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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 18, 2013 19:17:05 GMT -5
Looks like the wife is remaining VERY tolerant after having taken over the family kitchen for speaker painting duties like you have!  Assembly progressing, and looking impressive, keep 'em coming! The kitchen was the only place I had that was warm enough to paint. My wife managed to work around me and make a roast and dinner too! My wife's the best!!!!! |
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bootman
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Post by bootman on Feb 21, 2013 9:20:01 GMT -5
Looks like the wife is remaining VERY tolerant after having taken over the family kitchen for speaker painting duties like you have! Assembly progressing, and looking impressive, keep 'em coming! The kitchen was the only place I had that was warm enough to paint. My wife managed to work around me and make a roast and dinner too! My wife's the best!!!!! You sir are one lucky man!  |
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Post by wizardofoz on Feb 21, 2013 10:28:10 GMT -5
I have to wait for mine to go overseas...well I dont have to but its better that way...my latest efforts are almost completed with a few smaller bit to be cut and now I need some tools for dowels and hidden screws (kregtools style) but I cant seem to find places selling woodworking stuff here in Singapore. Nobody DIY's here  The saw bench setup on my balcony (8th floor) and some results of my humble attempts at clean cuts and mitre cuts too. Plus I used up a good amount of shelving that had been idle for more than 12 years.  These are just placed roughly for a general idea of the bass bins.  Final result will be more like this but keeping the light birch for now  |
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Feb 21, 2013 10:32:45 GMT -5
Good work Wizard. What kind of horn are you making?
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 21, 2013 11:14:15 GMT -5
Good work Wizard. What kind of horn are you making? Yes, what's the design you're building, looks very interesting? Tell us more. Although I had my cabinets built for me, minus all the additional work I need to do, I am convinced that CNC routing is the way to go with a complicated speaker design. The CNC charges were a minimal part of the total I paid. Material $280 ( 2 - sheets, this 15 ply was expensive) Cutting $120 Construction $400 Next year I am going to build new 18" subs to go with the current build. I will do the assembly myself! |
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Post by garym on Feb 21, 2013 11:55:23 GMT -5
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Post by garym on Feb 21, 2013 11:57:52 GMT -5
Pricey drivers (mostly if not all SEAS), but the real cost is in the amps ---- you need one for each driver, plus an active xover from Linkwitz (unless you're really ambitious and DIY that too).
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Feb 21, 2013 12:34:38 GMT -5
Ah, the last image was not included originally. A variation on a Linkwitz design I see. That is one method to create a relatively compact OB bass bin. Let us know how it turns out.
I agree with the above that his active systems are unnecessarily complex and expensive to execute, although I do like his OB approach and have used his designs but with passive Xovers. As far as what drivers to use, IMO when you DIY you should use the best components you can possibly afford (unless you're just doing something to see how cheap you can make it.) SEAS drivers are very good and are great sounding drivers to base designs around (as long as you know how to tame those metal woofer cone resonances.)
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Post by wizardofoz on Feb 22, 2013 6:40:09 GMT -5
Sorry Chuck...dint meant to hijack your thread...Ill leave the rest for you...maybe Ill start another thread here somewhere....or maybe I did....better go check.  It is exactly the LX521 ... just I am building in pre-finished wood as I had a lot laying about. They will look physically identical to the last pic which a friend of mine built and as I helped him for the last few days of assembly I have a much better idea of how to get it done... trouble is now I have to build a jig to do the doweling pins for the wood joints as I can't buy one here in Singapore...so thats slowed me up for a day while messing about trying to figure out a way...still its faster than ordering one from the USA and having to get metric too. now its evening and I cant make cutting drilling noise so I have the boards to start work on instead tonight. I have the Orions with the 12 channel amp but I am doing a DIY amp that has 8 channels at 60-70 WPC which should work nicely I hope or I might need something with come more oomph here is a link to the build on out local hifi forum tinyurl.com/a5rjn7x |
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Post by garym on Feb 22, 2013 11:15:41 GMT -5
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 24, 2013 14:47:52 GMT -5
Well, I knew things were going too smooth.
I started the cabinet staining this weekend. I am using a gel maple finish as I'm tired of the walnut look and the veneer is maple.
Issue is the that wood picks up the stain very differently on different areas of the wood - very light to very dark. Looks like crap!
Reaching into the money bag (getting rather empty!), I decided to get some pro help. I'm at the point of "in for a penny in for a pound".
To add to the depression, it's snowing like hell out for the 3rd weekend in a row!
If I was still a drinking man, I'd have the old #7 open and pouring..........
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Post by garbulky on Feb 24, 2013 16:17:41 GMT -5
If you can make that linkwitz speaker, it's going to be so very special. Drool. Those look like the last speakers you will need.
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Post by gregd on Feb 28, 2013 11:50:20 GMT -5
Well, I knew things were going too smooth. ... Issue is the that wood picks up the stain very differently on different areas of the wood - very light to very dark. Looks like crap! That happens, but things can usually be fixed. Often the veneer takes stain differently than the solid hardwood pieces. If you are still wondering what to do, I suggest you try removing some of the stain in the dark areas by wiping with mineral spirits in paper towels. If you fuss with it enough you might be able to even out the stain enough to suit your taste; rub the dark areas with mineral spirits and recoat the light areas with more stain. There are techniques and products that help minimize this problem, but I don't think they can work for you now unless you can get all of the wood much lighter than the final color you want. Actually, that might not be very difficult to achieve. You can't do any damage with mineral spirits at this point except mess up the stain. Just be sure that any rags or paper towels with mineral spirits are spread out on concrete to dry. Put them wet into a pile and you might have a fire. You might want to sign up at lumberjocks.com and ask for help in the "techniques" forum. |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 28, 2013 12:08:00 GMT -5
I got over my depression and am continuing on. I'll address the outside finish after I'm done. The push now is to get the drivers mounted and do some static impedance testing and SPL measurements of the drivers so I can pass on the info to the guy that's helping with the crossovers.
My box of fasteners just came from McMaster-Carr yesterday, so this weekend will be drilling holes and mounting stuff.
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Post by gregd on Feb 28, 2013 13:23:20 GMT -5
I got over my depression and am continuing on. I'll address the outside finish after I'm done. When I first got into woodworking I thought building was the hard part and finishing was easy. Not true. Projects typically break down into 4 phases - design, machining, assembly and finishing. Each one of them is challenging and requires a fair amount of knowledge, experience and skill. I avoid staining my projects whenever I can because I still find it a PITA. When you start thinking again about the finish I suggest you have a look at Charles Neil's website www.cn-woodworking.com/. He is a finishing fanatic and provides a lot of sound advice and many good products. My box of fasteners just came from McMaster-Carr yesterday, so this weekend will be drilling holes and mounting stuff. Be careful not to drill too deep! Punching a hole through the side or front of the cabinet will ruin your day. |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 28, 2013 14:08:01 GMT -5
Be careful not to drill too deep! Punching a hole through the side or front of the cabinet will ruin your day. What do you mean not too deep? I gave up wood screws a long time ago in favor of machine screws that have a nut or t-nut on the back side. I came up with a great method for getting the holes centered perfectly. I use a nylon spacer the exact size of the hole in the driver and drill a smaller diameter pilot. Then I go all the way through. In my case this was a 1/4 in for the horn and 6mm for the woofers.   I found that socket head machine screws work very well for woofers. I learned from my last build to not use plain steel. They rusted all to hell. SS is too expensive, but galvanized is perfect. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2013 14:15:17 GMT -5
Looking good Chuck I'm almost ready to put mine together to test. Maybe another week. |
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Post by gregd on Feb 28, 2013 14:41:10 GMT -5
What do you mean not too deep? I am not so familiar with speaker assembly. I guess this isn't an issue where you are going to be drilling. |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Feb 28, 2013 14:49:37 GMT -5
Looking good Chuck I'm almost ready to put mine together to test. Maybe another week. I'm following your build. You're my DIY hero! Sorry I seem to be moving so slow, but part of the weekends is all the time I have being up to my ears writing code. I'm trying out a lot of new concepts that I've been thinking about for a long time. One of these is pouring low viscosity silicon seals for the drivers and cabinet gaskets "in place". The Flex Seal stuff may be good for coating a pair of pliers, but it doesn't have much elasticity as I found out in a trial. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2013 5:08:45 GMT -5
Chuck,
Great project!
Chuck
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