Lonnie
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Post by Lonnie on Mar 11, 2013 8:33:13 GMT -5
If you are having a popping issue during state changes it is most likely a small DC offset on one of the outputs from the down stream device. Past experience has proven this to usually be the sub. Just as a quick test, unplug the sub from the processor and see if the problem continues. If it goes away, then we need to figure out why there is DC and get rid of it. It is continues, then disconnect each one of the outputs one by one until the issues goes away. Then we will know what is causing it and can work on a real solution rather than throwing darts at the wall.
Lonnie
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Post by jukebox on Mar 11, 2013 10:54:29 GMT -5
Sorry Lonnie, not trying to bash.........just trying to make sense of it all, I would like to think that compatibilty with other coponents should be part of the design in a unit......I've read alot of people having issues with the UMC-200 with the same coponents and wiring they used in a previous processor setup where they had no issues.....and the standard answer to there problems seem to be "it must be something else in your audio chain" , this seems illogical to me, regardless where the issue may stem from, coponents should be designed to be able to work around these issues, and not the other way around, which seems to be ongoing theme here!
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Lonnie
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Post by Lonnie on Mar 11, 2013 11:25:17 GMT -5
Sorry Lonnie, not trying to bash.........just trying to make sense of it all, I would like to think that compatibilty with other coponents should be part of the design in a unit......I've read alot of people having issues with the UMC-200 with the same coponents and wiring they used in a previous processor setup where they had no issues.....and the standard answer to there problems seem to be "it must be something else in your audio chain" , this seems illogical to me, regardless where the issue may stem from, coponents should be designed to be able to work around these issues, and not the other way around, which seems to be ongoing theme here! I hear what you are saying and i don't disagree. So how do we make it 100% compatible with everything that has ever been made? Let me know and I will have it added to every design from here on and pay you a royalty. ;D Lonnie |
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Post by jukebox on Mar 11, 2013 11:39:06 GMT -5
Lonnie your absolutly right!......I am in no position to have any answers to your questions, I simply do not have the knowledge........sometimes it's very easy to be very cridical, without really understanding the complexity on designing a product like this..............my apologies!
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Lonnie
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Post by Lonnie on Mar 11, 2013 12:29:51 GMT -5
Lonnie your absolutly right!......I am in no position to have any answers to your questions, I simply do not have the knowledge........sometimes it's very easy to be very cridical, without really understanding the complexity on designing a product like this..............my apologies! No apology needed. I was being sincere, if there is a way to make the gear universally compatible I would be happy to pay for it. But as it is now, I just don't see anyway to do it. Every company does things a little different and it is those differences that cause the little annoying issues that pop up. Apple is probably the best so far at controlling compatibility issues but even they fall short when it leaves the box and gets connected to something else. I know there are some pretty sharp dudes on here and if anyone has a secret they want to sell or share, let me know.  |
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Post by Gary Cook on Mar 11, 2013 19:03:31 GMT -5
I hear what you are saying and i don't disagree. So how do we make it 100% compatible with everything that has ever been made? Let me know and I will have it added to every design from here on and pay you a royalty. ;D Lonnie How about adjustable delay? For the majority of us that don't have problem out of the box, we can leave it at the factory default. For the minority that do have a problem they can increase the delay until it dissapears. That may introduce the issue of missing the first few millseconds after a source change, but they have the choice. No pops or miss a millisecond or two. Also when they buy new gear without the need for additional delay they can revert to the factory default. I'm a genius, please send me the royalty cheque ;D Cheers Gary |
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Post by meldhache on Mar 11, 2013 20:15:25 GMT -5
Funny , I have never had any pooping, thumps changing sources. Mind you I don't have streaming devices connected thus no streaming interruption etc. But another member doc1963 mentioned that the UMC-200 hdmi4 connections follows exactly the version 4 standards as compared to older pre-2010 products which followed more or less the older hdmi3 protocols. They suggested upgrading various drivers for the streaming devices to the Hdmi4 stds which seemed to correct this situation .
Also i might add that I am using the cmx-3 power bar thus eliminating any dc offset on the line as per Lonnie's suggestion.
Just my 2 cents.
Mel
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Lonnie
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Post by Lonnie on Mar 11, 2013 20:33:50 GMT -5
I hear what you are saying and i don't disagree. So how do we make it 100% compatible with everything that has ever been made? Let me know and I will have it added to every design from here on and pay you a royalty. ;D Lonnie How about adjustable delay? For the majority of us that don't have problem out of the box, we can leave it at the factory default. For the minority that do have a problem they can increase the delay until it dissapears. That may introduce the issue of missing the first few millseconds after a source change, but they have the choice. No pops or miss a millisecond or two. Also when they buy new gear without the need for additional delay they can revert to the factory default. I'm a genius, please send me the royalty cheque ;D Cheers Gary Its a good thought but the ticks would still happen. They happen when there is a state change. So you could delay the mute for 10 minutes and it would still tick when the mute released. Good thinking though. Lonnie |
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Post by fschris on Mar 11, 2013 20:37:01 GMT -5
Funny , I have never had any pooping, thumps changing sources. Mel i hope my umc 200 does not have any pooping either. |
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Post by Gary Cook on Mar 11, 2013 20:49:22 GMT -5
How about adjustable delay? For the majority of us that don't have problem out of the box, we can leave it at the factory default. For the minority that do have a problem they can increase the delay until it dissapears. That may introduce the issue of missing the first few millseconds after a source change, but they have the choice. No pops or miss a millisecond or two. Also when they buy new gear without the need for additional delay they can revert to the factory default. I'm a genius, please send me the royalty cheque Its a good thought but the ticks would still happen. They happen when there is a state change. So you could delay the mute for 10 minutes and it would still tick when the mute released. Good thinking though. Lonnie So it would get rid of the popping but not the clicks? Half the royalty cheque perhaps ;D Cheers Gary |
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Brainsick
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Post by Brainsick on Mar 11, 2013 23:32:16 GMT -5
My ticks still happen even if i dont have anymovie on, but my speakers are really sensitive, and my rears are right to my side, 6 feet away.
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pips
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Post by pips on Mar 15, 2013 20:07:38 GMT -5
This is unfortunate because people are relying on their processors and receivers to do the muting properly so the thumps are not there. Now I am a bit scared that the UMC-200 and UPA-500 that I have on order may not be up to the standards of my past receivers. I cannot live with any pops, thumps, helicopter noises regardless what fingers will be pointed. I just got my UMC-200 and UPA-500 today, and have spent the entire day giving them a total workout. I felt that a follow up was probably necessary over my concerns. I have a Tivo HD and it works great. No pops or other weird noises so far. I can see the audio switch as I channel up and down, etc as it should. The UMC-200 handles it fine with no odd noises, reacquires the new channels sound mode and plays fine. I also have an older "fat" PS3. The 80GB Metal Gear Solid version to be exact. No issues playing Blu-Rays and games. They all sound fine. No drop outs, pops, clicks. I set the deep color off ahead of time as directed. Thumbs up. |
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Brainsick
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Post by Brainsick on Mar 16, 2013 1:20:46 GMT -5
Congrats, im glad it worked out for you, i just sold mine for a Onkyo 818, but the UMC-200, did sound great.
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Post by davidas6350 on Mar 16, 2013 3:47:41 GMT -5
Funny , I have never had any pooping, thumps changing sources. Mel i hope my umc 200 does not have any pooping either. My UMC-200 only experienced the popping noise on certain movies (e.g., Transformers-Dark side of the Moon) when I pushed Next Chapter to fast forward and only when receiving Bitstream from the player. I don't have this problem if the player is sending LPCM. |
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Post by darude on Mar 30, 2013 2:23:55 GMT -5
I solved my popping noise issue by replacing the lfe-cable. Now, I do not have any issue regarding pops or similar. Before, I had pops when switching between inputs and especially when using the PS3.
I believe interference causes the popping sound. I hope this info helps others aswell.
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Post by aud on Mar 30, 2013 14:52:31 GMT -5
Congrats, im glad it worked out for you, i just sold mine for a Onkyo 818, but the UMC-200, did sound great. Do you have the 818 yet? I'm interested to see if you have any clicks or popping problems with it. |
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Brainsick
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Post by Brainsick on Mar 31, 2013 0:37:24 GMT -5
Yes i did get it, i still get a little pop when i turn on the unit, its due to my speakers sensitivity, some times i still do, but its not as much as the UMC-200.
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Post by knucklehead on Mar 31, 2013 1:35:38 GMT -5
Yes i did get it, i still get a little pop when i turn on the unit, its due to my speakers sensitivity, some times i still do, but its not as much as the UMC-200. Thats an interesting observation since you and I swapped units - I haven't had any pops with the UMC-200 and had no problems with the NR818 either. |
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Post by mjrtoo on Mar 31, 2013 10:16:52 GMT -5
Not sure if it's the same popping noises you're talking about, I think so, but I also get them when I change crossover or distance settings when material is playing. If you hold down the directional arrow you can really hear it.
Also a quirk I've had is that if you do that, or you switch back and forth between inputs a couple times, the audio can start sounding like 'angry birds' my wife says. Like listening to a CD during fast forward.
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Post by aud on Mar 31, 2013 11:25:13 GMT -5
Yes i did get it, i still get a little pop when i turn on the unit, its due to my speakers sensitivity, some times i still do, but its not as much as the UMC-200. Thats an interesting observation since you and I swapped units - I haven't had any pops with the UMC-200 and had no problems with the NR818 either. The responses above are very close to what I was expecting. Lonnie as usual is dead on. I went through the same process of trying to fix the noises with my, at the time, brand new Anthem AVM 20 Pre/Pro. It came with software version 2.08. Within two years we were up to version 2.21. The updates were various bug fixes, newer formats and the noise issues. Towards the end they wrote in the software a mute delay selection process, similar to what Gary mentioned earlier, allowing you to select Minimum, Medium or Maximum. It helped a little bit but did not eliminate all the noise issues. It wasn't until I wired in four dedicated 30 amp circuits that at least my subwoofers stop thumping. Some days I wish I would have never caught the Audiophile bug. Fortunately, I never caught the Videophile bug. |
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