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Post by taxman2 on Jun 9, 2013 1:08:57 GMT -5
Sorry guys, 500 sq. ft. I was trying to convert to US measurements.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2013 1:56:51 GMT -5
Hey, even a 500 sq. ft. living room is pretty darn large! Most folks would kill to have a 20' x 25' living room...
-RW-
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2013 2:03:03 GMT -5
Milsap, I think your assessment is correct - I bet the XPA-1Ls would be a great match for the CL-4s. That is gonna be one *killer* setup when you get it all in-place! And the incredibly wide sweet-spot is something I really like about my Gallos - to be able to do that and *still* have pin-point imaging makes them an audio engineering tour-de-force. Good on ya, son!
-RW-
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focal
Minor Hero
Posts: 93
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Post by focal on Jun 9, 2013 8:45:34 GMT -5
curious, my next upgrade should be a better DAC, but I keep thinking that my amp is a bigger weak link (XPA-3). The DACs I am considering costs more than a pair of 1L's too. The XPA-1L is definitely an intriguing upgrade.
Curious if anyone has matched it with a tube preamplifier?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2013 8:57:40 GMT -5
Focal, could you give use an inventory of your present system so that we might offer you some "sound" suggestions?
-RW-
PS: And times when you might be out of the house for a few hours would be most helpful...<g>
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focal
Minor Hero
Posts: 93
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Post by focal on Jun 9, 2013 9:14:32 GMT -5
not to mention the 1L is 5" shorter in depth and will fit my existing rack.....
rlw: beware of vicious guard at my house...5 year old
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Post by milsap195 on Jul 1, 2013 20:41:11 GMT -5
What happened to this thread? Any new owners out there?
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Jul 1, 2013 21:41:47 GMT -5
Just got mine today. I was only able to listen for a few minutes, but all I can say is wow!!!
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Post by ocezam on Jul 1, 2013 22:06:51 GMT -5
Just got mine today. I was only able to listen for a few minutes, but all I can say is wow!!! How much of a difference between class A and AB are you hearing chuck? .. |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Jul 1, 2013 22:46:01 GMT -5
Just got mine today. I was only able to listen for a few minutes, but all I can say is wow!!! How much of a difference between class A and AB are you hearing chuck? .. Haven't even tried class a/b and I only played a little HD Fleetwood Mac and Eric Johnson, both 24 bit 192kHz. I'm using my old Cornwalls for now as I have a driver issue with my new DIYs. Waiting for replacement. With the XDA-2 and XSP-1 I have driven my old Bryson 2BLP, the UPA-500 and now the XPA-1Ls. I know the sound of the Cornwalls very well after having them for 40 years. The sense of image and power with the XPA-1Ls was unlike anything I've heard with these old Klipsch. Reminds me a lot of what I remember when I had the Mac MC275 for a short while. I may just forget about tubes! I've got to send back my XDA-2 for a fix, so it will be a couple of weeks before I get everything back on-line. Stand-by and I'll report back. |
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Post by mam on Jul 2, 2013 13:30:27 GMT -5
can i safely plug 2 XPA-1L amplifiers into the same electric outlet or should i use one outlet with each amps , with surge protector ... or surge protector is not even needed ... thanks
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Post by taxman2 on Jul 2, 2013 15:09:29 GMT -5
OK! I got those babies 3 weeks ago and I am still exploring them. My first impression - well, I have not heard anything like that in my life. Well I prefer listening in 2 ch stereo plus 2 subs. Incredible - can't stop listening! I found my speakers not good enough for these babies. Probably will go looking for new speakers. I don't like listening loud - so probably will go for bookshelf speakers whereas one could hear every detail without pumping up the volume. My speakers are ok - but need to be pushed up a bit in order to get the best of them and this is loud for me. In class A this is the best amp I have ever heard. Sorry, can't say more due to lack of experience but last year I was happy with Denon AVR 4306. They heat up a lot - probably should get some coolers... BTW, I intend to have a pure stereo room and these babies fit perfect. Will use my old iMac 2009 and XDA-2.... just need the speakers! Start looking for good bookshelf speakers. XMC-1 will be a perfect match later this year. Very soon will leave you a feedback. Keep rocking!!!
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stiehl11
Emo VIPs 
Give me available light!
Posts: 7,269
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Post by stiehl11 on Jul 2, 2013 17:49:05 GMT -5
can i safely plug 2 XPA-1L amplifiers into the same electric outlet or should i use one outlet with each amps , with surge protector ... or surge protector is not even needed ... thanks Never use a surge protector with Emotiva amps; they don't need one (protection built in) and you'll only throttle your available power. Unless you have each outlet with its own separate run to the breaker/fuse panel, it makes no difference whether you hook both into one or not. Rule of thumb is; if you pop a breaker, then run one to a different outlet (not on the same branch). |
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Post by mam on Jul 2, 2013 18:14:10 GMT -5
thats nice , still undecided between the xpa-1L or the xpa-1 ... i guess that bigger one would require its own outlet or my breaker could go wrong as it is so much more powerful .... being on the safe side ... thanks for all ur answers , such great help this lounge...
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Post by odedia on Jul 4, 2013 15:34:07 GMT -5
can i safely plug 2 XPA-1L amplifiers into the same electric outlet or should i use one outlet with each amps , with surge protector ... or surge protector is not even needed ... thanks Never use a surge protector with Emotiva amps; they don't need one (protection built in) and you'll only throttle your available power. Unless you have each outlet with its own separate run to the breaker/fuse panel, it makes no difference whether you hook both into one or not. Rule of thumb is; if you pop a breaker, then run one to a different outlet (not on the same branch). I know the manual says it's not *needed*, but isn't it still safer to have another "line of defence"? I'm simply using an in-outlet surge protector, rated at 16 amps which is translated to 3680 watts in a 220v country like mine. I doubt there's ever going to be a need for that much power, right? (I have an XPA-3 rated at 850va). Is it just "not needed" or "it's really bad for you and might damage your amp, don't put it there!"? |
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Post by monkumonku on Jul 4, 2013 15:48:17 GMT -5
Never use a surge protector with Emotiva amps; they don't need one (protection built in) and you'll only throttle your available power. Unless you have each outlet with its own separate run to the breaker/fuse panel, it makes no difference whether you hook both into one or not. Rule of thumb is; if you pop a breaker, then run one to a different outlet (not on the same branch). I know the manual says it's not *needed*, but isn't it still safer to have another "line of defence"? I'm simply using an in-outlet surge protector, rated at 16 amps which is translated to 3680 watts in a 220v country like mine. I doubt there's ever going to be a need for that much power, right? (I have an XPA-3 rated at 850va). Is it just "not needed" or "it's really bad for you and might damage your amp, don't put it there!"? The main reason not to use a surge protector or any intermediate between the amp and the wall outlet is because some of the devices limit the current. So if your amp needs a lot of current to be able to recreate the dynamic range of the recordings, having a surge protector that limits the current draw will hamper that. If you have something that passes the full 15 amps (or 20 as applicable) to your devices and also doesn't try to play funny by altering the sound (like some of these phony baloney power conditioners that tell you the result will be better than the original recording and even make Jimi Hendrix a better guitar player than he was when he was alive), then there's no harm in using it. Emo does say they aren't necessary, because they have protection built in. |
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Post by odedia on Jul 4, 2013 16:47:53 GMT -5
Thanks for the info.
I decided not to use a power conditioner at all, and just use a surge protector that's mainly made to protect against spikes. I admit that these things confuse me more than anything else. The product lists the following:
SPD Class 3, IP2X, 16A
UOC 10kv, UP 1.2kV
I recall the packaging also stated 3680W.
Some websites also list the following data (translated...):
Over-current resistance: 500v
Current protection level: 800v
Components can handle max current of 3X4500A
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Post by tme110 on Jul 15, 2013 20:41:17 GMT -5
I thought the xpa-1l was effectively the new version 2 design but if you look online now the new version 2 amps are available with their new looks and they are different than the -1l. Will there be another -1l version available when the current stock runs out?
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Post by mam on Jul 15, 2013 23:35:19 GMT -5
dan from emotiva responded to me on that one , he said that all the xpa amps will get a gen 2 revision in the next few months to come , but not the xpa-1L ... as the xpa-1L is newer technology , desigh ect of the amp , this one will only get a light cosmetic update ... thats it ...
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Post by wizardofoz on Aug 20, 2013 8:41:53 GMT -5
I opened the case and checked for such wires. In fact I found an A and B wire that suggested they were the culprits. But alas, disconnecting them did nothing. In fact when I looked at the board the LED is mounted to it appeared the B wire was not actually connected at all. Odd that. In the XPA-1L there appear to be two multi-color LEDs that are embedded in a translucent piece of plastic. These LEDs have three prongs coming out of them, whereas some of the older gear had separate, clearly labeled two pronged blue and amber LEDs. I attempted to follow the various traces on the board from the LEDs and it appeared that some ran back to a chip on the board. This leads me to believe that there is logic in the chip that controls the color of the LEDs and the A and B wires I found that appear similar to the older models are merely remnants of their older designs. I found a curious issue with this board. It appears that you can't tighten down all four of the screws that hold it to the front of the case without interfering with the function of the power button. You have to leave a little slack in at least the bottom two screws. Initially I was trying some heavy stock paper between the button and LEDs, and I thought that was causing the problem, but after opening the second XPA-1L I found that board was just a hair loose already. I have applied two layers of the standard Light Dims (www.lightdims.com) on mine, and that has brought the level down considerably. I found the Light Dims at Fry's for $2 a pack and have used them on some other electronics in my house that have tended to act as night lights, and they do help. They are bicolor LEDs that are molded into a laser etched diffuser. The LEDs are controlled by the primary processor that monitors and runs the amplifier. Any modification to this could cause a catastrofic failure in the system. That processor is what controls the auto rail detection, power supplies, does all the protection monitoring, etc. I would like to advise you on what to do, but due to liability reasons I can't. We as a company do not recommend or condone modifying any of the design or circuitry. Having said that though. Instead of modifying the circuit, why not just put a very thin piece of plastic film over the diffuser. I would think then that this should be the design prompt to finally put an option on all emo gear to run in blackout mode for all devices...when you sit in a cinema you dont expect to see all the gear lit up...exit signs aside due to safety regulations. Even at night as I sloth off to sleep my mini-x glows away blue while I try to nod off to the sweet soothing sounds of something. |
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