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Post by mikec1231 on Jun 18, 2024 12:30:50 GMT -5
That question is a lot more complicated than it seems. (Although odds are you can do what you want.) For example... - whether you ONLY want to listen to different sets of stereo speakers or whether you have surround sound in your main room - whether you want to be able to listen to the speakers in multiple locations at the same time - and, if so, whether the speakers are similar or not - and, depending on other answers, whether your speakers are 4 Ohm, or 8 Ohm, or a mix - and whether you "only want background music" or want high quality music - sometimes at relatively high listening levels. There are a LOT of different ways in which things can be connected depending on EXACTLY what you need and want to do. Also note that your Adcom speaker switch has some sort of switchable "low impedance protection"... This COULD offer you even more options... but MIGHT compromise sound quality if you use it. (But THAT would depend on how you hook things up and how good your various speakers are.) I have a new MR1L that is currently connected to my Sony Bravia TV, AppleTV, and surround speakers. My house is pre wired in 4 rooms with stereo speakers, including outdoors. I would like to be able to listen to music outside by the pool from Spotify via my TV apps. I also have an Adcom gfs-6 speaker selector available that is currently not connected. Can someone tell me if I can connect any of these additional speakers to my Emotiva and how? Thanks Mike KeithL, I am between a rock right now as my wife is throwing this anniversary party Saturday and wants music in the family room and pool area. (Same music is fine). It is all Spotify origin from the tv. The family room and MR 1 L are hooked to a 7.1 surround. All in room speakers are 8 Ohm. Remember that short term this is just listening music for a party. any advice on getting the 2 speakers outside to play? thanks Mike |
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs 
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 5,026
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Post by cawgijoe on Jun 18, 2024 13:12:11 GMT -5
What tech we can afford is always relative. I remember when gasoline was 28 CENTS a gallon... And amid-priced family car cost $3500... But a 25" color TV was a major investment. (And I bought one of the first home computers... it cost over $2000... and came with 16k of RAM.) Now gas is ten times that much... And cars are ten times that much... But you can get an 80" TV on sale for less than that 25" TV used to cost... Let’s be honest these products are not at all aimed for the average blue collar worker. I remember those times also...my Dad had a 1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme that he paid $3,200 for...in 1986 I bought a Sony 27" Trinitron XBR for $950, and that did not include the stand. |
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KeithL
Administrator 
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Post by KeithL on Jun 18, 2024 13:58:55 GMT -5
OK... any channel or channels on the MR1L will be perfectly happy running either a 4 Ohm load of an 8 Ohm load. Since Spotify only runs stereo anyway... I would just use the front two channels... at least for now. (I'm ignoring the other surround sound speakers in the main zone... for "party mode" you probably just want to pick STEREO or ALL STEREO.) So, assuming you are starting out with one pair of 8 Ohm speakers connected to the front two channels (I'm going to call these your MAIN speakers). You can connect an ADDITIONAL pair of 8 Ohm speakers to the front two channels. (Just connect them in parallel with the main pair... these should be 8 Ohm speakers and not 4 Ohm speakers.) If you want to connect TWO ADDITIONAL PAIRS of speakers to the front two channels you can do that too. (However, if you do that, then the additional pairs must be wired a certain way... SEE PICTURE BELOW.) If you are using two additional pairs of speakers then each pair can be 4 Ohm or 8 Ohm speakers (or even one pair of each). (2 x 4 Ohm speakers in series = 8 Ohms; 2 x 8 Ohm speakers in series = 16 Ohms; both can safely be paralleled with your 8 Ohm main speakers.) (The extra speakers should be connected as shown... although, if the pairs are in separate rooms, you probably wouldn't notice if they were switched + to -.)  Note that, assuming all your speakers are the same efficiency, those extra speakers will play slightly less loud than the main pair. Those two extra pairs should sound normal if they are the same as each other. If they are different then they MAY affect each other and may sound slightly odd... but that may or may not be noticeable. Another option would be to connect that Adcom speaker selector to the Front Left and Front Right outputs on the receiver... Then connect all of the pairs of front speakers to that. However the results there might be less predictable... and, if you want to run all the speakers, you should turn that "low impedance protection circuit" ON. (That circuit MIGHT negatively affect the sound quality on the main pair of speakers... ) That question is a lot more complicated than it seems. (Although odds are you can do what you want.) For example... - whether you ONLY want to listen to different sets of stereo speakers or whether you have surround sound in your main room - whether you want to be able to listen to the speakers in multiple locations at the same time - and, if so, whether the speakers are similar or not - and, depending on other answers, whether your speakers are 4 Ohm, or 8 Ohm, or a mix - and whether you "only want background music" or want high quality music - sometimes at relatively high listening levels. There are a LOT of different ways in which things can be connected depending on EXACTLY what you need and want to do. Also note that your Adcom speaker switch has some sort of switchable "low impedance protection"... This COULD offer you even more options... but MIGHT compromise sound quality if you use it. (But THAT would depend on how you hook things up and how good your various speakers are.) KeithL, I am between a rock right now as my wife is throwing this anniversary party Saturday and wants music in the family room and pool area. (Same music is fine). It is all Spotify origin from the tv. The family room and MR 1 L are hooked to a 7.1 surround. All in room speakers are 8 Ohm. Remember that short term this is just listening music for a party. any advice on getting the 2 speakers outside to play? thanks Mike |
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Post by audiosyndrome on Jun 19, 2024 17:47:16 GMT -5
Can someone explain the attraction of the HT receiver? And at the stratospheric price of the new Denon 'flagship'? Given that this beast will be obsoleted in a year and technologically obsolete in 18 months? Good amps, which are better than ANY HT product will last thru several upgrade cycles lowering cost. A good HT level Pre-Pro MUST be less coin than the Denon. I know its years, but the last time I just looked at the HT receiver isle (modest end, for sure) they all ran HOT....Some alarmngly so. And to Snoman? the tech company I worked for kind of did a related thing. Suing other tech companies over PATENTs and INTELLECTUAL property is apparently a regular part of doing businsss. The sale of much intellectual property and manufacturing rights TO Vishay started another round of lawyering up. I have no idea how all that nuttiness turned out. What MOST players in manufacturing conform to are ISO standards and the periodic AUDIT by various organizations. I was thru half a dozen of them over the years.....As pleasant as a Colonoscopy..... The attraction of the HTR, AVR, or singular black box controlling everything is honestly more of a failure of consumer knowledge than anything else. No different than moths being attracted to light/flame, consumers chasing these products simply have absolutely no comprehension of audio, engineering or physics. This is of course, an assumption of all things being equal which we know, are not. Most consumers couldn't begin to grasp the difference between OFC and CCA or language related to harmonics and distortion, much less fathom entry level home theater equations like subwoofer size to room size. On top of lack of knowledge, add to the fact of wives chasing their perfect esthetic living room or even something as simple as not knowing how to work multiple remotes, we are left with the perfect scenario for a consumer to simply "lay down" at the first sales pitch. Who wants all those wires and complications, set up procedures that read like college text books well over 100 pages in length, and why on earth would I spend $30 per cable for some scam called 'XLR'? Manufactures pray on consumers being dumb, advertising campaigns succeed by disorienting those ignorant enough to fall for it. I saw this first hand within Circuit City back in the day. We sold more Home Theater In-a-box units at our stores than separates 7 days a week. The masses do not care about audio quality and neither did company profits. The consumer shift from audio quality to cheap within the audio industry started about 20 years ago. Today, most will just about sacrifice their first born to achieve simplicity and convenience. My own wife wouldn't let me pair a $5,000 5.1 system to our bedroom TV because it meant three remotes. She eventually caved because I threatened to put it in the Kitchen, but I still had to consolidate remotes. This shift in esthetics over quality went into a free fall with the advent of MP3 honestly. Allowing consumers to have 80% of the real product (FLAC/LL/CD/Album/etc), while tricking them that it's the real deal turned into a trillion dollar business that no one could have imagined. One of the greatest laughs I still have today is that consumers actually believe the sticker in their cars representing some speaker brand is actually real and not in fact, just a piece of licensing the automaker paid while shoving some random $0.25 speaker product in the door manufactured by the cheapest bidder out of china. You think that's a McIntosh product in your 2023 Jeep eh? Pssst....licensing.
From a technology perspective, the flagship Denon was a joke even before it hit the shelves. The technology it represents is akin to buying a state of the art gaming computer, except the computer is 10 years old and someone simply installed new software in it and trippled the original MSRP. The A1H represents nothing new, except profits, but hey....you know, go Denon! Most consumers aren't even aware of the fact there is no real R&D over there and that Marantz is the same company, sorta, but not, but is---ish...something. Marantz gets the better products and represents "the Denon pre-pro line", except...they have their own AVRs also. Consolidation of manufactures gets confusing quickly, like did DEIH destroy both company integrities or was it their current owners, S.U.?
Consumers simply do not care and manufactures are happy to rake in the profits.
Hey Snoman are you Crazy Eddie in disguise? 😜 Suggest your long unnecessary diatribe should have been prefaced “IMO”. Russ |
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Post by ted999 on Jun 30, 2024 8:26:50 GMT -5
I am occasionally having the bug where the mains are coming through the sides. Seems to happen when I am doing a series of fast forwards during a streaming program. I fix it by exiting the streaming platform (usually Amazon Fire) and then restarting.
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tc2007
Seeker Of Truth
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Post by tc2007 on Aug 5, 2024 9:27:12 GMT -5
Can anyone suggest what mode the MR1 should be on when watching something with Atmos soundtrack? Should it be "Dolby Upmix" OR "Direct"?
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Post by marcl on Aug 5, 2024 9:38:33 GMT -5
Can anyone suggest what mode the MR1 should be on when watching something with Atmos soundtrack? Should it be "Dolby Upmix" OR "Direct"? Auto should work. It should select Atmos if there's Atmos content automatically |
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tc2007
Seeker Of Truth
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Post by tc2007 on Aug 5, 2024 13:31:56 GMT -5
Can anyone suggest what mode the MR1 should be on when watching something with Atmos soundtrack? Should it be "Dolby Upmix" OR "Direct"? Auto should work. It should select Atmos if there's Atmos content automatically I don't think I saw an "Auto" mode at all. The only ones I remember are * Dolby Upmix * Stereo * Multi-Ch Stereo * DTS-NeuralX * Pure * Direct |
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jalso
Seeker Of Truth
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Post by jalso on Oct 4, 2024 8:16:26 GMT -5
Hi All,
My friend is struggling with a BasX MR1 and I need your help.
He has the following configuration:
Zidoo Z3000 Pro ==> BasX MR1 ==> Sony XW5000 projector.
He used to listen to the music from Zidoo, while his projector was running, and everything went smoothly. Then when he tried to switch the projector off to save the working hours of the device, - and wanted to use the option to browse his music through the Zidoo app - the music stopped on the Zidoo (although the counter was still going, so the music itself was playing, but there was no sound) and the MR1 started to show "No Signal" on the display. As soon as the projector was switched back on, the signal came back on the MR1 and the sound came back aswell. We have tried to use the HDMI OUT 2 on the MR1 and connected onto the non eARC or ARC port of the projector, but the result was the same.
Has anybody else ever experienced anything similar?
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jalso
Seeker Of Truth
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Post by jalso on Oct 6, 2024 5:15:50 GMT -5
Hi All, My friend is struggling with a BasX MR1 and I need your help. He has the following configuration: Zidoo Z3000 Pro ==> BasX MR1 ==> Sony XW5000 projector. He used to listen to the music from Zidoo, while his projector was running, and everything went smoothly. Then when he tried to switch the projector off to save the working hours of the device, - and wanted to use the option to browse his music through the Zidoo app - the music stopped on the Zidoo (although the counter was still going, so the music itself was playing, but there was no sound) and the MR1 started to show "No Signal" on the display. As soon as the projector was switched back on, the signal came back on the MR1 and the sound came back aswell. We have tried to use the HDMI OUT 2 on the MR1 and connected onto the non eARC or ARC port of the projector, but the result was the same. Has anybody else ever experienced anything similar? UPDATE : If the projector is being physically disconnected from the AVR, the EMO plays the music without any problem. I have the same type of projector, but I am having a Marantz CInema 40 and a Zidoo, and it doesn't behave like this. |
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jayb3
Seeker Of Truth
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Post by jayb3 on Oct 10, 2024 15:12:46 GMT -5
Apple TV CEC Volume Control Not Working!
Wanted to surface this issue to see if others have the same problem. When I first setup my MR1 I configured the CEC volume control on my Apple TV remote. It worked for a very short time. Then for some reason it would no longer respond to volume control. I have done extensive research, tried configurations, reset the MR1, upgraded firmware, swapped multiple Apple TVs, swapped multiple HDMI cables - you name it, I have done it. It still will not work. Sidenote: the power off/on will work through CEC.
I have contacted support and they have verified that this is a known issue but no idea when or if a firmware fix is coming. Although I love the MR1 receiver, I hate using its remote to change volume for a multitude of reasons but namely convenience of using one remote - my Apple TV remote. Seems like this should just be a simple software fix. I can go to Best Buy and pick up a $99 soundbar and the CEC volume will likely work like a champ. This shouldn't be a problem for a $2k receiver with update-able firmware.
Hoping this gets fixed!
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,224
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Post by KeithL on Oct 10, 2024 16:44:52 GMT -5
At the moment the HDMI-CEC on the MR1 will work when ARC/eARC is the selected input on the MR1, and allow any device connected directly to the TV to control the MR1. However HDMI-CEC control probably won't work for any device connected directly to an HDMI input on the MR1. This bug cropped up in a recent firmware release... So it still works fine on units with OLDER firmware... And we expect to have it working again in the NEXT firmware release... (But, if you have a unit with older firmware on it, and use this feature, you might want to hold off upgrading your firmware until the next version.) Apple TV CEC Volume Control Not Working! Wanted to surface this issue to see if others have the same problem. When I first setup my MR1 I configured the CEC volume control on my Apple TV remote. It worked for a very short time. Then for some reason it would no longer respond to volume control. I have done extensive research, tried configurations, reset the MR1, upgraded firmware, swapped multiple Apple TVs, swapped multiple HDMI cables - you name it, I have done it. It still will not work. Sidenote: the power off/on will work through CEC. I have contacted support and they have verified that this is a known issue but no idea when or if a firmware fix is coming. Although I love the MR1 receiver, I hate using its remote to change volume for a multitude of reasons but namely convenience of using one remote - my Apple TV remote. Seems like this should just be a simple software fix. I can go to Best Buy and pick up a $99 soundbar and the CEC volume will likely work like a champ. This shouldn't be a problem for a $2k receiver with update-able firmware. Hoping this gets fixed! |
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,224
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Post by KeithL on Oct 10, 2024 16:47:38 GMT -5
So... only about TWICE the price of ours (which probably sound better)... What a deal!?  |
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Post by mgbpuff on Oct 10, 2024 17:38:24 GMT -5
So... only about TWICE the price of ours (which probably sound better)... What a deal!? Dang, Keith - that comment was two years ago, and I was being sarcastic about the pricing along with pointing out to someone who posted Denon doesn't do prepros. |
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jayb3
Seeker Of Truth
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Post by jayb3 on Oct 11, 2024 10:29:51 GMT -5
Thanks for this. My Apple TV is connected directly to the MR1. I just have a dumb old projector for HDMI out - no ARC/eARC. Not sure if this setup issue would still apply to the old firmware, but it did not work under the original firmware that came with the MR1 - except for a few times which was odd. This is why I upgraded firmware after a few months of having the MR1 with the hopes that it would be a fix. I sure hope the next firmware update is coming soon as this has been an issue for 10 months now. At the moment the HDMI-CEC on the MR1 will work when ARC/eARC is the selected input on the MR1, and allow any device connected directly to the TV to control the MR1. However HDMI-CEC control probably won't work for any device connected directly to an HDMI input on the MR1. This bug cropped up in a recent firmware release... So it still works fine on units with OLDER firmware... And we expect to have it working again in the NEXT firmware release... (But, if you have a unit with older firmware on it, and use this feature, you might want to hold off upgrading your firmware until the next version.) Apple TV CEC Volume Control Not Working! Wanted to surface this issue to see if others have the same problem. When I first setup my MR1 I configured the CEC volume control on my Apple TV remote. It worked for a very short time. Then for some reason it would no longer respond to volume control. I have done extensive research, tried configurations, reset the MR1, upgraded firmware, swapped multiple Apple TVs, swapped multiple HDMI cables - you name it, I have done it. It still will not work. Sidenote: the power off/on will work through CEC. I have contacted support and they have verified that this is a known issue but no idea when or if a firmware fix is coming. Although I love the MR1 receiver, I hate using its remote to change volume for a multitude of reasons but namely convenience of using one remote - my Apple TV remote. Seems like this should just be a simple software fix. I can go to Best Buy and pick up a $99 soundbar and the CEC volume will likely work like a champ. This shouldn't be a problem for a $2k receiver with update-able firmware. Hoping this gets fixed! |
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