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Post by wizardofoz on May 5, 2013 4:18:04 GMT -5
if its power related its all under that cover other than for the voltage selection anyway.
on a side note I am surprised they didnt allow for input naming in the display and input attenuation too...many pre's have this option.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2013 5:49:02 GMT -5
Wizardofoz, I'm sure there are many Lounge Lizards here besides me who sincerely appreciate your helping other members out with great info and assistance, way above and beyond the call of duty.
THANKS ;D
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Post by roadrunner on May 5, 2013 21:13:37 GMT -5
Wizardofoz
At Emofest I asked Lonnie and Ray why they hadn't included Input Naming on the XSP-1's front panel display. They said that they looked at doing that, but decided against doing it because of the increase in noise and distortion. The cost to manufacture, while maintaining the current performance levels, would have been prohibitive. Maybe they will add that to the Reference Series version of the XSP-1, where costs lare not a primary factor in the design.
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koyiwa
Seeker Of Truth
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Post by koyiwa on May 20, 2013 9:49:49 GMT -5
Just an update. Replacement board this time looks fine after trying it for 5-6 times after receiving it. Now I'm having a serious humming sound out from speakers (only connected to CDP, XSP-1, XPA-200) issue that is audible even at a far distance. Humming sound for 20-30 sec , buzz afew seconds and went quite for 5-10 secs (non stop cycle). switched to my integrated amp and no more humming can be heard. Tried all methods i could think of but nothing helps (swaping cables, interconnect, power cord, etc). Back to emailing emotiva asking for their help  |
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Post by odedia on May 27, 2013 11:45:47 GMT -5
Update from my side: I opened the preamp with the help from my dad, a.k.a. the electronics guru. We identifier that the two fuses in the left on the attached picture did not transfer any current. Once replaced, the preamp was working again! ;D These two fuses are marked as 315miliamp, however we couldn't find a matching replacement, so we ended up using a 1 amp fuse instead. - Are there any risks in doing that? - I think that I am noticing lack of power. Beforehand I am pretty sure I couldn't go above 13 on the volume control, while now I feel that I can push it up to 4. Could this be as a result of the replacement fuse or something else that went wrong? The sound is pretty ok, like before, it's just that I feel the volume is lacking. Thanks. Attachments:
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Post by mshump on May 27, 2013 11:55:53 GMT -5
Replacing the fuse shouldn't cause the volume issue, but. putting in an oversized fuse can cause severe problems downstream from it. I is rated at 315 milliamp to protect the circuits downstream by blowing/opening over 315 milliamps, putting in 1 amp will allow up to 1amp to pass through before blowing/opening. If the circuit after that fuse is only rated to run in the milliamps and you allow nearly an amp this can cause the circuits to fry., and then your warranty would really be subject to being voided
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Post by odedia on May 27, 2013 12:43:28 GMT -5
Thanks for the warning, yes I was actually thinking about that too. I'll try to get a matching one in there.
By the way, my warranty isn't irrelevant anyway, since I don't know the name of the original owner Emotiva can't transfer the warranty under my name. They did however offer to sell me the part at a discount if I need it.
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Post by odedia on Jun 29, 2013 10:17:45 GMT -5
This product is killing me  ... I replaced the fuse with a proper 315mAL one, connected it to an automatic voltage regulator, and it worked great for several weeks. Now it died again. This time completely dead. I can't even turn it on. Again, opened up the product, checked for issues. There's T100mAL/250v fuse at the power supply section. I tried replacing it with another 315ma I had. Now at least I get a blinking light at the back, but it says 115v, while the power here is 220v. I also can't start the preamp, the power button does nothing. I Will buy the correct fuse tomorrow and see if it's working for some reason, but I'm doubtful... I have the XPA-3 and the XDA-2, both are working just fine. This XSP-1 is just too sensitive, I don't know what to do with it. |
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kse
Emo VIPs 
Hello me, meet the real me.
Posts: 1,947
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Post by kse on Jun 29, 2013 11:20:23 GMT -5
Sorry for what you're going thru, hope you get it sorted out soon.
Off topic..... How do you like your Triton Twos?
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Post by eclypse on Jun 29, 2013 11:23:51 GMT -5
Strange they cant just look up the serial number and see who bought it originally to get that warranty. Hope that part that Emotiva is offering to you at discount don't cost that much.. sounds like it might be your only fix though.
Good luck!
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Post by odedia on Jun 29, 2013 11:29:28 GMT -5
I know! this issue is really unclear to me... It appears that they just don't have this information, everything is based on names... I don't know how they deal with two John Smiths from the same location  . The price emotiva offered me is pretty reasonable, yes. I hope I get this resolved, I really enjoyed my final setup at last, and now this. kse, the Triton Twos are truly amazing, they still didn't open up fully yet. One thing that is very important with these speakers is the placement. You can get drastic results by just moving your head around. That's why I'm considering moving them to a different, rectangular room and see if it gets better. |
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Post by solidstate on Jun 29, 2013 11:39:16 GMT -5
I had a similar issue I fixed in Singapore (240V) for a UPA-500 with a blown input cap on the 5V switch mode that sits across the diode bridge...I replaced all 4 along with the inline fuse. it was taking a while for the parts to come so I just fixed with same speck 1KV parts. maybe the board is the same for all the standby power units ... it just supplies 5V for the incoming mains voltage detection board and mains relay. plus probably the 5V for the front panel power switch board. INSTANTLY That's what came to mind as the problem. The rectifier diodes went bad because they are under spec. I have a bag of Vishay P600M 0918C rectifier diodes to replace bridge rectifier circuits because the Chinese always use under spec parts. The diodes used were prob 250-280v and that's just to close to your mains V and doesn't give enough buffer for the inrush current. Let that be a lesson to whomever because we are talking about 2 bucks in parts here added to the BOM to prevent this from happening. I also place clip sinks on the diodes to keep them cool. Plus I never solder the unit without the legs being off of the board because these diodes can get hot and damage the PCB. |
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kse
Emo VIPs
Hello me, meet the real me.
Posts: 1,947
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Post by kse on Jun 29, 2013 11:40:53 GMT -5
Strange they cant just look up the serial number and see who bought it originally to get that warranty. I know. I have a really hard time believing they can't. |
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Post by solidstate on Jun 29, 2013 11:50:16 GMT -5
I had a similar issue I fixed in Singapore (240V) for a UPA-500 with a blown input cap on the 5V switch mode that sits across the diode bridge...I replaced all 4 along with the inline fuse. it was taking a while for the parts to come so I just fixed with same speck 1KV parts. maybe the board is the same for all the standby power units ... it just supplies 5V for the incoming mains voltage detection board and mains relay. plus probably the 5V for the front panel power switch board. Owhh they were 1kV parts to begin with? Strange they failed like that. Are you sure they weren't 280V parts? That would explain the failure. Perhaps they are just poor quality or it came from a bad batch. I've never seen the Vishay units fail but I have seen unbranded Chinese ones fail. |
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Post by wizardofoz on Jun 30, 2013 0:02:10 GMT -5
They were 1KV parts. was only one that failed...but this was in a UPA-500 - not the same issue for the XSP-1.
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Post by rob80b on Jun 30, 2013 13:54:30 GMT -5
I know! this issue is really unclear to me... It appears that they just don't have this information, everything is based on names... I don't know how they deal with two John Smiths from the same location . The price emotiva offered me is pretty reasonable, yes. I hope I get this resolved, I really enjoyed my final setup at last, and now this. Hi Odedia Probably the only way to resolve the issue is to get the new board from EMO. Some of our early production XSP-1 units had some problems when running at 230 VAC. These problems were traced to a minor flaw in the power supply board, which we are in the process of correcting. We know what the problem is, and have a fix for units already in the field. YOU DON'T NEED THE FIX UNLESS YOUR XSP-1 FAILS AT 230 VAC. We have TEMPORARILY placed a hold on shipping new XSP-1 units to 230 VAC areas until we finish incorporating the fix into all new production units. We have NOT "stopped selling the XSP-1 to overseas customers"; this is only a temporary situation, and the XSP-1 will again be available for purchase in 230 VAC areas shortly. I've was notified June 4th that XSP-1 the power supply problem was resolved and are now available for international shipping.
"Thank you for your time and patience. You previously expressed interest in the XSP-1. We have just received in the new power supply boards and they are available for international shipment." |
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Post by odedia on Jun 30, 2013 16:37:09 GMT -5
Thanks rob, I actually asked Keith about this and was told that if I had a faulty board it should have "died" very quickly, so I don't know of that is my issue. Maybe it just took longer in my case, who knows...
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Post by odedia on Jul 9, 2013 10:09:10 GMT -5
Thought I'd post an update: the replacement power board arrived. It was very easy to replace, this thing is like Lego . Connected everything up, and all is working again. I was indeed correct a few posts back, the audio was indeed very low after I simply switched the fuses. I guess the board had some other issues that just took its time to "die" on me. I was easily hitting the -5db before, with the new power supply I can barely go above -17 (same record, same song). There's a very slight hum but I think I'm just going overboard now. Bottom line - my XSP-1 sounds great again. I missed it so much! . |
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Post by wizardofoz on Jun 10, 2014 10:34:40 GMT -5
Almost a year later and another xsp-1 on my workbench, with what looks like a dead power board and c3 domed too. Its a black board PXSP-1V04.PCB V4.0 dated 48 12 perhaps.
I took mine apart to check, mine has a blue board, no domed c3 and was working fine last time I used it and ran on standby for about a year or so with no issues.
Also just heard of another xsp with no sound also here in singapore so not sure where that will end up yet.
Unfortunately was with most things you always hear the bad things and not the hundreds of people with no issues.
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Post by frank07 on Jul 21, 2014 13:27:29 GMT -5
Add me to the list of owners who have a "fried" XSP-1. Purchased in March 2013. Two weeks ago it just died. Has power, but is not putting out a signal. Headphone jack is also dead. Unfortunately, I just threw out my Emotiva shipping boxes that I had stored in the garage for the past year!
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