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Post by audiobill on May 14, 2023 20:46:27 GMT -5
Happy with my Stihl tools, you would be too.
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Post by novisnick on May 15, 2023 15:31:14 GMT -5
Carry Concealed Weapon. Some states are 'easier' than others to qualify while some states are more difficult. All sorts of nuances here. Too deep to go into here. California, for example, requires classroom AND range qualifications by certified instructors. This is not a rubber stamp and your License is good ONLY for the weapon with which you qualified and registered when you applied FOR such permission..... Good point! If I was moving to another state I would definitely pick one where CCW was more difficult! One problem with making CCW more difficult to obtain is that it becomes a wealth tax. It can cost much to obtain a constitutional right in such situations. Having wealth should not be a requirement IMO. Law abiding citizens that go through the trouble of obtaining a CCW are rarely criminals. Just another opinion on this topic. Good day! 😁 |
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Post by leonski on May 15, 2023 17:33:17 GMT -5
you make a reasonable point.
We need to gather information on the Cost of obtaining such a license.
The question than becomes......'Should the state be allowed to recoup the costs of making certain that those obtaining such
permission (CCW) are capable, legally allowed (not in a forbidden class) and of good character?'
Here in CA....and SD county.....you have to go thru several hoops and spend $$ for a class which is range and classroom.....
Add in the cost for a legally obtained firearm and you are maybe looking at the 1000$ or so range. Unless you go TopTier on
the firearm in which case you could easily double my sheer guess.....
Total cost to the county / state is 193$ than the classroom / instruction part is at least 200$ more.....or perhaps higher......
I don't know from time.......from initial submission to taking the class and whatever else is needed before finally being approved.
Your CA approved CCW is honored in over 20 other states. Just that no other state's CCW is honored in CA.......
What ever happened to the concept of reciprocity is anybody's guess....
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Post by novisnick on May 15, 2023 20:27:48 GMT -5
In every state in the union anyone seeking to purchase a firearm is required to pass an FBI background check. All law enforcement agencies have linked their databases and computers nationwide. The FBI has access to this information and can quickly make a decision to allow or reject the purchase. The applicant fills out the form to be submitted.
I can not speak for every other state from this point forward but in Louisiana to acquire a CCW one must have further investigation which includes but is not limited to references, fingerprints and the Sheriff of the Parish in which one resides must also approve.Fingerprinting is a cost to the applicant. An added cost is to the State Police and FBI in a single application and fee. I don’t recall the amount it costs but it’s minimal considering, maybe $200 plus the cost of the class.
Class is by a certified instructor. Classroom work is 8 hour with a field trip to the range to qualify with your firearm. You can carry any firearm you legally own with your CCW license.
Louisiana is an open-carry state but I don’t recommend doing so as it would draw some attention to yourself.
27 states currently have Constitutional Carry which means that the Full powers of The United States of America Constitution is all that is required to do so.
More states may soon approve this right.
Some states are blatantly disobeyed the Supreme Court at the moment and others are skating around the law. There is currently many lawsuits around the country dealing with the Second Amendment (2A)
One more thing, In Louisiana a permit to have a CCW only lasts 5 years and then one must reapply.
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Post by Boomzilla on May 15, 2023 23:27:59 GMT -5
GREEN ROOM (again, and this time, almost literally) -
My corner Wally World had a sack of Scott’s Turf Builder 3-in-One on their close-out aisle, so I picked it up. I’ve never used weed-and-feed before, and was curious to see if it would work on my lawn, which, I think, is MOSTLY weeds. So I had an old hand spreader in the garage and used it to coat a 6-foot wide strip along my fence. Found an old sprinkler in the garage and used it to water in the granules.
Two days later, and WOW - It’s like night and day! The strip I fertilized is twice as green and twice as tall as the virgin part. I saw on YouTube that one need not water the stuff if you apply it right after a rain - Is this so?
So I guess this is an endorsement of the Scott’s product - if it will work on MY lawn, it’ll work anywhere!
Postscriptum -
I don’t plan to fertilize my front yard because I have some already-distressed shrubs there that I don’t want to lose. But that gives me an idea. Along my back fence I have some trash trees that I’ve been planning to cut down lest they damage the fence. But since I’ll have weed and feed to spare, I wonder if a heavy application around the trees would kill them, saving me the effort of cutting them?
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Post by audiobill on May 16, 2023 5:40:37 GMT -5
I went out looking for a twelve step program, but the store told me they only carried the Scott's 4-step......
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KeithL
Administrator 
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Post by KeithL on May 16, 2023 8:33:26 GMT -5
Maybe you could try running through it three times...  I went out looking for a twelve step program, but the store told me they only carried the Scott's 4-step...... |
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Post by KeithL on May 16, 2023 8:37:32 GMT -5
There are specific products designed to kill "broad leafed plants" - which includes bushes and small trees. One very common and effective one is Round-Up... (It is intended for application directly onto the leaves or cut branch ends of what you want to kill.) There are other more powerful solutions for killing specifically hard-to-kill invasive trees and bushes. GREEN ROOM (again, and this time, almost literally) - My corner Wally World had a sack of Scott’s Turf Builder 3-in-One on their close-out aisle, so I picked it up. I’ve never used weed-and-feed before, and was curious to see if it would work on my lawn, which, I think, is MOSTLY weeds. So I had an old hand spreader in the garage and used it to coat a 6-foot wide strip along my fence. Found an old sprinkler in the garage and used it to water in the granules. Two days later, and WOW - It’s like night and day! The strip I fertilized is twice as green and twice as tall as the virgin part. I saw on YouTube that one need not water the stuff if you apply it right after a rain - Is this so? So I guess this is an endorsement of the Scott’s product - if it will work on MY lawn, it’ll work anywhere! Postscriptum - I don’t plan to fertilize my front yard because I have some already-distressed shrubs there that I don’t want to lose. But that gives me an idea. Along my back fence I have some trash trees that I’ve been planning to cut down lest they damage the fence. But since I’ll have weed and feed to spare, I wonder if a heavy application around the trees would kill them, saving me the effort of cutting them? |
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Post by leonski on May 16, 2023 13:35:51 GMT -5
There are specific products designed to kill "broad leafed plants" - which includes bushes and small trees. One very common and effective one is Round-Up... (It is intended for application directly onto the leaves or cut branch ends of what you want to kill.) There are other more powerful solutions for killing specifically hard-to-kill invasive trees and bushes. GREEN ROOM (again, and this time, almost literally) - My corner Wally World had a sack of Scott’s Turf Builder 3-in-One on their close-out aisle, so I picked it up. I’ve never used weed-and-feed before, and was curious to see if it would work on my lawn, which, I think, is MOSTLY weeds. So I had an old hand spreader in the garage and used it to coat a 6-foot wide strip along my fence. Found an old sprinkler in the garage and used it to water in the granules. Two days later, and WOW - It’s like night and day! The strip I fertilized is twice as green and twice as tall as the virgin part. I saw on YouTube that one need not water the stuff if you apply it right after a rain - Is this so? So I guess this is an endorsement of the Scott’s product - if it will work on MY lawn, it’ll work anywhere! Postscriptum - I don’t plan to fertilize my front yard because I have some already-distressed shrubs there that I don’t want to lose. But that gives me an idea. Along my back fence I have some trash trees that I’ve been planning to cut down lest they damage the fence. But since I’ll have weed and feed to spare, I wonder if a heavy application around the trees would kill them, saving me the effort of cutting them? Keith....With ALL due respect you ain't no garden guy. Sure.....Roundup will kill a lot of stuff. BUT? The weed killer most often included with a 'weed and feed' product will be 2-4 D........(Two-Four DEE) and was what was used in Vietnam to Deforest thousands of acres. Technically? 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid And was invented in the '40s. VERY toxic and should be used carefully. Fertilizers which green-up very quickly might not last as long. In years past? I used 'Hydroprills' which was a 'Triple 15' product and really did the job. Another I used was 21-7-14. The 3 numbers? N-P-K Nitrogen / Phosphorus / Potassium... Look for a product advertising 'Time Release' to get a longer lasting effect. |
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on May 16, 2023 14:08:10 GMT -5
I think I prefer RoundUp - at least for "spot killing" (without killing me or the neighborhood wildlife). And it does seem to work pretty well on bushes if you apply directly to a few cut ends. Although, according to Wikipedia 2-4 D actually has "relatively low toxicity in humans"... But I still prefer to avoid applying "area-toxins"... for the benefit of pets and wildlife. And I can never work up the enthusiasm to fertilize - just for the sake of a pretty outdoor carpet. (I'm not at all a "yard person" - to each his or her own.) There are specific products designed to kill "broad leafed plants" - which includes bushes and small trees. One very common and effective one is Round-Up... (It is intended for application directly onto the leaves or cut branch ends of what you want to kill.) There are other more powerful solutions for killing specifically hard-to-kill invasive trees and bushes. Keith....With ALL due respect you ain't no garden guy. Sure.....Roundup will kill a lot of stuff. BUT? The weed killer most often included with a 'weed and feed' product will be 2-4 D........(Two-Four DEE) and was what was used in Vietnam to Deforest thousands of acres. Technically? 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid And was invented in the '40s. VERY toxic and should be used carefully. Fertilizers which green-up very quickly might not last as long. In years past? I used 'Hydroprills' which was a 'Triple 15' product and really did the job. Another I used was 21-7-14. The 3 numbers? N-P-K Nitrogen / Phosphorus / Potassium... Look for a product advertising 'Time Release' to get a longer lasting effect. |
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Post by leonski on May 16, 2023 15:00:14 GMT -5
Agreed. Take a sprayer and just zap one weed at a time.
The exception? We have this weed that smells like Licorice. I've sprayed / killed the same weed several times and
it kept coming back. I dug UP the weed and got 2 feet of Tap Root out of the hole than poured straight roundup DOWN the hole
which finally did the job.
I'm tempted to rent some GOATS for my slope.......All I need at MY age is to take a tumble down 50 feet of slope......
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Post by Boomzilla on May 16, 2023 18:04:59 GMT -5
Goats are good, but in my city, they’re outlawed as “livestock.” For the same reason, my wife can’t have chickens (thank God!).
So instead, we’ve got a useless cat. Ce’st la vie.
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Post by leonski on May 17, 2023 2:01:46 GMT -5
I was visiting the area around Balboa Park in San Diego. HWY 163 cuts thru and has lots of 'natural' buffer around that part of the zoo. I saw goats being used which I saw later on the news are 'employable' in many places and earn a good living for the owner. OTOH? Neighbor across the street showed up with a flock of 'em and released them. the sh** EVERYWWHERE and were a PIA to round up (herd?) and get back ON the trailer. www.sandiegoreader.com/news/2011/feb/09/buys-goats/ |
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Post by Boomzilla on May 17, 2023 2:50:37 GMT -5
Free range goats? A crazy (former) acquaintance of mine got angry when the emu market collapsed and turned his flock of emus loose on the countryside. The State Police had to round them (and him) up.
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Post by Boomzilla on May 17, 2023 22:56:41 GMT -5
OK - My LAST Green Room question for a while (I promise)! I've a large back yard with a wooden fence at the back of the lot and a chain-link fence (CLF) about halfway between the back of the lot and the house. The CLF is old, rusted, uneven, and has one end broken & at an angle. It also makes the back yard look a LOT smaller than it really is. So I'd like to remove the CLF. If I hire a fence company to do the removal, I'll be in for a LOT of $$$. So it occurred to me that I don't really need to remove the fenceposts - I just need to make them disappear (and remove the chain).
Rather than try to dig up the concrete bases for each of the posts, I'm thinking of digging down about a foot around each one and then cutting them off with a reciprocating saw. I can then fill the holes back flush with some dirt or sand.
Is this a feasible plan?
Thanks - Boom
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on May 18, 2023 6:51:35 GMT -5
OK - My LAST Green Room question for a while (I promise)! I've a large back yard with a wooden fence at the back of the lot and a chain-link fence (CLF) about halfway between the back of the lot and the house. The CLF is old, rusted, uneven, and has one end broken & at an angle. It also makes the back yard look a LOT smaller than it really is. So I'd like to remove the CLF. If I hire a fence company to do the removal, I'll be in for a LOT of $$$. So it occurred to me that I don't really need to remove the fenceposts - I just need to make them disappear (and remove the chain). Rather than try to dig up the concrete bases for each of the posts, I'm thinking of digging down about a foot around each one and then cutting them off with a reciprocating saw. I can then fill the holes back flush with some dirt or sand. Is this a feasible plan? Thanks - Boom Boom....that's what I would do. Saves alot of money plus a huge amount of work on your part to dig them up. |
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Post by Boomzilla on May 18, 2023 9:56:28 GMT -5
Boom....that's what I would do. Saves alot of money plus a huge amount of work on your part to dig them up. Plan on one or two blades per post to get them cut? |
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on May 18, 2023 11:01:07 GMT -5
Boom....that's what I would do. Saves alot of money plus a huge amount of work on your part to dig them up. Plan on one or two blades per post to get them cut? Just get several good quality blades and go from there. |
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Post by Boomzilla on May 18, 2023 11:57:11 GMT -5
Just get several good quality blades and go from there. "Good quality" meaning silicon carbide? |
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on May 18, 2023 12:11:34 GMT -5
Just get several good quality blades and go from there. "Good quality" meaning silicon carbide? Use 18-24 TPI bi-metal blades. For thicker metals such as steel pipe, angle irons, or tubing, use 14-18 TPI bi-metal blades. Diablo seems to be a good brand. |
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