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Post by tabbycph on May 27, 2019 13:16:36 GMT -5
I just tried to put my JVC projector in output 2 and that has helped alot, hdmi switching works great now and audio drops are 99.99% gone.
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Post by goozoo on May 27, 2019 14:44:26 GMT -5
I just tried to put my JVC projector in output 2 and that has helped alot, hdmi switching works great now and audio drops are 99.99% gone. Output 2 seems to be the primary output for this processor. We could not even get output 1 to recognize any of the displays we hooked up. It is also worth noting that the HDMI chipset being used seems very particular about the HDMI/HDCP in the chain; meaning it is very unpredictable if legacy hardware is being mixed into it. This is also the case for most other processors and we have been told that those manufacturers are writing custom algorithms to circumvent the problem (e.g Datasat, Trinnov, Lyngdorf). In my own personal theater, I’m running a Runco 750i which is HDMI 1.4. Once I toggled the input on the RMC1 between 2.0 and 1.4 a few times, it picked it up and could still maintain the audio bitstream. I’m currently only getting on the average one audio dropout per ATMOS movie for 0.5 seconds. Once again, 1.4 should NOT be able to carry the ATMOS metadata but somehow it is. The only caveat right now is that my height speakers are being replaced so I am trusting what I’m seeing on the processor display. I had posted about this earlier hoping to get some response but nothing yet. Once the height speakers are replaced I’ll be able to confirm what I am seeing on the display. If the display is showing erroneous information then that will be the point at which I return my unit. |
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Post by tabbycph on May 27, 2019 15:20:03 GMT -5
I just tried to put my JVC projector in output 2 and that has helped alot, hdmi switching works great now and audio drops are 99.99% gone. Output 2 seems to be the primary output for this processor. We could not even get output 1 to recognize any of the displays we hooked up. It is also worth noting that the HDMI chipset being used seems very particular about the HDMI/HDCP in the chain; meaning it is very unpredictable if legacy hardware is being mixed into it. This is also the case for most other processors and we have been told that those manufacturers are writing custom algorithms to circumvent the problem (e.g Datasat, Trinnov, Lyngdorf). In my own personal theater, I’m running a Runco 750i which is HDMI 1.4. Once I toggled the input on the RMC1 between 2.0 and 1.4 a few times, it picked it up and could still maintain the audio bitstream. I’m currently only getting on the average one audio dropout per ATMOS movie for 0.5 seconds. Once again, 1.4 should NOT be able to carry the ATMOS metadata but somehow it is. The only caveat right now is that my height speakers are being replaced so I am trusting what I’m seeing on the processor display. I had posted about this earlier hoping to get some response but nothing yet. Once the height speakers are replaced I’ll be able to confirm what I am seeing on the display. If the display is showing erroneous information then that will be the point at which I return my unit. Hi, I tried to set the input to 1.4 and the rmc says atmos from my htpc, but im only hook up to stereo right now. |
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Post by goozoo on May 27, 2019 15:25:04 GMT -5
Output 2 seems to be the primary output for this processor. We could not even get output 1 to recognize any of the displays we hooked up. It is also worth noting that the HDMI chipset being used seems very particular about the HDMI/HDCP in the chain; meaning it is very unpredictable if legacy hardware is being mixed into it. This is also the case for most other processors and we have been told that those manufacturers are writing custom algorithms to circumvent the problem (e.g Datasat, Trinnov, Lyngdorf). In my own personal theater, I’m running a Runco 750i which is HDMI 1.4. Once I toggled the input on the RMC1 between 2.0 and 1.4 a few times, it picked it up and could still maintain the audio bitstream. I’m currently only getting on the average one audio dropout per ATMOS movie for 0.5 seconds. Once again, 1.4 should NOT be able to carry the ATMOS metadata but somehow it is. The only caveat right now is that my height speakers are being replaced so I am trusting what I’m seeing on the processor display. I had posted about this earlier hoping to get some response but nothing yet. Once the height speakers are replaced I’ll be able to confirm what I am seeing on the display. If the display is showing erroneous information then that will be the point at which I return my unit. Hi, I tried to set the input to 1.4 and the rmc says atmos from my htpc, but im only hook up to stereo right now. Right. Verify that the processing says ATMOS and the bitstream should say TrueHD as this is what carries the metadata. I just wanted to know if the height channels are actually working for anyone else in this configuration? |
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Post by tabbycph on May 27, 2019 15:32:32 GMT -5
Hi, I tried to set the input to 1.4 and the rmc says atmos from my htpc, but im only hook up to stereo right now. Right. Verify that the processing says ATMOS and the bitstream should say TrueHD as this is what carries the metadata. I just wanted to know if the height channels are actually working for anyone else in this configuration? The dsiplay says atmos and truehd. |
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richb
Sensei
Oppo Beta Group - Audioholics Reviewer
Posts: 890
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Post by richb on May 27, 2019 15:35:54 GMT -5
I just tried to put my JVC projector in output 2 and that has helped alot, hdmi switching works great now and audio drops are 99.99% gone. Output 2 seems to be the primary output for this processor. We could not even get output 1 to recognize any of the displays we hooked up. It is also worth noting that the HDMI chipset being used seems very particular about the HDMI/HDCP in the chain; meaning it is very unpredictable if legacy hardware is being mixed into it. This is also the case for most other processors and we have been told that those manufacturers are writing custom algorithms to circumvent the problem (e.g Datasat, Trinnov, Lyngdorf). In my own personal theater, I’m running a Runco 750i which is HDMI 1.4. Once I toggled the input on the RMC1 between 2.0 and 1.4 a few times, it picked it up and could still maintain the audio bitstream. I’m currently only getting on the average one audio dropout per ATMOS movie for 0.5 seconds. Once again, 1.4 should NOT be able to carry the ATMOS metadata but somehow it is. The only caveat right now is that my height speakers are being replaced so I am trusting what I’m seeing on the processor display. I had posted about this earlier hoping to get some response but nothing yet. Once the height speakers are replaced I’ll be able to confirm what I am seeing on the display. If the display is showing erroneous information then that will be the point at which I return my unit. I tried HDMI-1 and cannot get it to sync so I switched back to HDMI-2. - Rich |
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Post by deewan on May 27, 2019 19:53:09 GMT -5
While doing some testing to determine how the Front Wide speakers work, I was reminded of something I first reported with a Dolby Atmos soundtrack... a crackle sound in the matrixed speakers. In the past it was a Dolby Atmos soundtrack and the middle overhead speakers. Today's example uses a DTS:X soundtrack.
Equipment used:
Emotiva RMC-1
JVC 790 projector
Oppo 203
Emotiva amps
Media:
Jason Bourne UHD disc with DTS:X soundtrack
I have the RMC speaker preset displayed as well as the Oppo "info" screen displayed on the screen. All channels (including the powered sub) have been disconnected with the exception of the Front Wides.
First 30 seconds I get limited wide content. At the 30-second timestamp I hear the first crackle sound. The crackle sound returns at 0:39. I am able to recreate the crackle at the same time stamps during each viewing.
Another strange item, while I was playing with turning the overhead speakers on and off I also discovered that if I have the front wide speakers set to small, I get no audio. If I set them to large, I seem to get limited low hz content (reminder the powered sub is completely disconnected). Here is a video of me switching back and forth between small and large speakers for the front wides.
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Post by goozoo on May 28, 2019 0:34:37 GMT -5
deewan. A couple of observations. First off you cannot post more than a few seconds of an actual movie on YouTube; so don’t be surprised if it gets taken down for copyright. Second, I noticed that you also have enhanced bass engaged. May I ask why when you have active subs. Third, what is the reason to set the wides to large when they are not full range speakers? The only way to know that your wides are not working is to look at an actual RTA while the movie is playing and see what is happening. The sound that I hear in the second video is reminiscent of a bad connection somewhere. I would check my cables and connections again and even try some new cables if not already. You should also check to see if the same is true with other movies once your connection and cabling issues have been ruled out. I’m sure you have probably thought of all these things but one can’t assume.
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Post by deewan on May 28, 2019 9:17:10 GMT -5
deewan. A couple of observations. First off you cannot post more than a few seconds of an actual movie on YouTube; so don’t be surprised if it gets taken down for copyright. Second, I noticed that you also have enhanced bass engaged. May I ask why when you have active subs. Third, what is the reason to set the wides to large when they are not full range speakers? The only way to know that your wides are not working is to look at an actual RTA while the movie is playing and see what is happening. The sound that I hear in the second video is reminiscent of a bad connection somewhere. I would check my cables and connections again and even try some new cables if not already. You should also check to see if the same is true with other movies once your connection and cabling issues have been ruled out. I’m sure you have probably thought of all these things but one can’t assume. These videos of settings are after I've attempted several different configurations trying to get things to work, or seeing how things work. Some of these settings are not my saved user settings but instead something I have while testing. For example, the first time I was testing if or how the front wides worked and if I could hear anything of significance I had the output set to small. I heard nothing. Later in the day for giggles I set them to large and all of a sudden heard what sounded like a bass track (obviously not actually that low). So then I began to wonder why the huge difference and began changing settings like enhanced bass to see if that made a difference. As for the bad connection, that is possible but doubtful in my mind. The crackle happens at specific and repeatable times. The crackle does not happen from the same speaker if I have it connected to a side surround output instead of front wide. Same situation when I heard the distortion while watching Passengers. The crackle sound came only from the overhead middle speakers at specific and repeatable time marks. It's been a while since I first encountered that sound on that movie. I believe it was toward the end of the movie when Chris Pratt's character is attempting to exhaust the fusion drive or whatever the engine was called in that movie. It was only during a quite passage that I heard the crackle. While it may be a bad connection, I find it odd that it only happens to speaker locations that may be mixed by a processor, at repeatable times and the crackle doesn't happen (at least with the side surrounds) if I change to a different XLR output on the RMC. I can test this if I want by connecting the front wide output on the RMC to my left front and right front speakers. If the crackle follows then I know it's not a bad connection anywhere except either inside the RMC or with the sound mixing. |
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Post by tom9933 on May 28, 2019 9:22:52 GMT -5
I just tried to put my JVC projector in output 2 and that has helped alot, hdmi switching works great now and audio drops are 99.99% gone. Output 2 seems to be the primary output for this processor. We could not even get output 1 to recognize any of the displays we hooked up. It is also worth noting that the HDMI chipset being used seems very particular about the HDMI/HDCP in the chain; meaning it is very unpredictable if legacy hardware is being mixed into it. This is also the case for most other processors and we have been told that those manufacturers are writing custom algorithms to circumvent the problem (e.g Datasat, Trinnov, Lyngdorf). In my own personal theater, I’m running a Runco 750i which is HDMI 1.4. Once I toggled the input on the RMC1 between 2.0 and 1.4 a few times, it picked it up and could still maintain the audio bitstream. I’m currently only getting on the average one audio dropout per ATMOS movie for 0.5 seconds. Once again, 1.4 should NOT be able to carry the ATMOS metadata but somehow it is. The only caveat right now is that my height speakers are being replaced so I am trusting what I’m seeing on the processor display. I had posted about this earlier hoping to get some response but nothing yet. Once the height speakers are replaced I’ll be able to confirm what I am seeing on the display. If the display is showing erroneous information then that will be the point at which I return my unit. This is incorrect TrueHD was added in 1.3 you so you don't need 2.0 to support it. BTW I've also seen ATMOS sent even with non-lossless formats... -New HD lossless audio formats: In addition to HDMI’s current ability to support high-bandwidth uncompressed digital audio and all currently-available compressed formats (such as Dolby® Digital and DTS®), HDMI 1.3 adds additional support for new lossless compressed digital audio formats Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio™. denon.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/192/~/differences-between-hdmi-versions-1.1%2C-1.2%2C-1.3a%2C-1.4-and-2.0%3FVersion 1.3 HDMI 1.3 was released on June 22, 2006, and increased the maximum TMDS clock to 340 MHz (10.2 Gbit/s).[6][38][95] Like previous versions, it uses 8b/10b encoding, giving it a maximum video bandwidth of 8.16 Gbit/s (1920 × 1080 at 120 Hz or 2560 × 1440 at 60 Hz). It added support for 10 bpc, 12 bpc, and 16 bpc color depth (30, 36, and 48 bit/px), called deep color. It also added support for the xvYCC color space, in addition to the Rec. 601 and Rec. 709 color spaces supported by previous versions, and added the ability to carry metadata defining color gamut boundaries. It also optionally allows output of Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio streams for external decoding by AV receivers.[96] It incorporates automatic audio syncing (audio video sync) capability.[38] It defined cable Categories 1 and 2, with Category 1 cable being tested up to 74.25 MHz and Category 2 being tested up to 340 MHz.[6](§4.2.6) It also added the new type C Mini connector for portable devices.[6](§4.1.1)[97] HDMI 1.3a was released on November 10, 2006, and had Cable and Sink modifications for type C, source termination recommendations, and removed undershoot and maximum rise/fall time limits. It also changed CEC capacitance limits, and CEC commands for timer control were brought back in an altered form, with audio control commands added. It also added the optional ability to stream SACD in its bitstream DST format rather than uncompressed raw DSD.[6] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI |
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Post by goozoo on May 28, 2019 9:31:19 GMT -5
Output 2 seems to be the primary output for this processor. We could not even get output 1 to recognize any of the displays we hooked up. It is also worth noting that the HDMI chipset being used seems very particular about the HDMI/HDCP in the chain; meaning it is very unpredictable if legacy hardware is being mixed into it. This is also the case for most other processors and we have been told that those manufacturers are writing custom algorithms to circumvent the problem (e.g Datasat, Trinnov, Lyngdorf). In my own personal theater, I’m running a Runco 750i which is HDMI 1.4. Once I toggled the input on the RMC1 between 2.0 and 1.4 a few times, it picked it up and could still maintain the audio bitstream. I’m currently only getting on the average one audio dropout per ATMOS movie for 0.5 seconds. Once again, 1.4 should NOT be able to carry the ATMOS metadata but somehow it is. The only caveat right now is that my height speakers are being replaced so I am trusting what I’m seeing on the processor display. I had posted about this earlier hoping to get some response but nothing yet. Once the height speakers are replaced I’ll be able to confirm what I am seeing on the display. If the display is showing erroneous information then that will be the point at which I return my unit. This is incorrect TrueHD was added in 1.3 you so you don't need 2.0 to support it -New HD lossless audio formats: In addition to HDMI’s current ability to support high-bandwidth uncompressed digital audio and all currently-available compressed formats (such as Dolby® Digital and DTS®), HDMI 1.3 adds additional support for new lossless compressed digital audio formats Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio™. denon.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/192/~/differences-between-hdmi-versions-1.1%2C-1.2%2C-1.3a%2C-1.4-and-2.0%3FYes that is correct, but the ATMOS metadata was a function of 2.0 and is carried as part of the TrueHD bitstream; at least this is what we were told. It would seem with what I am seeing on my unit, that 1.4 could carry the metadata as long as the processor is setup to decode it. This is theory at this point, but I will test it out in a few days. |
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Post by tabbycph on May 28, 2019 13:58:17 GMT -5
Yes that is correct, but the ATMOS metadata was a function of 2.0 and is carried as part of the TrueHD bitstream; at least this is what we were told. It would seem with what I am seeing on my unit, that 1.4 could carry the metadata as long as the processor is setup to decode it. This is theory at this point, but I will test it out in a few days. Atmos works in 1.4 mode, I have attached all my speakers to 7.2.4 and have to amps one for bed and one for height, when I just had the height amp turnt on, there was 100% the right sound in it, I used the dolby amaze demo. |
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Post by tom9933 on May 28, 2019 15:07:07 GMT -5
Yes that is correct, but the ATMOS metadata was a function of 2.0 and is carried as part of the TrueHD bitstream; at least this is what we were told. It would seem with what I am seeing on my unit, that 1.4 could carry the metadata as long as the processor is setup to decode it. This is theory at this point, but I will test it out in a few days. Straight from Dolby... Decoding and rendering of Dolby Atmos content is managed entirely by the AVR. To properly pass the Dolby Atmos audio to the AVR, source devices must be connected to the AVR via HDMI 1.4 or later and set to audio bitstream out. For Blu-ray players, the secondary audio mixing option must be disabled. www.dolby.com/us/en/technologies/dolby-atmos/dolby-atmos-home-theater-installation-guidelines.pdf |
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Post by goozoo on May 28, 2019 15:33:48 GMT -5
Yes that is correct, but the ATMOS metadata was a function of 2.0 and is carried as part of the TrueHD bitstream; at least this is what we were told. It would seem with what I am seeing on my unit, that 1.4 could carry the metadata as long as the processor is setup to decode it. This is theory at this point, but I will test it out in a few days. Straight from Dolby... Decoding and rendering of Dolby Atmos content is managed entirely by the AVR. To properly pass the Dolby Atmos audio to the AVR, source devices must be connected to the AVR via HDMI 1.4 or later and set to audio bitstream out. For Blu-ray players, the secondary audio mixing option must be disabled. www.dolby.com/us/en/technologies/dolby-atmos/dolby-atmos-home-theater-installation-guidelines.pdfThis is what is a bit confusing. In reviewing the standards differences, it clearly states that 1.4 can only transmit 8 channels of audio, but we know that to be different now. The DOLBY statement is probably dated later than what I was looking at with the corrected information. In all our other setups, we have always dealt with the same HDMI version throughout the chain to minimize issues, but it's good to know that a mix with legacy hardware is also workable on the audio side at least.
As an aside, we are doing a second install with DATASAT RS20i ($32K) and they too are having issues with Apple TV. A new firmware update was released by DATASAT to address this issue. We're also hearing reports of audio issues with streaming services like NETFLIX on a couple of Trinnov units. It would seem that this is the new normal; hence the processors will always be playing catch up to the rest of the industry. Should keep the Emotiva engineering team busy for the foreseeable future.
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Post by SteveH on May 28, 2019 15:38:31 GMT -5
... a crackle sound in the matrixed speakers. While using ZONE 2 this weekend I noticed a very distinct crackle in both the left and right channels. The crackle is random, it happens in both channels and the crackle does not happen at the same time in both channels. Each channel has its own random crackle. I have replaced RCA cables, used different amplifier channels and used different sources (HDMI1, HDMI2, COAX1) with no change. I do not have any crackle issues with the MAIN system, just ZONE 2. I have listened to ZONE 2 regularly since I purchased my Emotiva system in Dec 2018. ZONE 2 is for my garage and back patio. I do not recall having this crackle issue until recently and the only thing that changed for me was me upgrading the RMC-1 to 1.3, hmmmmm. |
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Post by tom9933 on May 28, 2019 16:03:57 GMT -5
This is what is a bit confusing. In reviewing the standards differences, it clearly states that 1.4 can only transmit 8 channels of audio, but we know that to be different now. The DOLBY statement is probably dated later than what I was looking at with the corrected information. In all our other setups, we have always dealt with the same HDMI version throughout the chain to minimize issues, but it's good to know that a mix with legacy hardware is also workable on the audio side at least.
As an aside, we are doing a second install with DATASAT RS20i ($32K) and they too are having issues with Apple TV. A new firmware update was released by DATASAT to address this issue. We're also hearing reports of audio issues with streaming services like NETFLIX on a couple of Trinnov units. It would seem that this is the new normal; hence the processors will always be playing catch up to the rest of the industry. Should keep the Emotiva engineering team busy for the foreseeable future.
So in the past the conversation related to Atmos was that the receiver actually mapped the audio to the speakers that were present in the system. As for the streaming issues its odd that the high end units are having issues, I never had any issues with either my older Pioneer Elite (old 1.4 unit) or Denon 8500 receivers... |
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Post by aswiss on May 28, 2019 17:37:46 GMT -5
I had that several times, after I modified something in the setup - switched Input etc - the sound played, Display says proper Sound Mode, but I had no sound from + Front + Surr.
It sounded like far away, and only from the Tops (maybe the Surr as well - was not checking). (I have a 5.0.4 Setup with Ceiling LS)
After e reboot, everything was fine again.
Most stability is after the RMC1 is booted and nothing has been modified when it comes to settings.
I will watch some complete movies with my oppo203 from NAS - because my China Android Box is stopping sometimes in the middle of the movie.
Another thing is the HDMI ARC/CEC, which is not proper working.
With CEC ON, my LG E6 is willing to work for Netflix on ARC. But most of the time, awake from standby, its doing strange things to other devices in the HDMI Channel. When its doing this, then Diplay is blinking.
When CEC is turned of, the AV is more or less stable, but then I cannot use Netflix on my TV - or put an optical cable (which I'm not willing to do, as this is standard function for me).
So yes - there are things which do not work as designed - and hopefully the next FW will remove most of these. I gave up all the testing, finding what and what not is working - waiting for next Improvement, and use it with the features that work.
deewan . A couple of observations. First off you cannot post more than a few seconds of an actual movie on YouTube; so don’t be surprised if it gets taken down for copyright. Second, I noticed that you also have enhanced bass engaged. May I ask why when you have active subs. Third, what is the reason to set the wides to large when they are not full range speakers? The only way to know that your wides are not working is to look at an actual RTA while the movie is playing and see what is happening. The sound that I hear in the second video is reminiscent of a bad connection somewhere. I would check my cables and connections again and even try some new cables if not already. You should also check to see if the same is true with other movies once your connection and cabling issues have been ruled out. I’m sure you have probably thought of all these things but one can’t assume. These videos of settings are after I've attempted several different configurations trying to get things to work, or seeing how things work. Some of these settings are not my saved user settings but instead something I have while testing. For example, the first time I was testing if or how the front wides worked and if I could hear anything of significance I had the output set to small. I heard nothing. Later in the day for giggles I set them to large and all of a sudden heard what sounded like a bass track (obviously not actually that low). So then I began to wonder why the huge difference and began changing settings like enhanced bass to see if that made a difference. As for the bad connection, that is possible but doubtful in my mind. The crackle happens at specific and repeatable times. The crackle does not happen from the same speaker if I have it connected to a side surround output instead of front wide. Same situation when I heard the distortion while watching Passengers. The crackle sound came only from the overhead middle speakers at specific and repeatable time marks. It's been a while since I first encountered that sound on that movie. I believe it was toward the end of the movie when Chris Pratt's character is attempting to exhaust the fusion drive or whatever the engine was called in that movie. It was only during a quite passage that I heard the crackle. While it may be a bad connection, I find it odd that it only happens to speaker locations that may be mixed by a processor, at repeatable times and the crackle doesn't happen (at least with the side surrounds) if I change to a different XLR output on the RMC. I can test this if I want by connecting the front wide output on the RMC to my left front and right front speakers. If the crackle follows then I know it's not a bad connection anywhere except either inside the RMC or with the sound mixing. |
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Post by deewan on May 28, 2019 20:52:58 GMT -5
Well this pretty much sums it up for me... I attempted to watch an Atmos movie tonight. Within the first few seconds I heard the overhead crackle coming from only the middle overhead speakers. This backs up what I posted about earlier and the Atmos middle overhead speakers. I decided to confirm my findings.
I did a reboot of my RMC. I unplugged all speaker connections with the exception of my middle overhead speakers. I captured this video of the opening of movie with the camera (and mic) near the middle overhead speaker.
Time stamp 0:04 there is a crackle sound from only the left middle overhead speaker. Crackle ends at 0:11
The crackle moves to the right overhead middle speaker from 0:15 to 0:18 (not really audible in the video)
At 0:18 the crackle returns tot the left channel.
I watched this 30 second of the movie 4 times and the crackle happens in the same channels, at the same time. In other words it's highly repeatable and predictable.
To ensure it isn't a bad connect, blown driver, etc, I connected the middle overhead speaker outputs to the rear overhead speakers and related the test. The same crackle at the same time intervals following the same left and right channel. This confirms the crackle follows the connection from the RMC.
And finally to confirm the rear overhead speakers do not have the same faulty connection. I connected the rear overhead speakers back to the rear overhead connections and related the test. No crackle.
Only thing I found strange about the third video was how the audio seemed to cut in and out. However, when I listened to all surround speakers connected the rear overhead speakers seemed to play in stereo with the rear base level speakers and the sound seemed very normal and full. So I'm guessing it might be the sound mix. If not, then I'm a little worried the rear overhead speakers may have a problem, but it's not a crackle so I can still isolated the crackle to the middle overhead channels which is a upmixed channel. It's my conclusion that at least on my RMC, unmixed channels (Front wides for DTS:X and middle overhead for Dolby Atmos) have a crackle.
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Post by goozoo on May 29, 2019 1:34:16 GMT -5
Well this pretty much sums it up for me... I attempted to watch an Atmos movie tonight. Within the first few seconds I heard the overhead crackle coming from only the middle overhead speakers. This backs up what I posted about earlier and the Atmos middle overhead speakers. I decided to confirm my findings. To ensure it isn't a bad connect, blown driver, etc, I connected the middle overhead speaker outputs to the rear overhead speakers and related the test. The same crackle at the same time intervals following the same left and right channel. This confirms the crackle follows the connection from the RMC. Only thing I found strange about the third video was how the audio seemed to cut in and out. However, when I listened to all surround speakers connected the rear overhead speakers seemed to play in stereo with the rear base level speakers and the sound seemed very normal and full. So I'm guessing it might be the sound mix. If not, then I'm a little worried the rear overhead speakers may have a problem, but it's not a crackle so I can still isolated the crackle to the middle overhead channels which is a upmixed channel. It's my conclusion that at least on my RMC, unmixed channels (Front wides for DTS:X and middle overhead for Dolby Atmos) have a crackle. Darren, is this from disc or streamed? Are you getting this on ALL discs with ATMOS content or on some? Finally, keep in mind that DTS:X is limited to 7.1.4. Any other configuration can lead to unpredictable behavior. |
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Post by goozoo on May 29, 2019 1:38:40 GMT -5
This is what is a bit confusing. In reviewing the standards differences, it clearly states that 1.4 can only transmit 8 channels of audio, but we know that to be different now. The DOLBY statement is probably dated later than what I was looking at with the corrected information. In all our other setups, we have always dealt with the same HDMI version throughout the chain to minimize issues, but it's good to know that a mix with legacy hardware is also workable on the audio side at least.
As an aside, we are doing a second install with DATASAT RS20i ($32K) and they too are having issues with Apple TV. A new firmware update was released by DATASAT to address this issue. We're also hearing reports of audio issues with streaming services like NETFLIX on a couple of Trinnov units. It would seem that this is the new normal; hence the processors will always be playing catch up to the rest of the industry. Should keep the Emotiva engineering team busy for the foreseeable future.
So in the past the conversation related to Atmos was that the receiver actually mapped the audio to the speakers that were present in the system. As for the streaming issues its odd that the high end units are having issues, I never had any issues with either my older Pioneer Elite (old 1.4 unit) or Denon 8500 receivers... Yes the discussion has always been that the processor will be used to map the data, but the stipulation was that the pipe (cable) had to be able to handle it hence 2.0. Apparently they must have gotten called on it and revised their initial statement to reflect that 1.4 could in fact carry more than 8 channels of audio. |
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