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Post by ttocs on Feb 12, 2020 15:53:57 GMT -5
Does the XMC-2 come with Dirac 1.0? (no atmos) I'm positive it's the ATMOS version. Just no Bass Management, that'll be later and an additional cost.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2020 16:58:42 GMT -5
Does the XMC-2 come with Dirac 1.0? (no atmos) I'm positive it's the ATMOS version. Just no Bass Management, that'll be later and an additional cost. How well has Dirac 1.0 worked for you with your two subs?
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Post by ttocs on Feb 12, 2020 17:08:24 GMT -5
I'm positive it's the ATMOS version. Just no Bass Management, that'll be later and an additional cost. How well has Dirac 1.0 worked for you with your two subs? I actually haven't used Dirac in a long time now. And when I had it active it was before I had the two subs which was not quite two years ago. I've been using SPL meter and laser measuring tape. This has mainly been because two years ago I was finishing up after removing some walls and creating a great room, and since then I've changed the layout a couple times. Now that things are stable I can't remember how to login to Dirac. Funny, huh?
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rxw
Minor Hero
Posts: 35
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Post by rxw on Feb 12, 2020 17:21:15 GMT -5
I'm positive it's the ATMOS version. Just no Bass Management, that'll be later and an additional cost. How well has Dirac 1.0 worked for you with your two subs? Dirac 1 works brilliantly with my 2 subs. From what I read Dirac 2.0 handles the subs even better (that's without the bass module). Can't wait to see what difference the bass module will make in a multi sub system.
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Post by marcl on Feb 12, 2020 17:53:21 GMT -5
There is supposedly going to be some improved bass management in Dirac 2.0 and then the upgraded bass management from Dirac at an additional cost sometime later. XMC-1 allowed two subs to be connected, but measured them separately which did not give optimal results. Better implementation was to put the two subs on a Y connector to run together and get Dirac correction on the combined output. Or even better ... use a MiniDSP to time align and gain match the two subs on a single output.
I just confirmed my XMC-1 to XMC-2 upgrade and will ship the XMC-1 back early next week. I figure I can use my OPPO 205 to handle music listening and AppleTV in stereo until I get the XMC-2, and then make some REW PEQ filters to tame room modes until Dirac ships.
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Post by ttocs on Feb 12, 2020 18:03:50 GMT -5
I just confirmed my XMC-1 to XMC-2 upgrade and will ship the XMC-1 back early next week. I figure I can use my OPPO 205 to handle music listening and AppleTV in stereo until I get the XMC-2, and then make some REW PEQ filters to tame room modes until Dirac ships. Did you originally sign up for the Trade-In last year in April when it was announced? I signed up immediately but as yet have not been contacted. Then I signed up several more times over the following months just to be sure.
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Post by motogp34 on Feb 12, 2020 19:03:02 GMT -5
From Dirac:
"Flavio Fellah updated a comment:
Hello,
the XMC-2 is intended to use the same Dirac Live 2.x calibration software of other manufacturers: live.dirac.com/download/ for updates about its integration with the XMC-2 please contact Emotiva itself from here: emotiva.com/pages/support
Thanks and best regards"
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Post by hytram on Feb 13, 2020 5:44:19 GMT -5
I wondering if you guys can help me with an issue that I am having
*please wait*
Sorry, that happens a bit, although annoying it's not the problem I am having
*please wait*
The issue is with the sound fromu Fetch TV box, using the supplied HDMI cable with is supposed to be good for 4K although I am still running just 1080 across the board
*please wait*
Annoying isn't it
*please wait*
I have the Fetch Box into HDMI 1 with 2.0 mode set to Dolby Surround and 5.1 mode set to auto. Sometimes I change channels on the Fetch box and the sound changes from 2.0 to 5.1 or the other way round I lose all sound. Sometimes scrolling through the mode brings back the sound, sometimes not
*please wait*
Sometime you need to push standby and then on,(I have on mode to default to hdmi 1 and 40db volume to make it wife friendly) and that fixes it, other times pushing standby freezing the unit with only a full reset will fix..
Kinda over it
All this money for this sh**?
Dirac is going to be bloody brilliant or it's going back, and seeing I am in Australia, the shipping and duty will mean I will be over $500 out of pocket
Any *please wait* ideas?
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Post by superhelmi on Feb 13, 2020 6:17:16 GMT -5
Hi hytram,
which FW are you running ? Which standBy mode ? I had simmilar problems with 1.7 and hdmi on standby With 1.7.6 my XMC-2 is running realy good . *Please wait* only thing is, it could be a little bit faster , but that's not the most important thing.
Best regards from the other side, Germany :-)
Markus
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Post by hytram on Feb 13, 2020 6:43:51 GMT -5
Hi Markus,
I was in Germany in September last year, got to Drive the Nurburgring and fell in love with a litle town called Baden Baden
Running 1.7
Where do you get 1.7.6 from, I can only see 1.7 in the fw section
What do you mean by which Standby mode?
Thanks
Marty
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Post by kahodges1721 on Feb 13, 2020 6:58:59 GMT -5
Hi Markus, I was in Germany in September last year, got to Drive the Nurburgring and fell in love with a litle town called Baden Baden Running 1.7 Where do you get 1.7.6 from, I can only see 1.7 in the fw section What do you mean by which Standby mode? Thanks Marty You can request it directly from emotiva or you can “please wait” (sorry couldn’t help myself) for firmware 1.8 which is due out any day now and contains a large patch of bug fixes and improvements that should smooth out several of the issues stated here and the rmc-1 forum.
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Post by ttocs on Feb 13, 2020 7:34:47 GMT -5
Settings:: Advanced:: Standby:: select Video On Standby or select Lowest Power
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Post by marcl on Feb 13, 2020 8:03:45 GMT -5
I just confirmed my XMC-1 to XMC-2 upgrade and will ship the XMC-1 back early next week. I figure I can use my OPPO 205 to handle music listening and AppleTV in stereo until I get the XMC-2, and then make some REW PEQ filters to tame room modes until Dirac ships. Did you originally sign up for the Trade-In last year in April when it was announced? I signed up immediately but as yet have not been contacted. Then I signed up several more times over the following months just to be sure. Yes I did sign up in April and I think this is at least the third time they have contacted me with the opportunity to do the trade. You should contact them.
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Post by thxultra on Feb 13, 2020 9:18:13 GMT -5
Had the loud buzzing sound issue again last night while watching Tv with Comcast. Emotiva really needs to address this issue. Really worried it is going to Damage my speakers. Really hoping this is fixed in the next firmware release.
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,002
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Post by KeithL on Feb 13, 2020 9:48:23 GMT -5
Indeed.....
I will mention something else here... since nobody else seems to have mentioned it.
If you're using "two subs on a Y-cable" you don't need a MiniDSP to time align them. That's what the "phase" control you'll find on most subs is for ("phase" is just another aspect of time).
You want to play a test tone or some music with low bass through both subs.... Then adjust the phase controls on one or both so that you have the MOST bass AT THE LISTENING POSITION.... At that point your subs are "time aligned".
Note that technically you can only time align two subs perfectly for one frequency and one listening position. However, because of the low frequencies and long wavelengths involved, it isn't all that fussy.
The "alignment" is also going to be more precise if you have two of the same brand and model of sub. Technically, the "phase" adjustment on most subs isn't exactly a pure frequency independent time shift, which is what MiniDSP should be allowing you to do.
However, you'll find that it generally works pretty well.... and works a lot better than NOT doing it.
You should obviously level match the subs first as well. And you shouldn't fiddle with this after running Dirac (or doing any sort of overall room correction) because it will alter the results.
There is supposedly going to be some improved bass management in Dirac 2.0 and then the upgraded bass management from Dirac at an additional cost sometime later. XMC-1 allowed two subs to be connected, but measured them separately which did not give optimal results. Better implementation was to put the two subs on a Y connector to run together and get Dirac correction on the combined output. Or even better ... use a MiniDSP to time align and gain match the two subs on a single output. I just confirmed my XMC-1 to XMC-2 upgrade and will ship the XMC-1 back early next week. I figure I can use my OPPO 205 to handle music listening and AppleTV in stereo until I get the XMC-2, and then make some REW PEQ filters to tame room modes until Dirac ships.
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,002
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Post by KeithL on Feb 13, 2020 9:50:46 GMT -5
Have you tried it with some other source to see if it is the Fetch TV box that's causing it? I wondering if you guys can help me with an issue that I am having *please wait* Sorry, that happens a bit, although annoying it's not the problem I am having *please wait* The issue is with the sound fromu Fetch TV box, using the supplied HDMI cable with is supposed to be good for 4K although I am still running just 1080 across the board *please wait* Annoying isn't it *please wait* I have the Fetch Box into HDMI 1 with 2.0 mode set to Dolby Surround and 5.1 mode set to auto. Sometimes I change channels on the Fetch box and the sound changes from 2.0 to 5.1 or the other way round I lose all sound. Sometimes scrolling through the mode brings back the sound, sometimes not *please wait* Sometime you need to push standby and then on,(I have on mode to default to hdmi 1 and 40db volume to make it wife friendly) and that fixes it, other times pushing standby freezing the unit with only a full reset will fix.. Kinda over it All this money for this sh**? Dirac is going to be bloody brilliant or it's going back, and seeing I am in Australia, the shipping and duty will mean I will be over $500 out of pocket Any *please wait* ideas?
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Post by davidl81 on Feb 13, 2020 10:07:18 GMT -5
Have you tried it with some other source to see if it is the Fetch TV box that's causing it? I wondering if you guys can help me with an issue that I am having *please wait* Sorry, that happens a bit, although annoying it's not the problem I am having *please wait* The issue is with the sound fromu Fetch TV box, using the supplied HDMI cable with is supposed to be good for 4K although I am still running just 1080 across the board *please wait* Annoying isn't it *please wait* I have the Fetch Box into HDMI 1 with 2.0 mode set to Dolby Surround and 5.1 mode set to auto. Sometimes I change channels on the Fetch box and the sound changes from 2.0 to 5.1 or the other way round I lose all sound. Sometimes scrolling through the mode brings back the sound, sometimes not *please wait* Sometime you need to push standby and then on,(I have on mode to default to hdmi 1 and 40db volume to make it wife friendly) and that fixes it, other times pushing standby freezing the unit with only a full reset will fix.. Kinda over it All this money for this sh**? Dirac is going to be bloody brilliant or it's going back, and seeing I am in Australia, the shipping and duty will mean I will be over $500 out of pocket Any *please wait* ideas? Keith, I have had some similar issues using an Apple TV 4K, but not quite as bad as the OP here has it.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Feb 13, 2020 11:14:52 GMT -5
After talking with the VP of M.A. (David Solomon) and purchasing my sub & speakers, he called me later to see how the system was working for me. Told him I didn't understand how to set up the sub properly- phase adj (0 to 180). He said start at 18 degrees sit in the main seat & have someone fine-tune while listening for loudest bass response, that would time-align it to the system. I didn't understand back then but did as instructed and it worked. I used pink noise & music with the Denon & UMC-200. David also stated if I bought another sub to not expect the phase to be at the exact degree as the other sub- adj the second sub as I did the first, then together. Keith is saying the same thing. Indeed..... I will mention something else here... since nobody else seems to have mentioned it. If you're using "two subs on a Y-cable" you don't need a MiniDSP to time align them. That's what the "phase" control you'll find on most subs is for ("phase" is just another aspect of time). You want to play a test tone or some music with low bass through both subs.... Then adjust the phase controls on one or both so that you have the MOST bass AT THE LISTENING POSITION.... At that point your subs are "time aligned". Note that technically you can only time align two subs perfectly for one frequency and one listening position. However, because of the low frequencies and long wavelengths involved, it isn't all that fussy.
The "alignment" is also going to be more precise if you have two of the same brand and model of sub. Technically, the "phase" adjustment on most subs isn't exactly a pure frequency independent time shift, which is what MiniDSP should be allowing you to do.
However, you'll find that it generally works pretty well.... and works a lot better than NOT doing it. You should obviously level match the subs first as well. And you shouldn't fiddle with this after running Dirac (or doing any sort of overall room correction) because it will alter the results.
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,002
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Post by KeithL on Feb 13, 2020 11:59:00 GMT -5
It's not as complicated as many people seem to think.
When you have two sources, which can be two subs, or a sub and your regular speakers.... When you play a sound at the same frequency through both.... The setting at which you have the least cancellation, and so the loudest output, is the point at which they are "time aligned". (At any other point, there will be some cancellation, so the sound level will decrease.)
1)
This will be different at every point in the room... so you want to test it at your listening position. (Because of the long wavelengths involved, if it's right in one spot, it will be quite close even several feet away.)
2)
If you only have a single "time adjustment" then you can only really do this at one specific frequency. With multiple subs, if they're the same brand and model, this should work out to being mostly right over their entire operating range. With different subs you want to pick a point around the middle of their operating range. When aligning a sub with your regular speakers you want to use a test tone right around the crossover frequency (that's where there is the maximum overlap - and potentially the most cancellation if things are wrong).
3) Don't worry about the numbers" on the phase knob. All speakers and subs have a significant amount of phase shift that occurs in their crossovers and accompanying electronics. However, this varies WILDLY between different speakers and subs, and over the operating frequency range of a given speaker or sub. The whole point is that you are NOT "setting some specific number" here. Think of the "phase knob" as an unmarked adjustment that you set by ear and leave where it sounds the best.
This is why, when you match a sub to your speakers, you match it at the point where they overlap, which is the point where cancellation and other problems will occur. (At any point where only the sub, or only the speaker, is playing, the phase relationship between them is mostly irrelevant.)
If you have two identical subs, even though they may each have a phase shift that varies with frequency, it will be the same for both at each point along the way.
(So, if you match them at one frequency they'll match at all frequencies.) With dissimilar subs, just play something with lots of low bass, and adjust one or the other for maximum output... and, with luck, it'll work out OK.
After talking with the VP of M.A. (David Solomon) and purchasing my sub & speakers, he called me later to see how the system was working for me. Told him I didn't understand how to set up the sub properly- phase adj (0 to 180). He said start at 18 degrees sit in the main seat & have someone fine-tune while listening for loudest bass response, that would time-align it to the system. I didn't understand back then but did as instructed and it worked. I used pink noise & music with the Denon & UMC-200. David also stated if I bought another sub to not expect the phase to be at the exact degree as the other sub- adj the second sub as I did the first, then together. Keith is saying the same thing. Indeed..... I will mention something else here... since nobody else seems to have mentioned it. If you're using "two subs on a Y-cable" you don't need a MiniDSP to time align them. That's what the "phase" control you'll find on most subs is for ("phase" is just another aspect of time). You want to play a test tone or some music with low bass through both subs.... Then adjust the phase controls on one or both so that you have the MOST bass AT THE LISTENING POSITION.... At that point your subs are "time aligned". Note that technically you can only time align two subs perfectly for one frequency and one listening position. However, because of the low frequencies and long wavelengths involved, it isn't all that fussy.
The "alignment" is also going to be more precise if you have two of the same brand and model of sub. Technically, the "phase" adjustment on most subs isn't exactly a pure frequency independent time shift, which is what MiniDSP should be allowing you to do.
However, you'll find that it generally works pretty well.... and works a lot better than NOT doing it. You should obviously level match the subs first as well. And you shouldn't fiddle with this after running Dirac (or doing any sort of overall room correction) because it will alter the results.
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,002
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Post by KeithL on Feb 13, 2020 12:01:13 GMT -5
The AppleTV is rather quirky in general... We've gotten that mostly sorted out with the new firmware - which will be coming our shortly. The same fixes may or may not apply to the Fetch TV box (we don't see those on this side of the big pond).
Hopefully they will help significantly.
Have you tried it with some other source to see if it is the Fetch TV box that's causing it? Keith, I have had some similar issues using an Apple TV 4K, but not quite as bad as the OP here has it.
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