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Post by wilburthegoose on Jun 28, 2018 6:30:44 GMT -5
FYI - Chromecast Ultra, which had been working perfectly, is now all pink and green. I'll reboot the XMC-1 to determine if that resolves the problem. Using 5.1 or 5.1a...? I was going to hook up my Xbox One S to check compatibility, but since my system is working fine on 5.1, I don’t want to rock the boat for a device that I don’t use every day. Using 5.1. A reboot (power cycle on the XMC-1) resolved the problem, but it did return after a day. |
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Post by wilburthegoose on Jun 28, 2018 6:32:59 GMT -5
PS - don't know if it's been mentioned previously, but we've lost the ability to choose DTS or Dolby Pro Logic audio settings.
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cawgijoe
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"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 5,033
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Post by cawgijoe on Jun 28, 2018 8:00:24 GMT -5
Will be installing my board on Sunday.
What’s the sequence for doing the firmware?
5.0........then install board..,,,,,then 5.1?
Also, is there a link to download 5.1?
Sorry for the dumb questions
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Post by geebo on Jun 28, 2018 8:38:19 GMT -5
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Post by donh50 on Jun 28, 2018 8:56:35 GMT -5
I believe that is the error message when the video board is wrong. Have you tried flashing 5.1 again? The really bad news is that Emotiva does not seem to have a customer-friendly way to fix a corrupted flash image and you might have to send it in...  My company deals with this a lot and we have a "back door" serial port and utilities to allow customers to get in and fix a bad flash image, though in some cases it may take board rework to attach the UART port. If the UART header is installed (which we recommend, natch) it is usually a simple matter to attach a serial cable (usually through a USB dongle) and run the (command-line Windows or Linux) utility to erase and re-flash the image. We also look for multiple images and require customers to select the one they want to load. Our applications are more mission-critical than an audio processor, though no less frustrating if they get it wrong, and plenty of customers and internal engineers have inadvertently bricked a board... Good, albeit painful, reminder to the rest of us. I did remember to check for an older image on my stick before flashing the new FW, fortunately. |
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Post by geebo on Jun 28, 2018 9:01:36 GMT -5
I believe that is the error message when the video board is wrong. Have you tried flashing 5.1 again? The really bad news is that Emotiva does not seem to have a customer-friendly way to fix a corrupted flash image and you might have to send it in... My company deals with this a lot and we have a "back door" serial port and utilities to allow customers to get in and fix a bad flash image, though in some cases it may take board rework to attach the UART port. If the UART header is installed (which we recommend, natch) it is usually a simple matter to attach a serial cable (usually through a USB dongle) and run the (command-line Windows or Linux) utility to erase and re-flash the image. We also look for multiple images and require customers to select the one they want to load. Our applications are more mission-critical than an audio processor, though no less frustrating if they get it wrong, and plenty of customers and internal engineers have inadvertently bricked a board... Good, albeit painful, reminder to the rest of us. I did remember to check for an older image on my stick before flashing the new FW, fortunately. Thanks but I can't get past the error message so no menu is available. No menu = No flash. |
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Post by donh50 on Jun 28, 2018 9:05:07 GMT -5
Thanks but I can't get past the error message so no menu is available. No menu = No flash. Rats, that is a bummer... |
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 5,033
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Post by cawgijoe on Jun 28, 2018 9:07:54 GMT -5
Geebo.....time to call Emotiva.
Lesson learned for the rest of us.
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Post by enricoclaudio on Jun 28, 2018 9:08:04 GMT -5
I believe that is the error message when the video board is wrong. Have you tried flashing 5.1 again? The really bad news is that Emotiva does not seem to have a customer-friendly way to fix a corrupted flash image and you might have to send it in... My company deals with this a lot and we have a "back door" serial port and utilities to allow customers to get in and fix a bad flash image, though in some cases it may take board rework to attach the UART port. If the UART header is installed (which we recommend, natch) it is usually a simple matter to attach a serial cable (usually through a USB dongle) and run the (command-line Windows or Linux) utility to erase and re-flash the image. We also look for multiple images and require customers to select the one they want to load. Our applications are more mission-critical than an audio processor, though no less frustrating if they get it wrong, and plenty of customers and internal engineers have inadvertently bricked a board... Good, albeit painful, reminder to the rest of us. I did remember to check for an older image on my stick before flashing the new FW, fortunately. Thanks but I can't get past the error message so no menu is available. No menu = No flash. I would call Emotiva before doing anything else. Right now you have an XMC-1 with a V3 Board Installed and running V4.1. There is no way to get out of that loop unless you install the old board back but I'm not sure if that is going to work eventually. So sorry my friend. I always make sure my memory stick is empty before transfer any firmware to it and double check the version before reflashing. |
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Post by geebo on Jun 28, 2018 9:12:19 GMT -5
Thanks but I can't get past the error message so no menu is available. No menu = No flash. I would call Emotiva before doing anything else. Right now you have an XMC-1 with a V3 Board Installed and running V4.1. There is no way to get out of that loop unless you install the old board back but I'm not sure if that is going to work eventually. So sorry my friend. I always make sure my memory stick is empty before transfer any firmware to it and double check the version before reflashing. Oh no doubt about, it was a stupid move on my part and the worst part is that I know better. |
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 5,033
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Post by cawgijoe on Jun 28, 2018 9:14:56 GMT -5
I would call Emotiva before doing anything else. Right now you have an XMC-1 with a V3 Board Installed and running V4.1. There is no way to get out of that loop unless you install the old board back but I'm not sure if that is going to work eventually. So sorry my friend. I always make sure my memory stick is empty before transfer any firmware to it and double check the version before reflashing. Oh no doubt about, it was a stupid move on my part and the worst part is that I know better. We all make mistakes. The question now is how to recover without too much pain and time lost. Let us know. |
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Post by melm on Jun 28, 2018 9:24:17 GMT -5
I'm going to pick up the 4K UHD Blu-ray version of "Hostiles" on my way home and see what results I get using my 203 rather than the ATV. At least from the 203, I can tell what is being sent from its HDMI output and I'll know just by seeing the "Liongate" opening splash screen if there's any difference... After a long night of tinkering, I have to agree that there "is" some odd behavior between the ATV 4K and the v3 board. Dolby Vision titles play fine, as does SDR, but HDR can show some odd banding that simply is not present when watching the same titles with the ATV connected directly to the TV, or through my 7703, or on my (virtually identical) Living Room setup. Apple states that they use the HDR 10 Media Profile (HDR-10) in the ATV 4K, but I believe HDR-10 requires at least 10 bits of color information to function correctly. I believe there may be something more to this "8bit" issue than just being a panel reporting error. Even the ATV’s Home Screen can show some horrendous banding if you tinker with the video settings just one too many times. The only way to recover after this is to fully power down the XMC-1, flip the power switch, and then reboot. Since Lonnie has already mentioned that they are aware of issues with HDR on the ATV, I think I'll leave well enough alone...  On a happier note, after upgrading to the newest 5.1a firmware, the "Extended Information" from my UDP-203 (which shows what’s actually being sent from its HDMI output) and the "Info" panel of my XMC-1 are finally, for the first time, in agreement when playing an HDR-10 encoded disc... I can agree. Updated to 5.1a and the bit depth reads correctly on my AppleTV and my Oppo203 as displayed on the XMC-1 OSD.. Hooray! I had to go through many pages of this thread to find the download link. (It's on page 17). Emotiva should post these beta and release firmware files on the XMC-1 product page where they will be easier to find. |
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Post by goozoo on Jun 28, 2018 9:33:10 GMT -5
Can anyone comment on whether or not there are any problems with the nVIDIA Shield TV? Given the number of issues that keep coming up, we are holding off on recommending any upgrades for clients until the board is ready for prime time. So, so, sad.
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Lonnie
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Post by Lonnie on Jun 28, 2018 9:41:48 GMT -5
Don't stress it, we are all just human. I have not run into this yet, so lets try a couple of things. First is to completely do a power down and turn off the switch on the back. Let sit for 30 seconds and restart. The Err HDSB82 is just the system looking for the HDMI board and not seeing it. I'm hoping that the file structure of the HDSB82 hasn't been over written and a cold boot will bring it up. If it does come up, remove the 4.1 from the stick and load the 5.1 code. If it doesn't come up, try plugging the old EH82 board back in and see if it will boot with it.. It it does, then simply load the 5.0 code as if it was a fresh upgrade. If it doesn't, well, we might have to look at some alternative ways to get you back up and running. Lonnie |
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Lonnie
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admin
Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain
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Post by Lonnie on Jun 28, 2018 9:46:29 GMT -5
I believe that is the error message when the video board is wrong. Have you tried flashing 5.1 again? The really bad news is that Emotiva does not seem to have a customer-friendly way to fix a corrupted flash image and you might have to send it in... My company deals with this a lot and we have a "back door" serial port and utilities to allow customers to get in and fix a bad flash image, though in some cases it may take board rework to attach the UART port. If the UART header is installed (which we recommend, natch) it is usually a simple matter to attach a serial cable (usually through a USB dongle) and run the (command-line Windows or Linux) utility to erase and re-flash the image. We also look for multiple images and require customers to select the one they want to load. Our applications are more mission-critical than an audio processor, though no less frustrating if they get it wrong, and plenty of customers and internal engineers have inadvertently bricked a board... Good, albeit painful, reminder to the rest of us. I did remember to check for an older image on my stick before flashing the new FW, fortunately. All of the boards could be flashed, but here is the thing. How many people have a Jtag interface sitting around at their house. Lonnie |
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Post by geebo on Jun 28, 2018 9:48:15 GMT -5
Don't stress it, we are all just human. I have not run into this yet, so lets try a couple of things. First is to completely do a power down and turn off the switch on the back. Let sit for 30 seconds and restart. The Err HDSB82 is just the system looking for the HDMI board and not seeing it. I'm hoping that the file structure of the HDSB82 hasn't been over written and a cold boot will bring it up. If it does come up, remove the 4.1 from the stick and load the 5.1 code. If it doesn't come up, try plugging the old EH82 board back in and see if it will boot with it.. It it does, then simply load the 5.0 code as if it was a fresh upgrade. If it doesn't, well, we might have to look at some alternative ways to get you back up and running. Lonnie Thanks Lonnie. I already tried leaving it unplugged for several minutes with no luck. I also tried putting the old board back in and got same error. Right now it's sitting at home unplugged with the old board so I'll try again tonight when I get home. This is most humiliating. |
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Post by enricoclaudio on Jun 28, 2018 10:02:50 GMT -5
After a long night of tinkering, I have to agree that there "is" some odd behavior between the ATV 4K and the v3 board. Dolby Vision titles play fine, as does SDR, but HDR can show some odd banding that simply is not present when watching the same titles with the ATV connected directly to the TV, or through my 7703, or on my (virtually identical) Living Room setup. Apple states that they use the HDR 10 Media Profile (HDR-10) in the ATV 4K, but I believe HDR-10 requires at least 10 bits of color information to function correctly. I believe there may be something more to this "8bit" issue than just being a panel reporting error. Even the ATV’s Home Screen can show some horrendous banding if you tinker with the video settings just one too many times. The only way to recover after this is to fully power down the XMC-1, flip the power switch, and then reboot. Since Lonnie has already mentioned that they are aware of issues with HDR on the ATV, I think I'll leave well enough alone... On a happier note, after upgrading to the newest 5.1a firmware, the "Extended Information" from my UDP-203 (which shows what’s actually being sent from its HDMI output) and the "Info" panel of my XMC-1 are finally, for the first time, in agreement when playing an HDR-10 encoded disc... I can agree. Updated to 5.1a and the bit depth reads correctly on my AppleTV and my Oppo203 as displayed on the XMC-1 OSD.. Hooray! I had to go through many pages of this thread to find the download link. (It's on page 17). Emotiva should post these beta and release firmware files on the XMC-1 product page where they will be easier to find. If I recall, V5.1a only addresses HTPCs, XBOX and PS4, so not sure how this fixed your ATV 4K and Oppo 203 bit depth info. Maybe Lonnie can comment more about this. |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Jun 28, 2018 10:09:55 GMT -5
Don't stress it, we are all just human. I have not run into this yet, so lets try a couple of things. First is to completely do a power down and turn off the switch on the back. Let sit for 30 seconds and restart. The Err HDSB82 is just the system looking for the HDMI board and not seeing it. I'm hoping that the file structure of the HDSB82 hasn't been over written and a cold boot will bring it up. If it does come up, remove the 4.1 from the stick and load the 5.1 code. If it doesn't come up, try plugging the old EH82 board back in and see if it will boot with it.. It it does, then simply load the 5.0 code as if it was a fresh upgrade. If it doesn't, well, we might have to look at some alternative ways to get you back up and running. Lonnie Lonnie, is it at all possible to flash without an HDMI board installed?? Or, a new factory restore of the XMC-1 - either without a any HDMI board or using the old or new board?? |
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Post by kongjarl on Jun 28, 2018 10:22:57 GMT -5
Anyone knows why i only hsve 4k 30hz with HDR on lg tv, but 4k 60hz without HDR?
I have 5.0 as I have not received 5.1 yet.
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Post by melm on Jun 28, 2018 10:44:36 GMT -5
I can agree. Updated to 5.1a and the bit depth reads correctly on my AppleTV and my Oppo203 as displayed on the XMC-1 OSD.. Hooray! I had to go through many pages of this thread to find the download link. (It's on page 17). Emotiva should post these beta and release firmware files on the XMC-1 product page where they will be easier to find. If I recall, V5.1a only addresses HTPCs, XBOX and PS4, so not sure how this fixed your ATV 4K and Oppo 203 bit depth info. Maybe Lonnie can comment more about this. That was my understanding too, but I saw an earlier post saying it fixed those issues so tried it this morning., and it did appear to fix them. Awaiting a statement from the mother ship. |
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My company deals with this a lot and we have a "back door" serial port and utilities to allow customers to get in and fix a bad flash image, though in some cases it may take board rework to attach the UART port. If the UART header is installed (which we recommend, natch) it is usually a simple matter to attach a serial cable (usually through a USB dongle) and run the (command-line Windows or Linux) utility to erase and re-flash the image. We also look for multiple images and require customers to select the one they want to load. Our applications are more mission-critical than an audio processor, though no less frustrating if they get it wrong, and plenty of customers and internal engineers have inadvertently bricked a board...
