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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 2, 2013 12:07:59 GMT -5
You may find this site interesting, the Frequency Response Data (FRD) Consortium. www.pvconsultants.com/audio/frdgroup.htmThere are a host of DIY speaker design tools available. Everything from box modeling to crossover design to baffle diffraction and room response simulation. What do you plan to use for damping material? I've used Black Hole 5, which works great, but is spendy. There is another product called Whisper mat that works well too and is considerably cheaper. Both are sandwich construction foam products intended to damp sound wave transmission through the surfaces they're mounted to. Your cabinets appear to have some large un-braced surfaces and I think they'd benefit from some internal surface treatments. Also consider adding some additional bracing. If you do, to place the braces asymmetrically will brake the surfaces into different sizes and shapes. This spreads out the resonant modes of the cabinet and makes them less pronounced. Just a couple of thoughts. Happy designing  -Wing Follow-up: Seems there is more than one Whispermat product, with different applications. The one I'm referring to is not the flooring product. The Whispermat I've used is produced by Silent Source. Follow this link -->http://www.silentsource.com/barriers-whispermat.html These guys are a lot more solid than you think. First off, they're built with 15 ply material. The horizontal braces you see in picture 3 above are dadoed into the sides, cleated on the front (which you can't see) and screwed to the backs. What is missing is the top-bottom vertical bracing and diagonal bracing on every flat surface made from 3/4 x 2 maple or oak. I don't intend to use anything more than some poly-fill or foam as damping material. Remember that these guys are not chest smashers on their own. In my system they will be rolled off at 85Hz to my subs which do that work! Thanks for the links! |
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Post by Darksky on Feb 2, 2013 15:02:59 GMT -5
I used Flex Seal on interiors of my sub boxes to ensure that the joints were all sealed. I also used it where the bracing met the frame of the box, to minimize any possible rattles if there were any movement. I realize that you will not be pressurizing these boxes like a 15 inch sub enclosure, but this is inexpensive, quick and neat. Since you are taking the time to build these custom enclosures, why not put a little extra effort into making sure they are completely sealed. I know that "as seen on TV" seems pretty cheesey, but it worked perfectly for me. You can get it at any of the box stores fro about $10 a can.  It sprays on like thick paint and drys into a thin coat of rubber. It really adheres to the interior surface. I could not get it to peel off of a piece of MDF. I had to sand it off, I was afraid of how it turning loose or sagging, so I experimented before using it. I am really happy with it. I took one of my subs apart to remove the plate amp. The interior is exactly as it was when I closed it up last year. Good luck with your project. I am jealous of the high quality work you are doing. Thanks for all the updates. Bradley |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 2, 2013 16:02:18 GMT -5
Excellent Idea!!!! Thanks!!!!I don't know how many times I've watched that boat with a screen door commercial and never though of it! Much better than the silicon caulking I was going to use!!!
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Post by savjac on Feb 2, 2013 16:15:25 GMT -5
Love the build quality of these boxes. I have been wanting to build a pair or maybe actually three matching speakers for the cave for a long time. Have been dwelling on the Beta10cx but they seem like they may have the appearance of a troll when sitting in the dark and may not actually light up the room as much as I wish. I think what you have done here would definitely move some air and I do already have subs to fill in the bottom end. I will be looking to your thoughts on sound as this may get some dust flowing in the shop.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2013 17:31:53 GMT -5
IMO just build with PL, there is no need for any internal sealing. The stuff is crazy strong and expands to fill most any gap possible.
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 4, 2013 18:46:49 GMT -5
Cabinets are home! Boy are they heavy and they've about 40lbs of drivers etc. to go, each! My wife(@5'2") was nice enough to be my frame of reference for the pic below. These ain't no bookshelves!  |
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Post by The Mad Norseman on Feb 4, 2013 18:50:14 GMT -5
Love it!
You've got the two most important ingredients for a wonderful system! - great equipment, and a tolerant/understanding wife! (and not necessarily in that order...).
I'm lucky too, mine is GREAT, and I like my system a lot too! ;D
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 4, 2013 18:59:19 GMT -5
I met my wife in '93. While we were cooking dinner one night, Ziggy Stardust by Bowie came on the radio. She proceeded to sing the entire song. I instantly knew this was the woman of my dreams!
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Lonnie
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Post by Lonnie on Feb 4, 2013 20:04:11 GMT -5
Cabinets are home! Boy are they heavy and they've about 40lbs of drivers etc. to go, each! My wife(@5'2") was nice enough to be my frame of reference for the pic below. These ain't no bookshelves! Nice, have fun with the build. |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Feb 4, 2013 23:58:42 GMT -5
I met my wife in '93. While we were cooking dinner one night, Ziggy Stardust by Bowie came on the radio. She proceeded to sing the entire song. I instantly knew this was the woman of my dreams! A smile on a woman is a great thing. |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 5, 2013 12:13:53 GMT -5
I found this stuff last night after looking at some of the info on the Flex-Seal.  I wanted something that I didn't have to spray and could brush on. I also think that this stuff might be great to do "paint-on" gaskets for the drivers and the back. A little experimenting will tell! Chuck |
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Post by ncred02 on Feb 15, 2013 19:01:27 GMT -5
chuck please keep us posted. i love diy projects. i wish i knew as much as some of you guys about the specs cause i have a shop and can build some nice cabinets
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 16, 2013 9:56:13 GMT -5
Will do. Got kind of sidelined with all the snow last weekend. Painting the front baffles today. Coat or two of primer and then flat black.....
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Feb 16, 2013 11:17:28 GMT -5
Looking good.  |
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bootman
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Post by bootman on Feb 17, 2013 9:59:24 GMT -5
No thought of going active with the crossovers?
you can at least do the tweaking via software.
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 17, 2013 10:27:57 GMT -5
No thought of going active with the crossovers? you can at least do the tweaking via software. Yes, I have. I've been thinking a miniDSP to tweak the crossover point and slope to their best configuration. But, and this may sound silly, I ultimately want a passives on them. These speakers will far out live me and I'm thinking the next guy down the line may not be as technical and I want to be sure they are usable. I may do both! |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 17, 2013 20:12:00 GMT -5
2 coats of primer and 3 of acrylic flat black and the baffles are done. Minor issues with a little leak through under the painter's tape, but nothing a single edge razor blade and some touch-up won't fix. On to the staining next weekend. I decided to break the walnut mainstream and am using a maple stain. Because there are 15 layers of plywood the ends will be exposed. This looks pretty good on a sample test.   |
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Feb 17, 2013 20:19:22 GMT -5
(FYI, I greatly prefer a passive crossover to an active system as well.) If you need any Xover design assistance, let me know. |
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Post by The Mad Norseman on Feb 17, 2013 21:12:32 GMT -5
Looks like the wife is remaining VERY tolerant after having taken over the family kitchen for speaker painting duties like you have! Assembly progressing, and looking impressive, keep 'em coming! |
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Post by creimes on Feb 18, 2013 8:27:06 GMT -5
Wow very nice, I wish I had the time and the tooks to attempt some diy stuff, was thinking of a diy sub come summer, im really liking those big speakers dude very nice work.
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