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Post by 405x5 on Nov 2, 2023 8:12:00 GMT -5
This morning I saved(or at least I’m pretty sure I have) yet another victim from leaking alkaline batteries and this time it was that brick remote for the XMC 1. I barely ever touch it but this morning I was preparing my onscreen display for a new Blu-ray player and instinctively I popped the cover on it first before I even knew it was dead only to find that fluid from the batteries, wet and dripping around the holder cleaned it up and I think it will be OK.
I don’t know what it is about alkaline batteries early on I bought them because they were supposed to be better than standard non-rechargeable batteries and they were and then years later they went back to taking a turn downhill with leaking and everything else just like the cheap ones.
fortunately I have gone to my Eneloop recharging system for all the traditional D through AAA batteries and I’ve never seen the problem again with those.
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Post by 405x5 on Nov 2, 2023 15:48:21 GMT -5
ot a pair on Amazon…. Have to stick with the alkaline and just keep an eye on it for leakage since it’s an odd size
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,256
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Post by KeithL on Nov 2, 2023 19:10:50 GMT -5
I feel your pain. Back in the days when alkaline batteries first came along they were very reliable. Among other things they almost never corroded until long after they had been thoroughly depleted. (Back then a few companies even guaranteed to replace ANY device damaged by one of their alkaline batteries corroding.)
However, some time ago, something changed. I haven't actually researched this... but I suspect that some material or process used was changed "for environmental reasons". (Either the active chemicals, or something used in the seals, had to be changed... and the new replacement is not as good.)
Ever since that time modern alkaline batteries have become quite prone to corroding... Even worse, I've seen many alkaline batteries corrode in devices like clocks and remote controls, EVEN BEFORE THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. I've opened up one of my clocks and found corroded alkaline batteries inside it the DAY the display went out...
(And it was obvious that they'd been leaking for some time.) I've seen this with both of the most popular brands... so it seems to be due to some overriding design change.
For flashlights I've switched to the "Energizer Ultimate Lithiums"... They're extremely expensive, but they have an excellent shelf life, a longer run life than alkaline batteries, and I've NEVER seen one corrode. The only other drawback, besides the price, is that they are only commonly available in AA and AAA sizes. (Although most modern flashlights, and most modern remotes, do accept one of those sizes.)
NOTE that some of the other larger sizes of lithium cells, which some flashlights and other devices use, have also come down in price. (For example CR123 lithium cells are pretty cheap if you buy them in 12 packs.)
almost never corroded... (Al least not until they'd been dead for years.)
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Post by 405x5 on Nov 2, 2023 21:18:55 GMT -5
I feel your pain. Back in the days when alkaline batteries first came along they were very reliable. Among other things they almost never corroded until long after they had been thoroughly depleted. (Back then a few companies even guaranteed to replace ANY device damaged by one of their alkaline batteries corroding.)
However, some time ago, something changed. I haven't actually researched this... but I suspect that some material or process used was changed "for environmental reasons". (Either the active chemicals, or something used in the seals, had to be changed... and the new replacement is not as good.)
Ever since that time modern alkaline batteries have become quite prone to corroding... Even worse, I've seen many alkaline batteries corrode in devices like clocks and remote controls, EVEN BEFORE THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. I've opened up one of my clocks and found corroded alkaline batteries inside it the DAY the display went out...
(And it was obvious that they'd been leaking for some time.) I've seen this with both of the most popular brands... so it seems to be due to some overriding design change.
For flashlights I've switched to the "Energizer Ultimate Lithiums"... They're extremely expensive, but they have an excellent shelf life, a longer run life than alkaline batteries, and I've NEVER seen one corrode. The only other drawback, besides the price, is that they are only commonly available in AA and AAA sizes. (Although most modern flashlights, and most modern remotes, do accept one of those sizes.)
NOTE that some of the other larger sizes of lithium cells, which some flashlights and other devices use, have also come down in price. (For example CR123 lithium cells are pretty cheap if you buy them in 12 packs.)
almost never corroded... (Al least not until they'd been dead for years.) Yes, I believe you’ve got it pegged regarding a combination of materials and environmental regulations that must’ve changed the mix on those batteries. Anyway, as I had written, I’ve gotten past the issue for my purposes by going with the Panasonic Eneloop system. When fully charged, they last pretty close, and sometimes better than their alkaline counterparts and leakage is out the window in terms of being a problem. The other thing I did recently was get a lithium ion 9 V battery charger system that comes in very handy for the smoke detectors in the house. The 9 V alkalines suffer from the same leakage problem as their 1.5 V counterparts so this is a good thing.
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Post by MusicHead on Nov 3, 2023 23:10:18 GMT -5
I have spent considerable time looking into this. So far I have had good luck with these: www.energizer.com/batteries/energizer-max-alkaline-batteriesI have them in the grip of my Nikon D500 DSLR and in a small NUX Mighty Lite guitar amp. It is about a year and so far no leaks. I put them on purpose in devices I do not use often. I second Keith preferences for Lithium AA. I used them in my Psion 5mx pocket computer, back in the pre-smartphone era, due to their light weight. Expensive, but for devices requiring just a couple of them, worth the cost. Will see if those Energizer live up to expectation.
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Post by novisnick on Nov 3, 2023 23:53:59 GMT -5
One more thing that I feel should be shared. Some folks may not know but I’ve found that many devices drain a single battery dead long before tapping into the energy stored in another battery. This happens in devices with more then one battery, obvious but I wanted to be clear. The manufacturer says to always change batteries in pairs but I believe this is just to sell more of them. Purchase a tester or use your electric meter to check the charge on your batteries. In many devices I use rechargeable batteries as well.
I hope this post isn’t shocking! LOL 🤣😳😂🤣
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Post by 405x5 on Nov 4, 2023 8:13:41 GMT -5
My 9 Volt Lithium ion charger…… so, this one makes three!
I got my original big one from RadioShack that does D and C batteries and my third for the Eneloops double and AAA. No more risks to my important devices. Replacements I bought for the XMC1 remote Will be here courtesy of Amazon on Monday with a sense of irony that because it’s a photo cell size I had no choice but to stick with alkaline on that one, just keep an eye on it.
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Post by vcautokid on Nov 4, 2023 11:27:29 GMT -5
I despise Alkalines in my remotes. Leaking acid killing the contacts, have to get vinegar to kill that acid. Just plain not there. Lithiums. Cost more now, but don't leak like alkalines and last allot longer.
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Post by 405x5 on Feb 17, 2024 13:32:34 GMT -5
Recently, I came up on “alkaline batteries“ that were advertised as guaranteed not to leak.
I didn’t think much of it since when alkalines first arrived on the scene it was more or less a given that was something you would expect from the alkaline battery itself to be leak proof Never had trouble with that early on. It was later when they got cheap the trouble started.
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Post by Boomzilla on Feb 17, 2024 14:25:21 GMT -5
The day before yesterday, I had to throw out about a hundred alkaline batteries. They were new (never been installed in any device), but they were all low voltage from sitting on the shelf!
I’ll NEVER buy an alkaline battery again. The lithiums do cost more, but their shelf life is 3x to 5x better than alkalines.
Even the BEST alkaline batteries I’ve found (Costco’s Kirkland brand) are no better than other alkalines for shelf life. And I’ve never had a lithium battery leak.
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Post by vcautokid on Feb 18, 2024 11:58:01 GMT -5
Lithiums for the win. No Alkalines. They are nothing but a corrosive spill waiting to happening. Really flawed and stupid design in chemistry. 21st century and our remotes still get damaged contacts. Come on now.
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Post by Boomzilla on Feb 19, 2024 2:21:55 GMT -5
Best way to clean battery-corroded contacts:
Put vinegar on a Q-tip & scrub the corrosion. Remove remaining vinegar with a dry Q-tip. Put rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip to stop vinegar from further acidic corrosion. Dry contact with dry Q-tip.
Works every time!
In the future, set an interval (one year?) to automatically replace any remaining alkalines.
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Post by 405x5 on Feb 19, 2024 8:11:39 GMT -5
With the exception of a few “strays“ I’ve got nothing left on devices powered by alkaline. I’ve got a small handheld NIMH charger for AAA and AA. I’ve got my big old standby RadioShack NI CAD charger for compatible C and D bats. The rest are made up of devices that are powered by rechargeable batteries of custom sizes that use the USB-C connection for bringing them back up. All of these things have a full charge runtime that’s at least as good or better, and in some cases much better than their alkaline counterparts. Even my GENIE garage door opener has AAA “Eneloop” under the hood.
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Post by leonski on Mar 19, 2024 22:56:35 GMT -5
I built a 10x (in series) AA power supply for my DAC. I figured a couple hours of use but was way optimistic. Current draw was pretty high and by the time I got done using FRESH batteries? Voltage way down and the pack was getting HOT...... End of experiment.
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Post by Boomzilla on Mar 20, 2024 5:39:19 GMT -5
Additional question, please? I have one device (a battery-powered gasoline pump used for my generator) that uses D-cell batteries. I hate to buy alkaline batteries for it because by the time the batteries in the pump are done, all the other batteries in the pack I bought are low from sitting on the shelf. I’ve looked for lithium-ion batteries, but haven’t found any in D size. Does anyone make them?
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Post by 405x5 on Mar 20, 2024 7:55:34 GMT -5
Additional question, please? I have one device (a battery-powered gasoline pump used for my generator) that uses D-cell batteries. I hate to buy alkaline batteries for it because by the time the batteries in the pump are done, all the other batteries in the pack I bought are low from sitting on the shelf. I’ve looked for lithium-ion batteries, but haven’t found any in D size. Does anyone make them? ….. The battery itself has its own USB-C charging port.
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Post by leonski on Mar 20, 2024 13:11:31 GMT -5
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Post by Boomzilla on Mar 20, 2024 14:04:39 GMT -5
I've ordered some of these: Rechargeable D Batteries,Lithium D Batteries with USB-C Port,7500mWh 1.5V D Li-ion Cell Battery,Lr20 D Size Battery,D Battery for Flashlight/Floodlight, 4 Pack I can recharge them with a USB-C charger (that I already have). I can keep two in the pump & recharge the spare two when I think I'll be needing them. The pump will typically move 30 gallons of gas before the batteries need to be replaced. Why do I have to pump gas? I have a gasoline generator for hurricanes and other power outages. At the beginning of every hurricane season, I buy about 150 gallons of gas for the generator (stored away from the house in a plastic enclosure in the back yard). If we get through the hurricane season without needing the generator (except for maintenance runs), I pump the gas into the cars & burn it there. Pumping from 5-gallon cans to the generator or car is easier with the gas pump. For those who care, this is my gas pump (that I've been VERY happy with): I haven't bought gasoline since December (when hurricane season ended).
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Post by leonski on Mar 20, 2024 19:59:37 GMT -5
Rechargeable 'D'? Must be 3 or 4 or more chemistries in 'lithium' You can also get NiMh or NiCad.....both of which are about 1.25v per cell, not the 1.5 of alkaline.
A SINGLE Lithium cell of the type I'm used to.....as in an 18650 cell used in my flashlight....is 3.7 volts which may be fine for the motor in the pump..... I don't know the specific chemistry of this particular cell, but DO know that Tesla bought A BaZillion of 'em for battery packs in their autos......
And with low rates of usage? Do what I do which is keep a spare ready to go.
IF I had a genset for home use and anticipated annual use by season? I'd own DIESEL. Somewhat safer to store and use and less costly in most places. For 'emergency' use? I'd consider one of the 2kw HONDA gas gensets. 2 Can be strapped for much higher outputs.......You can just about tuck it under one arm and it is very quiet so nobody needs to know.....
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Post by Boomzilla on Mar 20, 2024 20:15:21 GMT -5
Rechargeable 'D'? Must be 3 or 4 or more chemistries in 'lithium' You can also get NiMh or NiCad.....both of which are about 1.25v per cell, not the 1.5 of alkaline. A SINGLE Lithium cell of the type I'm used to.....as in an 18650 cell used in my flashlight....is 3.7 volts which may be fine for the motor in the pump..... I don't know the specific chemistry of this particular cell, but DO know that Tesla bought A BaZillion of 'em for battery packs in their autos...... And with low rates of usage? Do what I do which is keep a spare ready to go. IF I had a genset for home use and anticipated annual use by season? I'd own DIESEL. Somewhat safer to store and use and less costly in most places. For 'emergency' use? I'd consider one of the 2kw HONDA gas gensets. 2 Can be strapped for much higher outputs.......You can just about tuck it under one arm and it is very quiet so nobody needs to know..... An alkaline battery when NEW puts out 1.5V. The fuel pump slows a LOT when the battery voltage drops AT ALL below 1.5V per cell. The "rechargeable" D cells I bought are rated at 1.5V also, but my experience with lithium AA and AAA cells is that they start at almost 1.8V and hold their charge well (both under load and on the shelf). Diesel generators are more expensive to buy and diesel fuel costs significantly more than gasoline. I'd still have to store fuel on site. The gasoline generator I bought is technically a "portable," but it has a lifting eye for cherry pickers. It puts out 1,750 continuous watts and has almost 3,000 on startup. It has 220 and 110 output and can run my whole house without any load shedding. If I were to use anything else, I'd want a water-cooled natural gas generator. But since I'm selling my house soon, there's no incentive to upgrade (wouldn't get the investment back at sale). Should I buy another house without a backup generator, I'll add the water-cooled, natural gas fueled one with maybe 20KW capacity. Boom
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