|
Post by rochesterboy on Apr 4, 2020 8:25:07 GMT -5
I think I figured it out. My OPPO UDP-205 is connected to EPSON HDMI -1 which supports HDCP 2.2 where as my XMC-2 is connected to EPSON HDMI-2 port which only supports HDMI 1.4.
I would love to project from my OPPO 205 to EPSON 5040 on its HDMI 1 port. But Apple TV 4K is unable to send ATMOS signal via Oppo 205 to XMC-2. Is there anyway to do that?
The other option is to connect audio and video out of Oppo 205 to XMC-2 and connect Apple TV 4K also to XMC-2 and have XMC-2 project the video on EPSON 5040. Does XMC-2 processes the video signal or does it directly sends it to the projector/TV? If direct then I should not loose any benefit of OPPO’s video processing capabilities.
|
|
|
Post by ttocs on Apr 4, 2020 8:43:48 GMT -5
I think I figured it out. My OPPO UDP-205 is connected to EPSON HDMI -1 which supports HDCP 2.2 where as my XMC-2 is connected to EPSON HDMI-2 port which only supports HDMI 1.4. I would love to project from my OPPO 205 to EPSON 5040 on its HDMI 1 port. But Apple TV 4K is unable to send ATMOS signal via Oppo 205 to XMC-2. Is there anyway to do that? The other option is to connect audio and video out of Oppo 205 to XMC-2 and connect Apple TV 4K also to XMC-2 and have XMC-2 project the video on EPSON 5040. Does XMC-2 processes the video signal or does it directly sends it to the projector/TV? If direct then I should not loose any benefit of OPPO’s video processing capabilities. I have all sources connected to inputs of the XMC-2, then the output goes to the Epson 5040. On my 5040 from the AppleTV I get HDR @ 24Hz with 12 bit 4:2:2 color. This is the best the 5040 will provide. And this is over a 50' cable!
|
|
|
Post by marcl on Apr 4, 2020 8:50:53 GMT -5
Finally got Netflix Atmos streaming to work on my new XMC-2. This was more complicated than I thought, and in case anyone else is having trouble getting Netflix Atmos streaming to work, here’s my story. So… I upgraded my UMC-200 to the XMC-2. I wanted to get full 4K 60fps and Atmos working on my 7.1 system w/LG 2018 OLED TV too. I tested it with a Blu-ray (the Joker) and all 7 channels worked fine. However I couldn’t get Netflix to go from 5.1 to Atmos (or in my case Dolby TrueHD). I had been using a firestick 4K for the Netflix streaming. After much troubleshooting and even replacing HDMI cables with the latest High Speed cables that support HDMI 2.0b it still didn’t work. Double checked all settings, rebooted, nothing worked. It turns out that although the 4K firestick supports Atmos, the Netflix app for the firestick doesn’t (Amazon prime streaming on the firestick supports Atmos, but you have to manually select it after you start the movie or show). I could be wrong, but it seems the only devices that currently support Netflix Atmos is the ATV, the firestick Cube, and the Xbox. Luckily I had an Xbox One X. Hooked that up and it still didn’t work, until I downloaded the Dolby app for it – then I was able to change the audio setting to output Dolby Atmos. But even after that it still didn’t work – until I rebooted the TV, the Xbox and the XMC-2. Now the Netflix Atmos streaming works and titles on Netflix that have Atmos are labeled as such. I also confirmed that all 7 speaker channels are working. I suspect that the issue with Netflix is that generally, you need a device to be connected via a gigabit ethernet cable and connection, so it affords a higher throughput. This is an interesting Netflix tech article about their sound engineering and adaptive audio streaming. netflixtechblog.com/engineering-a-studio-quality-experience-with-high-quality-audio-at-netflix-eaa0b6145f32Overall I’m very happy with the XMC-2 - it has it’s quirks but it sounds great and I’m sure will sound even better after Dirac is released for it. That was interesting, that article and video. Everybody in the comments calls them out for what they ACTUALLY did .... they messed with perfectly good audio to reduce bandwidth (and cost), and then they want credit for inventing some terminology and a fix to restore some of the quality that they took out. They want to pitch it as Netflix having such great experts to deliver high quality audio with their special technology. If they had left it alone in the first place there would be no problem to solve.
|
|
|
Post by megash0n on Apr 4, 2020 9:46:28 GMT -5
Finally got Netflix Atmos streaming to work on my new XMC-2. This was more complicated than I thought, and in case anyone else is having trouble getting Netflix Atmos streaming to work, here’s my story. So… I upgraded my UMC-200 to the XMC-2. I wanted to get full 4K 60fps and Atmos working on my 7.1 system w/LG 2018 OLED TV too. I tested it with a Blu-ray (the Joker) and all 7 channels worked fine. However I couldn’t get Netflix to go from 5.1 to Atmos (or in my case Dolby TrueHD). I had been using a firestick 4K for the Netflix streaming. After much troubleshooting and even replacing HDMI cables with the latest High Speed cables that support HDMI 2.0b it still didn’t work. Double checked all settings, rebooted, nothing worked. It turns out that although the 4K firestick supports Atmos, the Netflix app for the firestick doesn’t (Amazon prime streaming on the firestick supports Atmos, but you have to manually select it after you start the movie or show). I could be wrong, but it seems the only devices that currently support Netflix Atmos is the ATV, the firestick Cube, and the Xbox. Luckily I had an Xbox One X. Hooked that up and it still didn’t work, until I downloaded the Dolby app for it – then I was able to change the audio setting to output Dolby Atmos. But even after that it still didn’t work – until I rebooted the TV, the Xbox and the XMC-2. Now the Netflix Atmos streaming works and titles on Netflix that have Atmos are labeled as such. I also confirmed that all 7 speaker channels are working. I suspect that the issue with Netflix is that generally, you need a device to be connected via a gigabit ethernet cable and connection, so it affords a higher throughput. This is an interesting Netflix tech article about their sound engineering and adaptive audio streaming. netflixtechblog.com/engineering-a-studio-quality-experience-with-high-quality-audio-at-netflix-eaa0b6145f32Overall I’m very happy with the XMC-2 - it has it’s quirks but it sounds great and I’m sure will sound even better after Dirac is released for it. Something to keep in your mind for when you have this issue... That Xbox Netflix app will eventually stop working with Atmos. You will start the show and it simply won't play until you select the DD track. This is a major headache pain, but you will need to close the Netflix and uninstall the Dolby Atmos app. The ideal way to get the app back is to start Netflix and let it prompt you for download of the Atmos app. One way or another, you'll need to uninstall and reinstall the app. Im not sure what causes this, but it happens and is a "known issue". The only other unfortunate thing is the frame rate is locked at 60Hz. This isn't noticed on many shows, but some like Medici look awful with the " Soap opera " effect. I do think the Xbox is one of the best platforms for "apps" though.
|
|
|
Post by AudioHTIT on Apr 4, 2020 10:38:45 GMT -5
I think I figured it out. My OPPO UDP-205 is connected to EPSON HDMI -1 which supports HDCP 2.2 where as my XMC-2 is connected to EPSON HDMI-2 port which only supports HDMI 1.4. I would love to project from my OPPO 205 to EPSON 5040 on its HDMI 1 port. But Apple TV 4K is unable to send ATMOS signal via Oppo 205 to XMC-2. Is there anyway to do that? I haven’t tried it, but I’ve read that the Oppo’s HDMI input won’t pass the the MAT format that carries Atmos from ATV4K, so I think the answer is no. The other option is to connect audio and video out of Oppo 205 to XMC-2 and connect Apple TV 4K also to XMC-2 and have XMC-2 project the video on EPSON 5040. Does XMC-2 processes the video signal or does it directly sends it to the projector/TV? If direct then I should not loose any benefit of OPPO’s video processing capabilities. The XMC/RMC’s do not process the video and can pass all the video formats the ATV4K can produce. So the RMC can pass 4K/60/HDR or DV to my Sony 900F, in other words the processor isn’t limiting the signal, but I can’t say what your projector will do with it. So I connect both my Oppo and ATV directly to the RMC and they work well.
|
|
|
Post by sahmen on Apr 4, 2020 10:41:27 GMT -5
Is it just my imagination, or is Apple TV particularly trigger-happy with producing glitches with all the firmware versions of these new Emo-processors? I almost never hear, if ever at all, any complaints involving other streamers, such as the 4k/UHD/Atmos capable versions of the Nvidia Shield TVs, the Rokus, the Amazon fire etc. etc. I've even heard of a few Oppo 203/205 versions getting occasionally stymied with the pre pros, whenever an AppleTV is thrown into the mix. Does anyone know why it seems so hard to get the XMC/RMCs and the Apple TV 4ks to play nice together, if I am not mistaken?
|
|
|
Post by megash0n on Apr 4, 2020 10:46:05 GMT -5
Is it just my imagination, or is Apple TV particularly trigger-happy with producing glitches with all the firmware versions of these new Emo-processors? I almost never hear, if ever at all, any complaints involving other streamers, such as the 4k/UHD/Atmos capable versions of the Nvidia Shield TVs, the Rokus, the Amazon fire etc. etc. I've even heard of a few Oppo 203/205 versions getting occasionally stymied with the pre pros, whenever an AppleTV is thrown into the mix. Does anyone know why it seems so hard to get the XMC/RMCs and the Apple TV 4ks to play nice together, if I am not mistaken? I feel the same way as I continue to read other's issues with it. It seems to have something to do with the way APTV handles the audio or bitstreaming of it.
|
|
|
Post by AudioHTIT on Apr 4, 2020 10:48:34 GMT -5
Is it just my imagination, or is Apple TV particularly trigger-happy with producing glitches with all the firmware versions of these new Emo-processors? I almost never hear, if ever at all, any complaints involving other streamers, such as the 4k/UHD/Atmos capable versions of the Nvidia Shield TVs, the Rokus, the Amazon fire etc. etc. I've even heard of a few Oppo 203/205 versions getting occasionally stymied with the pre pros, whenever an AppleTV is thrown into the mix. Does anyone know why it seems so hard to get the XMC/RMCs and the Apple TV 4ks to play nice together, if I am not mistaken? I plugged it in (with the right cables) and it worked, so I’d say it’s your imagination. But, any device that pushes the limit of current standards, and supports Apps built by a myriad of developers, is going to have problems with certain combinations of equipment playing certain streams from certain services, and that isn’t your imagination. 🤔
|
|
|
Post by AudioHTIT on Apr 4, 2020 10:51:14 GMT -5
Is it just my imagination, or is Apple TV particularly trigger-happy with producing glitches with all the firmware versions of these new Emo-processors? I almost never hear, if ever at all, any complaints involving other streamers, such as the 4k/UHD/Atmos capable versions of the Nvidia Shield TVs, the Rokus, the Amazon fire etc. etc. I've even heard of a few Oppo 203/205 versions getting occasionally stymied with the pre pros, whenever an AppleTV is thrown into the mix. Does anyone know why it seems so hard to get the XMC/RMCs and the Apple TV 4ks to play nice together, if I am not mistaken? I feel the same way as I continue to read other's issues with it. It seems to have something to do with the way APTV handles the audio or bitstreaming of it. Just for clarification, to get the best audio formats with ATV4K, you can’t bitstream as it sends PCM. This is one option I do wish they would add.
|
|
|
Post by ttocs on Apr 4, 2020 11:02:22 GMT -5
^^^^^^ The only time I've had an issue with ATV4K was due to a wrong setting on my Sony tv not allowing full bandwidth. Sony sets this from the factory as limited. Change to Enhanced Format and bingo! Everything works. Meanwhile, this took 4 months of beating my head on a rock wrongly thinking it was Emotiva's fault, HDMI cables, etc.
|
|
|
Post by megash0n on Apr 4, 2020 11:04:03 GMT -5
I feel the same way as I continue to read other's issues with it. It seems to have something to do with the way APTV handles the audio or bitstreaming of it. Just for clarification, to get the best audio formats with ATV4K, you can’t bitstream as it sends PCM. This is one option I do wish they would add. Yeah.. This is what I was referring to. Such an odd requirement or lack of functionality from a company with a pedigree for delivering top notch products. I'm surprised more people don't use PCs as one of their platforms. They are sometimes more difficult to get going, and come with their own warts, but far superior when it comes to flexibility in my opinion.
|
|
|
Post by AudioHTIT on Apr 4, 2020 11:12:11 GMT -5
^^^^^^ The only time I've had an issue with ATV4K was due to a wrong setting on my Sony tv not allowing full bandwidth. Sony sets this from the factory as limited. Change to Enhanced Format and bingo! Everything works. Meanwhile, this took 4 months of beating my head on a rock wrongly thinking it was Emotiva's fault, HDMI cables, etc. I was lucky enough to have been following the AVS thread for my model before I bought it so I knew that tip (and it seems not to be limited to Sony), but to your point each piece of kit has It’s own learning curve. The problem is too that when you hear of someone else’s issue, you don’t always remember the little things you changed when you first did your setup, so you don’t think to recommend the setting.
|
|
LCSeminole
Global Moderator
Res firma mitescere nescit.
Posts: 20,498
|
Post by LCSeminole on Apr 4, 2020 11:26:40 GMT -5
I've only had one problem with the ATV4K and it was early on in my RMC-1 ownership. I had problems, if I remember correctly v1.5, where I'd get a "flashing" while streaming Dolby Vision movies. I got around this by changing the ATV4K video output to 4K HDR @60hz and thus no more "flashing". So you ask, then how do you stream those movies with Dolby Vision? Well I've not changed the 4K HDR @60hz format since I figured this "work-around" for the "flashing" and for some reason or another, keeping it this way the ATV4K knows if the streaming content has Dolby Vision or just HDR10, so in other words it's acting like a typical "AUTO" setting would, and yes the ATV4K still has an "Enable Dolby Vision?" prompt when I enter the "Video and Audio" tab in the "Settings". I've also never had a problem getting "Dolby Atmos" when it's available from the particular App I'm streaming from whether it be Prime Video/Disney+/AppleTV+/NetFlix. I will say I've since abandoned NetFlix since the beginning of February.
|
|
|
Post by sahmen on Apr 4, 2020 11:27:32 GMT -5
|
|
KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 9,961
|
Post by KeithL on Apr 4, 2020 13:44:18 GMT -5
The ability of choosing the receive the original signal without alteration, as a bitstream, seems like a serious omission to me. (It is also an option that many other products do offer.)
(I assume that Apple has their reasons for doing it that way, and their usual lack of concern for what anybody else wants.)
I feel the same way as I continue to read other's issues with it. It seems to have something to do with the way APTV handles the audio or bitstreaming of it. Just for clarification, to get the best audio formats with ATV4K, you can’t bitstream as it sends PCM. This is one option I do wish they would add.
|
|
KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 9,961
|
Post by KeithL on Apr 4, 2020 14:02:52 GMT -5
Our human hearing has an incredibly wide "long term" dynamic range. Our ears adjust rapidly to loud noises... but more slowly, over a much wider range, to very quiet levels.
(That's why, in a very quiet place, late at night, you can even hear your own heartbeat, and the sound of blood rushing through your veins.)
It is virtually impossible to make a room quiet enough to be "dead quiet" when there are no background noises to keep our ears set above their bottom limit.
I am reminded of two interesting stories....
One was about a new library, where great effort was expended to pad all the air conditioning ducts, and carefully suppress virtually all ambient noise. The effort was successful... and they ended up with one of the quietest libraries around.
Surprisingly the result was that customers found the room to be intolerably noisy... Patrons complained that they could hear every shuffled paper, and every time a pencil was ut down, and every scratch of a moving chair, and even the other people breathing...
The solution was to remove some of the padding from the ventilation ducts... thus raising the noise floor of the white noise produced by the air conditioning. Once the noise floor was raised patrons again found the room to be "quiet"...
The other story is personal... I used to live in a very quiet house, in a quiet suburb, and had my "audio room" in an even quieter basement. And this story takes place late at night - when things were at their quietest.
I was going crazy trying to figure out how to eliminate the low level mechanical hum that I noticed coming from the power transformer on one of my amplifiers. (Of course you couldn't hear it when there was any music playing... or even when music had recently been playing...)
After trying for several hours I realized that the noise was still there even when the amplifier was turned off unplugged.
I eventually discovered that the "phantom hum" was coming through the cement wall - from a power line in the wooden wall above it.
This used to be a common situation when vinyl albums were more popular.... You would notice a faint and barely audible coming from your speakers before you started an album.... Then you would notice that, when you played the album, the "lead in silence" was actually really loud.... (Then you would realize that you had the Volume turned up way too high and dive for the Volume control... ).
Unfortunately, I'd have to take everything back apart to do this. I thought about measuring it initially but decided to just work around the problem. I wish I'd taken the measurement, as it would have only taken me a couple of minutes. Alas... I've been working on getting my room quieter. With power in the house totally off ambient at the MLP is around 40dbC or a little less. With two computers in the room, HVAC and the refrigerator in the nearby kitchen running it's 50dbC. I tried isolating the main computer and NAS boxes and it made only 1-2db difference. Then added ATMOS channels and one of the amps (for Rear Top) is unbalanced ... very audible hum! So I got a little isolation transformer box and hum totally stopped. Yes, best to walk around with a phone app and see where the noise is, and the frequency band too. The HVAC/fridge are surprisingly strong at 40Hz which is right at the biggest room resonance mode. BTW .... XMC-2 is dead quiet even with my ear right on it.
|
|
|
Post by apoartar on Apr 4, 2020 14:39:59 GMT -5
Finally got Netflix Atmos streaming to work on my new XMC-2. This was more complicated than I thought, and in case anyone else is having trouble getting Netflix Atmos streaming to work, here’s my story. So… I upgraded my UMC-200 to the XMC-2. I wanted to get full 4K 60fps and Atmos working on my 7.1 system w/LG 2018 OLED TV too. I tested it with a Blu-ray (the Joker) and all 7 channels worked fine. However I couldn’t get Netflix to go from 5.1 to Atmos (or in my case Dolby TrueHD). I had been using a firestick 4K for the Netflix streaming. After much troubleshooting and even replacing HDMI cables with the latest High Speed cables that support HDMI 2.0b it still didn’t work. Double checked all settings, rebooted, nothing worked. It turns out that although the 4K firestick supports Atmos, the Netflix app for the firestick doesn’t (Amazon prime streaming on the firestick supports Atmos, but you have to manually select it after you start the movie or show). I could be wrong, but it seems the only devices that currently support Netflix Atmos is the ATV, the firestick Cube, and the Xbox. Luckily I had an Xbox One X. Hooked that up and it still didn’t work, until I downloaded the Dolby app for it – then I was able to change the audio setting to output Dolby Atmos. But even after that it still didn’t work – until I rebooted the TV, the Xbox and the XMC-2. Now the Netflix Atmos streaming works and titles on Netflix that have Atmos are labeled as such. I also confirmed that all 7 speaker channels are working. I suspect that the issue with Netflix is that generally, you need a device to be connected via a gigabit ethernet cable and connection, so it affords a higher throughput. This is an interesting Netflix tech article about their sound engineering and adaptive audio streaming. netflixtechblog.com/engineering-a-studio-quality-experience-with-high-quality-audio-at-netflix-eaa0b6145f32Overall I’m very happy with the XMC-2 - it has it’s quirks but it sounds great and I’m sure will sound even better after Dirac is released for it. Something to keep in your mind for when you have this issue... That Xbox Netflix app will eventually stop working with Atmos. You will start the show and it simply won't play until you select the DD track. This is a major headache pain, but you will need to close the Netflix and uninstall the Dolby Atmos app. The ideal way to get the app back is to start Netflix and let it prompt you for download of the Atmos app. One way or another, you'll need to uninstall and reinstall the app. Im not sure what causes this, but it happens and is a "known issue". The only other unfortunate thing is the frame rate is locked at 60Hz. This isn't noticed on many shows, but some like Medici look awful with the " Soap opera " effect. I do think the Xbox is one of the best platforms for "apps" though. Thanks for the heads up! So far I haven't run into that problem, but I've only tested a few movies from the Netflix XBox App so far. Thanks for letting me know about the 60Hz lock too. FYI.. For the Xbox I have it set to output bitstream and then also Atmos, and for the XMC-2 I have the HDMI audio input set to Direct.
|
|
|
Post by megash0n on Apr 4, 2020 15:13:22 GMT -5
Something to keep in your mind for when you have this issue... That Xbox Netflix app will eventually stop working with Atmos. You will start the show and it simply won't play until you select the DD track. This is a major headache pain, but you will need to close the Netflix and uninstall the Dolby Atmos app. The ideal way to get the app back is to start Netflix and let it prompt you for download of the Atmos app. One way or another, you'll need to uninstall and reinstall the app. Im not sure what causes this, but it happens and is a "known issue". The only other unfortunate thing is the frame rate is locked at 60Hz. This isn't noticed on many shows, but some like Medici look awful with the " Soap opera " effect. I do think the Xbox is one of the best platforms for "apps" though. Thanks for the heads up! So far I haven't run into that problem, but I've only tested a few movies from the Netflix XBox App so far. Thanks for letting me know about the 60Hz lock too. FYI.. For the Xbox I have it set to output bitstream and then also Atmos, and for the XMC-2 I have the HDMI audio input set to Direct. I bitstream all available codecs as well. I'm curious on your Direct setting? I could be wrong, but I would suspect this sounds worse than Auto or the specific Surround mode intended. Doesn't Direct bypass all the processing?
|
|
|
Post by apoartar on Apr 4, 2020 15:51:56 GMT -5
Thanks for the heads up! So far I haven't run into that problem, but I've only tested a few movies from the Netflix XBox App so far. Thanks for letting me know about the 60Hz lock too. FYI.. For the Xbox I have it set to output bitstream and then also Atmos, and for the XMC-2 I have the HDMI audio input set to Direct. I bitstream all available codecs as well. I'm curious on your Direct setting? I could be wrong, but I would suspect this sounds worse than Auto or the specific Surround mode intended. Doesn't Direct bypass all the processing? While trying to set it up and testing it, I had set the HDMI to Direct to simplify things and make it so that I could confirm that all the channels were working properly (by actually putting an ear up to each speaker on my 7.1 setup). I was also thinking it wouldn't color the original sound of the source. However, in looking more closely at the manual after you mentioned this (page 13/14) I didn't realize that Dirac and some of the other adjustments won't work with Direct (which seems to makes sense) - so, I'll test it next with the HDMI input set to Auto and see if makes a difference. Right now though, I've only done a limited setup on the XMC-2 as I haven't actually adjusted anything except setting the speaker distances. But it sounds awesome none-the-less, and I'll try the Auto setting next. I'm also awaiting two speakers from ebay, to add as front wides so that will bring up my setup to 9.1. Also, my amp is the XPA-11 gen 3, and am very happy with that too.
|
|
|
Post by megash0n on Apr 4, 2020 16:02:12 GMT -5
I bitstream all available codecs as well. I'm curious on your Direct setting? I could be wrong, but I would suspect this sounds worse than Auto or the specific Surround mode intended. Doesn't Direct bypass all the processing? While trying to set it up and testing it, I had set the HDMI to Direct to simplify things and make it so that I could confirm that all the channels were working properly (by actually putting an ear up to each speaker on my 7.1 setup). I was also thinking it wouldn't color the original sound of the source. However, in looking more closely at the manual after you mentioned this (page 13/14) I didn't realize that Dirac and some of the other adjustments won't work with Direct (which seems to makes sense) - so, I'll test it next with the HDMI input set to Auto and see if makes a difference. Right now though, I've only done a limited setup on the XMC-2 as I haven't actually adjusted anything except setting the speaker distances. But it sounds awesome none-the-less, and I'll try the Auto setting next. I'm also awaiting two speakers from ebay, to add as front wides so that will bring up my setup to 9.1. Also, my amp is the XPA-11 gen 3, and am very happy with that too. Very cool. I suspect you will like auto much better. I basically don't use Direct at all. The way I've always looked at Direct is, if you want to have an end to end analog path, or something along this concept, then you would use Direct. It provides a "pure" signal with no processing. I respect everyone's difference of opinion on the matter, but for me, I like my sound altered 😉
|
|