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Post by shayking on Aug 2, 2024 17:32:10 GMT -5
Does anyone know which circuit/component i would need to replace to Fix the Cold Start Audio Recharge? It doesn't seem to be the power supply C18/C19 caps. I'm thinking it is something on the processing board. (I have upgraded 5+ PSU's for this UMC200 model over the last 10+yrs)
Basically when the Processor is cold then Turned on, the HDMI Audio will not output and the HDMI Video freaks out/flickering. To alleviate this I put it on the FM Tuner with static channel noise (99.0 nothing) so that the unheard static from the FM station Recharges whatever and within 5mins (the higher the unheard db's the faster it recoups/recharges) the HDMI Audio circuit recoups itself and all is fine. Not perfectly fine as the Audio has hiccups every few mins.
Hoping an EMO Engineer/Emo Gurus may chime in with some support/ suggestion ...
TY
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Post by inoyouryder on Aug 18, 2024 16:38:08 GMT -5
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,261
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Post by KeithL on Aug 19, 2024 9:58:11 GMT -5
There is nothing in the UMC-200 that "needs to recharge before it starts working"... But there are a whole bunch of things that "need to reach their normal operating voltage or state"... And, while many of these normally do so in a fraction of a second, they may do so really slowly "when they get old and tired... or a bit leaky..." Things that "work better after they warm up" fall into this category... but there are other sorts as well.
Unfortunately, outside of the power supply, there are no specific parts in the UMC-200 that are especially likely to be the cause. WE ALWAYS RECOMMEND REPLACING THOSE POWER SUPPLY CAPACITORS FOR SEVERAL REASONS.
* When the power supply gets weak, it CAN lead to a variety of "weird" problems... other than the obvious ones. * The power supply does turn out to be the problem more than 2/3 of the time. * It's relatively easy and cheap to replace those three power supply caps. * Since the power supply in the UMC-200 does tend to fail in older units it serves as preventative maintenance. (Although we wouldn't specifically suggest doing it on a fully functioning unit.... it's not a total waste even if it doesn't fix the problem.)
NOTES:
1. Remember that several parts, like the HDMI switches, and the decoder chips, really are not available any mode... They also have a lot of small legs really close together... (So, if they're the problem, it's unlikely that you could either find replacements parts, or install them successfully.)
2. There are several things, like the muting circuits, which only affect the audio, which COULD be found and tweaked... However, IN ORDER TO TRY TO DO THIS YOU HAVE TO ACTUALLY TRACE SIGNALS INSIDE THE UNIT... This should be pretty simple and obvious to an experienced tech... especially "one who has an oscilloscope and knows how to use it". There are too many possibilities for it to make sense to "try to shotgun the problem by just replacing parts"... And, no, there are no "obvious and common ones" that I can suggest you try first...
3. Someone in that older case asked about "batteries" and "flash memory"... Older devices often used "battery backed-up memory" or some sort of other medium-term power source (like a bulk capacitor)... Modern "flash memory" does NOT use a battery or other power source to maintain its data storage... (this is what "USB sticks" are). The information is "programmed into the chip" while the power is on, or during a shutdown sequence, and the chip then remembers it without power. This can fail to happen if the information is not programmed into the chip correctly to begin with... Or it can fail if the chip just plain "gets old and dies" or "gets old and weak"... (The chip may also "forget" if it sits for a VERY long time without being used... in which case it may work again if you re-enter your settings.)
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