, camera, iot, etc). While Ubiquity doesn't currently have a AX product in general release, they do have 2x products that are in user "Early Access" testing. That usually means products will be available in 1-2mo. Additionally, if you desire, you can always sign up for Early Access and have the ability to purchase these types of early HW for testing.
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Post by ttocs on Sept 6, 2020 15:02:42 GMT -5
Mine left itself in Video Remains On when the FW update finished, so when I turned it on it was only a few seconds to reach full functionality. The firmware has a nice feature whereby if you select an empty HDMI input it will hunt for a connection but after a few seconds the processor will output a black screen which now allows the OSD to work. I've tried a few cycles of leaving the XMC-2 on, turning off the tv and ATV4K and leaving them off for about 20 minutes. No failed results yet. I'll see what happens overnight. ttocs , are you using a POE switch? I just moved my XMC-2 to a non-POE switch hoping that might have something to do with it. Will let you know if it freezes today. I use an Asus RT-AC68U wifi router. It's PPPOE capable. I had to look to see where this was in the control panel and I found it in the WAN Config. It's set to "Automatic IP". I see PPPOE on the dropdown list but it's not enabled.
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Post by bitzerjdb on Sept 6, 2020 20:39:42 GMT -5
ttocs , are you using a POE switch? I just moved my XMC-2 to a non-POE switch hoping that might have something to do with it. Will let you know if it freezes today. I use an Asus RT-AC68U wifi router. It's PPPOE capable. I had to look to see where this was in the control panel and I found it in the WAN Config. It's set to "Automatic IP". I see PPPOE on the dropdown list but it's not enabled. Hold on...two very different things. POE is Power over Ethernet....PPPOE is the way the router authenticates with the ISP. They have nothing to do with each other. Your WAN setting has nothing to do with the LAN side of the router.
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Post by ttocs on Sept 6, 2020 20:43:43 GMT -5
I use an Asus RT-AC68U wifi router. It's PPPOE capable. I had to look to see where this was in the control panel and I found it in the WAN Config. It's set to "Automatic IP". I see PPPOE on the dropdown list but it's not enabled. Hold on...two very different things. POE is Power over Ethernet....PPPOE is the way the router authenticates with the ISP. They have nothing to do with each other. Your WAN setting has nothing to do with the LAN side of the router. Thanks for the clarification! I definitely don't use Power Over Ethernet.
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Post by mikoz on Sept 8, 2020 10:21:29 GMT -5
The "disappearing NIC" was actually one of the top reasons why I ditched the RMC-1. The ethernet port sometimes doesn't come up, sometimes dies when it's up. You wouldn't notice this most likely unless you're using the mobile app or trying to use Dirac, since the RMC-1 doesn't stream nor does it allow a FW update over ethernet, the port isn't widely used (at least not until Dirac was available) so many people probably don't even know they have a problem. The fact that the NIC doesn't work at boot up sometimes suggests either a gross HW problem or a kernel driver issue. If you could login and do a "dmesg" you might see what the ring buffer reports. Ethernet ports are the bread and butter of embedded linux setups, they just have to work since you don't have a display for the operating system. The RMC1's just doesn't work reliably for many people. It's not a network setup issue, it's not a cable issue, it's not a router issue, it's not a DHCP vs static issue.......it's an RMC1 issue.
I ran "ping -a 192.168.x.x" on the RMC-1 for hours from another linux box and would observe sometimes it just stops working, the only way it would come back is to reboot and then that didn't always fix it. It's not just me, many others have reported the same problems. Just find the IP address of your RMC1 and run a ping in a loop for 24 hours with that address on DHCP reserve (as configured by your router) or the lease time set very long. If there was a sliver lining, I usually was rebooting anyway before the NIC issue because a problem because it was locked up, so it wasn't any "extra effort". The Zwave controlled switch I used contains a mechanical relay which of course will eventually wear out, so I probably have come a lot closer to the MTTF of the zwave relay because of the RMC1. At least my family won't have to say "Echo, turn off RMC1"... "Echo turn on RMC1" anymore. haha.
Same deal as with the HDMI sources... if you plug it [HDMI source, ethernet cables to a valid LAN, etc], it should just work, but it doesn't. FW updates should always work, there should never be a "just try again a few times" process. The entire process stinks of undefined behavior. The fact that some people have good luck, some bad, some have to roll back, some do not... it's all indicative of code that simply doesn't behave properly. For example, in C: you can do this: int aaa[2]; aaa[3]=555;
Now, depending on how the stack is setup by the OS, the memory represented by aaa[3] may contain 555, or you may have clobbered another process using that memory causing undefined behavior. I strongly believe this type of stuff is going on with the code, it explains so much.
I wish you luck. X9 arrives this week.
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs
"We made too many of the wrong mistakes." - Yogi Berra
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Post by cawgijoe on Sept 8, 2020 10:47:57 GMT -5
The "disappearing NIC" was actually one of the top reasons why I ditched the RMC-1. The ethernet port sometimes doesn't come up, sometimes dies when it's up. You wouldn't notice this most likely unless you're using the mobile app or trying to use Dirac, since the RMC-1 doesn't stream nor does it allow a FW update over ethernet, the port isn't widely used (at least not until Dirac was available) so many people probably don't even know they have a problem. The fact that the NIC doesn't work at boot up sometimes suggests either a gross HW problem or a kernel driver issue. If you could login and do a "dmesg" you might see what the ring buffer reports. Ethernet ports are the bread and butter of embedded linux setups, they just have to work since you don't have a display for the operating system. The RMC1's just doesn't work reliably for many people. It's not a network setup issue, it's not a cable issue, it's not a router issue, it's not a DHCP vs static issue.......it's an RMC1 issue. I ran "ping -a 192.168.x.x" on the RMC-1 for hours from another linux box and would observe sometimes it just stops working, the only way it would come back is to reboot and then that didn't always fix it. It's not just me, many others have reported the same problems. Just find the IP address of your RMC1 and run a ping in a loop for 24 hours with that address on DHCP reserve (as configured by your router) or the lease time set very long. If there was a sliver lining, I usually was rebooting anyway before the NIC issue because a problem because it was locked up, so it wasn't any "extra effort". The Zwave controlled switch I used contains a mechanical relay which of course will eventually wear out, so I probably have come a lot closer to the MTTF of the zwave relay because of the RMC1. At least my family won't have to say "Echo, turn off RMC1"... "Echo turn on RMC1" anymore. haha. Same deal as with the HDMI sources... if you plug it [HDMI source, ethernet cables to a valid LAN, etc], it should just work, but it doesn't. FW updates should always work, there should never be a "just try again a few times" process. The entire process stinks of undefined behavior. The fact that some people have good luck, some bad, some have to roll back, some do not... it's all indicative of code that simply doesn't behave properly. For example, in C: you can do this: int aaa[2]; aaa[3]=555; Now, depending on how the stack is setup by the OS, the memory represented by aaa[3] may contain 555, or you may have clobbered another process using that memory causing undefined behavior. I strongly believe this type of stuff is going on with the code, it explains so much. I wish you luck. X9 arrives this week. I've never had a NIC issue with my XMC-1 or XMC-2. Has worked every time.
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Post by Combobreaker on Sept 10, 2020 8:15:00 GMT -5
I use an Asus RT-AC68U wifi router. It's PPPOE capable. I had to look to see where this was in the control panel and I found it in the WAN Config. It's set to "Automatic IP". I see PPPOE on the dropdown list but it's not enabled. Hold on...two very different things. POE is Power over Ethernet....PPPOE is the way the router authenticates with the ISP. They have nothing to do with each other. Your WAN setting has nothing to do with the LAN side of the router. Yeah... bitzerjdb is correct about POE/PPPOE. I thought my power over ethernet might have something to do with it, but I moved my XMC-2 to another non-POE switch and it still locks up. I've been testing over the last few days again and my freezing issue is 100% related to having ethernet plugged in. ttocs... I was actually wrong in when I was telling you I could not reset my XMC-2 by holding down the power button on the front panel. This DOES work in reseting it after it locks up.
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Post by hsamwel on Feb 7, 2021 12:40:41 GMT -5
so day 3 and its (XMC-2) still alive...promising I must say this not using the LAN plugged in Still going strong without the LAN port disconnected ...This leads me to one thought... a busy network will crash the IP Stack in the XMC-2 and kill it completely making it unresponsive. @keithl what say you on this matter? The strange thing though is that some have no issues with network. I can have it busy, not busy, restart, start everything in whatever order I like and the network always work. If there was something wrong with the code I think I would have noticed SOME issues in a year and a halfs time of use. I would think.. This actually smells more like some hardware issues to me. I actually think it’s really bad of Emotiva to ignore this as it’s one of the core features of the processor. Used by Dirac, IP control and control apps. It simply has to work!
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Post by doc1963 on Feb 7, 2021 15:18:43 GMT -5
Still going strong without the LAN port disconnected ...This leads me to one thought... a busy network will crash the IP Stack in the XMC-2 and kill it completely making it unresponsive. @keithl what say you on this matter? The strange thing though is that some have no issues with network. I can have it busy, not busy, restart, start everything in whatever order I like and the network always work. If there was something wrong with the code I think I would have noticed SOME issues in a year and a halfs time of use. I would think.. This actually smells more like some hardware issues to me. I actually think it’s really bad of Emotiva to ignore this as it’s one of the core features of the processor. Used by Dirac, IP control and control apps. It simply has to work! I’m in the group that “doesn’t” seem to have networking issues. My RMC-1L is plugged into the same 16 port Ethernet switch that every wired device in my home is connected to and, therefore, there’s no “switch jumping”. Since I don’t use Dirac, my “black box” is still in its shipping container and has never been removed from it. I don’t know if either of these two things has anything to do with this issue, but I would think that if there’s a common fault within the kernel, we would all see the same problem.
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Post by hsamwel on Feb 7, 2021 17:16:50 GMT -5
The strange thing though is that some have no issues with network. I can have it busy, not busy, restart, start everything in whatever order I like and the network always work. If there was something wrong with the code I think I would have noticed SOME issues in a year and a halfs time of use. I would think.. This actually smells more like some hardware issues to me. I actually think it’s really bad of Emotiva to ignore this as it’s one of the core features of the processor. Used by Dirac, IP control and control apps. It simply has to work! I’m in the group that “doesn’t” seem to have networking issues. My RMC-1L is plugged into the same 16 port Ethernet switch that every wired device in my home is connected to and, therefore, there’s no “switch jumping”. Since I don’t use Dirac, my “black box” is still in its shipping container and has never been removed from it. I don’t know if either of these two things has anything to do with this issue, but I would think that if there’s a common fault within the kernel, we would all see the same problem. I have my RMC-1 connected to a 8p netgear ethernet switch. This is then connected to the main wireless router in the house. Two additional wireless routers in AP mode and a small 4p netgear switch are used as well. All connected by cables. All CAT6 or better cables. No crappy cables with questionable quality with their connectors. RMC and EDNIB are both connected to the same switch 24/7. RMC has worked fine before I got Dirac. No difference at all.
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Post by ttocs on May 29, 2021 18:13:01 GMT -5
After you do what oleops suggested, please note that you can still work on getting the Emotiva Dirac Network Interface Box (EDNIB) connected and verify that the processor can Enable Dirac. Dirac, the app, is not needed for this. Menu:: Setup:: Speakers:: Preset 1:: Dirac Live:: either Enable or Not Available will be shown. If Not Available, verify that you've done the following: Turn off the processor's rear power switch. Disconnect the EDNIB completely. Wait one minute. Verify that the network cable is secure in the processor. Turn on processor and wait until fully booted, then check that the IP shows up in Menu:: Information. Connect and power up the EDNIB on the same wired network segment as the processor. Wait at least two full minutes. Check Menu:: Setup:: Speakers:: Preset 1:: Dirac Live and see if you can Enable. During the last 1-1/2 years I've tested a gazillion different combos, this has worked 100% for me and others, no fails. Thanks, very helpful. I was able to enable and shutdown remote. Seems like I just have to wait for the license now. Excellent! I never think about that "Shutdown Remote" option. I did that once, and I think I had to use the Front Panel buttons to navigate and restore the Remote Control to operate again. You don't need to shutdown the Remote. I don't even remember why Emo put that in there.
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Post by wizardofoz on Jun 13, 2021 22:36:49 GMT -5
Hello to all the team. I want to adjust the equalizer manually, but it's not easy, have you planned to develop an html version of the menu to be able to set parameters directly from the Ip address of the RMC-1. Sadly given they can't even write their own remote iOS/Android apps I would not be placing bets on getting web based control any time soon. Still we can live in hope. Most AVR's in the last 10 years can do streaming over ethernet too even if its only airplay...but alas we don't get that either.
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Post by bitzerjdb on Jul 1, 2021 10:19:01 GMT -5
What you are missing is a layer of integration that if working makes life easier. If you want to use factory remotes that may be true, but a Universal or Harmony remote can make life just as easy. Don’t get me wrong, I think eARC/ARC/CEC should work for those who want it or need it, but I would push back on the opinion that anything is ‘missing’ without it. Like Thunderduck , all my devices tun through the RMC and I don’t find anything ‘missing’. The issue is that Universal Remotes are disappearing quickly. Harmony is no more... Universal Remote Control requires professional installations for their better products. I'm lucky, I have the URC programming software so I can do it myself. The trend for the future is not IR or RF, it's IP with stronger integration of devices. As said earlier, Google TV is baked into the Sony TV line, their voice control is pretty good, having that control downstream devices is a win. CEC was supposed to provide some of that integration but it can be a PITA. I currently leverage an old MSC-400 hub that contains all the Logic Macros. The remote simply sends a trigger and the hub executes the code, no worries about someone getting in front of the IR stream... Also, because it is executed at the HUB, I have built in variables to track state. If Home Theater is on, use the Volume from the RMC, if off, use the TV volume. Mute is the same way, if HT is on, mute RMC, if off, TV mute. Why do I do this, because CEC to the RMC is unreliable. CEC to the Sonos ARC works 100% of the time. Luckily there is HW available to replace my control setup, I picked up a spare MSC off ebay for pennies a few years ago and have it mothballed. There are many different ways to arrive at a workable solution, getting to that solution is easier when the components work properly. This isn't a knock on Emotiva, some of the compatibility issues are absolutely the fault of other device makers.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jul 1, 2021 11:00:02 GMT -5
The trend for the future is not IR or RF, it's IP with stronger integration of devices. As said earlier, Google TV is baked into the Sony TV line, their voice control is pretty good, having that control downstream devices is a win. CEC was supposed to provide some of that integration but it can be a PITA. There are many different ways to arrive at a workable solution, getting to that solution is easier when the components work properly. This isn't a knock on Emotiva, some of the compatibility issues are absolutely the fault of other device makers. I agree totally. About 10 years ago I decided to try switching from separates, to an AVR, while it was a failure for me (and eventually led me to Emotiva), the Onkyo receiver was the first device I’d owned that had IP control, I thought it was awesome, and made IP control a requirement of every device I bought. That is until I realized how few components had it (Emotiva not until the XMC-1 in 2015). I am concerned with Harmony leaving the market that there will be a need for other solutions (but admittedly they aren’t as refined as I’d like anyway - though they do IP control), and I’m not discounting that eARC/CEC won’t be part of it. We need it all to work, the more tools we have, the better the solution we can build.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Dec 12, 2021 14:47:16 GMT -5
I can also recommend this BAFX unit. One other thing to mention is that instead of using an ir flasher cable (like the ones shown in the link) my RMC-1L works perfectly using the same type of 'trigger cable' used to connect a processor to turn on an amp (an 1/8'' mono cable IIRC) from the extender into the rear-panel ir input. This trigger cable also works on the Oppo 10x series universal BR players. You can decide what will work best for your situation, but the option is available for you. Thank you, BAFX is too much for me)) i only need to extend RMC-1 remote control to another room. What type of simple IR do i need? maybe the problem is extender, i've bought has stereo mini-jack?
Agree with tngiloy , mono (3.5mm TS) most reliable for IR and Trigger, and (presumably) what’s on the other side of the jack. Another more expensive but more capable IR Extender is the Harmony Hub, its output can be cabled directly to the it RMC/XMC and essentially ‘extends’ IR, as well as IP/WiFi, ZWave, Zigbee, and of course adding Harmony Remote capability and Activities.
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Post by chriscolt on Jan 25, 2022 22:47:44 GMT -5
A Simple and quick way to control your home theater (Emotiva RMC-1, XPA Gen 2, BasX 5, Amazon FireCube Gen2, Xbox 1X, Verizon Fios 4K Cable Box, Oppo 203, Velodyne ULD-18 w/Servo Control 450W RMS Amp & LG OLED 77C1)
I am new to this forum - quick background (from a long-winded writer - LOL) - I have been addicted to Hi-Fi Audio since I was a kid watching my uncle build Heathkit equipment from Vacuum Tube Amps to a 28" Vacuum Tube Cathode Ray TV. After a 5-year stint in the Navy in the early to mid-sixties stationed in Southeast Asia during the height of the Vietnam war, he returned with what I considered at the time - the most beautiful high-end system I would ever see - The Fisher 500TX AM/FM Stereo Receiver, TEAC Reel to Reel Tape Deck, Dual Turntable & a pair of AR3A speakers - sounded as beautiful as it looked. From there, I was hooked, this addiction also guided my career - first working as a contractor at the biggest NYC recording Studios - Hit Factory, Record Plant, Electric Lady - repairing everything from headphones & mic cables to work on Tape decks & mixing consoles. From there I moved into the new field of "Telecommunications" brought about by the AT&T/Bell Systems/Western Electric (AKA "The Phone Company") monopoly divestiture, which opened up an entirely new "Private Telephone System" industry. I used skills honed in my pro/consumer audio work experience not knowing that it was the Bell Labs engineers that helped create pro & consumer audio by inventing the vacuum tube (and later the transistor) amplifiers used in analog telephone local and long distance amplification that were adapted for use by both live sound and recorded sound amplification industries. After a long career - last 30 years running Global Project Management Department for Information Tech department of one of the largest Global Financial Institutions I went back to my roots and started a small company restoring/repairing vintage (and current) vacuum tube amps from guitar to Hi-Fi and also customizations and custom builds of the same. I especially enjoy reviving a 40-80 year old piece of audio equipment that otherwise would have been thrown on the trash heap, back to better than original condition. I also perform preventative maintenance on modern era equipment 15 - 30 years old e.g. I have a set of original Def Tech towers with built in subs - the capacitors in those subs are past their useful life - and may at any time fail - especially if they are used often, line power is unreliable, played hard - if these filter caps short they can take the output power devices with them - many of these boards are no longer stocked / made by Def Tech and are expensive to repair if even possible. Changing out under $20 worth of capacitors that are BETTER than the originals (rated for higher voltages and temperatures with lower ESRs & longer life) will allow these circa mid-nineties speakers to last another 30+ years.). So, whether it's a solid-state HQ amp built in 60's-90's, a vacuum tube amp or preamp, I can repair, restore, preserve it so it will operate for another 20-30 years. Most recently I restored a 1963 Fender Type 1 Oil Can (Tel-Ray Adineko Device) to full operating all original with circuit mods for today's line voltages (from 110VAC to 125VAC) customer paid $25, sold $1100 and an Otari MX5050BII2 - 2T Record, 2T/4T Playback, 3 3/4, 7 1/2, 15 IPS Speed Reel to Reel tape deck - that required mechanical (spring/brake tension, frozen moving parts due to hardened lubricant), Electrical (bad electrolytics, cracked main circuit board, burnt VU Lamps, filthy / magnetized heads) and cosmetic (fiberboard cracked side panels replaced with 3/4" lacquer finished side panels, incorrect/missing hardware replaced, head cover replaced, control knob white & yellow inserts replaced, touch up paint where needed) - paid $400, worth $3500-$4500 now.
I hope that was brief - so my "smart home theater room" - I replace main components of my home theater about every 10-15 years or as major technological updates dictate. So my so called flagship Onkyo DS-TX939 was obsolete a year or so after I bought it when HDMI became the new standard so I used my Oppo 203 as the ARC/HDMI/Surround Sound decoder along with my old LG OLED 65E6 - Tons of wires for component video, coax and fiber audio for years a real rats nest behind my old racks. I purchased the RMC-1/XPA Gen2 x 7, BasX 5 & Stealth SP-1 (for additional audio and phono preamp) January 2021. Took me about 5 months to retro my Living room into a Smart Home Theater Room - 8x6" Lumary Smart lo-profile Ceiling lights (full color), Reiga 65" Smart Ceiling Fan & 4 Treatlife color Smart bulbs for the wall sconce fixtures & 2 x Ikea 100% light blocking Gray Smart Window Shades. Feeding the Emotiva - Fios 4K cable box, Amazon FireCube Gen2, Xbox One X, Oppo UDP 203 - TV- New 77" LG C1, walls - left/right painted Flat Titanium Gray, Front/Rear - Flat Navy Blue, Ceiling left white for now. There is also a new Cyberpower PC with Nvidia 2080Ti DP to HDMI cable to RMC and a bunch of vintage analog Empire 598 TT, Otari R2R Tape, Onkyo 3head Cassette, and DBX Sound Expander/Pioneer Graphic EQ & Pioneer DVL700 LD player. Speakers - 7.6.4 (7 x Def Tech - 5 towers & Center channel with integrated powered subs - 2 main subs from BP2000TL part of 3 sub bass control, CTR 3000 Center & BP2002TL subs connected to main speaker outputs set as "LARGE", Rears set as large 2 x Def Tech BPX wall mount. 4 x Yamaha 8" Ceiling Speakers connected to BasX 5 channel amp, 4 x outdoor speakers connected to Zone 2 & Kenwood KM991 (150W/Channel) power amp, Main Sub to RMC-1 is Velodyne ULD-18 = 18" (new surround) servo controlled down-firing subwoofer connected to Velodyne matched Servo amp conservatively rated at 450 Watts RMS CONTINUOUS - this is a huge heavy sub set behind new home theater (4) Valencia Tuscany 3 way powered (head, lumbar, recliner) LED lit chocolate brown leather chairs set 2.5 feet from rear wall in between front and rear Yamaha Height channel ceiling speakers, DT BP 2002TL L&R Surrounds at either side of seating pointing towards listeners and 2 x DT BPX 3 inches above ear level on rear walls about 1 foot inside line of front/sides/height channels since the BPX are Bi-polar 2 sets of 2 woofers/midranges & tweeter @ mirror image pairs/speaker (total of 4 woofers/mids & 2 tweeters per rear speaker) @ 45 degree angle both sides firing @ seating. All other Def Tech main drivers at ear level. Finally, I installed the smart, fully Immersive TV Backlighting system from Govee called the Immersion TV Backlight (for 75" to 90" TVs) - which by using the included 1080p camera pointed at TV screen from above or below TV screen, projects colors presented on screen from whatever source u r watching onto the walls aboce, below and to each side of the screen accurately using strips of RGBIC extremely bright outdoor coated LED light strips 1/2"-1" from top, bottom, right & Left backside of screen - thereby extending colors on the screen to the walls surrounding the screen from behind - to me it is stunning and the set I had to purchase after upgrading from a 65" to 77" seems to work better and calibrate easier than the kit I purchased last year for the smaller TV (50"to 65" TV size). Differences are a different camera to capture larger screen size and of course, longer RGBIC LED strips to cover each edge of the larger backscreen. I also mounted camera above the screen this time when it was below the screen on the 65" LG - ceiling lights near TV must be off especially with up facing camera, while calibrating and using Immersion System - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
After some experimentation - all smart lights, Immersion TV Backlight System, fan, shades and A/V equipment (LG TV, Cable Box, Xbox & FireCube) assigned to wi-fi either through Smart Home App or in the case of AV - directly to Alexa (FireCube has built in 2 Way Alexa speaker/mic- always on). RMC-1 is Trigger controlling XPA, BasX & Oppo, FireCube, Xbox, Oppo, LG TV & Fios Cable Box - CEC control to RMC-1 & to LG TV.
Keeping this in mind, by turning on any of the inputs that are CEC controlled via the HDMI cable (cable box, FireCube, Oppo, TV, Xbox) it turns on the Emotiva RMC-1 which uses trigger control to turn on the 2 main amps. Both the Velodyne & Definitive Tech Subwoofers are left on always - they have signal sensing inputs and "sleep" when there is no signal from the preamp output or speaker input in the case of the 3 DT subs not connected to the RMC-1 (side surrounds BP2002Tl & Center Channel CLR 3000). - So, programming Alexa using the Alexa Phone app (synchronized to the Verizon, SmartHome & Ikea Phone apps) to create a "Routine" I can with one command - e.g. Alexa, Turn on Home Theater - with that - I can set ceiling & wall sconce lights at their dimmest setting (1% brightness), turn off the 2 ceiling and 2 wall lights closest to TV screen (not to interfere with Govee Immersion camera/LED lighting system) - set ceiling/wall lights to "GOLD" (I found this color to provide enough room light to find/use remotes and see your food/drink & not interfere with TV picture viewing) Turn fan on or off, set winter or summer rotation (up or down) and set speed, turn off ceiling fan light, close Ikea Shades, turn on Govee Immersion TV backlight system and activate TV Video mode, set brightness & Saturation, Turn on TV, FireCube - which turns on RMC-1 via CEC, which turns on amps via RMC-1 Trigger controls, and as soon as sound is produced, all subwoofer amps turn on & turns on Oppo. I decided to default input to RMC-1 to be FireCube - I could further refine command Alexa Turn on Firecube home theater or "Cable Home Theater or Xbox Home Theater or Blu-Ray Home Theater - to turn on which input I want to use in the RMC-1 and in that case I would not turn on the other input boxes - otherwise the RMC-1 would receive CEC commands from all of them and I would have to select Input I want to watch manually - Volume can be controlled via LG remote (once you set up ARC correctly - HASSLE - you must POWER DOWM RMC-1 using rear SWITCH when connecting LG and go thru LG Receiver Set up Menu, I can also use Amazon Firecube remote to set volume on RMC-1 (set up CEC control in Firecube) and same goes for Cable Remote control - can also control RMC-1 (Cable setup menu.
No need for any Smart outlet power controls, no need for expensive Harmony equipment - Turning system off is just as easy - I wrote Routine in Alexa that by Saying Alexa Good Night, She turns off all lights, Govee TV Backlights, Ceiling Fan, Closes Shades (If still open) and turns off TV, cable, Firecube which via CEC turns off RMC-1, which by trigger turns off Oppo, and all amps, once Subs realize no input signal - they too shut off. If I was playing Xbox - just by shutting off Xbox - Emotiva shuts off (amps etc... via triggers, etc..)
If you didn't have all the lights etc.. non-AV equipment your Alexa Routine would be even easier once you get your cable box (assuming its Alexa ready) and/or your Firecube/FireStick/AppleTV or Oppo or other Blu-ray = anything that will work with Alexa can be controlled and it can then shut RMC-1 off either by CEC / HDMI signals or if it has 12Volt Trigger - then by that (Oppo has both trigger and CEC) - then your command would be for Alexa to just shut one or two things off = eg TV and input device - this will turn off RMC-1 using common CEC or trigger control. then amps via 12V trigger or input signal sensing.
Let me know if you have questions - but please take the time to understand how your smart control system works - I know a lot about Alexa but not about Google or Siri or others but I assume they R all similar. The easiest way to learn basic "skills & routines" is to buy a few smart devices - e.g. light bulbs I recommend TreatLife Bulbs - standard socket - millions of colors and 3 shades of white and are as bright as a 85 watt bulb when used as soft or cool white. With a few lights you can create groups, set scenes (color patterns), time of day control or sunrise/sunset control and set up command routines or even IFTTT if you want to get fancy (If this then that) e.g. If temp is 50 degrees then turn on outside light to red @ 50% brightness or if >60 degrees turn light inside to green at 100% intensity. Get the basics down first there is a lot out there showing how to do this - especially on you tube
Chris
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Post by AudioHTIT on Feb 21, 2022 10:39:17 GMT -5
Just amps, not processors. Thanks for the quick answer.
Maybe I can tempt you to answer any of my other questions from the previous post before the one you have answered to?
We each make a decision at a point in time, and with a different set of variables, mine was approximately two and a half years ago. I start most purchasing decisions by evaluating functionality (will the device do what I need it to do). This seems basic, but it’s at the heart of whether I’d make the decision again. For instance, I use all four triggers (though I could get by with three), when I’ve looked at other (even more expensive) processors, they might only have one trigger, and I have no idea what their programming options are. This is just a simple example, and if you have a ‘simple’ system, may be of no concern to you. Channel configuration would be a basic requirement (I’m 7.2.4 headed to 9.2.4). Other features, like USB capabilities, may fit in to functionality as well, but may then crossover from ‘needs’ to ‘desires’, say stereo versus multichannel, or DSD options. Certainly you need enough inputs of the correct type for your associated gear. So functionality is generally straightforward, you need it to do XYZ, does it? Then you have a grey area of desires or preferences (that for some may fit above): number and type of inputs (including balanced capabilities), DAC chip / capabilities, IR In/Out, expandability, network / IP control, firmware update procedure, OSD, setup method, adherence to standards (HDMI, pin outs), Remote compatibility, Auto Room Correction (Dirac, etc), size, tuner? Finally there are mostly personal preferences: aesthetics / finish (size may fit here too), build quality (gold thingies?), display, warranty, reputation / status, and of course cost / budget (shipping, discounts). Given that, I’ll only comment on “would I do it again?”, which really has two requirements: Do I need or want what the device offers? Are there at least two devices that meet the criteria set out above? In my case I wanted to add Atmos / DSU / DTS:X, and retain the features and quality of my XMC-1 (resetting the warranty, discounts, aesthetics played in too). So yes to question one. I honestly don’t know if there were viable alternatives for me two and a half years ago, but it didn’t seem that most we’re ready. It also seemed that about one year in, the larger RMC complaints were being addressed (but obviously some continue). So yes, I would make the same decision at that point in time, and I’ve not regretted my decision (though I’m not complaint free). You need to evaluate the above in your situation at this point in time, and evaluate the alternatives now available. I look now and then at other processors, and if I see one that fits my needs / wants, I might make a change. While I don’t like spending more than I need to, I’m fortunate to be able to choose more costly options, but I’d need to know they’ll give me a better experience, my current experience is pretty good.
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